2017 GLE 350 151,000 miles on it. Got it used, know the guy who had it with almost all highway miles. No leaks, no Check Engine light and with regular service. The car does have a faulty window washer fluid level sensor and a faulty coolant level sensor. I haven't taken a video of this situation yet, but it is a problem that is getting persistent, maybe 10 times in the last month. On the highway or a fast road there is a slight clunk, like a hard downshift, and then the vehicle won't go past 2,100 or so RPMs. The other time is at a stop, the engine turns off quickly, and takes a bit to restart (couple three chuggas) then it will drive with the same condition, not going over 2,100 RPM. It does run through all the gears smoothly and after a while it will get back up to highway speeds, but getting there is the hard part. At a stop, when available, I can turn off the car, and restart then drive as normal. Again, No check engine lights. Has anyone else going through this same situation?

Hmmm, that is weird. Did you get a scanner and scanned it at least? Any ideas? @chassis

Yes, in fact I did just this evening! Like I said, there wasn't a check engine light, suddenly tonight there was! Then it did the exact same problem, chugga chugga, slow and now CHECK eng light. Codes; P0455 ($7e8Pd) Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (Large Leak), P2617 ($7e8Pd) Crank Position Signal Output Circuit / Open

Code: P0455 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (Large Leak)
Code: P2617 Crank Position Signal Output Circuit / Open
Googling them there codes next.

Change out the Crank Position Sensor first. You have to move one of the catalytic converters (driver side) to get to it.

I would only put OEM Mercedes CKP. I have seen aftermarket ones are hit or miss.

Yes, you did say you didn't have a check engine light but you didn't say if you scanned vehicle and not all codes throw a check engine light, well, glad you found the issue now : )

1. Replace main battery
2. Replace auxiliary battery
3. Replace washer fluid level sensor
4. Replace coolant level sensor
5. Change the transmission oil
6. Change the transfer case oil
7. Check cam position sensor and cam magnet sensor connectors for signs of oil
8. Clear codes
9. Report back

Thanks for chiming in.

Code: P2617 Crank Position Signal Output Circuit / Open


Your engine is trying to save itself from itself. This is a critical thing that you need to get figured out ASAP, as in before you blow up the engine and it ends up on the "I do cars" channel on youtube.

Following up here. After a bit after repair, it started doing the same stuff in the original post above, plus is (twice) turning off at slow speeds. Also seems to be downshifting hard at slower speeds, I'm not one for hard braking, not using paddle shifters, just letting off the gas. I did take it to MB Clinic here in Denver Metro (overall good reviews), a shop that is obviously Mercedes. Some money in and the W163 did work well for a while, after batteries, fluids and the like. The shop did say it was it was a voltage problem throwing codes, thus the batteries and the aux battery which I had to remind them about and cost a couple of extra bills. I did not change out the crankshaft position sensor suggested by amusa. I think I should have followed the suggestion. It's not gonna blow up, OldManAndHisCar. How much money do should I put into this? chassis? I liked this input from W205C43PFL. Anyway back into the shop as suggested for crankshaft position sensor suggested by amusa. My problems, although very different from what went on with my 2015 Infiniti QX60, but are similar enough for me to suspect a alternator problem. Will report back as I plan on keeping this car for a while. Peace out.

Give us an update once you change out the CKP. and hopefully the shop will clear out the codes after swapping the CKP (sometimes it does not clear it automatically while driving).

I should of mention earlier in the post. Your vehicle is running in limp mode. The RPMs are typically restricted to a low range., often around 2k-3k RPM, and the vehicle may also be locked into a low gear, limiting speed to around 30-50mph, as the car's computer (EDM/ECU) enters a safety mode to protect the engine and transmission.

All the best in getting this resolved OP, great suggestion by forum member amusa on the CPS.

Please respond to items 1-8, indicating which ones you have completed and which ones have not yet been completed.

You need to put the car in a state of known and repeatable condition. You haven't done that yet.

You can buy a 2017 GLE with 150k miles for ~$12k. Buying a comparable newer vehicle with fewer miles will cost at least $12k. So what do you want to do with that information?

1. Replace main battery REPLACED
2. Replace auxiliary battery REPLACED
3. Replace washer fluid level sensor - Nope- about $300 at the shop.
4. Replace coolant level sensor - Error went away with new batteries
5. Change the transmission oil - No need per records
6. Change the transfer case oil - Not needed.
7. Check cam position sensor and cam magnet sensor connectors for signs of oil - This last time at the shop I replaced the crank shaft position sensor
8. Clear codes Done
9. Report back

Replaced crankshaft position sensor, 32 mile in and no problems. Will report back after a weeks worth of driving. DZ

nice!

Good work.

What do insides of the cam position sensor and cam magnet connectors look like?

I don't know what they looked like as I took it to a shop, but I will ask. I don't think they checked the magnet connector sensors, they are a cheap part. I'm just a newbie to this vehicle, although I did drive a W126 for a few years and a first generation W163. Anyway, thanks for the link to your W166 guide. OMG this is the greatest thing ever for this ride! https://mbworld.org/forums/gle-class...ml#post7915899
I will report back.

Hey Everybody! After changing out the crank position sensor last week, I have had absolutely no problems at all the car drives like a dream! I wanted to take this time to thank everyone for their input, questions, lists and suggestions. I still don't know what the cam position sensor and cam magnet connectors look like. If there was oil on them or not, cross that bridge when I get to it, I guess. But, I am happy with the way things worked out and will be back perusing this forum for tips and tricks. Thanks again DarrenZ

Good to hear it is fixed, thank you for reporting back!