Is there programming/coding or an adaptation that could fix this? I've had transmission and throttle reset and it definitely reduced the jolts when inching along in tight spots but it's still very reproducible at that 1-2mph range while braking and then letting off of the brake.

 

I didn't realize there was a Gen 1 or 2.
My '21 does none of the lurching or even a sensitive gas pedal. I easily edge / creep forward or back with my '21. I have to, because my garage is full, or I want park, or hitch a trailer. I do all those.

That's why I suggested there was something wrong with cars that lurch.

 

BTW, no issues in reverse. Probably because Auto start stop doesn't engage at all in reverse at least that I'm aware of.

Update: Auto start stop does not engage when in reverse, just tested.

 

It depends upon the state of charge of the battery. If the battery needs a charge then the engine won't shut off. Or it will restart when the battery reaches a certain point of charge.

I wouldn't think gear selection would matter.
It would be difficult to test if you couldn't verify a state of charge of the 48 volt battery.

 

I thought the same regarding the 48v battery so that's why I tested this by making sure Auto start stop engaged while in drive after putting on brake hold. I then did the same in reverse with brake hold and Auto start stop never engage. Repeated it while in drive and Auto start stop engaged just fine. I'll continue to see if I can get Auto start stop to engage in reverse but I really do think it's disabled.

So yesterday I was trying to repeat the issue and could only get the feeling once or twice while doing a 2hr roundtrip drive. The jolt(s) might have occurred around 3mph which is faster than the tight parking situations as before. My recent adaptation resets of the throttle and transmission must have changed the occurrence of it; the resets definitely reduced the occurrences of it. I'll have to keep testing to figure out exactly how to reproduce it now after these resets because prior to the resets it was very easy to reproduce.

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YES …My wife was parking my ‘21, GLE 580, it lurched forward and hit the neighbors townhouse!!!

 

I see the news headlines - "[Breaking news] Evil and unhinged Mercedes cars rolling around and attacking garages and townhouses. Beware of German engineering" /s

 

Sorry but was the lurch just a little bit or like many feet? My jolt/lurch is very small.

Drove the car just now with the foreman and it was easily reproducible at around 4mph we could see the Auto start stop green light engage and disengage and the jolt that came with it. Prior to the adaptation, this occurred at slow parking speeds like in my garage but now it happens at 4mph.

 

Why is auto start engaging at 4mph? Is the car rolling and you apply the break / release the brake when in happens? Where is your foot when it happens?

 

I'm slowing down to 4mph with brake (hitting the brake as if you're driving miss Daisy so super slow and smooth), let go of the brake, and then I think the software thinks it needs to coast so the auto start stop green light turns on. Very slight tap of gas and the green auto start stop turns off, and you get the start jolt. The feeling of the jolt is kind of like the feeling of when you would release the clutch on a manual without giving it enough gas, very slight jolt but still noticeable. Glad I was able to easily reproduce it with the foreman.

Prior to my adaptation reset of the throttle and transmission, my "jolts" would occur much more frequently in slower speeds of 1-2MPH (parking speeds). This has since disappeared with these resets so now I'm left with the jolt at 4mph which is much more manageable. Still not great but I can live with it.

 

I think I finally understand what you're describing. So, I do find it a bit unexpected and it does happen in some situations. The most common is when the car is coasting to a light that is red, the driver naturally applies the break pedal ever so slightly, auto start/stop engages and turns the engine off. Then, the light turns green, the car is still coasting 3-4mph and you start moving you foot to push the gas pedal, which immediately engages the start/stop and turns the engine on. In this very moment, for like a split second, I do feel the torque applied is ahead of me pushing the gas pedal and "feels" disproportional since you haven't even had a chance to press that gas pedal much. It's subtle / minor for me and likely "works as designed". It's also possible that the torque applied at that moment is higher on 580s than on 450s (which I have).

I don't know how it may affect any kind of parking situation though. When I roll in a tight space garage, I just let it coast at 1-2 mph, it's the torque that constantly gets applied when the car is in "D" gear. The engine stays on at all times. If I break to a stop and resume, no unexpected moves or acceleration happens. Same for parking lots, I can't easily imagine a "high speed -> coast -> break / gas / park" situation that could trigger the above.

 

I wonder how much the 450 vs 580 plays into this. I also tried to get our 580 to do it on demand and most times the stop/start was very mild/smooth only once would it be described as a jump/jolt. In my instance I was slowing for a four way stop waiting my turn driving very slowly. Stop/start engaged around 1mph going to 0, I released the brake, and the subsequent start caused a jump. Doesn't happen all the time, but does happen. The more I drive the vehicle the more I find myself turning off stop/start. I find myself in a lot of stop/go situations with our busy intersections and kid pickup/dropoff and even the smooth engagements of start stop are annoying every few seconds.

 

Yes sounds exactly the same experience so I'm not the only one and this could be considered "normal". I think we all have the same EQ boost so the jolt should feel the same unless the 580 is programmed differently.

Your experience also sounds similar. I can live with the jolt but since my warranty is about to expire, I just thought that I'd make sure this was normal or not. I have an extended 3rd party with Fidelity but I'd rather not pay any deductible and diagnostics and get it fixed now if it indeed was an issue.

Maybe if I drove like Ken Block.

 

It's somewhat the same, keep in mind that on MY2024 they moved it to the transmission (Gen 2). While it may not necessarily make much difference from the driver's perspective, the cars are different mechanically.

 

You're right I forgot you have MY24 and gen 2. Details of gen2 here:

Second-generation ISG and further-developed 9G-TRONIC
The second generation of the integrated starter-generator is being launched in the E-Class models. The electric machine is no longer part of the engine but instead the transmission. This makes it easier to combine the innovative technology with different engines. Accordingly, the 9G-TRONIC automatic transmission has been further developed and will initially be used in the four-cylinder engines. The electric motor, power electronics and transmission cooler have moved to the transmission. As a result, previously necessary cables have been dispensed with, resulting in installation space and weight advantages. The efficiency of the transmission also increases. Example: the improved interaction with the electric auxiliary oil pump reduces the delivery volume of the mechanical pump by 30%. Further contributions to increased efficiency are made by the new generation of fully integrated transmission control with a multicore processor and a new assembly and connection technology. Despite increased computing power, the number of electrical interfaces has been drastically reduced and the weight of the transmission control unit reduced by 30%.

 

Yeah, they tried to tell me it was normal for my 2022 GLE 350 the first time I took it in for that same issue. The second time I took it in for that issue I told them I reported the issue to the NHTSA, and reminded them of the Florida Lemon Law... they fixed it. Apparently they fixed it with a software update because it hasn't done it again. Good luck!

 

I believe that. It's certainly a logic issue. IMO they are too aggressive with the shutdown resulting in an immediate re-start. I've driven a number of GLE350 loaners before we got our 580 and they were even worse due to the traditional starter vs the ISG.

I noticed another variable today that might play a part. Comfort drive setting seems to idle around 500 RPM while sport bumps the idle up to around 800 RPM. I'll have to pay attention to what drive mode I'm in the next time I notice it.

 

Sport mode might be moot since auto start stop is disabled in that mode.

 

Not on ours.

 

Hmmm. Maybe I'm confusing it with Sport+. I never use Sport.

 

Use economy mode. The transmission never goes to 1st gear, always starts out in 2nd. Solves 90% of what you're experiencing.

 

Thanks. I've read your recommendation from another thread and tested it on my vehicle but it didn't have any difference; also 90% of my driving is in comfort as I prefer it over Eco unless I'm road tripping on the freeway for the added sailing.

 

No thank you. I can't stand the pedal response in Eco, I bought a TTV8 because I want it to move when I press the pedal. I think it also deactivates some of E-ABC's functionality to reduce the electrical load. I searched out a vehicle with E-ABC for the comfort. My solution is simply to press the stop/start button. It will likely get coded to remember its last setting in the future.

 

Yes E-ABC isn't enabled in eco, another reason why I use comfort most of the time too.

 

Here's a Lurch for you:

https://twitter.com/i/status/1329538653853462529