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Don't want to upset you. Usually in dealership they take whole body off subframe.
The only way you can try is to take both exhaust pipes off, unscrew engine mounts off subframe - two bolts underneath, lift engine from top and unscrew upper engine mount bolts off engine. Those upper bolts have quite a torque on it - i used impact wrench to unscrew.
Kind of if you can pay for someone else doing that - i would. Lots of labor.
I just picked up the '13 GL550 form the dealer today after having the engine mounts replaced @ 67K miles. It was done under CPO warranty due to vibration issue i was having. SM mentioned they had to remove the exhaust & cats and driver side axle shaft, then lift up the engine. He did'nt mention removing the subframe, but thats not to say they did'nt? He also said if it was out of warranty it would be about a $2k job (parts & labor).
if it can be done like your saying that’s the sure way to go.
cant believe yours are at the same mileage mine are.
Originally Posted by BLK GL550
I just picked up the '13 GL550 form the dealer today after having the engine mounts replaced @ 67K miles. It was done under CPO warranty due to vibration issue i was having. SM mentioned they had to remove the exhaust & cats and driver side axle shaft, then lift up the engine. He did'nt mention removing the subframe, but thats not to say they did'nt? He also said if it was out of warranty it would be about a $2k job (parts & labor).
The instruction you have has "Remove engine with front axle carrier"
Basically - take car body off front subframe
You won't be able to take exhaust manifolds nor heat shields on exhaust manifolds without taking engine off.
No space at all.
just removed the half shaft ,
2 exhaust down pipes with cats
and the heat shields
that’s it!
QUOTE=arsupisemnet;7895483]The instruction you
have has "Remove engine with front axle carrier"
Basically - take car body off front subframe
You won't be able to take exhaust manifolds nor heat shields on exhaust manifolds without taking engine off.
No space at all.[/QUOTE]
I replaced both front motor mounts on a 2017 GLS550. No need to remove the subframe. I just removed both left and right CATS. Removed heat shields covering the engine mount. Removed mounts one by one. Job wasn’t that bad. I did do this on a lift.
Last edited by Gfernando15; 07-02-2021 at 01:12 AM.
Luckily I have the extended warranty. Dealer quoted $3250. 60,000 miles. The engineer who designed them should be taken out and shot for incompetence. As bad as my Porsche Cayenne requiring a new drive shaft/bearing assembly every 60k miles.
Luckily I have the extended warranty. Dealer quoted $3250. 60,000 miles. The engineer who designed them should be taken out and shot for incompetence. As bad as my Porsche Cayenne requiring a new drive shaft/bearing assembly every 60k miles.
Ex V10 Touareg owner here. I would take the axle bearing over engine mounts any day!
Had the engine mounts done over the weekend. Problem with the axle bearing is that it is attached to the shaft so you have to buy the whole assembly, $950 back in 2011.
I just did the mounts on our 2017 GLS 550 with 52k miles. The passenger side was very, very difficult to remove. There's really not enough space to get it out, it took some use of a pry bar to move the engine to the side while it's on the jack and it took every millimeter of room to let me pry it out. The driver's side was a breeze in comparison. Came right out.
Couple notes:
The driver's side is the one that is going to go bad first because it's the one that is dealing with the engine's torque trying to lift away from the subframe. This is why we felt a "thump" every time we'd take off from a stop. I took a video of the old mount, it's completely shot, almost like it was about to completely pull apart. I'll post a video soon.
The mounts can be bolted in two ways, you can spin it 180 degrees and bolt it in either way, but they have two little tabs on top where the engine mount bracket would sit on them, and they tell you which way to orient the mount. They have to be pointing out towards the outside of the car, otherwise the engine bracket won't be allowed to sit fully on the mount, and then you can't get the large bolt through the mount and the mount bracket.
Tools I used:
3/8" e-torx bits sizes 10, 12 and 18. 10 for the downpipe to exhaust manifold and heat shield bolts. 12 for the downpipe to center exhaust clamps and lower engine mount bolts. 18 for the engine mount bolts. btw, the motor mount bolts are indeed VERY tight, it took me having to use a pipe on my 1/2" ratcheting socket wrench (along with some extensions, a reducer and a swivel) to break them loose. It calls for 85 nm when you re-torque them which is a lot when you don't have optimal room to work on them.
Ratcheting e-torx wrench with a 10 on one end and 12 on the other end for some of the heat shield bolts which are really close to the frame of the car (no room for a socket and socket wrench). I found it on Amazon and was here in a day.
22mm open end wrench for the O2 sensors.
3 of the 10" long 3/8" extensions, and a swivel.
Floor jack with a few blocks of 2x4 pieces of wood to fit on the lower oil pan.
8mm socket on my cordless driver to zip off all of the plastic splash shield bolts.
On the driver's side, it is impossible to remove the 3rd and final bolt for the heat shield that covers the engine mount and mount bolt. It's way up around and behind the mount, it'd only be accessible when the engine is completely out. All I did was bend the heat shield up and away enough to where I could get the bolt out and back in. Just bent it back in place with my fingers and got the other two bolts back in no problem.
I jacked up the engine as far as I could to where the back side of the engine is just touching the firewall. I was getting up and checking to see if the engine still wiggled when I pushed it around to make sure it was still free. As soon as I made contact, I stopped. Then back below, I used a crow bar to help rock the engine over to the driver's side to allow JUST enough room for me to pry the passenger side mount out and to get the new one back in.
I'm really surprised how bad the driver's side mount was. It's like they used a mount from a smaller engine car because I really don't think it should be that bad after only 50k miles. I've been working on cars for 30 years and never seen one this bad.after this many miles.
Great information about the drivers side. Thanks for making the video, and I hope I never have to deal with it. I am glad the shop insisted on replacing mine when they replaced my engine.
Hey Guys! Just replaced mounts yesterday (what an ordeal). However, found an easier way to deal with the passenger side Mount removal! Thanks to a friend that happened to be on the front of the vehicle jacking the motor up and down. He pointed to some space accessible from the front side of the engine. You can easily remove the Mount by removing a lower air duct from the front passenger side of the engine, you will find space to get the Mount through there. After removing that lower air duct, the only obstruction is the plug that is connected to the alternator. Just unplug it and voila! The Mount fits through!!
You still have to remove the catalytic Converter to access the Horizontal motor Mount bolt. It just makes it easier to get it out and in from the front.
Another suggestion, Since I attached both mounts using the horizontal top bolts first, I found it was a pain lowering the engine and making sure both mounts will sit properly on the subframe. If you have the chance, buy 4 much longer vertical bolts with the same thread as original 4 mounting ones. And attach them to the mounts, always trough the original subframe holes for alignment, the excess bolt length will help guide the mounts on their way down when you lower the engine. Once the mounts are fully and properly seated, remove the bolts and install the original ones. Without this you will require someone to be jacking the engine up and down while you push the Mount/engine side to side to make it sit properly.
Forgot to mention, this is on a x166. A 2015 GL550.
Hope it helps!
Bad News Addendum
The cooling tube that i removed, seemed to have been broken before the mount replacement process, that is the reason it was so easy to remove. After a closer look, there was a broken tab on it. I bought a replacement, and I was able to remove the bolt that was holding the broken tab down.
Unfortunately, it is not too hard to remove the broken tab without the whole tube. But putting the same bolt back with a good cooling tube was impossible. There is not enough room for a tool to tighten it down. I was not able to even start threading it in, the rest of the tube body is on the way.
The airduct is probably installed when the engine is out of the vehicle. At the moment i used cable ties to fasten it, I know, what a cheap way to fix it
I had an idea that will try next chance i get. it would be to thread in the bolt a little bit without the duct, and modify the tab to make a slot instead of a hole, that would allow me to slide the duct tab under the bolt. Wish me luck!.
So the bottom line is, if the duct tab is broken you can easily pull the mount through there, if not, you either do it from the back, or even break the duct tab (not recommended, unless you want to buy an extra part, the used one i bought was around $40 dollars)
I'll try to come back and give you guys an update.
Thanks
Last edited by harryfrank; 07-31-2023 at 07:49 AM.
Reason: Addendum
Hey, I'm confused what tube you broke on the front passenger side of your truck. You said lower air duct but then said coolant pipe? Can you clarify or post a photo?
By cooling tube I meant the plastic tube that cools the motor mount. In reality don’t know if that is what’s there for though. But the duct directs air right into it.
10-28-2019, 10:41 PM
