GL350 EGR valve replacement procedure
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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2012 ML350 Bluetec, 2015 GL350 Bluetec
It's not a difficult job to do actually. Here's the procedures from WIS/ASRA.
1. Drain coolant (actually from my experience you only need to drain about 1/4 of the coolant in the system. The valve is mounted in a pretty high position).
2. Remove some of the body parts above the valve (including the cover, and left bulkhead), as well as the driver side air filter housing.
3. Disconnect the coolant hose on the valve.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the valve and lift it out. It might be a little difficult to lift as the body fits pretty tight in the bore, so you might need to get some help with a slide hammer or something.
Install is the reverse order. Make sure you cleaned the gasket mating surface and install a new gasket. Torque of the two bolts is 12Nm.
1. Drain coolant (actually from my experience you only need to drain about 1/4 of the coolant in the system. The valve is mounted in a pretty high position).
2. Remove some of the body parts above the valve (including the cover, and left bulkhead), as well as the driver side air filter housing.
3. Disconnect the coolant hose on the valve.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the valve and lift it out. It might be a little difficult to lift as the body fits pretty tight in the bore, so you might need to get some help with a slide hammer or something.
Install is the reverse order. Make sure you cleaned the gasket mating surface and install a new gasket. Torque of the two bolts is 12Nm.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks! But already paid someone to do that
price was actually around 100$, not bad. Dealer on the other hand would charge me around 500$.
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#4
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 354
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2012 ML350 Bluetec, 2015 GL350 Bluetec
Stealership is being ridiculous on this. I feel dealers like those who send their cars in regularly or bought from them, but if you never been there before they would first rip you off. They like to have a steady customer instead of letting us decide what job we ask them to do or not.
#5
Yikes! I just got quoted $1300 to replace my EGR! I looked online to buy a new one and only found remanufactured parts. Does anyone know what the remanufacture process consists of for this part?
#6
It's not a difficult job to do actually. Here's the procedures from WIS/ASRA.
1. Drain coolant (actually from my experience you only need to drain about 1/4 of the coolant in the system. The valve is mounted in a pretty high position).
2. Remove some of the body parts above the valve (including the cover, and left bulkhead), as well as the driver side air filter housing.
3. Disconnect the coolant hose on the valve.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the valve and lift it out. It might be a little difficult to lift as the body fits pretty tight in the bore, so you might need to get some help with a slide hammer or something.
Install is the reverse order. Make sure you cleaned the gasket mating surface and install a new gasket. Torque of the two bolts is 12Nm.
1. Drain coolant (actually from my experience you only need to drain about 1/4 of the coolant in the system. The valve is mounted in a pretty high position).
2. Remove some of the body parts above the valve (including the cover, and left bulkhead), as well as the driver side air filter housing.
3. Disconnect the coolant hose on the valve.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the valve and lift it out. It might be a little difficult to lift as the body fits pretty tight in the bore, so you might need to get some help with a slide hammer or something.
Install is the reverse order. Make sure you cleaned the gasket mating surface and install a new gasket. Torque of the two bolts is 12Nm.
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#8
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 354
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2012 ML350 Bluetec, 2015 GL350 Bluetec
I'm not sure what you are talking about by saying "EGR". The EGR system contains several parts. If you are talking about the EGR valve I would imagine the reman process to be a completely disassembly and check/replace of any wearing parts including bearing, motor brush, and gaskets/seals. Also the manufacturer might specify some specs on the parts and they should be checked and corrected as necessary during the reman process as well. But the reman standard might be different among providers though. That's why some providers do great job on reman but some give out products that fail fast. Basically if it's a reman parts from a reputable provider you can consider it to be a "like new" parts, with same performance and at least 80% life expectancy of the new parts. In some cases, although rare, reman parts last longer than new.