Just Replaced front Air Struts, now Trouble getting left Hub/Rotor on..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 69
Likes: 6
From: Houston, TX
2006 Toyota Tundra, 2013 Mercedes GL550
Just Replaced front Air Struts, now Trouble getting left Hub/Rotor on..
If anyone who's done this, have experience in this area, or have WIS installation guide, I would greatly, greatly appreciate any feedback on what's going on with my GL and the front control arms/driveshaft mechanism. My body is aching and energy sapped from having to perform circus acts to get the old front air strut out, then gorrilla'ing the new ones in.
For some reason, the driver's side was much more difficult to take the old strut out...the lower control arm/drive shaft was not low enough to pull the strut's fork over the drive shaft...after some monkeying around and lifting the GL a little higher on the jack stands and stepping down on the rotor, I was able to get the old one out and manage to put the new one in. But when I go to line up the connection points to install all the bolts, I cannot get the hub pushed in enough to connect it to the upper control arm. I don't know if the drive shaft slipped out too far and now cannot be pushed back in or what, and it's difficult to examine because of the rubber accordian boots that cover both ends of the shaft. I tried turning the rotor while pulling it out and in to see if the shaft's gear would mesh up properly, but there still about a 3 inch gap from making it into the upper control arm bolt...
Please, if anyone has experienced this or know what I should check or do, I'd greatly appreciate your help and knowledge...
For some reason, the driver's side was much more difficult to take the old strut out...the lower control arm/drive shaft was not low enough to pull the strut's fork over the drive shaft...after some monkeying around and lifting the GL a little higher on the jack stands and stepping down on the rotor, I was able to get the old one out and manage to put the new one in. But when I go to line up the connection points to install all the bolts, I cannot get the hub pushed in enough to connect it to the upper control arm. I don't know if the drive shaft slipped out too far and now cannot be pushed back in or what, and it's difficult to examine because of the rubber accordian boots that cover both ends of the shaft. I tried turning the rotor while pulling it out and in to see if the shaft's gear would mesh up properly, but there still about a 3 inch gap from making it into the upper control arm bolt...
Please, if anyone has experienced this or know what I should check or do, I'd greatly appreciate your help and knowledge...
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 78
gl450
It sounds like you didn't separate the CV axle from the hub - that's part of the front strut removal procedure and allows the axle to drop low enough to get the strut over it and out. It's possible that by pushing down on the hub you either pulled the axle from the differential housing or pulled the CV joint apart.
I would take off the axle nut, separate the axle from the hub to get the CV joints free and then try to massage everything into place.
I would take off the axle nut, separate the axle from the hub to get the CV joints free and then try to massage everything into place.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 69
Likes: 6
From: Houston, TX
2006 Toyota Tundra, 2013 Mercedes GL550
Thanks for the response.. yeah, think I've pulled the CV joint apart because I can see the accordian boot stretched out a little bit and there's no way for me to push the joints back by hand. I don't know what's easier, removing the CV joint and buying new boot and parts to rebuild, or just by a new replacement from Rockauto or somewhere not much more.
Do you happen to know what size the Axle nut is? I will probably have to run to a store to pickup up that large socket and a breaker bar...
Do you happen to know what size the Axle nut is? I will probably have to run to a store to pickup up that large socket and a breaker bar...
Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 167
Likes: 29
BMW 335d
Separating the CV axle from the hub is totally unnecessary. Wrap a ratchet strap around the strut and ratchet away. It'll compress the strut fully and pulling it out is a breeze. This is what I did on mine last month.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 78
gl450
Thanks for the response.. yeah, think I've pulled the CV joint apart because I can see the accordian boot stretched out a little bit and there's no way for me to push the joints back by hand. I don't know what's easier, removing the CV joint and buying new boot and parts to rebuild, or just by a new replacement from Rockauto or somewhere not much more.
Do you happen to know what size the Axle nut is? I will probably have to run to a store to pickup up that large socket and a breaker bar...
Do you happen to know what size the Axle nut is? I will probably have to run to a store to pickup up that large socket and a breaker bar...
When installing the axle nut - tighten to 250nm, then loosen 180 degrees, then tighten to 200nm and then tighten 30 degrees more.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 69
Likes: 6
From: Houston, TX
2006 Toyota Tundra, 2013 Mercedes GL550
I'm not certain which joint as both boots seems to be a little bit stretched, but I think its more the outer one (by rotor) more. When I pull on the top hub mount out a certain amount(one that mounts to upper control arm) and rotate the brake rotor I can see one, or even both joint's accordian boot stretch out and the joint then becomes disconnected as the accordian starts to twist and flex but axle doesn't twist with it. If I push the top hub arm in slowly while rotating rotor, I can see the accordian compressing back, then feel the gears in the outer and inner joint start to engage and turn the axle and differential, but it doesn't feel like it's probably sliding in far enough so the top rotor mount meets the upper control arm. I hope that is clear enough of a description..as it's hard to tell with the boot/joint not removed...
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
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gl450
Once you free the axle, you may be able to massage the joint back in without removing the boots. But given the age of the car, if you are still on the original boots/axles - maybe take this opportunity to replace the boots, or just install a new/remanufactured axle if you don't want to get dirty (or dirtier 
).
Mine is 2013 and both front outer boots cracked at around 95K miles.
).Mine is 2013 and both front outer boots cracked at around 95K miles.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 69
Likes: 6
From: Houston, TX
2006 Toyota Tundra, 2013 Mercedes GL550
I was thinking of just buying a whole new replacement from rockauto, but the boots still look kinda new...not dry rotting, dull, or dirty with oil/dirt. I think I will try to "massage" the joints back in place and run it a short time more before replacing both front axles.
* Do you know if the joints have to align a certain way to go on one another? Meaning does the spline have to align a certain way on the axle, or it doesn't matter and as long as it slides on and meshes together and beat on until it snaps/locks in place?
Just ordered the 36mm 12pt socket from Lowe's and will pick it up in an hour to try to remove the axle nut and CV axle...
* Do you know if the joints have to align a certain way to go on one another? Meaning does the spline have to align a certain way on the axle, or it doesn't matter and as long as it slides on and meshes together and beat on until it snaps/locks in place?
Just ordered the 36mm 12pt socket from Lowe's and will pick it up in an hour to try to remove the axle nut and CV axle...
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 78
gl450
No alignment. If you managed to pull the joint off the axle, you should be able to hammer it back on when it's straightened. But if you managed to pull the joint itself apart and the carrier or the ***** are partly out, getting it back together will be difficult, if not impossible without taking the boot off.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2019
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From: New Orleans
2014 GL450, 1992 W140 300SD, 1993 W140 300SE, 1987 E30 Convertible
Couple words about CV joints. They are usually holding together by locking strings. If you say by turning brake rotor you turning both CV joints i presume that you didn't separated shaft from CV joints bearings and it might be a case then you pulled out inner joint from differential . Just try to align it and wiggle and push it back with little force. No hammering needed
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 69
Likes: 6
From: Houston, TX
2006 Toyota Tundra, 2013 Mercedes GL550
Couple words about CV joints. They are usually holding together by locking strings. If you say by turning brake rotor you turning both CV joints i presume that you didn't separated shaft from CV joints bearings and it might be a case then you pulled out inner joint from differential . Just try to align it and wiggle and push it back with little force. No hammering needed
I watched a youtube vid from IDparts.com showing how to replace the CV boots, and the guy had to bang quite a bit on the joint to get it to slide out, then overcome the circlip/ring, then hammer some more before it was able to come off the axle shaft.
Last edited by v6pwr; Aug 15, 2021 at 05:15 PM.
Newbie
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: B.C
2012 Mercedes GL350
If anyone who's done this, have experience in this area, or have WIS installation guide, I would greatly, greatly appreciate any feedback on what's going on with my GL and the front control arms/driveshaft mechanism. My body is aching and energy sapped from having to perform circus acts to get the old front air strut out, then gorrilla'ing the new ones in.
For some reason, the driver's side was much more difficult to take the old strut out...the lower control arm/drive shaft was not low enough to pull the strut's fork over the drive shaft...after some monkeying around and lifting the GL a little higher on the jack stands and stepping down on the rotor, I was able to get the old one out and manage to put the new one in. But when I go to line up the connection points to install all the bolts, I cannot get the hub pushed in enough to connect it to the upper control arm. I don't know if the drive shaft slipped out too far and now cannot be pushed back in or what, and it's difficult to examine because of the rubber accordian boots that cover both ends of the shaft. I tried turning the rotor while pulling it out and in to see if the shaft's gear would mesh up properly, but there still about a 3 inch gap from making it into the upper control arm bolt...
Please, if anyone has experienced this or know what I should check or do, I'd greatly appreciate your help and knowledge...
For some reason, the driver's side was much more difficult to take the old strut out...the lower control arm/drive shaft was not low enough to pull the strut's fork over the drive shaft...after some monkeying around and lifting the GL a little higher on the jack stands and stepping down on the rotor, I was able to get the old one out and manage to put the new one in. But when I go to line up the connection points to install all the bolts, I cannot get the hub pushed in enough to connect it to the upper control arm. I don't know if the drive shaft slipped out too far and now cannot be pushed back in or what, and it's difficult to examine because of the rubber accordian boots that cover both ends of the shaft. I tried turning the rotor while pulling it out and in to see if the shaft's gear would mesh up properly, but there still about a 3 inch gap from making it into the upper control arm bolt...
Please, if anyone has experienced this or know what I should check or do, I'd greatly appreciate your help and knowledge...
