Brake pad wear warning
I find it strange that it wore out so soon coz I bought it as a CPO with around 16k miles on it. I’ve put in approx 20k miles and I don’t drive in stop and go traffic. The paperwork on the CPO indicated the brake pads were changed (I don’t remember if it was both front and rear or just one axle in which case prob the front).
Looking at the mileage, does it seem it is a bit premature? I suppose 36k may be ok if one of the axle wasn’t changed during the CPO process. But if both front/rear were replaced, I feel 20k additional miles if a bit premature for brake pads to have worn out.
Thoughts?



I find it strange that it wore out so soon coz I bought it as a CPO with around 16k miles on it. I’ve put in approx 20k miles and I don’t drive in stop and go traffic. The paperwork on the CPO indicated the brake pads were changed (I don’t remember if it was both front and rear or just one axle in which case prob the front).
Looking at the mileage, does it seem it is a bit premature? I suppose 36k may be ok if one of the axle wasn’t changed during the CPO process. But if both front/rear were replaced, I feel 20k additional miles if a bit premature for brake pads to have worn out.
Thoughts?
Forget OE MB parts. Get online replacement pads like ATE, Textar or Pagid. Akebono I believe is OE supplier and I personally consider them POS. I drove recently GL 450 (2015) and was not impressed with brakes. I think MB went with ceramic pads (same like BMW recently) to satisfy people who complained about dust on wheels. Problem with that is drop in performance.
Since I will buy GL (or GLS) in the end of 2018 or in 2019, I was looking price of parts and brake parts online for GL are similar to BMW X5. I found Textar pads for $90 on Ebay, and rotors are around $200 for pair of front ones. Check stores like FCPEuro, ECStuning etc. they sometimes have sale. I for example bought pair of front Brembo rotors for X5 on FCPEuro on sale for $120 for BOTH! You cannot go better then Brembo.
If yous tick to OE parts, it will be expensive. One thing to take into consideration is that with ATE and Textar (unless ceramic) you will have dusting on the wheels, but you might increase sensitivity of brake pedal.
If yous till do not want dust on the wheels go with Akebono pads, Textar EPad or ATE ceramic (ATE ceramic is ridiculously expensive, at least for BMW).
If you are DIY inclinced, changing pads is super easy, especially front ones, and you will save a lot. If you are apprehensive to do brake job by yourself, find good indy that knows Euro cars. Not because of brake job (any mechanic can do that) but good Euro indy mechanic might be useful later when you need some more complex intervention.
I find it strange that it wore out so soon coz I bought it as a CPO with around 16k miles on it. I’ve put in approx 20k miles and I don’t drive in stop and go traffic. The paperwork on the CPO indicated the brake pads were changed (I don’t remember if it was both front and rear or just one axle in which case prob the front).
Looking at the mileage, does it seem it is a bit premature? I suppose 36k may be ok if one of the axle wasn’t changed during the CPO process. But if both front/rear were replaced, I feel 20k additional miles if a bit premature for brake pads to have worn out.
Thoughts?
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I'm handy as I've changed brakes pads on 3 different vehicles before this (Japanese made though - Honda, Acura, Mazda) and worked on various maintenance items. I've no intention of doing it with the GL and will do to a shop to have them do it for me. Getting old .. and not wanting to waste a weekend doing it.
Anyway, will see if the CPO paperwork does indicate which axle brakes were replaced. Maybe I could pressure the selling dealership in doing something as if they did replaced all 4 corners, no way they are worn out in 20k miles with my driving habits.
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It was listed at $870 for pads, disk and sensor including labor.
I got a quote from Indy shop but they are not using OEM parts. Was told either Bosch or Textar. I'm guessing Textar. Question I have is, should I have them replace both sides of the front so they all match even if one side is still good? What about rotors? Ok with 1 side OEM and the other aftermarket? Or just change all the fronts so they match?
Though it won't surprised me that the selling dealer actually did the left front but erroneously put in changing the sensor as well in the paperwork.
In any case, I'll just have them change both front/left side. After all, they are quoting me around $372 labor included versus $800 (pads only) + 2 hr labor (at the dealership).
The GL OE pads are made by Hella Pagid - and not made by TMD Friction Pagid aftermarket brand and not made by TMD Friction aftermarket Mintex brand....
The GL OE pads are made by Hella Pagid - and not made by TMD Friction Pagid aftermarket brand and not made by TMD Friction aftermarket Mintex brand....
It says (2) Brake Disk, (1) Sensor, (1) Disk Brake. Perhaps they did change the brake pads on left/right, sensor on the right, and only the rotors on 1 side (the side that is causing the pulsation).
Now that I'm seeing this, it makes no sense the quote I received over the phone from the dealership (part's guy). Based on this, job #3, at $870.20, it included the rotor for 1 side for $206. Subtracting this, it should have been $664 (should be less if considering less labor). Still expensive and more than the indy I brought there this morning ($372), but no where close to $800++ plus labor he told me over the phone. I think the quote must have been for front + rear brake pads which makes more sense since it would be $800+ for OEM parts.
Also I noticed they also performed a brake system flush. Is it needed or necessary in the GL? In my past cars (Honda, Mazda, Acura) whenever I perform brake pads and rotor replacement, I've never done brake flush.
Last edited by jlim; Jan 17, 2018 at 09:52 AM.
Brake fluid should be flushed regularly. It absorbs condensation and becomes corrosive, wearing components and seals in the system quicker.
Brake fluid should be flushed regularly. It absorbs condensation and becomes corrosive, wearing components and seals in the system quicker.
Feel like a dolt now. So $800+ with labor included wasn't so bad after all. It's that parts guy who called me up from the dealership who gave me wrong info. Told me the front brake job cost $800+ (just for parts) and labor is extra. And that did not including the rotors. I put in a request for a brake job quote and they had the parts guy called me rather than the service guy.Anyway, the local indy I dropped off called me this morning. Told me it was the rear brakes. So, at least this makes me feel better that the selling dealership did replaced the front and after 20k miles, they are still ok. So rear sensor came on after 36k miles.
Front Brakes + Rotors = $990 ($750 without rotors)
Rear Brakes + Rotors = $798 ($640 without rotors)
Just some reference numbers for others who may be looking in the future. The indy place I went to, I paid $360+tax+shop charges for the rear pads (no rotors).


