Agree (Re-flash the ECU/PCM).

 

What’s the best way to get the harness off, I see the white clip on the backside of the harness and flipped it up but was unable to pull it up, I don’t want to break anything so I didn’t go further. What’s the best way to get this off.

 

The clip that slides off the connector has a white small sliding piece on top of it, you slide that white piece back/away a bit (about 1 to 2 mm) with your finger nail and when it is slid out you press down (not up) on it and then pull the connector off.

 

Just to contribute on this thread, I have 2016 gle400 and I have been doing as Chassis suggested. In normal cases where I don't need the power I just push the pedal until the car moves but when in the highway I do a fast push to the pedal and it deliver the needed power directly. I like the sound of the engine at that moment

 

Re Lag frustration. I have had my ML63 for 8 years and got used to the terrible lag. last time i changed the battery 7 years ago I kept power to the car while i changed the battery, fearing the memory would be lost. i have now replaced the battery again, but this time without power to the car, having read Forum suggesting it wasn't required (and without any issues at all). With new battery fitted OMG the flat spot seams mostly gone (or is this a placebo effect?) so my advice to those with the flat spot, disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes and see if there is any improvement.

 

I did not read the entire thread. Bi-turbo GLE. Are you getting delayed on the transmission or low to zero boost?

Did you check to see your Boost controller, turbo control valve and boost pressure sensor is working?

You can't stump on the throttle (WOT) The bi-turbo won't spool up. You need to ease on the throttle to create boost pressure.

Unless you are in drive and got your foot on the brake and the gas pedal press to build boost pressure. This is how boosted A/T vehicles drag racing

 

"Lag" on modern cars, notably German brands, is not related to turbo performance.

Pedal velocity and position are interpreted by the ECU(s) and transmission output torque and speed are the outputs.

Nothing can be said about "lag" without plotting simultaneous data values:
- pedal position
- throttle plate(s) position
- spark advance
- fuel mass flow
- cam phase advance/retard
- boost solenoid status
- manifold absolute pressure
- lockup clutch status
- transmission current gear

By plotting these simultaneous values, "lag" can be pinpointed. The root cause is software programming by the car company, not physical characteristics of the turbochargers. Furthermore, it will be seen that "lag" is situation dependent and not constant.

 

I know I'm bringing up a zombie, but I found this thread while trying to look up information about GLE400s as a potential car for my mother. I have had a tuned W212 E400 for 7 years. It had a JB4 for the last 6.5 and I just put a eurocharged tune on it a few months ago. I have the exact same "lag" problem in my E400 that everyone describes here. The issue with the W212, and maybe other models, is that the only two transmission modes are "E" (maybe C, can't remember) and "S". In the Economy/Comfort mode, the throttle response and transmission are too lazy. In S mode, it's way too aggressive. There doesn't seem to be a happy middle ground. I was wondering if that behavior was changed with the 9 speed, but it sounds like it's not.

An interesting thing to note.. my Mother currently has a FL W212 E350, her second actually, The transmission starts by default in 1st gear in even the regular comfort mode and seems to be properly tuned for the NA M276's power band. I figured the 1st gear start was to make the NA feel peppier, and it absolutely does at low speeds than my E400. The Japanese have long since geared their low powered engines to feel extremely peppy from 0-30 at the expense of top end acceleration,