Hi All...new to the forum...bought a 2019 GLC 300 and now I'm thinking I'd like to add a hitch for a bike rack.
Is it possible to add one to the car? It looks like e-trailer can do it but the install looks complicated - not sure I trust them to take apart the whole back end of my new Benz.
Stealth Hitch looks like a nice idea for those who feel the receiver coming out of the back is ugly or something...
I wanted one also and didnt want to take apart the whole back to have one installed - so I opted for the Factory hitch on my '19 Coupe custom order. Also - reports were that the foot activated tailgate sensor is lost when adding aftermarket hitch - but when the factory adds it - they relocate the sensor.
I call BS - since my foot has opened the hatch once in a year of owning it.
In a similar situation. I'm probably leaning towards the Draw-Tite as it sits higher than the Curt and is recessed a slight bit more. Stealth hitch looks nice but not sure it's worth the additional $$ for me.
In a similar situation. I'm probably leaning towards the Draw-Tite as it sits higher than the Curt and is recessed a slight bit more. Stealth hitch looks nice but not sure it's worth the additional $$ for me.
I had the Stealth hitch on the Outback I traded in on my new GLC. The price was way lower than what the GLC version goes for. Really well engineered and built, but tricky to install with rear facia removal, etc. I did it myself and regretted it immediately, with the sensors, etc. behind the bumper cover. The Mercedes has even more of them and I would not attempt it again. That's why I ordered mine with a factory hitch.
I had a Draw-Tite 76082 installed on my 2019 GLC300. I was concerned with how low the hitch would sit but happy with the installation. I can confirm that the tailgate foot gesture works fine after the installation. The Curt hitch requires the use of a stabilizer strap, which seemed an inconvenience to me.
Installing a hitch after the fact is painful enough, but if you aren't going to tow, at least you won't have the bigger pain of installing the trailer wiring.
I had a Draw-Tite 76082 installed on my 2019 GLC300. I was concerned with how low the hitch would sit but happy with the installation. I can confirm that the tailgate foot gesture works fine after the installation. The Curt hitch requires the use of a stabilizer strap, which seemed an inconvenience to me.
Good to hear the install was to your liking! Did you have to cut a piece of the bumper/bottom plastic cover thing?
Good to hear the install was to your liking! Did you have to cut a piece of the bumper/bottom plastic cover thing?
I had a shop that specializes in hitch installations do the work. They gave me the option to cut the plastic or leave it moulded/bent around the hitch. I chose to cut the plastic. Unless I look under the vehicle I cannot see where it was cut. Hope that helps.
I had a shop that specializes in hitch installations do the work. They gave me the option to cut the plastic or leave it moulded/bent around the hitch. I chose to cut the plastic. Unless I look under the vehicle I cannot see where it was cut. Hope that helps.
Hi Roy,
Think you can post some pics of the hitch? Thanks....
I don't think the Curt or Draw Tite is an OEM hitch. Those are after market. The OEM factory hitch comes out of the bumper.
IF it looks like Curt or Draw,
OE hitch looks like this
so it goes under impact bar or instead of it.
anyhow the process is the same with extra step to cut the hole in the bumper.
After I have Curt installed very little space left between bumper and impact bar.
I had my local body shop do it. The hitch install was routine for him.
if all you’re doing is using hitch shouldn’t be problem.
my issue is with the wiring harness. I will be pulling a small trailer.
Body shop won’t inst harness as fearful of screwing up vehicle electronics
I had my local body shop do it. The hitch install was routine for him.
if all you’re doing is using hitch shouldn’t be problem.
my issue is with the wiring harness. I will be pulling a small trailer.
Body shop won’t inst harness as fearful of screwing up vehicle electronics
The Curt Universal Modulator harness from Etrailer has to be spliced into the wiring but it worked perfectly for me with no need to update any electronics. I did run power direct from the battery to the modulator.
my car is a 2017 GLC 300 with Premium 2 sport styling.
I tried the Tekonsha modulator but it was NOT a direct fit as advertised. So it was sent back.
Alternatives to splicing into wiring harness? (2018 GLC-300 4matic SUV/Premium Pkg)
[re-energizing this thread]
...so I rolled the dice and against eTrailer's recommendation sourced a Tekonsha ZCI and I can 100% confirm it is not compatible with this vehicle. No bueno. Do not pass go, do not buy this module for this car (not their fault, their techs stated this but only after I bought it from UHaul in hopes it would work).
the ZCI module does actually go into learn mode and lights do light up and blink (erratically), but (like me) not very clear what exactly it learns....some things work, most things don't and so not safe for road use.
Anyone wanting a nice price on same please PM me. :-)
Will take me a few days to de-install - free (personal) delivery w/in 50 mi of 01460 or 02840...
That said, I did buy eTrailer's recommended wiring kit but it uses parallel splice connectors - just really, really, really worried about voiding warranty, esp if even ZCI doesn't work?!
This 2018 GLC-300 4Matic was recently purchased from local MBZ dealer as CPO & there is still ~1.5 yrs full warranty coverage that we can't risk voiding.
MBZ estimate for dealer kit install is north of $2k - too much for too many features I'll never need.
Have 3 trailers for fiberglass boats and utility trailers - never expecting total load to exceed 1200lbs and tongue weight expected to be well w/in tolerances for car braking needs and hitch ratings.
If car needs warranty service, the second they spot a trailer hitch they'll check for splices and game over - service mgr @ dealer that sold it to us just said essentially that (understandable).
A few posts in this thread state they did splice and no problems - unless this is the only solution am looking for any other way to activate the trailer features w/out cutting wires.
Only need running lights, left/right turn signal and brake lights - should not need any other extended braking/multi light support.
The 12V lead is directly wired to a spare terminal in the rear cargo area fuse box and 100% removable, so no irreversible/detectable mods so far.
Am almost ready to turn this into a Raspberry PI project using a remote control button panel and inertial sensor for braking and turning....seriously, there has to be a better way.
Anyone got ideas/sources/prior experiences w/ same vehicle/config ?
Thx in advance - please no mockery, ITYS's or h8rs - I already know I went out on a limb - punters will punt... :-)
These Posi-taps are a good way to tap into existing wiring without leaving damage after removal.
One small pin pierces the wire, leaving a tiny hole that is virtually self-healing.
There are several versions - butt connectors, splices, taps. Some are fully waterproof. They stay put, too. https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html
Here's my aftermarket hitch (Curt Class III 2") on my 2021 GLC 300 SUV. Just got it installed a few days ago. It took an experienced installer about 2.5 hours total. Overall, I'm happy with it. It's not stock, but doesn't look horrible to me. The lowest point is only slightly lower than the muffler so there's really no discernible ground clearance lost. The foot waving feature to open the lift gate still works (I was worried about that). Just have to wave your foot slightly to the left of the receiver. No big deal. No wiring needed for me. I'm using it mainly for bikes and cargo haulers, no trailers.
I have a 2018 GLC43 and had a Stealth hitch installed so that I can transport my Ebikes (on a Thule rack). Install completed by a specialist and I think it looks great. When not in use, I can remove the receiver so nothing is visible. I did not need electrical connections. I will remove the receiver for winter so exposure to salt should not be an issue (seems very easy to remove an install). The install took about 2-3 hours (basically removed the rear bumper facia but you cannot tell it was touched. Certainly not a DIY project from my perspective. The shop I used had done several GLC’s so knew what they were doing.
I had good luck with the installation of a Draw Tite Class 3 hitch, along with wiring. I used Master Hitch in Spring, TX for the installation-- they did a great job. No problems with back=up sensors, etc. Pictures attached.
It looks like it's only attached to that crumple cross-member. Is there other bracing somewhere?
I think it's not a good idea to put a Class III receiver on that - it should only be 1 1/2" at the most, otherwise somebody might put more than a couple hundred pounds on it, and that could be big trouble.
It looks like it's only attached to that crumple cross-member. Is there other bracing somewhere?
I think it's not a good idea to put a Class III receiver on that - it should only be 1 1/2" at the most, otherwise somebody might put more than a couple hundred pounds on it, and that could be big trouble.
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