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Use a punch to push pins out...
[IMG]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbworld.org-vbulletin/1632x918/80-image_860c27425b4ff03f8b1a687e144f7b32413ce800.jpg
Pads should pull out easily... If not.. I used a flat blade screwdriver to gently push them into the caliper.
Here are the new vs old
While I was here... I took the opportunity to paint the rotors with silver caliper paint (this is rust after 2k miles)
The rear pads require putting the car into pad service mode as described here:
1. Turn the ignition to Position 1.
2. Make sure the mileage is displayed in the dash center window
3. Don't wait very long before accomplishing the next step: Push the far right "telephone accept call" button on the steering wheel, then push the "OK" button on the left and hold both down for 5 seconds or so.
This will move the cylinder in the caliper far enough back to replace the pads...
You need a socket and a crescent wrench to remove the bolts (use thread lock when reinstalling)
Here is another view... Also you can how nicer the rotor looks with the paint... Don't worry about overspray as it will come off the first brake application.
Pads pop right out
Now I had an issue where the rear pads were thicker than OEM ... So be sure to specify that you need the thinner version... I was still able to jam them in.. But they sure we're smelly and hot for the first ten miles... But after a ride back from the beach house... No more dragging or smell... And no warped disc.
Porterfield acknowledged the mistake in shipping and were quite surprised that I got them in... They are fine now and work fabulously.
All done! Porterfield pad review will be forthcoming.
Thanks for the informative write up. I like to do my own maintenance and this will be a great reference for me in the future.
I have had my 2015 GL63 for about a month now with 1000 miles on the clock. My previous ride was a 2007 GL450 and I replaced all pads and rotors once after about 50,000 miles. Based on some of the posts on this forum, it sounds like the GL63 may go through brakes a lot quicker.
Any issues switching out of pad replacement mode? Also, did you use any brake paste on the new pads to prevent squeal?
Thanks for the informative write up. I like to do my own maintenance and this will be a great reference for me in the future.
I have had my 2015 GL63 for about a month now with 1000 miles on the clock. My previous ride was a 2007 GL450 and I replaced all pads and rotors once after about 50,000 miles. Based on some of the posts on this forum, it sounds like the GL63 may go through brakes a lot quicker.
Any issues switching out of pad replacement mode? Also, did you use any brake paste on the new pads to prevent squeal?
Thanks again for documenting your job.
you are welcome.
I have to say... the Brembo pads that are being used in the 2015 car seem to be significantly better in both smoking less and stopping better. If I had known that to be the case I would have not elected to have changed the pads on the 2015 with only 2K on them. Since I had already purchased the Porterfield replacements, I decided to use them.
My 2014 GL63 had 18K before MB took me out of it and replaced it with my 2015.... I suspect that they were ready to be replaced at that point. Most of my driving is city.
I use to have a 164 body GL550 and it required weird sized hex sockets to remove the two back bolts on the front calipers.
The rear calipers are probably he same as the non AMG but I don't know that for sure.
I just wanted to take away the mystique from the AMG brakes...(they look like a "big" Brembo kit too me)... To many people are getting nailed for very expensive brake jobs and it just isn't necessary.
Anyone can PM me directly and we can discuss over the phone.. (Please note though... I'm simply a do it yourself enthusiast who is pretty good with a wrench)
If you go OEM, this is generally the best pricing and customer service I've found (it's an actual MB dealership too with someone you can call and email): https://benzparts.autohausofpeoria.com/
if I remember correctly, you can access in the command a setting that will pull the parking brake piston out of the way.
You will have to google around for that.
Great post--thanks for taking the time to document and share! I'm really looking forward to NOT paying the dealer $3k (!) for new pads/rotors all around.
Question about the OEM parts. I see both Brembo and non-Brembo options for pads and rotors. I don't recall Brembo being an option when I ordered my '17 GLS63, and I'm confused because I thought I read somewhere that the AMG brakes are rebranded Brembos. Any idea what the deal is there?
Sorry to revive this, but what's the purpose of the round metals pieces on top of the front pads and the same for the trapezoidal metal shape on top of the rear pads?
Sorry to revive this, but what's the purpose of the round metals pieces on top of the front pads and the same for the trapezoidal metal shape on top of the rear pads?
they are probably some kind of weights to reduce harmonics if I was going to take a guess...
they are probably some kind of weights to reduce harmonics if I was going to take a guess...
Thank you for your response!
I noticed it, because when i recently worked on my SL63s and GL63s pads and they both have that metal bracket/pieces on the pads for both front and rears
Thanks, @cyclrer, for the great write-up. I just finished rotor/pad replacements for both front and rear on my 2017 GLS63. You mentioned that the front caliper body to steering knuckle bolts were a strange size. I stupidly did not measure or photograph these bolts when I had them out. I know that they required a 10mm hex key, and I believe that corresponds to a M12 bolt (socket head cap screw). But I don’t know the length or the material/treatment.
The MB maintenance procedure (AR42.10-P-0070GZ Remove/install front axle brake caliper; step 6.2) calls for replacement of these bolts. (Same for the rears, but the replacement bolts are included in most brake pad kits. Not so for the front pads.) If anyone knows the part number for these bolts, I’d appreciate the reference. I’ve had no luck searching MB online parts houses, as these bolts are not called out as separate items on the assembly diagrams.
FWIW, I got about 9K miles from the rears and 14K miles from the fronts; these were MB OEM parts because I purchased the vehicle as a CPO. I think the MB parts are ridiculously priced, so I went with Brembo pads in rear; ECS Red pads for the front; Zimmermann rotors front and rear.
I'm being quoted over $3k for all four replacement after 15k miles. I saw a Zimmerman brake kit on FCP for $650. Can anyone recommend this or another kit? What are you paying?
I'm being quoted over $3k for all four replacement after 15k miles. I saw a Zimmerman brake kit on FCP for $650. Can anyone recommend this or another kit? What are you paying?
That sounds right to what my dealer quoted.
Some comments:
1) if you order OEM parts and have them shipped to your door - don't. It's not worth the headache. They usually come damaged at least in my experience. The packaging is horrible. When the dealership gets them, they get shipped on a pallet usually, and are safe and not cracked.
2) Aftermarket rotors in my experience come expertly packaged and never arrived damaged.
3) I personally just end up going with OEM parts from the dealer and dealer installed due to the headache I've had.
4) The other option I would consider is buying aftermarket and bringing it to either the dealership or bringing to another mechanic. If bringing to another mechanic, print out the rear brake procedure due to the electronic parking brake and hand that to them in case they are not familiar with the GL63.
5) I still considering next time I need my rotors and pads changed for the front - to upgrade to the Brembo rotors/pads/caliper because that would be amazing=) Leaving stock rear since there is no kit for it.
2) Aftermarket rotors in my experience come expertly packaged and never arrived damaged.
In my experience it was exactly the opposite. Zimmerman rear rotors from FCP were poorly packaged, but inner single Zimmerman box stayed intact. Brembo front rotors from Brembo USA Store a.k.a Newparts, were really poorly packaged considering each rotor weight well over 40lbs. Inner dual Brembo packages were not intact. Rotors however appeared to be undamaged, however due to they weight, they should have been sent separately. However, OEM pads I bought on-line from different MB dealers, were all packaged really well with plenty of bubble wrap.
So today I tried to replace the rear pads as they are about 3mm thick now.
I put the car in pad replacement mode and heard the electronic brake go back.
Removed the old pads, put new ones in and the damn caliper will not slide over. The piston cannot be pushed further in right? I just need about 5mm pushed in more.
After you removed the old pads, did you use a pad spreader to push the piston in? The piston should go flush with the caliper body.
Other than putting the electronic parking brake into service mode, there is no other “trick” to servicing the brakes on these vehicles. It’s just the standard process.
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