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GL450 coolant hose leak update, problem identified!
So in my previous post, I was not able to tell what part number it was that was broke. I knew it was a coolant hose, but it turned out it was actually 2 different hoses. The part numbers are 278-200-09-00 and 278-200-10-00. One of them is the coolant hose for the turbocharger. Now the REAL problem begins.I can not for the life of me figure out how to get these 2 hoses out. I have removed the driver side wheel and fender in hopes of being able to access them from there. But there is a metal heat shield completely blocking access. I removed the skirt from underneath front end thinking maybe I would have a better shot from there, and nope. I'm really stuck here and any help would be greatly appreciated.
wow, thank you for the lead/tip. I am going to try and do this. I will post pics/updates and even possibly film some of the journey. Hopefully I can contribute to the community. We'll see how this goes
So I’ve gotten quite a few things off. Finally got the large aluminum air intake pipe off. Originally thought I was going to have to take off the belt and the thermostat, but looks like I won’t have to. Think I have enough room to work out the front part issues. Next step is to undo the engine mounts and try to raise the engine with a jack to see if I can get access to those coolant pipes on the side of the engine. That stupid heat shield gets in the way of everything.
Thanks for the reply. Would you happen to have the diagrams from those procedures? I'm assuming the poly-v belt is the same thing as the serpentine belt? Still really unsure of how to gain access to the side of the engine where the coolant pipes go into the turbo. In all honesty, I MAY be able to get a ratchet down there to undo the fastening torx bolts, but the reinstallation will most likely be next to impossible. As far as part 10-00 not being listed on this vehicle, I can clearly see the part on the engine and it is an exact match to the part that the dealership sold me. So not really sure what the deal is with that.
Here are some pics to update where I'm at. One of them has the 2 problem pipes circled in red.
WIS doesn't specifically say how to remove the pipes. It just says "remove them". This to me means it should be clear on how to do this to the average M-B technician. A suggestion is to assemble a collection of socket extensions and swivels and find what works best. Easy for me to say this, not standing in front of the vehicle. Can you take a couple photos from the driver side fender/wheel, looking down into the engine bay?
Tape or other clever stickiness will hold a screw in a socket while being being lowered into a hard to reach place, for reassembly.
WIS doesn't specifically say how to remove the pipes. I just says "remove them". This to me means it should be clear on how to do this to the average M-B technician. A suggestion is to assemble a collection of socket extensions and swivels and find what works best. Easy for me to say this, not standing in front of the vehicle. Can you take a couple photos from the driver side fender/wheel, looking down into the engine bay?
Tape or other clever stickiness will hold a screw in a socket while being being lowered into a hard to reach place, for reassembly.
Good luck, I actually just got a coolant leak in the same area a few days ago on my '14 GL450. I think mine is not exactly the same hose though. I had to wrench my old VW myself to justify keeping it because it was so unreliable, but this is the first real problem I've had with this one. I'm towing mine to a mechanic tomorrow. It's fun to dig around and figure this stuff out, except now I have 3 kids instead of 0....
Good luck, I actually just got a coolant leak in the same area a few days ago on my '14 GL450. I think mine is not exactly the same hose though. I had to wrench my old VW myself to justify keeping it because it was so unreliable, but this is the first real problem I've had with this one. I'm towing mine to a mechanic tomorrow. It's fun to dig around and figure this stuff out, except now I have 3 kids instead of 0....
Thanks for all the updates and visuals though.
I feel ya on the 3 kids thing. I have 3 as well and it makes it super tough to try and find time for this stuff. But then again, I wouldn’t have a full size SUV if I didn’t have kids! 😂😂😂
Iirc, there are two feed lines and two return lines. One out of the four line is made out of metal and the other three lines are biodegradable plastic. I don’t know why but that how it was on my E63. If one line went, the other two will soon follow, so may as well tackle all three of them while you in there.
I’ll try to dig thru my old phone tomorrow to see if I can find the pictures.
the three lines that need fix are #9, 14, and 16.
Last edited by Forrest Gump 9; 02-10-2020 at 12:27 AM.
Iirc, there are two feed lines and two return lines. One out of the four line is made out of metal and the other three lines are biodegradable plastic. I don’t know why but that how it was on my E63. If one line went, the other two will soon follow, so may as well tackle all three of them while you in there.
I’ll try to dig thru my old phone tomorrow to see if I can find the pictures.
Yep, i bought 2 of the 3 when i originally went into the dealership. I will most likely go back in and buy the other one tomorrow so that when I finally figure out how to reach them I can just knock the whole job out.
but, now we are having new issues. Finally got the torx bolt out and never in a million years would have thought that this coolant pipe would be so damn tough to get out of the fitting. If anyone knows a trick to this, I’m all ears
Dude, I’m surprised you didn’t take the thermostat housing off. That will help with seeing everything and I also recommend you to replace the thermostat too. Good luck man
Dude, I’m surprised you didn’t take the thermostat housing off. That will help with seeing everything and I also recommend you to replace the thermostat too. Good luck man
yeah, was considering it. Been on a mission to take off as little as possible. But now that the 3rd and final pipe broke and needs to be replaced as well, I will most likely end up taking the thermostat off. As far as replacing the thermostat, how highly recommended is that? I’m trying to keep costs down as much as possible (half the reason I do my own work on the vehicle)
yeah, was considering it. Been on a mission to take off as little as possible. But now that the 3rd and final pipe broke and needs to be replaced as well, I will most likely end up taking the thermostat off. As far as replacing the thermostat, how highly recommended is that? I’m trying to keep costs down as much as possible (half the reason I do my own work on the vehicle)
if you can get away with not removing the thermostat housing then don’t remove it. The thermostat is held on by three plastic prongs and they also made out of the same biodegradable plastic. One of the prongs was broken on mine but I’m not sure because of me removing it or age. Iirc the thermostat and housing was about $150
Omfg, I thought I had successfully completed the job. I started the vehicle and saw no leaks. I started taking tools back to the house and on the last trip back to the garage I heard the vehicle struggling. I ran to turn it off. I popped the hood and this is what I found:
question is, is that simply a matter of making sure that hose gets attached tighter to the thermostat? Or is this a sign that I need a new thermostat?!?! Fml. As always, any help is appreciated.
Yep, that’s exactly what it is. I can physically push it in tighter, but not exactly sure how the pin goes in. In fact, I’m not 100% sure the pin I have is from that connection (but I would safely say I’m 90% sure it is). The only time I messed with the thermostat was early on in the job when I mistakenly tonight I would have to remove it in order to replace the coolant lines. Honestly can’t remember if i pulled that pin, but I guess I must have and then moved on without replacing it. Anyone have a pic of their’s with the pin in it so I can see it for reference?
02-07-2020, 08:52 PM
