1. Wash your own car or take it to the car wash (hand washed)?

2. Do you use cleaning products purchased from Mercedes or local auto store is okay for exterior (tires, plastic parts) and interior (seats, dash, instrument panels...etc.)

 

Absolutely NEVER! I've seen automatic car washes scratch the finish, rip the shark fin antenna off, scratch wheels, etc. Plus, they use harsh detergents that strip the finish of wax, sealants, etc. A good car wash should be pH balanced.

Most professional auto detailing products can not be purchased from your local auto store. They're only sold direct from the manufacturer or online. These are the products you'll find in professional detailing shops. I use these and highly recommend them all.


For a full blown car wash:





When a full wash (water hose) isn't necessary:



Protects and seals the paint finish after washing. Excellent on plastic and rubber trim too.

 

Hi,

I have GLE 2016 4 door. The user manual says never to do touch free wash as it is harmful.


I have been doing touch free wash but I limit it to around 2 to 3 washes a month even though I have unlimited car wash package.

Is it ok for me to continue the touch free wash or will i run into any color fading or plastic losing polish issues

Any idea

 

From the manual:

"Never clean your vehicle in a Touchless Automatic Car Wash as these use special cleaning agents. These cleaning agents can damage the paintwork or plastic parts."

The powerful chemicals they use are the reason they don't need brushes. There are a host of other cautions about automatic car washes as well, such as the width of the guide rails, height of your sidewalls, DISTRONIC PLUS, side mirrors, shark fin antennas, windshield wipers, etc.

I very rarely need a full-blown car wash. I use a California Car Duster daily. The cotton fibers are saturated with paraffin wax to trap dust/dirt and lift it off without scratching. It takes about a minute to do the whole car. Go to any custom car show and you'll see collectors using these on million dollar vehicles. As long as it doesn't get rained on, I can go months without needing a car wash.

After a rain, I wipe it down with The Absorber or an "edgeless" microfiber cloth before it dries. I've been using The Absorber for over 30 years. It's lint free, machine washable and soft as butter. Light surface dirt can be cleaned using the Optimum No-Rinse Car Wash mentioned in my previous post. It contains lubricating polymers that bond to paint. The dirt is then released, sliding it across a smooth finish, protecting it from scratches.

I realize not everyone has the time to devote to pampering their vehicle. The secret to keeping your car clean is to clean it "before" it gets really dirty. Then, it only takes a few minutes.

All of the products below can be purchased in the automotive section at Walmart, except maybe the edgeless microfiber clothes. I know they have regular microfiber clothes, but they're not as soft as the ones below. They also have stitching on the edges, which can cause scratches. If you own a black or dark colored vehicle, it's imperative that you use "scratch free" products on its surface.

 

First let me say, I am an old guy and in my prime I would never put my car into an automatic car wash, always used Carnuba natural wax, etc. Time and kids/grandkids, and bad back have changed my priorities.

1) I only go to car washes that have the towels hanging from the ceiling , never one that has the twirling brushes.
2) I always keep my car waxed. At least twice a year. I use a clay bar and then some of the newer type waxes, used to insist on Carnuba, but now go for the something like Meguairs NXT Tech wax.
3) Sometimes, between car washes I will use Meguairs Quik Detailer.


My ML350 is also a light color (white) so it doesn't show the fine scratches that come from continuous use of auto car washes.

Last WARNING - you guys will be there some day. Ha!

 

MB TEX seats, says don't use microfiber towels to wipe them down, what do you recommend using, just a cotton towel? And, what type of conditioner do you use on them?


Thank you!

 

LOL! I don't know if I consider myself "old" yet, but I'm on the north side of the downhill slide.

This is very sage advice! Everyone gets there someday.

I typically only go to "automatic" carwashes that have the wands, and do not go to the ones that have towels...

 

Seriously? It says not to use microfiber towels to wipe down MB-tex seats? I can't imagine the reasoning behind this as you won't find a softer towel to wipe down the inside.

 

The only reason I can think of for them saying don't use microfiber clothes is because of the lint. When they're new, they can leave lint behind. A simple initial wash solves that problem. I use these on the body:




And these to apply leather conditioner to the seats:

 

the car wash will induce many more scratches then any home wash ever will. The car washes don’t regularly clean the wash media, beater bars, soft touch shammies, what ever they have in the tunnel. All the dirt from the previous cars are stuck on those finger things and dragged all over your paint. The touch free car washes use harsh chemicals to remove the dirt but they also strip any wax or sealant on the car, can discolor moldings, especially around the doors. Best to do it your self and get a better method so you don’t scratch the car. Two bucket wash system, foam gun erc

 

New to the forum .... any forum actually so don’t know how exactly this works, but which leather conditioner do you use? I just purchased a Polar White 2021 GLE 350 SUV with the AMG trim, wheels, and night package that is a huge investment I want to last. My previous vehicle was a black Tahoe and hated swirl marks from car washes that I did it all by hand and buffer. Now this 350 has the new “ceramic” coat I want to last as long as possible. Any cleaning tips for interior/exterior would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance




And these to apply leather conditioner to the seats:

[/QUOTE]

 

1) Wash my own car. Today I washed, clayed, polished, waxed it. Car washes are awful.

2) I use products that are reputable and well known and you get the best deals online so I usually buy online. I keep it simple= Meguiars gold class car wash is good and priced well so that's my car soap. M105/m205 for polishing/compounding. Generic brand clay bar. I buy quick detailer in gallon jugs and move into smaller containers for use to maximize value. Collinite for wax/sealant is great, and cheap. Rupes polisher for corrections and applying wax. Nothing too crazy.

 

For your leather, i recommend keeping it simple. You won't need a leather cleaner or conditioner very often, only when things get very dirty.(once a year or more). A multipurpose interior cleaner and a microfiber cloth will do great, and works well on the interior of my GLE350, even the leather. I use Griot's Garage Interior Cleaner, which you can get from Griots, Amazon or Pep Boys. There are similar products from Meguire's, Poor Boys, Chemical Guys and Autogeek.net brands (DP, Pinnacle, Wolfgang, Blackfire). I would stay away from Lexol, as it is frustrating to use, and generally ineffective.

If your leather looks dirty, or perhaps needs an annual conditioning, the gold standard are products from Leatherique. From there, the above brands all make reasonable products. Again I recommend staying away from Lexol, but the conditioner isn't bad.

If your vehicle has been ceramic treated, you can ask what product was used, and purchase the companion products for washing and preserving the ceramic treatment. These you can find on Autogeek.net or Amazon. For example if your car was treated with CarPro CQuartz, they sell a product called CQuartz Reload for a light spray after a wash. It's not strictly necessary, but will allow your current treatment to last longer before needing to be redone.

For any car, you should hand wash: follow the 2 bucket method (one bucket for soap, one for rinsing the sponge or towel before putting back in the soap), use a grit guard in your bucket, and towel dry. Rule of thumb is to not touch a painted surface that you do not wet first, so if you want to touch up a spot, use a Detailer spray, which has lubricants to keep from scratching paint. If you get really into it, look into purchasing a random orbit polisher and detail the car yourself. I recommend visiting the forums on Autogeek.net for a while to learn from others or check out many Youtube videos.

As mentioned, there are hundreds of brands of products, and there is no problem buying the 'pro' products online. Your local Autozone will have the basic Meguire's and Mother's but there are much better options out there. But if you go to your Autozone, I recommend Meguire's Gold car wash, and the Ultimate line from Meguire's, including the Liguid Wax. For windows, inside and out, I recommend Stoners Invisible Glass (aerosol can). Griot's makes good stuff too, especially the Interior Cleaner, and their wheel cleaner products are reasonably priced (vs Sonax for instance).

Good luck, and there is nothing like admiring your shiny, scratch-free, clean car!

 

I've been washing and detailing cars for 40 years... newer cars have different clear coat characteristics...

rule #1 unless you know what you're doing, do not attempt to clay bar your vehicle... practice on an old beater car first, several times...

rule #2 use two bucket method, use a foam gun and try to avoid excess rubbing of paint.

rule #3 don't use pressure washer or jet spray to "preclean" or rinse car

rule #4 use deionized water to rinse if you can

rule #5 don't use a towel or chamois, ever, to dry car... use a blower

rule #6. use new spray on coatings after paint prep, corrections... the new products make waxes obsolete

 

I wash it at home using that Mr. Clean Auto Dry Car Wash Spray System with built in soap dispenser and water filter (yes, you can still find on eBay). I soap everything down (excluding glass), then use a combo sponge with micro fiber, hose down then spray mist using the de-ionized sprayer. Use window wipes for all glass and mirrors. Bottom line: Excellent results. Touch up with trim gel and tire shine. Better results than car wash and detailer!

 

I've hand washed my car since a teenager, and will continue to do so as I find it extremely relaxing. That being said, I only use Chemical Guys products with the exception for plastics. For plastics, I use 303. Car looks amazing after ever wash/detail.

 

With work and the family, I simply do not have the luxury of washing my car by hand anymore. I go to Kaady Car wash which says this on their website: "Some car washes, including self-described “touchless” facilities, use harsh detergents or dangerous acids. In fact, the so-called touchless process can remove road grime only by using these substances in conjunction with jet blasts of high-pressure water. This process can strip away a molecular layer from paint and wheels with each wash, and even etch the surface of glass.

That's why Kaady has designed our own state-of-the-art equipment, and developed our own non-acidic, non-corrosive, non-caustic shampoos and cleaning agents, which we manufacture to the highest standards in a separate division of our company."

Used this place for the last couple years, with no problems. I also apply a coat of Maguire's wax.

 

Usually I take to the car wash (It runs on wheel track belt system) The other day I washed it by hand, clay bar the front end and even waxed it (I may finish it up this weekend).

The products I use is left over Meguiar's. I use to have full sponsorship. I also use Klasse all-in-one as well.

 

I usually take it to car wash. And the thing I care that how much water does a car wash use.

 

...
Don't know why it double posted.

 

I still wash all my vehicles by hand. The key is to get the cars prepped properly, such as a good coating. My GLE, Aston martin and Z4, I have ceramic coating and the washing takes about 30 minutes for the two cars and about 45 minutes for the GLE.

I use a foam gun, two bucket method and each vehicle takes about 50 gallons to wash and rinse. The dirt practically slides right off the finish...quick final SIO2 spray on finish, blow dry and final wipe with a Waffle MF towel.

For me its rather cathartic. I pop open the engine compartment and slide a plastic mirror under the car to see how the underside looks...

I usually wash the GLE monthly and the other two when needed since they are weekend cars that I susally do not drive in the rain/

I have a Volvo XC60 as a work vehicle and have a monthly "all you can use" service at the local automatic car wash... It cleans the vehicle adequately but is very harsh on the finish with heavy swirls and very little finish protection for the "premium hot wax" that is supposedly applied in the 1:30 seconds it takes to go thru.

 

I prefer washing my SL550 by hand, and, as others have stated, I find it relaxing. When I don't have the time to do it I'll go through the car wash but always buy the cheapest wash and try to keep it to just soap and water. Car has 15,000 miles on it. I just had a detailer come look at it and quote me on correction/ceramic application and he says it doesn't need it yet. Car is mocha black, almost a dark bronze. Not sure what good this info is but wanted to add another data point. Cheers.

 

IMO you may want to rethink the 'coating application...' While your car may not need paint correction yet (and that's usually the most time consuming and expensive part...) a good ceramic coating can really help extend the finish