When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I do not understand? 2013 GL550 4Matic 128,143 miles.
Rear tires down to 3/32 tread only after 8,449 miles? Front tires are perfect normal wear.
The majority of my driving is highway at 65 to 75 mph.
Front air struts and rear airbags were all replaced prior to mounting these Continental tires and also a four wheel alignment and speed balance was done.
I'v beed told that no one can help me at Continental Tire or American.
Anyone else have issues like this?
I've tried quite a few tires on my 63 since they wear so quickly. The Lexani's I'm running in the same size seem to wear a little better. Seem to be a solid tire for not a whole bunch of money. I think Michelin and maybe a few others will honor a mileage warranty. If you find any in this size that will honor a mileage warranty, let us know.
This tire is supposed to be rated at approximately 70,000 miles. And I just got over a thousand miles and the bags are totally gone. Does not make sense.
This tire is supposed to be rated at approximately 70,000 miles.
No it is not and never was. On GL/GLS even with 420 UTQG and so-called "M&S" rating it won't do more than 20k miles if you're very lucky and "easy going". Conti's Cross Contact UHP tires do not include any treadlife warranty. None. But do include 60 days or first 2/32 of thread "trial period" to exchange for a different Conti tires, but it is too late for that.
Of course it does not help with why rears wear at significantly faster rate than fronts. Often tire replacement (when summer performance tires are selected) is part of W166/X166 '"life".
GL and GLS are known for high tire wear, particularly on the rear axle. This is a function of excessive camber and toe specification from Mercedes, plus soft tire compound. Keeping with the manufacturer's alignment is recommended, particularly on the rear axle. Although tire wear would improve if less camber and toe were used.
Mitigations could include harder compound/higher treadwear rated tires, higher tire inflation pressure and rotation every 5,000 miles if you have all four wheels and tires the same size.
I got my michelina at pepboys w a 40k warranty. They prorated the purchase of new tires after about 25k. I do the same on my 911 that geta bout 8k to the rear.
QUOTE=threeMBs;8336900]No it is not and never was. On GL/GLS even with 420 UTQG and so-called "M&S" rating it won't do more than 20k miles if you're very lucky and "easy going". Conti's Cross Contact UHP tires do not include any treadlife warranty. None. But do include 60 days or first 2/32 of thread "trial period" to exchange for a different Conti tires, but it is too late for that.
Of course it does not help with why rears wear at significantly faster rate than fronts. Often tire replacement (when summer performance tires are selected) is part of W166/X166 '"life".[/QUOTE]
I got my michelina at pepboys w a 40k warranty. They prorated the purchase of new tires after about 25k. I do the same on my 911 that geta bout 8k to the rear.
QUOTE=threeMBs;8336900]No it is not and never was. On GL/GLS even with 420 UTQG and so-called "M&S" rating it won't do more than 20k miles if you're very lucky and "easy going". Conti's Cross Contact UHP tires do not include any treadlife warranty. None. But do include 60 days or first 2/32 of thread "trial period" to exchange for a different Conti tires, but it is too late for that.
Of course it does not help with why rears wear at significantly faster rate than fronts. Often tire replacement (when summer performance tires are selected) is part of W166/X166 '"life".
What does it have to do with OP's Conti Cross Contact UHP tires? As I've stated before, OP's OEM tires do not include any mileage warranty.
For the W166X (and every model Mercedes Benz 1968 to 2021) we manufacture both Front and Rear “alignment kits” allowing to adjust “tire contact angles” - spread load more evenly !
Fixing it right the 1st. time - the actual cause of the problem - costly, premature edge tire wear.
KMAC has been resolving such OEM suspension shortcomings since 1964.
We saw this need to cater for other then showroom height conditions - “Ongoing” adjustment for high cambered roads, altered height through load carrying or lowering, fitting wide profile tires, curb knock damage.
Front KMAC kit provides both “Camber and Caster” adjustment for the 1st. time and also replaces the 4 front highest wearing suspension bushes at the same time which are subject to premature failure and OEM are very expensive to replace. Bush extraction tool included allowing fitment without need for arm removal.
W166/X Front kit CAMBER & CASTER #504116 P $695
Also alternative budget priced “upper wishbone inner bush adjuster, also CAMBER & CASTER ADJUSTABLE #504016-2K $480 (Both Sides) Also bush extraction tool - fit without arm removal.
REAR KIT CAMBER & TOE #504026K $480 (Both Sides)
Doubles the existing adjustment range. Replacing the 4 lower arm, highest wearing bushings at the same time. Like front the unique patented design allows precise single wrench adjustment. Bush extraction tool is also included allowing to be fitted without need for arm removal.
DHL Delivery Worldwide $40 one kit ($60 Front & Rear)
PayPal, Visa or M/Card
In December of 2019 I had new Michelin tires installed. I usually drive 30K per year and I'd made it through 56K on the standard Continentals. My tires are staggered so I can't complete a 4 tire rotation. Because of the pandemic shutdown my car has spent most of the time in the garage the past 16 months. I had an alignment this week and the Mercedes dealer told me my rear tires are worn out. I have only 7K miles on them. The tires were installed by the dealer and a 4 wheel alignment was completed at the time.
I do not understand how Michelin tires can wear out in 7K miles. I am a very conservative driver. Are there any tires that might last longer? I'm very frustrated.
Flipping the tire on the rims is the only way to getting decent life. So buying symmetrical or directional tires is the smart choice. Stay away from asymmetrical tires with an inside and outside labeling, you won’t be able to do the flip. Yes it’s an expense to mount and dismount but cheaper than destroying the inner shoulders.
Flipping the tire on the rims is the only way to getting decent life. So buying symmetrical or directional tires is the smart choice. Stay away from asymmetrical tires with an inside and outside labeling, you won’t be able to do the flip. Yes it’s an expense to mount and dismount but cheaper than destroying the inner shoulders.
True, but "directional tires" are asymmetrical, and must be flipped on the rims as well.
True, but "directional tires" are asymmetrical, and must be flipped on the rims as well.
Not all some directionals are asymmetrical. And dismounting applies regardless. Symmetrical you flip on the same rim. Directionals that are symmetrical you move to the opposite side of the same axle. The point is avoiding tires with inside and outside instructions, true asymmetrical. Around me it costed me $25 each. 50bucks to get more life out of $200 tires is worth it.
Last edited by Ricardoa1; Jun 14, 2021 at 03:24 PM.
Lots of Driver Assist functions use the rear brakes to accomplish their job. Laine assist, Cross wind, along with the cornering software in general to keep this big thing on the road. Same reason rear brakes wear so much. I'm sure that has some effect on the tires also..
Just mounted new 20s and paisano told me 47 rear psi and 40 front,lets see if how quickly they wear out once i find the wheel lock key
Thats interesting the shop that did my tires also put 48psi in the rears and 39 in the fronts. I assume they are referencing some guide. Albeit not the door tag ones.
its to handle the weight,on my semi trailer 53ft where i load 48k lbs guy that i am renting the trailer from insists i keep them at 110psi or they will wear out quickly he says
Hi. An acquaintance of mine had the same problem with his pickup. The rear tires were wearing out very quickly. It took him a long time to figure out what was wrong. Eventually, he gave up and had the car repaired at a service center. In the end, it was the suspension problem that was to blame. The suspension failure created a lot of pressure on the rear axle. I don't know any more details as I am a motorcycle enthusiast. There's nothing like fresh air hitting you in the face. However, motorcycle tire prices are also high for cars, just as they are. That's when I stumbled upon https://www.sticky-stuff.co.uk/. This service offers a huge selection of motorcycle tires for all models of motorcycles and scooters.
Last edited by evangood; Mar 30, 2022 at 06:46 PM.
It's the alignment, not the tires. I ran into the same problem on my GL550. After having a 4 wheel alignment performed at the local MB dealership (only because from new the steering wheel was slightly off center) I found that the tires were starting to wear very fast and once the snow and ice started, it felt almost dangerous to drive because the back end kept wanting to get "loose". For some reason the alignment specs call for a large amount of "toe in" on the rear axle. I think this is wrong and I don't think they came from the factory set up that way, or at least mine didn't. I returned to the dealer and made them readjust the rear toe to almost zero (the way it was from the factory) and have had no problems ever since. It drives perfectly in all conditions and the tires are wearing evenly all around. I will have no trouble getting 30k+ miles out of my tires.
Alignment should be done in Sport mode if optioned. This will be ride height as you drive on the highway at high speeds, where the tires wear out the most. You should not have any toe, 0 on the rears for long life. But still the bushings are soft and the excessive camber is also to blame. Adjustable bushings or arms will be a smart investment to save the tires.
Last edited by Ricardoa1; May 4, 2022 at 03:35 PM.
