GLE Class (W166) Produced 2015-2019

Necessary to change rotors with each brake pad change?

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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 02:16 PM
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2016 MB GLE 300d / 2019 F-150 Lariat 3.5 EcoBoost / 2007 Subaru Forester XT Sport
Necessary to change rotors with each brake pad change?

Our 2016 GLE 300d's "Check Brake Wear" warning came on for what seems like the 4th time in almost 70k miles. MB actually ate the cost multiple times as they couldn't explain why our pads were wearing so quickly with mostly highway driving. Anyway, at this point they're not going to pay anymore, but the prices they're quoting for a brake job are pretty insane. The rotors actually look pretty good with minimal scoring. Is it absolutely necessary to change the rotors? I was going to buy a full PowerStop Z23 kit, but I'm not sure if that's even necessary. Any recommendations for brake pads? I'd like to avoid the OEM pads if possible for something a little less dusty.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 02:43 PM
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You change rotors when they do not meet spec..

IE too thin; Warped, not smooth.
GRooved like an old 78 record.....

DO not run true anymore.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 03:04 PM
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Not strictly necessary to change rotors and pads at the same time.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 06:59 PM
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after 4 years and 70k miles, I'd change rotors... not much more in labor... you got your money's worth...
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by whitewagon
after 4 years and 70k miles, I'd change rotors... not much more in labor... you got your money's worth...
I would do the same.
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Old Jul 4, 2020 | 03:20 AM
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MLs and GLEs are heavy trucks and the MB pads (somehow soft) are designed to help it stop the truck. On my ML my rear pads went through 38k and fronts at 50k compare that to my 2009 C300 with 130k on the motor and it still has 6mm of pads on both front and rear. If you can find a indy and your rotors have been replaced like 4 times go with a aftermarket like Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads. Zimmerman rotors are German made and Textar pads are the same pads that MB uses they just slap their logo on it. BTW....if you are going through rotors and pads for every 15-18k I think you are riding the brakes as that is abnormal wear and tear.
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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 09:48 AM
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Agree with the previous comment. Also be mindful that assist systems, including basic cruise control (no Distronic), consumes brake pads. The basic cruise control function decelerates the vehicle if actual speed is above set speed, such as on a descent. The M-B cruise control is truly a control system, with actuation to accelerate as well as decelerate the vehicle. Most other brands have cruise control actuation only to accelerate the vehicle, and do not use the brakes to decelerate the vehicle for speed control purposes.

Additionally, the active lane keeping assist system consumes brake pads, to create a corrective yawing moment on the vehicle.

The brake "HOLD" function consumes brake pads, if you don't release it manually yourself by actuating the brake pedal. If, when using the HOLD function, you simply use the accelerator pedal to start moving again, there is a momentary consumption of brake pad as the driveline torque builds and the brake hydraulic pressure releases. It's not much, but if this is your normal method of operating the vehicle, it adds up over time.

Last edited by chassis; Jul 5, 2020 at 09:51 AM.
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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 10:48 AM
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Buy the kits from FCP Euro. Pay once and that it. If your pads or rotors fail they replace for free for the life of the automobile. I did this and everything went great and the braking is awesome. Get the Textar Pads if possible.
in a couple yes when I need new brakes I’ll just order them and send the old back for 100% refund. I do this with oil and filter every year on both my MB and BMW
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 07:24 AM
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Specs tell you when to replace (thickness), but labor "while you are in there" vs the timing of the eventual parts costs will help you decide. My advice, if one part needs replacing (thickness limits) and the matched part is ~50% or less of list, replace them both. Also, old school use to be 2 fronts to 1 rear on wear, but seeing now with nannies using the brakes, which nannies seem to prefer the rears to correct driving dynamic errors, seeing rears wear out before/with fronts in multiple applications.

It cost monies to drive, skimping on basic parts to save a buck on a $70k SUV/SAV may indicate the wrong performance vehicle was purchased. That is not to say throw money at the $ealer, but don't skimp on replacing wear items to save a buck. Learn to do these basic jobs yourself and the labor savings alone will negate any parts prices. YMWV.
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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 11:45 AM
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Just checked my ML 350 BT log,
Rear pads were replaced at 35K, not sure why
they were bad at 35 and second pair last 2x times more.
Front at 90K
Rotor never, they were just perfect.
Car sold at 110K.

To OP: Changing rotors shouldn't add a lot of labors, if they are bad replace them as all others suggested.
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Old Jul 8, 2020 | 03:30 PM
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+1 for replacing the rotors. Even if they're currently "in spec", they won't be for much longer. Then you're replacing them anyway. Why go through the labor hassle twice?

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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 05:42 AM
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When i do brakes. I always change out the rotors, pads and sensor. Do it right the first time. For rotors and sensor I stick with OEM (Mercedes-Benz) for pads I go with OEM or Akebono.

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