In case it's helpful, I called EBC today and they confirmed that front part number for the reds and gave me this for the red rears: DP32137C. I'm ordering those and the DP31939C (fronts) and will get them put on here shortly. I'll post with initial thoughts when I have them.
Thanks @2DR Vette . I’ll look forward to hearing your report on the rear Reds. I took a flyer and bought a set of those — good to have confirmation from EBC that they are correct — and I also have the complementary set of Yellows. Trying to decide which set to install next.
b. Note: the M-B work instruction AR42.10-P-0080W here directs the removal of the sensor receptacle from the brake caliper body. I don’t think this is necessary, if you simply loosen the sensor receptacle wire to give more play. See instruction item c below.
c. Disconnect wear sensor receptacle wire from restraints in two places (see photo below). Removing the wire from the little trough (top) is straightforward. Removing the wire grommet (bottom) is a bit trickier – be careful not to break the plastic clip. Gently apply pressure to both sides of the grommet in an inboard direction until it pops out.
6. Remove brake caliper body (BOTH SIDES)
a. Release and disconnect electric parking brake actuator connector. (Note: There is a little tab, somewhat like that on a RJ11 or RJ45 jack, on the underside that must be depressed in order to free the connector. Use a little screwdriver to depress the tab if your fingers are too big.)
Figure 5: Electric parking brake actuator connector and receptacle. The release tab is hidden beneath the connector (left) in this photo.
Hi Joe, are the above 2 step absolutely necessary if ONLY pads are replaced? Is there just enough room to wiggle caliper out and still be able to retract the piston without releasing the brake lines' clips and parking brake connector? It is clear that those steps are necessary if rotor is to be removed since it gives access to rear caliper carrier bolts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joecparrish
RETURN THE VEHICLE TO SERVICE
15. Retrieve key, enter driver’s seat while keeping foot off brake, close driver’s door, key to position 1, follow instructions on multifunction display to exit from brake pad assembly position.
15A. Pump the brake pedal.
16. Test drive the vehicle, and perform any pad bedding-in procedure per recommendation of the brake pad manufacturer.
In case it's helpful, I called EBC today and they confirmed that front part number for the reds and gave me this for the red rears: DP32137C. I'm ordering those and the DP31939C (fronts) and will get them put on here shortly. I'll post with initial thoughts when I have them.
2DR Vette, once you get the pads, please let us know what is the friction temperature printed on both front and rear pads: FF, GF or GG. TIA
So my plan for the weekend is a pad swap to the redstuffs, as well as replace the wear sensors (since the dash light is on, and they're like $10 each, I might as well while I'm in there). Seems very straightforward for the fronts from the video, and the rears are basically the same as any other car (though I appreciate the detailed writeup with torque specs!!)
I am also strongly considering a fluid flush with some new ATE Typ200 (RIP SuperBlue). I've got a power bleeder and magnetic bleeder bottle- is it the same general protocol to flush fluid as for any other car, or is there something special to know about working on these?
What rotor/pad combo do you guys get? Serviced last week, SA told me front has 30% left... they charge $2100+tax (Canadian dollar) to replace , I said no thanks. Got to get the parts ready.
Hi Joe, are the above 2 step absolutely necessary if ONLY pads are replaced? Is there just enough room to wiggle caliper out and still be able to retract the piston without releasing the brake lines' clips and parking brake connector? It is clear that those steps are necessary if rotor is to be removed since it gives access to rear caliper carrier bolts.
@threeMBs , good question, but I don’t really know the answer since I’ve always done it this way for the three times I’ve performed this service. You could always try it, being very careful not to pull on these three connections when you remove the caliper body. OTOH, these are really easy operations — just a few seconds each using no tools — so I’m not sure if it’s worth the risk.
Let me know if your way works and I’ll make an appropriate note in my DIY instructions.
The one operation that I’m particularly keen to avoid is the removal of the caliper mounting bracket (part of disc rotor replacement operation). I think you can actually get the rotor off without removing this bracket, and I want to confirm this during my next rear brake service. That would save two M14 bolt operations, including the PITA torque+angular throw that results in so much cursing and skinned knuckles.
One last thing... I always replace rotors when I replace brake pads. You only get 2mm of wear before rotors go below minimum thickness, and they’re not at all difficult to remove/install unless you have issues with them getting stuck on the hubs due to salt/corrosion. I would understand if others think this is overkill (I’ve seen mention of doing rotors every other pad replacement) and/or are more cost-sensitive about it. I figure that once I’ve taken the trouble to get the vehicle jacked/stabilized, put the parking brake into service mode, withdrawn some brake fluid to accommodate caliper retraction, and taken the wheels off, I might as well do both pads *and* rotors. YMMV.
One more last thing… now that I think about it, I really think you should at least disconnect the connector for the parking brake. You wouldn’t want a spurious signal to cause the parking brake to be applied during your service operation.
What rotor/pad combo do you guys get? Serviced last week, SA told me front has 30% left... they charge $2100+tax (Canadian dollar) to replace , I said no thanks. Got to get the parts ready.
TL;DR is that some people are partial to OEM parts. I’m partial to Zimmerman and Brembo rotors; EBC Red pads. Not pretending that my opinion is the only correct one.
Also plan for wear sensor, disc rotor set screw, and some other bolts that are single-use if you adhere religiously to the M-B WIS instructions. This is all explained in the DIY instructions (first post in this thread).
The one operation that I’m particularly keen to avoid is the removal of the caliper mounting bracket (part of disc rotor replacement operation). I think you can actually get the rotor off without removing this bracket, and I want to confirm this during my next rear brake service. That would save two M14 bolt operations, including the PITA torque+angular throw that results in so much cursing and skinned knuckles.
If in fact it is possible, it would be great. As it stands now, because of what you went through above, it is a dealer service for me (rear rotors part).
Quote:
Originally Posted by joecparrish
One more last thing… now that I think about it, I really think you should at least disconnect the connector for the parking brake. You wouldn’t want a spurious signal to cause the parking brake to be applied during your service operation.
As it turns out, I won't be doing these this weekend as I've had to order rotors (too thin to save). So the brake service will be put off for a bit. That being said, does anyone have a link to an FSM or procedures for the front brakes (rotor + pad R&R) with all the salient torque specs? I'm trying to decide between DIY and taking it to my Indy shop who quoted a reasonable 4 hours of shop time to complete.
Also- if anyone is looking for Brembo rotors right now, GOOD LUCK. Nearly impossible to find a set of 4 together and I wasn't wanting to mess with a bunch of shippers. Ended up ordering 4 Zimmermann from FCP Euro. Given their lifetime warranty, and the rate at which these things eat brakes, that may turn out to be the smartest thing I've done so far...
...the front brakes (rotor + pad R&R) with all the salient torque specs...
Check out videos in posts #13 and #21 above with excellent supplemental info from Joe in post #22. All you need to know is there. I will attempt to change front rotors/pads this weekend following the above.
As it turns out, I won't be doing these this weekend as I've had to order rotors (too thin to save). So the brake service will be put off for a bit. That being said, does anyone have a link to an FSM or procedures for the front brakes (rotor + pad R&R) with all the salient torque specs? I'm trying to decide between DIY and taking it to my Indy shop who quoted a reasonable 4 hours of shop time to complete.
Also- if anyone is looking for Brembo rotors right now, GOOD LUCK. Nearly impossible to find a set of 4 together and I wasn't wanting to mess with a bunch of shippers. Ended up ordering 4 Zimmermann from FCP Euro. Given their lifetime warranty, and the rate at which these things eat brakes, that may turn out to be the smartest thing I've done so far...
Good discussion here, including torque specs for front/rear:
(Note that our GL/GLS63's are X166.874/875 in M-B model parlance.)
Also, see the two WIS attachments below. Note that theAR42.10-P-1610CMG is not specifically intended for the X166 models, but the instructions are identical. I've not been able to find the "proper" AR42.10-P-1610GQA document online.
@2DR Vette , would you mind confirming that the FCP Euro part numbers for the Zimmermann rotors are as follows:
Front: M-B 166-421-05-12 - Zimmermann 400.3698.20 - FCP ZIM-400369820
Rear: M-B 166-423-05-12 - Zimmermann 400.3699.20 - FCP ZIM-400369920
Speaking of torque. Front 80 NM torque plus 45 degree throw must be somehow "translated" to a torque number. I have these front M14 hex 21mm bolts. There are huge and IMO 80 NM is nothing (as comparison, M14 hex 17mm wheel bolts have torque of 150 NM). Joe you stated yourself that torque required to achieve 45 degree throw (after the initial 80 NM) is significant. Why did MB make it so difficult? Couldn't their engineers "compute" the final required torque?
(Note that our GL/GLS63's are X166.874/875 in M-B model parlance.)
Also, see the two WIS attachments below. Note that theAR42.10-P-1610CMG is not specifically intended for the X166 models, but the instructions are identical. I've not been able to find the "proper" AR42.10-P-1610GQA document online.
@2DR Vette , would you mind confirming that the FCP Euro part numbers for the Zimmermann rotors are as follows:
Front: M-B 166-421-05-12 - Zimmermann 400.3698.20 - FCP ZIM-400369820
Rear: M-B 166-423-05-12 - Zimmermann 400.3699.20 - FCP ZIM-400369920
Wonderful- thank you for this! The parts I ordered from FCP were SKU: ZIM-400369820 (F) and ZIM-400369920 (R). Will advise if they fit - they sure look the part and the dimensions match....
Quote:
Originally Posted by threeMBs
2DR Vette, once you get the pads, please let us know what is the friction temperature printed on both front and rear pads: FF, GF or GG. TIA
Both are GG. Here is what is printed on the back of each:
Front:
EBC RedStuff Ceramic Made In UK
90R-02A0156/26813
AF88/42GG 31939C25N21
Rear:
EBC RedStuff Ceramic Made in UK
90R-02A0156/31002
AF88/42GG 32127C23N21
Check out videos in posts #13 and #21 above with excellent supplemental info from Joe in post #22. All you need to know is there. I will attempt to change front rotors/pads this weekend following the above.
I have finished replacing front pads and rotors using M12 10mm hex caliper bolts method (I would not have even attempted to do it via M14 21mm steering knuckle bolts as in my opinion without a lift applying required torque per specs is impossible). This was the very first time I've ever done anything brakes related myself. It was kind of fun (except for removal of the rotors), but It took almost 2/hrs per side. I had all the tools (and then some) mentioned above by Joe and in the videos. Removing rotors was NOT fun.
I would strongly recommend to replace all bolts as MB advises (either M14 21mm steering knuckle p/n 019-990-56-01 or M12 10mm hex caliper p/n 003-990-79-05), they are inexpensive directly from MB dealers online.
I would also advise to replace caliper's pins p/n 0004215174 and anti-rattle clip p/n 0014210991, however I would not buy these Brembo made parts from MB for $150-210, but instead Centric made kit p/n 117.35041 now on Amazon for only $13 (yes over $200 retail, $150 wholesale from MB or only $13 from Amazon). EDIT: Initially these (centric vs. brembo) parts looked identical to me, but after further scrutiny there are very minor non-functional differences. Difference in price is truly staggering.
Joe, many thanks for starting this thread (as well as the M12 bolts related one from post #22 above) as I would not have even attempted to do it without it.
I have finished replacing front pads and rotors using M12 10mm hex caliper bolts method (I would not have even attempted to do it via M14 21mm steering knuckle bolts as in my opinion without a lift applying required torque per specs is impossible). This was the very first time I've ever done anything brakes related myself. It was kind of fun, but It took almost 2/hrs per side. I had all the tools (and then some) mentioned above by Joe and in the videos. Removing rotors is NOT fun.
I would recommend to replace all bolts as MB advises (either M14 21mm steering knuckle p/n 019-990-56-01 or M12 10mm hex caliper p/n 003-990-79-05), they are inexpensive.
I would also advise to replace caliper's pins p/n 0004215174and anti-rattle clip p/n 0014210991, however I would not buy these Brembo made parts from MB for $150-210, but instead Centric made kit p/n 117.35041 now on Amazon for only $13 (yes over $200 retail, $150 wholesale from MB or only $13 from Amazon). These parts look and feel basically identical to me.
Joe, many thanks for starting this thread (as well as the M12 bolts related one) as I would not have even attempted to do it without it.
@threeMBs, congratulations on completing this DIY job. I’m glad that the instructions were helpful. I also credit @cm60k for the information on the M12 bolts.
FWIW, I think you’ll have an easier time removing the rotors in future operations. I’ve been using the Zimmerman coated rotors in the back and Brembo in the front—along with a pretty significant wire brushing of the hub mounting flanges—and they seem to come off much easier than the OEM rotors did.
Lastly, I don’t think it’s necessary to replace the front caliper pins and anti-rattle springs upon every service, but I agree that there are less expensive solutions available than the OEM Brembo parts. Perhaps keep a set ready to exchange if you notice damage on the existing set — but you should get several pad replacements for each spring/pin replacement. I agree more with regular replacement of the caliper bolts as these are one-use recommended in the WIS instructions.
I have finished replacing front pads and rotors using M12 10mm hex caliper bolts method (I would not have even attempted to do it via M14 21mm steering knuckle bolts as in my opinion without a lift applying required torque per specs is impossible). This was the very first time I've ever done anything brakes related myself. It was kind of fun, but It took almost 2/hrs per side. I had all the tools (and then some) mentioned above by Joe and in the videos. Removing rotors is NOT fun.
I would recommend to replace all bolts as MB advises (either M14 21mm steering knuckle p/n 019-990-56-01 or M12 10mm hex caliper p/n 003-990-79-05), they are inexpensive.
I would also advise to replace caliper's pins p/n 0004215174 and anti-rattle clip p/n 0014210991, however I would not buy these Brembo made parts from MB for $150-210, but instead Centric made kit p/n 117.35041 now on Amazon for only $13 (yes over $200 retail, $150 wholesale from MB or only $13 from Amazon). These parts look and feel basically identical to me.
Joe, many thanks for starting this thread (as well as the M12 bolts related one) as I would not have even attempted to do it without it.
Curious on the torque spec - the highest I see mentioned in the thread is 150Nm (~110 lbft according to the convertors). This doesn't seem horribly high to me- I torque wheel nuts to 95 regularly, with a reasonably sized wrench handle. Worst case, you put a pipe over the wrench (handle of the floor jack I use) and one can pretty easily generate high torque figures.
@threeMBs, congratulations on completing this DIY job. I’m glad that the instructions were helpful. I also credit @cm60k for the information on the M12 bolts.
Curious on the torque spec - the highest I see mentioned in the thread is 150Nm (~110 lbft according to the convertors). This doesn't seem horribly high to me- I torque wheel nuts to 95 regularly, with a reasonably sized wrench handle. Worst case, you put a pipe over the wrench (handle of the floor jack I use) and one can pretty easily generate high torque figures.
What am I missing here?
@2DR Vette , please post a photo of your wrench configuration on the rear caliper bracket attach bolts to deliver the 60 N-m + 45 deg angular throw. This area that has tight access clearances to the bolt head, limited room for long handles, and poor kinematics when you're lying on your back under the vehicle. I would be thrilled if you found a good solution.
Note: I'm not complaining about the 150 N-m required for torquing wheel bolts, nor the 110 N-m to torque the front caliper socket head cap screws. Those areas have good clearances and easy kinematics to deliver large torques.
DISCLAIMER
This post is for information only. Your vehicle’s braking system is safety-critical, and therefore requires extra attention and diligence when any maintenance operations are performed upon it. Furthermore, this particular maintenance operation requires the vehicle to be jacked up. If you are not familiar with and comfortable with jacking and stabilizing your vehicle, and with the use of a torque wrench, please do not attempt this operation. You assume all risks associated with working on your own vehicle, and do not hold me liable for any damages. Having this work done by a qualified professional is recommended.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This post benefits from the good efforts of several MBWorld list members. The format is loosely based on an unrelated post by @Keep; I don’t know if @Keep is the originator of this format, but it is very useful. @cyclrder, @cm60k, and @chassis have also provided helpful information that is incorporated into this post.
APPLICABLE M-B WORK INSTRUCTIONS (Attached Below)
Move rear axle brakepads into assembly position (AR42.10-P-1700-02W)
17mm “Mercedes Flower Head” lug nut socket (I use an ARES 59012)
17mm thin open-end wrench (I use a Park SCW-17 cone wrench. Other open-end/combination wrenches, such as Snap-On, may be thin enough. Craftsman isn’t.)
Wheel hanger alignment pin M14x1.5 (included with ARES 59012)
Brake caliper piston spreader (I use a DASBET 8542041201)
13mm and 18mm combination wrenches – long 18mm is especially helpful
Needle-nose pliers
Wire brush
Dead-blow hammer
Short bungee cord or wire hanger to hold brake caliper body
Safety glasses
Shop rags and floor protection
OPTIONAL TOOLS
˝” impact wrench for wheel lug bolt removal
Angle grinder or drill with wire wheel
Auxiliary lighting
Figure 1: Tools used for this operation
PREPARE THE VEHICLE FOR SERVICE
0. Optional: Raise vehicle to maximum height (Airmatic)
(Note: I need to do this in order to get my Unijack jackstands under the vehicle. Skip this step if you use a shop lift, etc.)
a. With engine running, depress vehicle height button on center console. Multifunction display will show vehicle “raising”.
b. Once “raising” indicator extinguishes, turn off engine.
1. Move rear brake pads into assembly position
(Note: @cyclrder also listed these instructions in his DIY posting. You can use his or use the instructions in AR42.10-P-1700-02W. I include them here to be comprehensive.)
a. Close hood and doors.
b. Release parking brake.
c. With foot off brake pedal, Keyless start push ON -OR- key position 1.
d. Multifunction display must be on the Odometer/Trip display (scroll to this using arrow keys if necessary)
e. On steering wheel, press “accept phone call” button and then (1 sec later) press “OK” button and hold both approximately 5-10 seconds until multifunction display changes to the Workshop menu
f. Scroll using down arrow key to “Brakepad replacement” and confirm with “OK” button.
g. The multifunction dispaly will show “Move to assembly position?” Confirm with “OK” button.
h. Switch off ignition, exit vehicle, and move key to >2m away. Do not depress brake pedal during brake maintenance.
2. Remove brake fluid to allow back-filling into brake fluid reservoir
a. Raise hood.
b. Remove plastic cover above left suspension shock tower. (Note: There are no clips or other features that require special actions. Just lift up on the cover. You may need to move the hood underside rubber seal a bit to allow the cover to come off.)
c. Clean area around brake fluid reservoir cap with a shop rag.
d. Remove cap to brake fluid reservoir and then remove filter ring inside the reservoir neck.
e. Remove brake fluid down to the “MIN” line. Use brake fluid vacuum bulb or siphon line to remove brake fluid into a clean container that can be sealed to keep moisture and contaminants out. (Note: You will add some of this fluid back after the new pads have been installed.)
3. Lift or jack vehicle
(Note: there have been many threads on MBWorld about the challenges of jacking M-B unibody vehicles. For those of us not blessed with a vehicle lift, the challenge is that M-B provides only one single jacking point for each corner, so there is no good way to jack the vehicle and then emplace a jack stand. I use Powerbuilt 620471 Unijack 6000 lb. combination bottle jack/jackstands to address this issue. They fit under the vehicle (barely) when the extensions are removed and the Airmatic suspension is set to its maximum height. Emplace them very carefully to straddle the plastic jacking point. SAFETY POINT: I do not recommend using a floor jack with no jackstand to support the vehicle while you are working on it. Don’t make this mistake — if your floor jack fails, the consequences to your vehicle and possibly your body are SEVERE!)
a. If you don’t have an impact wrench, now is the time to slightly loosen the five wheel lug bolts before jacking. Make sure that you’re using a socket compatible with the 17mm “Mercedes flower head” style bolt heads. If you find that your wheel bolt heads have been marred by previous use of an improper socket, replace with new bolts. The wheel lug bolt part number is A-000-990-54-07.
b. Lift or jack vehicle at left and right rear jacking points until each rear tire clears the floor by at least one inch.
c. Install jackstands or other safety supports for raised vehicle.
4. Remove wheel (BOTH SIDES)
(Note: it might seem like the alignment pin is optional, but the larger wheels on the GLS 63 are quite heavy and awkward to maneuver. Furthermore, the use of bolts (vs. studs) means that the wheel will tend to fall off when the final bolt is removed. I don’t think this job can be done solo without using the alignment pin.)
a. At top bolt location, remove wheel lug bolt and screw in the M14x1.5 wheel alignment pin.
b. Remove remaining four wheel lug bolts.
c. Slide wheel off.
d. Remove wheel alignment pin
Figure 2: Right rear hub, disc rotor, and caliper -- ready for service!
DISASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
5. Remove brake pad wear sensor (RIGHT SIDE ONLY)
a. Disconnect wear sensor connector body by pulling it outboard from the sensor receptacle. Use needle-nose pliers to grasp the connector body if your fingers don’t fit in the tight space.
Figure 3: Brake wear sensor connector and receptacle
b. Note: the M-B work instruction AR42.10-P-0080W here directs the removal of the sensor receptacle from the brake caliper body. I don’t think this is necessary, if you simply loosen the sensor receptacle wire to give more play. See instruction item c below.
c. Disconnect wear sensor receptacle wire from restraints in two places (see photo below). Removing the wire from the little trough (top) is straightforward. Removing the wire grommet (bottom) is a bit trickier – be careful not to break the plastic clip. Gently apply pressure to both sides of the grommet in an inboard direction until it pops out.
6. Remove brake caliper body (BOTH SIDES)
a. Release and disconnect electric parking brake actuator connector. (Note: There is a little tab, somewhat like that on a RJ11 or RJ45 jack, on the underside that must be depressed in order to free the connector. Use a little screwdriver to depress the tab if your fingers are too big.)
Figure 5: Electric parking brake actuator connector and receptacle. The release tab is hidden beneath the connector (left) in this photo.
b. Using a 13mm socket, remove the caliper bolts from the caliper guide pins (two places). Once you’ve cracked the bolt loose, you’ll need to insert a thin 17mm open end wrench to keep the guide pin boot from rotating (and possibly tearing) while you complete the removal of the caliper bolt.
Figure 6: Use a thin 17 mm open-end wrench to keep the caliper pin boot from turning
c. Remove brake caliper from caliper support bracket. Support caliper in one hand while you remove the used brake pads from the caliper body or caliper support bracket.
d. Using a short bungee cord or wire hanger, support the caliper body so that it doesn’t hang from the brake line (and/or brake wear sensor receptacle wire on right side)
Figure 7: Use a shorter bungee cord than this one if possible
e. Press brake piston into caliper body using piston spreader tool. Piston should retract almost flush with the caliper body.
7. Remove brake caliper support bracket (BOTH SIDES)
a. Remove metal springs from caliper support bracket (two places).
(Note: If you use the Brembo P50101 brake pad kit, the metal springs provided in the kit are not properly sized for this particular caliper support bracket. Therefore, you’ll need to reuse the existing metal springs. They clean up well with some brake cleaner fluid and a toothbrush.)
b. Using a 18mm wrench, remove the caliper support bracket bolts from the caliper support bracket (two places). (Note: These bolts are installed with high torque, so it will take quite a bit of force to crack the bolt loose. I used a long 18 mm combination wrench and a dead blow hammer to crack the bolt loose. Once cracked loose, the bolt unscrews easily by hand.)
c. Remove caliper support bracket from rear suspension wheel carrier.
Figure 8: Brake caliper support bracket and bolts
d. Clean up the caliper support bracket, steel springs, and caliper support bracket bolts using brake parts cleaner fluid.
8. Remove brake rotor (BOTH SIDES)
a. Using a T30 bit, remove the brake rotor set screw.
b. Remove the brake rotor from the wheel hub.
(Note: It is likely that the rotor hat will be stuck on the wheel hub, requiring some serious hammering on the disc with the dead blow hammer in order to free the rotor from the hub. This problem will be worse in wet or cold environments if rust/salt is able to build up. I really hate hammering on the disc, as I think it cannot be good for the wheel bearings. If anyone knows of a gentler way to lever the rotor off of the wheel hub, please let me know.)
c. Clean up any accumulated rust or salt buildup from the wheel hub using a wire brush. A toothbrush-style brush works fine, but a brush mounted on a drill or angle grinder turns this chore into a fun task. Don’t forget eye protection.
REASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Note: Generally speaking, reassembly is the inverse of assembly, so I’ll not repeat those instructions in such high level of detail. I will call out torque values and any aspects that are unique to reassembly.
9. Install brake rotor (BOTH SIDES)
a. Place the brake rotor (A-166-423-05-12 (or Brembo 09.8710.11-3 or Zimmerman 400.3699.20)) on the wheel hub, being careful to align the set screw hole on the rotor with the threaded hole in the wheel hub.
b. Install the brake rotor set screw (A-220-421-01-71 (or Febi-Bilstein 21663)) using a T30 bit, torque to 10 Nm.
(Note: I don’t think this torque setting is important. All the set screw does is hold the rotor on the wheel hub until the wheel is installed. Instead, I use the famous TFAR (That Feels About Right) method to install this screw without bothering with a torque wrench. Be careful that you don’t cross-thread or strip the threads in the wheel hub.)
10. Install brake caliper support bracket and brake pads (BOTH SIDES)
a.Inspect the caliper guide pins and boots (two places) for smooth action and/or leakage of grease from under the boots.
(Note: If the caliper pins do not operate smoothly, lubricate or replace them. It’s important for the anti-lock braking system and also the active lane-control system that the brake pads slide smoothly on the caliper pins.)
b. Install the metal springs on the caliper support bracket (two places).
c. Install the caliper support bracket to the rear suspension wheel carrier using the caliper support bracket bolts (two places) using a 18mm wrench, torque to 60 Nm then 45° angular throw.
(Note: This is the least pleasant task in this entire operation, IMHO. I am not able to get enough leverage using muscle power alone to make that 45° throw, even if I use an extra-long 18mm combination wrench. The tight quarters prevent the use of a breaker bar and socket. I need to use a dead-blow hammer to get the 45° throw, and I suspect the work instructions assume that this operation is done with smoothly-applied leverage only. If anyone has a better solution to this issue, I’d love to hear it.)
d. Install new brake pads (A-007-420-86-20 (or Brembo P50101)) with the pad ears riding on the metal springs. Note that the pad with the receptacle for the wear sensor goes on the inboard (I.e., caliper piston) side.
(Note: I know that most brake pad installations recommend the use of anti-squeal paste on the pad ears and backing plate. The M-B work instructions AR42.10-P-0080W and AR42.10-P-1700W specifically say not to use brake paste or lubricants. Before I acquired the vehicle, several brake services had been performed at a M-B dealership, and I found no evidence of any paste or lubricant ever being used on these surfaces. Therefore, I don’t use any paste or lube in this procedure.)
11. Install brake caliper body (BOTH SIDES)
a. Remove the brake caliper body from bungee cord or wire hangar support and slide it into place over the brake pads. (Note: Some wiggling may be required if the pads are thick or the caliper piston hasn’t been retracted all the way into the caliper body.
b. Install the caliper bolts (A-019-990-64-01; included in many brake pad kits, yes for Brembo) through the caliper support bracket (two places) using a 13mm wrench, torque to 35 Nm. Don’t forget to use the 17mm thin wrench to keep the guide pin boots from rotating during the bolt installation.
c. Reconnect the electric parking brake actuator wire connector.
d. Reinstall the brake wear sensor receptacle wire in its restraints (two places: one trough, one grommet clip).
12. Install brake wear sensor (RIGHT SIDE ONLY)
a. Insert the brake wear sensor (A-211-540-17-17 (or Bowa A1680003)) into the inboard brake pad. There’s a little hole in the pad to receive the probe-like protrusion on the wear sensor. The wires for the sensor should point in the outboard direction. See photo below.
Figure 9: Brake wear sensor installed on right inboard brake pad. Next step is attaching the wear sensor connector to receptacle
b. Insert the brake wear sensor connector into the receptacle. It should bottom out with a slight click. Refer to Figure 3 to see how the installed connector looks when it’s bottomed out correctly.
14. Reinstall brake fluid reservoir filter ring, refill brake fluid to MAX line on brake fluid reservoir, reinstall brake fluid reservoir cap, reinstall plastic cover over left suspension shock tower, close hood.
15. Retrieve key, enter driver’s seat while keeping foot off brake, close driver’s door, key to position 1, follow instructions on multifunction display to exit from brake pad assembly position.
16. Test drive the vehicle, and perform any pad bedding-in procedure per recommendation of the brake pad manufacturer.
17. Once the vehicle is parked, crack open a cold beverage -- secure in the knowledge that you’ve gained experience about how your vehicle works and you’ve also saved a bundle in labor charges and often-inflated parts prices!
I would greatly appreciate corrections or suggestions to improve this article. Regards, Joe
Thank you for this great write-up! Wish I would have come across this before performing my job.
Question - I completed the job mostly to the steps you’ve outlined. I’m experiencing very soft braking with much more pressure required to get the same effect as prior to the job. Bled the system twice with no impact. Do you have any insights as to what could be the possible cause?
Thank you for this great write-up! Wish I would have come across this before performing my job.
Question - I completed the job mostly to the steps you’ve outlined. I’m experiencing very soft braking with much more pressure required to get the same effect as prior to the job. Bled the system twice with no impact. Do you have any insights as to what could be the possible cause?
Increased pedal pressure needed to deliver equivalent braking leads me to two possible causes:
1) Air in brake lines. (You said that you bled them twice, and so it sounds like this is not the cause in your case.)
2) Brake pads not properly bedded in.
Have you performed the bedding-in procedure recommended by the brake pad manufacturer?
1. Move rear brake pads into assembly position
(Note: @cyclrder also listed these instructions in his DIY posting. You can use his or use the instructions in AR42.10-P-1700-02W. I include them here to be comprehensive.)
a. Close hood and doors.
b. Release parking brake.
c. With foot off brake pedal, Keyless start push ON -OR- key position 1.
d. Multifunction display must be on the Odometer/Trip display (scroll to this using arrow keys if necessary)
e. On steering wheel, press “accept phone call” button and then (1 sec later) press “OK” button and hold both approximately 5-10 seconds until multifunction display changes to the Workshop menu
f. Scroll using down arrow key to “Brakepad replacement” and confirm with “OK” button.
g. The multifunction dispaly will show “Move to assembly position?” Confirm with “OK” button.
h. Switch off ignition, exit vehicle, and move key to >2m away. Do not depress brake pedal during brake maintenance.
Hi Joe.
What does the bolded statement above refers to exactly? Is it literarily (that is do not touch brake pedal until completely done and electronic parking brake is re-engaged) or is ONLY during and while the message "Move to assembly position" is displayed with "OK" pressed. Then when electronic parking brake is retracted and key is removed from ignition (or start button at "0") you can actually depress brake pedal (if needed during pads/rotors/calipers replacement) or you should not? The reason I am asking that I will be installing AMG63 brakes on my "AMG"43 which will require installation of new 63 calipers so flexible brake hoses will require removal in order to install them. To prevent/minimize brake fluid linkage, usually brake pedal is depressed and held while hoses are changed/new calipers installed. Obviously that is how it should/would work for the front since there is no electronic parking brake. Shouldn't it work identical for the rear as well once electronic parking brake is retracted and harness disconnected from the caliper? To me that is what AR42.10-P-1700-02W (at the very end) implies. What is your take on it, Joe?
@threeMBs, the following statement appears in the WIS AR42.10-P-1700-02W for putting the brakes into service mode:
“Do not depress the service brake during "Move to assembly position". Otherwise, the spindle in the brake caliper can be damaged.”
After reading your question, I realize that my instruction to not depress the brake pedal during service is too expansive. I’ll modify it to be just during the “Move to assembly position” part of the operation. Thanks for pointing this out.
—Joe
Quote:
Originally Posted by threeMBs
Hi Joe.
What does the bolded statement above refers to exactly? Is it literarily (that is do not touch brake pedal until completely done and electronic parking brake is re-engaged) or is ONLY during and while the message "Move to assembly position" is displayed with "OK" pressed. Then when electronic parking brake is retracted and key is removed from ignition (or start button at "0") you can actually depress brake pedal (if needed during pads/rotors/calipers replacement) or you should not? The reason I am asking that I will be installing AMG63 brakes on my "AMG"43 which will require installation of new 63 calipers so flexible brake hoses will require removal in order to install them. To prevent/minimize brake fluid linkage, usually brake pedal is depressed and held while hoses are changed/new calipers installed. Obviously that is how it should/would work for the front since there is no electronic parking brake. Shouldn't it work identical for the rear as well once electronic parking brake is retracted and harness disconnected from the caliper? To me that is what AR42.10-P-1700-02W (at the very end) implies. What is your take on it, Joe?
@2DR Vette , please post a photo of your wrench configuration on the rear caliper bracket attach bolts to deliver the 60 N-m + 45 deg angular throw. This area that has tight access clearances to the bolt head, limited room for long handles, and poor kinematics when you're lying on your back under the vehicle. I would be thrilled if you found a good solution.
Note: I'm not complaining about the 150 N-m required for torquing wheel bolts, nor the 110 N-m to torque the front caliper socket head cap screws. Those areas have good clearances and easy kinematics to deliver large torques.
I wish I had a good answer for you on this, but I caved and took the car to my local shop for the work. I'm betting a lift and shop full of tools makes this FAR easier.
In terms of the pads themselves, I finished the bed in last night after ~200 miles of gentle street driving, per EBCs direction. Initial impressions are what one would expect- initial bite/feel is pretty heavily diminished, but overall stopping power during the bedding, when I got into the pedal travel a good bit, still felt about like what it was with OEMs. Bedding process was 5 hard stops from 60-20, which was quite a bit of fun. My kid asked why her booster seat was hanging by the seat belt when she got in to go to school this morning. Also of note, dust has been FAR less than the OEMs as one would expect, including after the bedding.
I'll get some time in it over the coming weeks and will check back in once I get a chance to take it for a longer drive, but for now I'm a happy camper.
I wish I had a good answer for you on this, but I caved and took the car to my local shop for the work. I'm betting a lift and shop full of tools makes this FAR easier.
No need to bet - it is a given. I have all the required tools, but no lift. Will attempt to do this myself this week since I will be swapping calipers on my 43 to 63 as well. I've seen hours of YouTube videos and know the process in my sleep now. Will see if I can undo 18mm rear bolts first then torque them back at 60NM/45LBS with 45 degree throw. I will be using additional blue loctite on this 18mm hex bolts (they already have "preinstalled" loctite) just in case I won't be able to do required full 45 degree throw.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
, I said no thanks. Got to get the parts ready. 
Also of note, dust has been FAR less than the OEMs as one would expect, including after the bedding.
