GLE Class (W166) Produced 2015-2019

2016 GLE400 feels heavy

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Old Apr 24, 2022 | 03:33 PM
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2016 GLE
2016 GLE400 feels heavy

Hi all. Just noticed that my 2016 GLE400 with 96k miles have become heavy. It takes long time to accelerate. Tried to time 0-60 and it takes more than 7 sec. I tried resetting the adaptive gear but it didn't help much.
few months back I took it to the agent as it was consuming fuel more than usual, they changed the fuel injection gaskets and now the fuel economy is good. I talked to them and they ensured nothing else has been done on the car.

I always maintain my car with the agent and on time. No faults or errors appear in the car and it drives as good as ever except this new issue.

Is the engine expected to drive like this due to high milage maybe or is something wrong with mine?!!!
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Old Apr 24, 2022 | 04:08 PM
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Fuel, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors.

Spark plugs, boots, coils.

Air filter, intake manifold.

Turbos and wastegates.

Cylinder compression.

What in the above list do you think would be faulty?



You should not have loss of power.
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Old Apr 25, 2022 | 05:12 AM
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i agree with Chassis at 96k miles. You should of had a full tune up, Trans fluid and both front and rear differential fluid change already.

Last edited by amusa; Apr 25, 2022 at 05:14 AM.
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Old Apr 30, 2022 | 09:18 AM
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Can you tell any difference in your engine's sound, RPM, or throttle response? Or is it just overall perception of speed loss?

If no felt/heard differences, then I'd look to your tires - air pressure, have you changed them to a newer compound recently - or your brakes - is your electronic parking brake or caliper applying any minimal force that needs to be adjusted? I start from the pavement and work my way back on these kinds of easter egg hunts. But a can of fuel booster to clean the fuel system may not be a bad idea either (like sea foam or others).

Good luck!
Joel

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Old Apr 30, 2022 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
Fuel, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors.

Spark plugs, boots, coils.

Air filter, intake manifold.

Turbos and wastegates.

Cylinder compression.

What in the above list do you think would be faulty?



You should not have loss of power.
I will tell the agent to check these in ny next service.
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Old Apr 30, 2022 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by amusa
i agree with Chassis at 96k miles. You should of had a full tune up, Trans fluid and both front and rear differential fluid change already.
Rear and front diff fluid was changed a year ago. Trans fluid was changed around 3 years ago. I don't remember the exact millage.
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Old Apr 30, 2022 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JoelCrow
Can you tell any difference in your engine's sound, RPM, or throttle response? Or is it just overall perception of speed loss?

If no felt/heard differences, then I'd look to your tires - air pressure, have you changed them to a newer compound recently - or your brakes - is your electronic parking brake or caliper applying any minimal force that needs to be adjusted? I start from the pavement and work my way back on these kinds of easter egg hunts. But a can of fuel booster to clean the fuel system may not be a bad idea either (like sea foam or others).

Good luck!
Joel
First I though it was from the trans and did a reset to th adaptive gear. The gear kick in and change is good but it is not as agreesive as it used to be but by a little.

I recently switched from michelin ps4s to conti uhp tyres
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Old Apr 30, 2022 | 05:52 PM
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You may have a problem with your intercooler circuit causing high air intake temperatures. Maybe a faulty pump or a leak, or simply low on coolant. Also get on a very slight incline and make sure the car rolls forward with your foot off the acceletor pedal.
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Old Apr 30, 2022 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
You may have a problem with your intercooler circuit causing high air intake temperatures. Maybe a faulty pump or a leak, or simply low on coolant. Also get on a very slight incline and make sure the car rolls forward with your foot off the acceletor pedal.
I will look into your suggestion. In an incline the car rolls forward, I tested this last week when I was going to my inlaws. They live in a mountain village.
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Old May 3, 2022 | 05:12 AM
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Got me thinking wondering if your bi-Turbo is running low Turbo boost pressure?
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Old May 5, 2022 | 03:04 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
check codes
check codes
check codes
With no codes, run live data.
Good scanner will have troubleshooting page, who will tell you what parameter is out of specs.
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Old May 6, 2022 | 04:07 PM
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@Firas_GLE update?
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Old May 6, 2022 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
@Firas_GLE update?
No update yet. I am stuck at work and can't go back home until 17 May.
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Old May 21, 2022 | 06:04 AM
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Hi all. So I took the car to good mechanic shop in the next town and he suspects the issue is with the gearbox. He pointed out that the transmission oil needs replacement as it is already due for replacement. So I will just replace the oil in the next service and will update accordingly.
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Old May 21, 2022 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Firas_GLE
Hi all. So I took the car to good mechanic shop in the next town and he suspects the issue is with the gearbox. He pointed out that the transmission oil needs replacement as it is already due for replacement. So I will just replace the oil in the next service and will update accordingly.
I recently had a flush and refill of the 7G tranny and can confirm that it does help smoothen the gear shifts…mine was really harsh downshifting and upshifting through 2nd/3rd land. That is much smoother now that I had it flushed.

One other area that comes to mind is in gas pedal response (meaning how the drive by wire commander in your pedal is communicating to your actual throttle). There is a product called a boost something that I bought and connected to my gas pedal (it’s a connector with a small remote). It effectively makes the engagement points of throttle response occur earlier in the pedal press (based on how you set it on the remote)… Its lowest setting makes the gas pedal give you a quicker response, to feel like you have more power (it doesn’t add more HP, just more response earlier in the pedal depression) and it can be adjusted to many levels of sensitivity higher, until just touching the gas pedal makes you burn out! Lol I enjoy using it on its lowest setting, even that makes my car feel much more responsive/quick.

That would be another recommendation I’d share to make you ML more responsive (less heavy).

Let us know if the tranny flush does it for you and good luck!

Joel
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Old May 23, 2022 | 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Firas_GLE
Hi all. So I took the car to good mechanic shop in the next town and he suspects the issue is with the gearbox. He pointed out that the transmission oil needs replacement as it is already due for replacement. So I will just replace the oil in the next service and will update accordingly.
Make sure when doing a Transmission fluid change, They replace the filter, pan gasket and the pan bolts. You can also replace the Guide Tube that is your preference. The Pan bolts are very important because they have to be replace every time you take those bolts out. due to it's material.

Also Very Very important. You better double check the part numbers because some of these parts have 2 different part numbers for the Filters, etc. You better make sure you get the correct part number for your VIN. I learned it the hard way till I discovered it that I ordered the wrong part. If I remember something about ECO or engine start or something, Maybe code A20. If you do a search on my previous post you see it.

Last edited by amusa; May 23, 2022 at 05:39 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2023 | 03:13 AM
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Hi all. So after long time I think I have found the issue. Tech did compression test and found that cylinder#5 is having low pressure. There is a leak some where in that cylinder and the advice is that I need to do an engine overhaul and to replace gaskets where the leak is happening.

BTW the car has run for nearly 176k km so around 109k miles.
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Old Jan 13, 2023 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Firas_GLE
Hi all. So after long time I think I have found the issue. Tech did compression test and found that cylinder#5 is having low pressure. There is a leak some where in that cylinder and the advice is that I need to do an engine overhaul and to replace gaskets where the leak is happening.

BTW the car has run for nearly 176k km so around 109k miles.
109 K miles is nothing for MB engine and MB engines don't fail just because.
I'd seek 2nd opinion and additional test.
Modern scanners can do engine "smoothest test" in just seconds and adding a teaspoon of oil into cylinder will help to determinate if the problem might be in valves. or piston part.
Scanner will also do injector quantity test, but I am not too familiar with those.
Meaning 1 hr of good technician working on scanner can save you big thousands on avoiding job that MIGHT be not necessary
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