Blown tires for my GLE350 4Matic
1. Is it true that for 4Matic system that all four tires should be exactly the same or is this just a sales pitch?
2. If I could not find exact same tire as original tire ("Continental CrossContact LX Sport"), I could find some other tire of the same brand, size and speed rating such as "Continental CrossContact LX20" (http://www.continentaltire.com/produ...5550r19-107h/?), would there be any concern with using these tires?
3. Given that my car only have less than 5000 miles, would it be okay that I keep the 2 good tires, and just replace the two blown tires?






You don't mention if you tried to get replacement tires at your dealer or whether your inquired about road hazard coverage for the damaged tires. It may be worth checking if you haven't already. IMHO. Good luck. Hopefully your wheels were not damaged.
You don't mention if you tried to get replacement tires at your dealer or whether your inquired about road hazard coverage for the damaged tires. It may be worth checking if you haven't already. IMHO. Good luck. Hopefully your wheels were not damaged.
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG





https://media.daimler.com/marsMediaS...ml?oid=9904309
https://www.mbusa.com/en/best-or-nothing/4MATIC
The articles above give the impression that the W166 4MATIC system uses three open differentials. This means there is no torque transfer, due to the driveline mechanical components, when a wheel speed difference is present. So, strictly speaking, 4MATIC on the W166 is insensitive to tire diameter and resulting wheel speed difference.
ABS, ESP and TCS are different animals, and can detect small differences in wheel speed. How the software reacts/doesn't react, and whether or not error codes are displayed, or not, needs someone with first hand experience to weigh in.
Last edited by chassis; Jan 31, 2020 at 10:25 PM.
I also recommend over inflating to 45psi cold. This evens the wear across the tire width.




I have a 2015 ML350 which is almost the same as your car. I got over 41,000 miles on the original tires. I rotate them every 5000 miles ( twice between service) and always run 36 psi. I don't rely on the TPMS totally and try to manually check the pressure especially when it has turns cold. I also do not have them balanced just rotated. (IF there is no shimmy (out of balance) before you rotate them , then there shouldn't be one after they are rotated.
When I rotate the tires I do the cross rotation (even though Mercedes manual says not too, They also reference the tire manufacturer) Since the Mercedes is a rear wheel based 4 wheel drive system I do not used the same side method which is recommended for front wheel drive SUVs like Honda, Acura, Lexus, Toyota, Nissan).
The idea that you can't cross rotate radials is an old hold over from when they first came out . ( but YOU CANT CROSS ROTATE DIRECTIONAL TIRES THOUGH.) Also I think because I rotate them every 5,ooo miles solves the issue of tread belts getting set in one direction.
And for what its worth, my ML has over 60,000 and never had the front end aligned. I will do it when I see
I really think there is no hard and fast rule on how to rotate., but frequent rotation is a plus. Also every time you rotate, you get a good look at the tire wear.
See link to michelin below
https://www.michelinman.com/tireRotation.html
Im in south T.X and due to the heat, I always worry about my tires heating up too much and expanding too much, could lead to blown tires. Is 45psi not too much? Mine are usually at 33psi and go up to 38psi when on the road.
I have a 2015 ML350 which is almost the same as your car. I got over 41,000 miles on the original tires. I rotate them every 5000 miles ( twice between service) and always run 36 psi. I don't rely on the TPMS totally and try to manually check the pressure especially when it has turns cold. I also do not have them balanced just rotated. (IF there is no shimmy (out of balance) before you rotate them , then there shouldn't be one after they are rotated.
When I rotate the tires I do the cross rotation (even though Mercedes manual says not too, They also reference the tire manufacturer) Since the Mercedes is a rear wheel based 4 wheel drive system I do not used the same side method which is recommended for front wheel drive SUVs like Honda, Acura, Lexus, Toyota, Nissan).
The idea that you can't cross rotate radials is an old hold over from when they first came out . ( but YOU CANT CROSS ROTATE DIRECTIONAL TIRES THOUGH.) Also I think because I rotate them every 5,ooo miles solves the issue of tread belts getting set in one direction.
And for what its worth, my ML has over 60,000 and never had the front end aligned. I will do it when I see
I really think there is no hard and fast rule on how to rotate., but frequent rotation is a plus. Also every time you rotate, you get a good look at the tire wear.
See link to michelin below
https://www.michelinman.com/tireRotation.html
My alignment was bad at rear axle. Accosting to job sheet.
W166 models there is only Toe “directional” adjustment OEM.
No front Camber or Caster to adjust tire contact angles, spread load more evenly to resolve costly, premature edge wear with
excess edge load/higher impact also leading to ruptured side walls.
Fast fit on vehicle without need for arm removal (bush extraction tool supplied)
There Is Camber adjustment on the rear, but many find insufficient.
Especially when other than “showroom height” conditions - day to day
commuting high cambered roads, wheel squat through load carrying or lowering, fitting wide profile tires, curb knocks etc…
We saw the need to design, manufacture a rear kit to double the existing adjustment range of Camber and Toe.
Simply replacing the 4 rear lower arm, highest wearing bushings. Fit without arm removal
(bush extraction tool supplied) P/N 504026 K $480
For the front (Camber and Caster) and 3 options:
P/N 504016-2J $380 (both sides)
This kit simply replaces the 4 “upper arm” inner bushings. Precise adjustment up to 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative.
More than enough to resolve premature tire wear issues .
P/N 504016 N $595. (Both sides)
This kit also replaces the 4 front “lower arm” bushings at the same time. Especially the 2 rear bushes which are subject
to premature failure and expensive for OEM replacements. Provides 2 degrees Positive or Negative
adjustment. Fit without arm removal (bush extraction tool supplied).
P/N 504016-1N $695 (Both sides)
Same as above but extra adjustment for example if vehicle is lowered to improve stability. Up to 2.75 degrees Positive or Negative extra Camber.
Delivery $40 one kit. $60. Front and Rear.
Last edited by K-Mac; Mar 3, 2020 at 04:53 PM.
Roni07, dealers don’t rotate tires because the manufacturer does not specify it. You as the educated consumer need to specifically add this to the list of work to be performed when you come in for an oil change. This is what I do.
BMW dealers are the same way. My experience is that even when it is requested they don’t do the work, because “it wasn’t needed.”
Roni07, dealers don’t rotate tires because the manufacturer does not specify it. You as the educated consumer need to specifically add this to the list of work to be performed when you come in for an oil change. This is what I do.
BMW dealers are the same way. My experience is that even when it is requested they don’t do the work, because “it wasn’t needed.”
if I’m paying you A-$300 or B-$600 for service , you’d better do it. Because that’s what happened to me, my tires ripped along the inside wall, as the person explained it above, it’s common for 4-Matic system. I’m tired of hearing excuses about anything, I’m paying lots of money to have my vehicle maintained by the dealer . It’s called preventive. Otherwise you’ll end up with what I had, ripped tires. I blame the dealer for that. They are the ones looking under the vehicle checking things out. I can’t see that. If I could . I wouldn’t be paying you $300 to look. The issue is pure laziness, we hear it everyday oh so and so didn’t do a good job because he’s only laid minimum wage or not enough wage. Enough. Either do a good job or don’t bother doing it.
that’s why we are in this predicament with low MB quality vehicles (same goes for BMW). I know from experience living in EU MB and BMW were absolutely impeccable built vehicless in Germany by Germans. Never heard of issues or problems. They have such a good reputation for commitment to quality. What do we have nowadays, vehicles built everywhere, no quality control, shoddy workmanship and lots of $$!for maintenance and repair and all we hear is excuses excuses excuses. Next time the dealer does a shoddy work, I will be paying only a percentage of my bill according to what was done ✅ right.






