Replacing front subframe bushings
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 73
From: Houston, TX
2003 E55 AMG; 2013 GL550 4Matic; 2003 CL600
Replacing front subframe bushings
I chased terrible bouncy noises at the front-right corner for a while, very loud in the car. Re-replaced much of the front suspension, there were a few worn bushings. It got slightly better but the noises remained.
With nothing else remaining, I went to do a warranty strut replacement. Pulled away the fender liner and see an obvious gap on the front subframe bushing. Just to verify, jacked up the subframe and saw the gap close.
Preparing to replace these now. I think I can raise the air suspension with the car on ramps, suspend the motor from the top and unbolt the motor mounts, then drop the subframe slightly using a transmission jack to replace the bushings without having to disconnect brakes and steering.
Feels like a good plan, if any of you have done this job please comment with suggestions or tips. I'm mostly curious about how easily the bushings go in/out of the subframe? On my W211 I replaced the rears and it was a complicated process to press them in both directions.
WIS doesn't say to replace the bolts, which is a surprise, I'll probably replace them anyway.
With nothing else remaining, I went to do a warranty strut replacement. Pulled away the fender liner and see an obvious gap on the front subframe bushing. Just to verify, jacked up the subframe and saw the gap close.
Preparing to replace these now. I think I can raise the air suspension with the car on ramps, suspend the motor from the top and unbolt the motor mounts, then drop the subframe slightly using a transmission jack to replace the bushings without having to disconnect brakes and steering.
Feels like a good plan, if any of you have done this job please comment with suggestions or tips. I'm mostly curious about how easily the bushings go in/out of the subframe? On my W211 I replaced the rears and it was a complicated process to press them in both directions.
WIS doesn't say to replace the bolts, which is a surprise, I'll probably replace them anyway.
Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 178
Likes: 17
broom
I can't speak to it specifically...but in my experience any subframe bushings are not an easy job per se...usually requires pressing of some sort, and doesn't seem like the type of job you can do very easilly without a lift
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 73
From: Houston, TX
2003 E55 AMG; 2013 GL550 4Matic; 2003 CL600
Yeah I'm concerned about that, there are a few MB techs I know whom I can ask about their experience, but its not a common job.
The backup plan would be to put the car on jacks instead of ramps, remove the steering rack and control arms, then I should be able to remove the subframe entirely and have space to press bushings. I've had good results with a rig I built using a u-bolt, large metal bar, and an eye bolt. MB usually has a specific pressing kit per chassis.
WIS doesn't have anything specific for these that I can find, just a procedure for the full removal of the subframe.
The backup plan would be to put the car on jacks instead of ramps, remove the steering rack and control arms, then I should be able to remove the subframe entirely and have space to press bushings. I've had good results with a rig I built using a u-bolt, large metal bar, and an eye bolt. MB usually has a specific pressing kit per chassis.
WIS doesn't have anything specific for these that I can find, just a procedure for the full removal of the subframe.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 50
Likes: 18
From: SEPA
2021 C63S AMG
I chased terrible bouncy noises at the front-right corner for a while, very loud in the car. Re-replaced much of the front suspension, there were a few worn bushings. It got slightly better but the noises remained.
With nothing else remaining, I went to do a warranty strut replacement. Pulled away the fender liner and see an obvious gap on the front subframe bushing. Just to verify, jacked up the subframe and saw the gap close.
Preparing to replace these now. I think I can raise the air suspension with the car on ramps, suspend the motor from the top and unbolt the motor mounts, then drop the subframe slightly using a transmission jack to replace the bushings without having to disconnect brakes and steering.
Feels like a good plan, if any of you have done this job please comment with suggestions or tips. I'm mostly curious about how easily the bushings go in/out of the subframe? On my W211 I replaced the rears and it was a complicated process to press them in both directions.
WIS doesn't say to replace the bolts, which is a surprise, I'll probably replace them anyway.
With nothing else remaining, I went to do a warranty strut replacement. Pulled away the fender liner and see an obvious gap on the front subframe bushing. Just to verify, jacked up the subframe and saw the gap close.
Preparing to replace these now. I think I can raise the air suspension with the car on ramps, suspend the motor from the top and unbolt the motor mounts, then drop the subframe slightly using a transmission jack to replace the bushings without having to disconnect brakes and steering.
Feels like a good plan, if any of you have done this job please comment with suggestions or tips. I'm mostly curious about how easily the bushings go in/out of the subframe? On my W211 I replaced the rears and it was a complicated process to press them in both directions.
WIS doesn't say to replace the bolts, which is a surprise, I'll probably replace them anyway.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 73
From: Houston, TX
2003 E55 AMG; 2013 GL550 4Matic; 2003 CL600
I took more time and found the WIS document, they called it "replace front axle carrier bearing"
Top of the fronts has to be knocked off, the rest are pressed with special tools.
New tentative plan: buy used subframe, replace bushings with no rush, brief car downtime to swap subframes.
Top of the fronts has to be knocked off, the rest are pressed with special tools.
New tentative plan: buy used subframe, replace bushings with no rush, brief car downtime to swap subframes.
Last edited by mekantor; Nov 27, 2025 at 03:35 PM.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 12
2003 E320 4matic wagon
Possible to share WIS pdf? I too am preparing to replace all suspension parts on my 2014 GL550 - this is the first I’m reading or learning about “front axle carrier bushing.
possible to share photo(s) of this subframe bushing?
thank you.
possible to share photo(s) of this subframe bushing?
thank you.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 73
From: Houston, TX
2003 E55 AMG; 2013 GL550 4Matic; 2003 CL600
Front passenger-side
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 73
From: Houston, TX
2003 E55 AMG; 2013 GL550 4Matic; 2003 CL600
I took more time and found the WIS document, they called it "replace front axle carrier bearing"
Top of the fronts has to be knocked off, the rest are pressed with special tools.
New tentative plan: buy used subframe, replace bushings with no rush, brief car downtime to swap subframes.
Top of the fronts has to be knocked off, the rest are pressed with special tools.
New tentative plan: buy used subframe, replace bushings with no rush, brief car downtime to swap subframes.
The subframe mounts have some cracks, but I also noticed that the motor mounts are completely collapsed, just a year after I replaced them. That is far more likely to be the source of the noise, so I'll swap these first and see how things are after that. I'll avoid working on the subframe unless it does present something worse than visual symptoms. But I'll still come back and bring some PDFs relevant to it.
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Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 12
2003 E320 4matic wagon
It’s my understanding these motor mounts are hydraulic - is this correct?
Best vendor to purchase high quality parts from? Using star parts Mercedes & FCP Euro. These engine mounts I hope to get more than 2 years from.
What are your thoughts on why yours puttered out so quickly ~ 12 months?
cheers,
Best vendor to purchase high quality parts from? Using star parts Mercedes & FCP Euro. These engine mounts I hope to get more than 2 years from.
What are your thoughts on why yours puttered out so quickly ~ 12 months?
cheers,
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 73
From: Houston, TX
2003 E55 AMG; 2013 GL550 4Matic; 2003 CL600
It’s my understanding these motor mounts are hydraulic - is this correct?
Best vendor to purchase high quality parts from? Using star parts Mercedes & FCP Euro. These engine mounts I hope to get more than 2 years from.
What are your thoughts on why yours puttered out so quickly ~ 12 months?
cheers,
Best vendor to purchase high quality parts from? Using star parts Mercedes & FCP Euro. These engine mounts I hope to get more than 2 years from.
What are your thoughts on why yours puttered out so quickly ~ 12 months?
cheers,
The new ones I put it are Lemforder parts from FCP Euro.
Regarding my original post - I replaced the upper control arm, and did a test drive without the sway bar link attached. Problem remained. By process of elimination, it had to be the strut. Replaced the strut and now all is well.
So it was some internal failure in the upper mounting area of the strut. By appearance the strut is fine, no leaks, could hardly even reproduce the noise by shaking the car. I had late 2022 purchase before Arnott went to 2-year warranties, so this is a warranty replacement.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 42
Likes: 14
GL450
in my experience, the motor mounts on these last about 40-50k. i think the OEM is Lemförder. it is a ***** to get to them so i get my local shop to do it for me. the labor costs far more than the parts. i make sure to get Lemförder so i don't have to replace them every other year.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 73
From: Houston, TX
2003 E55 AMG; 2013 GL550 4Matic; 2003 CL600
in my experience, the motor mounts on these last about 40-50k. i think the OEM is Lemförder. it is a ***** to get to them so i get my local shop to do it for me. the labor costs far more than the parts. i make sure to get Lemförder so i don't have to replace them every other year.
One at a time is a good way to do it, since it causes the motor to tilt in either direction and provide a bit extra space vs. lifting the motor evenly upward. Also requires the lifting eye tool for this series of motors, which I have now but it just adds to the costs.
