MB Cam Posistion Magnet Wire Harness
10-24-2023, 01:03 PM
#1
MB Cam Posistion Magnet Wire Harness
On my 2018 GLE350 with 30,000 miles, I checked all four (4) Cam position magnets and the four wire harnesses for oil leaks and they are all dry. MB sells (also sold at FCP) a wire harness connector (looks like a small jumper wire with connectors) that is supposed to prevent any oil leakage from getting into the main wiring harness. The part number is MB 2711500156, and they are called CAM adjuster magnet wire harness. Cost is about $14 each. Has anyone used these and are they worth installing to prevent oil damage to the main wiring harness? Thank you for sharing any experience with these.
10-24-2023, 07:32 PM
#3
On my 2018 GLE350 with 30,000 miles, I checked all four (4) Cam position magnets and the four wire harnesses for oil leaks and they are all dry. MB sells (also sold at FCP) a wire harness connector (looks like a small jumper wire with connectors) that is supposed to prevent any oil leakage from getting into the main wiring harness. The part number is MB 2711500156, and they are called CAM adjuster magnet wire harness. Cost is about $14 each. Has anyone used these and are they worth installing to prevent oil damage to the main wiring harness? Thank you for sharing any experience with these.
I have a 2017 GLE 350....I presume my engine has these...where are they located? Can you describe how to get to them and evaluate? Thanks!!
10-24-2023, 07:42 PM
#4
LOL...I did a little research. I see FCP Euro sells the kit for about $63. It looks like these 4 are at the front of the engine. Will have to see how much needs to be removed (if at all) for access.
10-25-2023, 09:28 AM
#5
It looks like you figured out where these are located. The access to the connectors seem fairly straightforward. I am going to get to replacing these this weekend (hopefully) and I will let you know if there are any surprises. Should certainly be quicker than changing the spark plugs, which was last Sunday's project.
10-25-2023, 06:42 PM
#6
It looks like you figured out where these are located. The access to the connectors seem fairly straightforward. I am going to get to replacing these this weekend (hopefully) and I will let you know if there are any surprises. Should certainly be quicker than changing the spark plugs, which was last Sunday's project.
Tom
10-25-2023, 08:38 PM
#7
Tom:
This was the first time the plugs were changed on this car. I am certainly not a trained mechanic and found the plugs to be more of a job then I expected. I read some well written and informative posts by a guy with the screen name Chassis (he comments often in this forum) who does quite a bit of his own service and watched the Senior Leigh video of him doing the plugs on a sedan. Even with that information and solid experience, there were a few surprises. First, the 4,5 & 6 plugs (driver's side) took much more work and creativity to access. It would have been nice to know that while the ECU bracket does have to be unbolted, it does not need to be removed (and would be quite difficult to remove because of the attached heat shield). To do this, the O2 sensor in the way of the heat shield has to be removed, along with the ECU bolts and some electrical connectors. The back ECU bolt is not visible and is tucked against the block. I had to find it with a mirror and then feel for it and then get an extension with the E10 socket on the bolt. Of course the bolt dropped into the lower plastic shield which meant more time to remove and reinstall it. Once the bolts are out and some wires and harnesses are moved aside the ECU bracket lowers away giving room to access the coils and plugs. Number 6 is the toughest to access but was still doable. I found the connectors on the coils difficult to remove and used a 90' needlenose pliers to gently free them up. The plug boots were also pretty snug and had to be carefully wiggled free. Bolts on each coil packs were easy. I cleaned each boot with electric contact cleaner and coated the plug boot lips and coil connectors with dielectric grease before reassembling. Number 4 and 5 were far easier than 6. On the passenger side 1, 2 and 3 were a breeze and done in less than 1 hour. Coil pack electrical connectors on this side were also tough to disconnect and, like the other side, the plug boots had to be wiggled free. Overall, hard to tell the condition of the plugs when it comes to platinum. They were 5 years old with 30k so I changed them per MB specs. Next up is transmission fluid replacement.
This was the first time the plugs were changed on this car. I am certainly not a trained mechanic and found the plugs to be more of a job then I expected. I read some well written and informative posts by a guy with the screen name Chassis (he comments often in this forum) who does quite a bit of his own service and watched the Senior Leigh video of him doing the plugs on a sedan. Even with that information and solid experience, there were a few surprises. First, the 4,5 & 6 plugs (driver's side) took much more work and creativity to access. It would have been nice to know that while the ECU bracket does have to be unbolted, it does not need to be removed (and would be quite difficult to remove because of the attached heat shield). To do this, the O2 sensor in the way of the heat shield has to be removed, along with the ECU bolts and some electrical connectors. The back ECU bolt is not visible and is tucked against the block. I had to find it with a mirror and then feel for it and then get an extension with the E10 socket on the bolt. Of course the bolt dropped into the lower plastic shield which meant more time to remove and reinstall it. Once the bolts are out and some wires and harnesses are moved aside the ECU bracket lowers away giving room to access the coils and plugs. Number 6 is the toughest to access but was still doable. I found the connectors on the coils difficult to remove and used a 90' needlenose pliers to gently free them up. The plug boots were also pretty snug and had to be carefully wiggled free. Bolts on each coil packs were easy. I cleaned each boot with electric contact cleaner and coated the plug boot lips and coil connectors with dielectric grease before reassembling. Number 4 and 5 were far easier than 6. On the passenger side 1, 2 and 3 were a breeze and done in less than 1 hour. Coil pack electrical connectors on this side were also tough to disconnect and, like the other side, the plug boots had to be wiggled free. Overall, hard to tell the condition of the plugs when it comes to platinum. They were 5 years old with 30k so I changed them per MB specs. Next up is transmission fluid replacement.
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10-25-2023, 09:57 PM
#8
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Agree the engine need to be as warm as possible when removing coils. The MB assembly lube from the factory dries over time to a glue and makes boot removal difficult. When installing, add a generous dollop of dielectric grease into the coil boot.
Driver's side spark plugs on the 3.5L NA M276 in the GLE350 are a bear. the reasons are the ECU bracket and a vacuum line that are not present on the passenger's side.
Coil harness connectors are easy when you get the hang of it. Release the latch, squeeze the lever, push in (opposite of removal), wiggle, then continue to wiggle as the connector is pulled off. The push in+wiggle ensures the latch is fully released. Smear a bit of dielectric grease on both sides of the connector at reassembly. It helps things go easier next time.
Driver's side spark plugs on the 3.5L NA M276 in the GLE350 are a bear. the reasons are the ECU bracket and a vacuum line that are not present on the passenger's side.
Coil harness connectors are easy when you get the hang of it. Release the latch, squeeze the lever, push in (opposite of removal), wiggle, then continue to wiggle as the connector is pulled off. The push in+wiggle ensures the latch is fully released. Smear a bit of dielectric grease on both sides of the connector at reassembly. It helps things go easier next time.
10-26-2023, 05:10 PM
#9
Tom:
This was the first time the plugs were changed on this car. I am certainly not a trained mechanic and found the plugs to be more of a job then I expected. I read some well written and informative posts by a guy with the screen name Chassis (he comments often in this forum) who does quite a bit of his own service and watched the Senior Leigh video of him doing the plugs on a sedan. Even with that information and solid experience, there were a few surprises. First, the 4,5 & 6 plugs (driver's side) took much more work and creativity to access. It would have been nice to know that while the ECU bracket does have to be unbolted, it does not need to be removed (and would be quite difficult to remove because of the attached heat shield). To do this, the O2 sensor in the way of the heat shield has to be removed, along with the ECU bolts and some electrical connectors. The back ECU bolt is not visible and is tucked against the block. I had to find it with a mirror and then feel for it and then get an extension with the E10 socket on the bolt. Of course the bolt dropped into the lower plastic shield which meant more time to remove and reinstall it. Once the bolts are out and some wires and harnesses are moved aside the ECU bracket lowers away giving room to access the coils and plugs. Number 6 is the toughest to access but was still doable. I found the connectors on the coils difficult to remove and used a 90' needlenose pliers to gently free them up. The plug boots were also pretty snug and had to be carefully wiggled free. Bolts on each coil packs were easy. I cleaned each boot with electric contact cleaner and coated the plug boot lips and coil connectors with dielectric grease before reassembling. Number 4 and 5 were far easier than 6. On the passenger side 1, 2 and 3 were a breeze and done in less than 1 hour. Coil pack electrical connectors on this side were also tough to disconnect and, like the other side, the plug boots had to be wiggled free. Overall, hard to tell the condition of the plugs when it comes to platinum. They were 5 years old with 30k so I changed them per MB specs. Next up is transmission fluid replacement.
This was the first time the plugs were changed on this car. I am certainly not a trained mechanic and found the plugs to be more of a job then I expected. I read some well written and informative posts by a guy with the screen name Chassis (he comments often in this forum) who does quite a bit of his own service and watched the Senior Leigh video of him doing the plugs on a sedan. Even with that information and solid experience, there were a few surprises. First, the 4,5 & 6 plugs (driver's side) took much more work and creativity to access. It would have been nice to know that while the ECU bracket does have to be unbolted, it does not need to be removed (and would be quite difficult to remove because of the attached heat shield). To do this, the O2 sensor in the way of the heat shield has to be removed, along with the ECU bolts and some electrical connectors. The back ECU bolt is not visible and is tucked against the block. I had to find it with a mirror and then feel for it and then get an extension with the E10 socket on the bolt. Of course the bolt dropped into the lower plastic shield which meant more time to remove and reinstall it. Once the bolts are out and some wires and harnesses are moved aside the ECU bracket lowers away giving room to access the coils and plugs. Number 6 is the toughest to access but was still doable. I found the connectors on the coils difficult to remove and used a 90' needlenose pliers to gently free them up. The plug boots were also pretty snug and had to be carefully wiggled free. Bolts on each coil packs were easy. I cleaned each boot with electric contact cleaner and coated the plug boot lips and coil connectors with dielectric grease before reassembling. Number 4 and 5 were far easier than 6. On the passenger side 1, 2 and 3 were a breeze and done in less than 1 hour. Coil pack electrical connectors on this side were also tough to disconnect and, like the other side, the plug boots had to be wiggled free. Overall, hard to tell the condition of the plugs when it comes to platinum. They were 5 years old with 30k so I changed them per MB specs. Next up is transmission fluid replacement.
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