New to the MB club - need advice on price negotiation
I am looking at buying my very first MB - a GLE 450 AWD. I want it pretty much loaded with the available packages. I know that it is now month end, qtr end and year end. I know people negotiate a % off MSRP. What % off should I try to negotiate? Thanks to one and all who respond - this is not my forte and I detest confrontation…sigh…..😊
I also saw a $500 incentive for AAA members,
Last edited by cb804; Dec 19, 2025 at 12:34 PM.
Try www.visor.vin.
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I am looking at buying my very first MB - a GLE 450 AWD. I want it pretty much loaded with the available packages. I know that it is now month end, qtr end and year end. I know people negotiate a % off MSRP. What % off should I try to negotiate? Thanks to one and all who respond - this is not my forte and I detest confrontation…sigh…..😊
There is no one answer. It depends a lot on the economy, the dealer's situation, what is in stock, and management's willingness to negotiate. As example, at the end of 2007 I dearly wanted to buy an E class diesel, but it was list priced $75k, beyond my budget at the time. One day I went in to see what I could negotiate, and the car I had my eyes on that day had a huge factory discount because of the financial crisis... from one day to the next, they knocked of $25k on the car I wanted. An extraordinary situation. In 2024, I wanted to buy a GLE 450e. Spoke with many dealerships. Each had a different "personality". Found one that was "building" their customer base, and willing to deal. They had more flexibility to not only discount the car, but also discount pre-paid maintenance, remove dealer add-in's that I did not want. I even found that different dealers charged different amounts for dealer prep and delivery (which everyone claims is standard) so negotiated for the lowest of all the amounts. Also, ask for every available incentive available. Some times they have discount agreements with certain groups that you may belong to, like an alumni association, AAA, etc. The dealer was 45 minutes drive from home, which is not convenient for service, but they offered to pick up my GLE and leave me a loaner during service. That sealed the deal after we had already reach a price I liked. Just remember, everything is on the table. Winter mats? Make them a throw in after the price is already agreed. Winter Tires, get those discounted before the deal is set. Look at every single charge on the invoice, and if it is not of value to you, get it taken off.




Include everything you want, including any PPM, mats, ceramic coating, extended warranty, that pair of AMG gloves - EVERYTHING (make a list before you start).
That way you don't get caught in F&I (the Profit Center that accounts for 1/3 of a dealer's profits) for their final shot, because the General sales manager has stripped their margin, as well as any parts profit.
If you plan on trading something in, tell them that you have no trade, then focus (yourself and them) on the new car and maximize that deal.
THEN tell them you want to trade a car. (It's called Springing the Trade in the biz) and they'll have to show you the ACV (actual cash value) (different from Allowance, which is usually the ACV plus a bit of a discount that you've used up). So they have to play all their cards before you sign.
Expect the ACV to be a wholesale AKA "trade-in" price, which you've already researched at Edmunds, CarGurus or similar. Yes you can probably sell it privately for more, but remember that Sales Tax is calculated on the difference between the sales price and the trade (in most States), so the tax savings from trading may offset the difference between ACV and private sale.
Take their finance deal if you're not paying cash, since they can pare down the car deal farther if they expect some "Back End" (F&I) profits from their Lender Kickback. Then refinance with your lender (and rate) of choice. (You're pre-approved, right?) There might slso be a promotional low-percentage deal on offer, so you may not need to refinance in that first month.
It all revolves around the Out the Door negotiation.
"Springing the Trade" is optional, because it can be confrontational, but it does reveal all parts of the trade.
Finally, be a buyer. Pick your first choice dealership, and your first job is to convince them that You Will Buy TODAY if you can get together on price.
Don't bother asking them to "Shoot me your Best Deal and I'll consider it."
You are here to buy. Be willing to walk (rise from your seat and start).
If you haven't negotiated directly with the Sales Manager, there's probably money left on the table. Let him/her get in on the fun.
Have fun.
Be a buyer. Convince them of that.
Be reasonable, otherwise you're not a real Buyer and they'll sell your car to someone else.
Work on the Out The Door price.




Include everything you want, including any PPM, mats, ceramic coating, extended warranty, that pair of AMG gloves - EVERYTHING (make a list before you start).
That way you don't get caught in F&I (the Profit Center that accounts for 1/3 of a dealer's profits) for their final shot, because the General sales manager has stripped their margin, as well as any parts profit.
If you plan on trading something in, tell them that you have no trade, then focus (yourself and them) on the new car and maximize that deal.
THEN tell them you want to trade a car. (It's called Springing the Trade in the biz) and they'll have to show you the ACV (actual cash value) (different from Allowance, which is usually the ACV plus a bit of a discount that you've used up). So they have to play all their cards before you sign.
Expect the ACV to be a wholesale AKA "trade-in" price, which you've already researched at Edmunds, CarGurus or similar. Yes you can probably sell it privately for more, but remember that Sales Tax is calculated on the difference between the sales price and the trade (in most States), so the tax savings from trading may offset the difference between ACV and private sale.
Take their finance deal if you're not paying cash, since they can pare down the car deal farther if they expect some "Back End" (F&I) profits from their Lender Kickback. Then refinance with your lender (and rate) of choice. (You're pre-approved, right?) There might slso be a promotional low-percentage deal on offer, so you may not need to refinance in that first month.
It all revolves around the Out the Door negotiation.
"Springing the Trade" is optional, because it can be confrontational, but it does reveal all parts of the trade.
Finally, be a buyer. Pick your first choice dealership, and your first job is to convince them that You Will Buy TODAY if you can get together on price.
Don't bother asking them to "Shoot me your Best Deal and I'll consider it."
You are here to buy. Be willing to walk (rise from your seat and start).
If you haven't negotiated directly with the Sales Manager, there's probably money left on the table. Let him/her get in on the fun.
Have fun.
Be a buyer. Convince them of that.
Be reasonable, otherwise you're not a real Buyer and they'll sell your car to someone else.
Work on the Out The Door price.






