GLE Class (W166) Produced 2015-2019

Loose Trunk Seal or Water Entry through Trunk

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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 12:34 PM
  #1  
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GLE 350
Loose Trunk Seal or Water Entry through Trunk


Had this issue with my 2016 Mecerdes GLE 350. It was raining for a few days. I started up the truck fine. Drove to the gas station. Pumped gas drove 20 ft and the truck stalled. I had to tow it home. My mechanic checked it out.

Informed me that water gets in through the trunk and shorted out a fuel pump module. Now Mercedez doesn’t have a recall on this vehicle but it does have a Technical Service Bulletin on how to repair the issue. So they are aware in occurs.


At this point they want me to pay out of pocket for repairs but shouldn’t this be a manufacturer defect? Shouldn’t they cover the cost. Vehicle is at 63,000 miles out of the 50k warranty.

what do you guys think? The Trunk seal is not loose at all.


Last edited by Jose D Jimenez; Jan 9, 2020 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 06:52 PM
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I just had this EXACT same experience - and I'm wondering, how in the world this could occur. The cost to repair is around $1500 and listening to the explanation it sounds like you can just "bump" the seal and then water can pour in and ruin this fuel pump module.

I barely use my trunk, I can't fathom how this could happen without some kind of major defect.

OP: What happened with your situation?
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 07:17 PM
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Mercedes Benz did not help.

Originally Posted by Jonathan Sasse
I just had this EXACT same experience - and I'm wondering, how in the world this could occur. The cost to repair is around $1500 and listening to the explanation it sounds like you can just "bump" the seal and then water can pour in and ruin this fuel pump module.

I barely use my trunk, I can't fathom how this could happen without some kind of major defect.

OP: What happened with your situation?

Mercedes Benz is aware of the defect of these vehicles 🚗. They have a a service bulletin out on how to repair the issue. BUT !!! It is not a recall yet so your out of luck. You have to pay out of pocket for the repair. You can file a complaint with consumer protection government offices.. if the number of cases increase it could help the recall become reality.

what I did to remedy the situation I took the plastic cover out opposite of the button where one closes the trunk. The same size and dimensions as the trunk lock button... and after any car wash or rainfall.. I will open the trunk door and drain the water out from the door.

surprisingly the trunk door acts like a water tank and fills up pretty nicely... Till it’s starts pouring into the spare tire compartment.

by taking the plastic out and draining the water out I think 90% of the chances of it occurring again.
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 01:04 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by JosedJimenez
Mercedes Benz is aware of the defect of these vehicles 🚗. They have a a service bulletin out on how to repair the issue. BUT !!! It is not a recall yet so your out of luck. You have to pay out of pocket for the repair. You can file a complaint with consumer protection government offices.. if the number of cases increase it could help the recall become reality.

what I did to remedy the situation I took the plastic cover out opposite of the button where one closes the trunk. The same size and dimensions as the trunk lock button... and after any car wash or rainfall.. I will open the trunk door and drain the water out from the door.

surprisingly the trunk door acts like a water tank and fills up pretty nicely... Till it’s starts pouring into the spare tire compartment.

by taking the plastic out and draining the water out I think 90% of the chances of it occurring again.
Thank you. This failure condition is extremely dangerous, it feels like class action material if they cannot provide a remedy that actually fixes the problem. The sensor that shorts is plainly exposed and combined with the design flaw allowing water to enter, the condition is there constantly for the part to short, blow the fuse and disable the vehicle while driving.

Luckily, when this happened to my wife today she was able to get safely off the road, but only a mile earlier was on the freeway going over a bridge at high speed where the results could have been catastrophic.

Mercedes needs to recall this vehicle and actually FIX the problem, not just replace the failed parts. Outrageous.

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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 10:41 AM
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This is interesting. The X/W164 platform has well documented taillamp gasket leaks, leading to water damaging the rear SAM. Is the water entering through the taillamps?

How does water enter the liftgate? What is the leak path?

@pmercury @konigstiger @Maj. Dundee Are there any sources for TSB documents? LI88.50-P-069683 Version 1

Last edited by chassis; Jan 10, 2021 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 01:00 PM
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replace trunk gasket
+ check rear gaskets rear lights

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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
This is interesting. The X/W164 platform has well documented taillamp gasket leaks, leading to water damaging the rear SAM. Is the water entering through the taillamps?

How does water enter the liftgate? What is the leak path?

@pmercury @konigstiger @Maj. Dundee Are there any sources for TSB documents? LI88.50-P-069683 Version 1
I've got the dealership doing a leak/water test today to see how in the world this water is getting into the trunk. It's not how they think.
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Old Jan 12, 2021 | 08:15 AM
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I have a MB account and can access TBS (tips), Vedok ect
so if you need any TBS search always post or PM vin
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Old Jan 12, 2021 | 10:54 PM
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I looked at my trunk seal and it appears to be intact and secure. One thing I don't like is there is a mold line, or joint, in the center of the gasket near the latch striker. The joint line in the gasket seems like it could be a weak point and either tear, or wear over time and allow water intrusion.

Another thing I don't like about the design is the gasket is in harm's way of cargo being dragged across the rear threshold, offering the possibly for damage and resulting water intrusion.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 07:51 PM
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3/1/2021 GLE350 , 67K miles - exact same thing described above - this has been a real helpful post! I am getting with the dealer service manager in the morning -
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 10:05 PM
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Folks, what exactly is the root cause here? Is the seal becoming detached? Are the two seal bulbs separating? The photos posted so far do not show the root cause in sufficient detail.

I have been watching this on my 2017 GLE 350 and I can't envision how this would fail. Maybe there was a design change at some stage. Please explain this in detail. Thanks!
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 04:23 PM
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Hey guys, I have just experienced the same issue you all are writing about. I have a 2016 GLE 350. Vehicle stalled in traffic and could not restart. Towed to the dealer. Found it was the fuel pump control unit. This had gotten wet due to leakage from the rear trunk seal. They replaced this after allowing everything inside the wheel well where the spare tire is kept to dry out. Also replaced the fuel pump controller. Cost $1106.00 but after complaining to MB Corp. they brought the price down to $300.00. Unfortunately I believe the repair is poor. The seal where it connects to itself on the bottom is glued together and I am uncertain how long this will last. Not happy. Am bringing it back to them for another look at this seal because it looks like it would easily open up again if I dragged by grocery bags across it. Do I need to check my wheel well for water before every drive? Please let me know if you all have further insight to this issue. Thank you.
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by myc52k
Hey guys, I have just experienced the same issue you all are writing about. I have a 2016 GLE 350. Vehicle stalled in traffic and could not restart. Towed to the dealer. Found it was the fuel pump control unit. This had gotten wet due to leakage from the rear trunk seal. They replaced this after allowing everything inside the wheel well where the spare tire is kept to dry out. Also replaced the fuel pump controller. Cost $1106.00 but after complaining to MB Corp. they brought the price down to $300.00. Unfortunately I believe the repair is poor. The seal where it connects to itself on the bottom is glued together and I am uncertain how long this will last. Not happy. Am bringing it back to them for another look at this seal because it looks like it would easily open up again if I dragged by grocery bags across it. Do I need to check my wheel well for water before every drive? Please let me know if you all have further insight to this issue. Thank you.
@myc52k sorry to hear about the situation. Do you have a photo of the seal before it was replaced? I am still not clear on how this fails. Is the original 2016 seal not joined together, but rather butted or overlapped? The 2017 seal is butt-welded rubber. It isn't the best design, but so far after 62k miles and 4 years it is holding up.

Looking at EPC, liftgate seal part number A1667400178 appears to have no revision history, therefore no part changes have been made for the GLE model, or possibly for W166. The seal is one continuous piece surrounding the liftgate opening. It looks like it was two sealing bulbs.

Where/how exactly does it fail? Can someone please post a clear photo showing the seal failure? The photos in post #6 don't fully give the idea of root cause. I'm not envisioning the root cause here. It seems like the seal is slipping off of its mounting flange, and not tearing or coming apart. Is this correct?

Last edited by chassis; Mar 24, 2021 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 09:48 PM
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Pictures

Originally Posted by chassis
@myc52k sorry to hear about the situation. Do you have a photo of the seal before it was replaced? I am still not clear on how this fails. Is the original 2016 seal not joined together, but rather butted or overlapped? The 2017 seal is butt-welded rubber. It isn't the best design, but so far after 62k miles and 4 years it is holding up.

Looking at EPC, liftgate seal part number A1667400178 appears to have no revision history, therefore no part changes have been made for the GLE model, or possibly for W166. The seal is one continuous piece surrounding the liftgate opening. It looks like it was two sealing bulbs.

Where/how exactly does it fail? Can someone please post a clear photo showing the seal failure? The photos in post #6 don't fully give the idea of root cause. I'm not envisioning the root cause here. It seems like the seal is slipping off of its mounting flange, and not tearing or coming apart. Is this correct?

This is the seal that failed.

Another picture of seal that failed.

This is the new seal, with the joint at the lower part of the rear door.
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Old Mar 24, 2021 | 09:51 PM
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Let me know what you think?
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by myc52k
Let me know what you think?
Thanks @myc52k Did the seal split at the joint? Something to keep an eye on.
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 08:11 AM
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Yes that is what I am showing in the first two pics. The new seal unfortunately is joined in the same fashion at the lowest point on the door. I tried to get them to do it differently but they claim that was against policy. The loaner vehicle, which was a GLC 300, had the joint on the upper portion of the right side of the door opening. This location would likely have less chance of trauma from grocery bags, suitcases, dogs and bikes. You can’t expect to do the same thing and have a different result!
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by myc52k
Yes that is what I am showing in the first two pics. The new seal unfortunately is joined in the same fashion at the lowest point on the door. I tried to get them to do it differently but they claim that was against policy. The loaner vehicle, which was a GLC 300, had the joint on the upper portion of the right side of the door opening. This location would likely have less chance of trauma from grocery bags, suitcases, dogs and bikes. You can’t expect to do the same thing and have a different result!
Agree with you or idea to turn the seal in a different orientation. Is it molded into shape, or is it easily moved into a different position?

Having the weak link (the seal joint) at the top may be risky as the water exposure would be highest at the top. Mechanical damage/abrasion is worst at the bottom. Not a good design and the fixes seem limited.
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 08:53 AM
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It looks very flexible to me but I could be wrong. Agree that the best place would be at the side. I looked at my friend’s Toyota SUV and his seal is one piece with no joint at all that we could see. Seems like a better solution.
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 10:31 AM
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Thinking more about it, I think the seal joint at the bottom is the best place to put a potential weak link. There is no "best" in this case, other than having no joint at all, and having the seal recessed so it is not exposed to scraping of suitcases, pets, etc.

An idea could be something like a bicycle inner tube repair patch. The repair patch could be installed preemptively over the seal joint, to increase its strength.
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 01:47 PM
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Not sure why you would want the weak link at the bottom where it is close to the spare wheel well? This is where the water from the top and sides is directed and would accumulate before going through the defect. If the joint was on the side the water very likely would bypass the defect and take the path of least resistance due to gravity around it. There would be no pooling of water on the side to accumulate at the defect site. Just my theory.
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Old Mar 26, 2021 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by myc52k
Not sure why you would want the weak link at the bottom where it is close to the spare wheel well? This is where the water from the top and sides is directed and would accumulate before going through the defect. If the joint was on the side the water very likely would bypass the defect and take the path of least resistance due to gravity around it. There would be no pooling of water on the side to accumulate at the defect site. Just my theory.
In the ideal case I wouldn’t want a weak link but rather a seal with no joint. Water sheds down the entire perimeter of the seal, starting from the top and running down along the sides. Think of water shedding off a roof and running into the downspouts.

The joint on the side will always 100% be in the water shedding path. The joint at the bottom may rarely be in the water path, but is always in the path of mechanical damage from cargo. It’s a bad design.
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Old Mar 27, 2021 | 07:52 AM
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Your thinking could certainly be correct. Definitely a design flaw. Thanks.
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Old Mar 27, 2021 | 12:58 PM
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FWIW IMO the issue is not with the seal... every door and hatch on every car has a similar seal... thre problem is where MB decides to locate critical electronic components...

I had BMW wagon that had 5k of electronics ruined in rear hatch area... all fixed under warranty but still a poor place top locate these items
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Old Mar 28, 2021 | 05:28 PM
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Yes that is a great point that I missed discussing. My service representative even noted that all the electronics on this vehicle are on the bottom of the truck at the lowest point. Crazy.
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