1,000 mile (1,500 km) Engine Break-In
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
1,000 mile (1,500 km) Engine Break-In
Has anyone else been told by their dealership that these engines "have no break-in period", that they were "broken-in at the factory"?
WRONG.... way wrong... total and an outright lie!
WRONG.... way wrong... total and an outright lie!
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2010 GLK350 4matic and my favorite Vintage 1982 PK Ripper Looptail
When I picked up last week, the salesman told me the break-in period is 1,500kms. He also said try not to drive the GLK in sport mode until after 1,500kms.
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GLK 350
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GLK350 4Matic - Loaded
MBRedux, don't be fooled... the dealers here are not honest. Maybe just a little less crooked!
I don't trust any of them... Canadian or American... **** not even Saturn dealerships!
I don't trust any of them... Canadian or American... **** not even Saturn dealerships!
#6
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well according to manual there is a break-in preriod, but manual is not written by people who develop engines, so there were many discussions on other forums about break-in periods, whether engines are in fact broken-in at the factory, and how you should really break-in your engine. Just search C class for that.
I'm very surprised that salesman would say that there is no break-in period.
On a side note, I took my car off the lot in S mode, (supposed to be in C). Drove in S the whole break in period. I also started doing a few redlines here and there after 200-300 miles with warmed up engine of course. I agree with philosophy that you have to make sure engine is warm but you don't have to treat like a baby, and don't abuse it either and it'll work in to condition for as long as you have the car.
I'm very surprised that salesman would say that there is no break-in period.
On a side note, I took my car off the lot in S mode, (supposed to be in C). Drove in S the whole break in period. I also started doing a few redlines here and there after 200-300 miles with warmed up engine of course. I agree with philosophy that you have to make sure engine is warm but you don't have to treat like a baby, and don't abuse it either and it'll work in to condition for as long as you have the car.
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
I'm very surprised that salesman would say that there is no break-in period.On a side note, I took my car off the lot in S mode, (supposed to be in C). Drove in S the whole break in period. I also started doing a few redlines here and there after 200-300 miles with warmed up engine of course. I agree with philosophy that you have to make sure engine is warm but you don't have to treat like a baby, and don't abuse it either and it'll work in to condition for as long as you have the car.
Ah... those youthful days...
PS When I sold it, it had over 90,000 miles on it. That engine never gave me any trouble; in fact, it was a free revving fast performer. Maybe the "break-in" thing is a myth!
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M-B GLE, Porsche 911 Turbo, Porsche Boxster (spouse)
Both camps are quite passionate about their beliefs on that subject. I've "babied" new engines and I've driven new engines "normally" from day one and, frankly, haven't been able to tell much difference if I use oil consumption as the metric. Just too many variables and production engine tolerances aren't all that tight; thus, quite a variance is possible due to cumulative distribution tolerances from engine to engine coming off the same line.
We pretty much followed the book recommendations with our GLK and it was ready for a quart at 2000 miles. Don't know if that's going to change as I get more miles on the engine and start taking longer trips. But it's consistent with what I see on my other two European cars. They all seem to burn more oil than Japanese engines which typically don't need any topping off between oil changes.
We pretty much followed the book recommendations with our GLK and it was ready for a quart at 2000 miles. Don't know if that's going to change as I get more miles on the engine and start taking longer trips. But it's consistent with what I see on my other two European cars. They all seem to burn more oil than Japanese engines which typically don't need any topping off between oil changes.
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
I see your point... although the very best way to seat the piston rings for max. seal is to perform a good engine brake once in a while down hill during break-in.
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That is BS and represents lack of knowledge of the process.
When I was a technical writer and wrote manuals for USA nuclear weapons, there wasn't a single word in the manual not approved by the design engineers. You can count on it that it's the same way with your Mercedes owner manual.
There is no "debate:" what the manual says is what should be followed.
BTW, I toured the V-gasoline engine plant in Unterturkheim in 2006, and there is no factory "break-in." There is an electrical spin-up (i.e. engine not started) to verify various parameters, etc., but that's it.
But, folks are a bit behind the curve as regards "break-in" in any event, as the latest cylinder production methods pretty much eliminate the need for much of it. See, for example, http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...way_to_go.aspx
When I was a technical writer and wrote manuals for USA nuclear weapons, there wasn't a single word in the manual not approved by the design engineers. You can count on it that it's the same way with your Mercedes owner manual.
There is no "debate:" what the manual says is what should be followed.
BTW, I toured the V-gasoline engine plant in Unterturkheim in 2006, and there is no factory "break-in." There is an electrical spin-up (i.e. engine not started) to verify various parameters, etc., but that's it.
But, folks are a bit behind the curve as regards "break-in" in any event, as the latest cylinder production methods pretty much eliminate the need for much of it. See, for example, http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...way_to_go.aspx
#12
Drive like you want to drive it. Just don't revs to the red line. If you baby this engine it will not remember to get mature. Have fun this German engineering. Remember to go slow to warm it up first.
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GLK350
I just passed 1500km on my way home right into the garage...woohoo...I am going to spin this baby real hard tomorrow morning! Couldn't look for an excuse to have a run to the grocery store tonite tho...lol
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His mama. Traded y0 mama in because she was squeaking.
This argument is as old as engines have been around. Some say to take it easy for xxxx amount of miles. some say drive it hard. Some, just got down to the science of it and figured it out.
I've broken in several new engines using the methods in the link and I have NEVER had any engine rotating assembly issues.
Read. Learn. Then decide who knows better. You or this guy.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I've broken in several new engines using the methods in the link and I have NEVER had any engine rotating assembly issues.
Read. Learn. Then decide who knows better. You or this guy.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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2010 GLK 220CDI 4M BlueEFFICIENCY
Engine is only one - 1- reason why MB recommends (in the GLK Operator's Manual) a break-in period, the three other ones are: the front differential, the rear differential and the transfer case. The latter currently being in question in another thread.
Having examined (large) gearboxes from different systems after "break-in periods", noted metal debris from the toothwheels (naturally) grinded off during the "run-in-process", had I no doubts in following MB's recommendation.
As well should another "break-in period" follow any replacement of the units.
Having examined (large) gearboxes from different systems after "break-in periods", noted metal debris from the toothwheels (naturally) grinded off during the "run-in-process", had I no doubts in following MB's recommendation.
As well should another "break-in period" follow any replacement of the units.
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2010 GLK 220CDI 4M BlueEFFICIENCY
Enjoy the
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His mama. Traded y0 mama in because she was squeaking.
I don't know how much truth there is to this, but I have heard that each 65 (CL, SL, S, etc) engine is actually Dyno tested for advertised power and broken in at the same time.
Of course, I have no proof to back this up, all I can say is that I remember reading about it somewhere. Granted, I could just have been having a stroke at the same time I was looking for internet **** and just imagined the whole thing.
~shrug~
Of course, I have no proof to back this up, all I can say is that I remember reading about it somewhere. Granted, I could just have been having a stroke at the same time I was looking for internet **** and just imagined the whole thing.
~shrug~
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like somebody said...owners manual is written by lawyers not engineers. They don't want you to go 100mph right away in case factory worker screwed something up.
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E320 CDi 2k SLK230 Designo 04 SLK 320 Final Edition 2010 GLK350 06 VW Beetle TDi 2012 Plug In Prius
The European owners manuals have the exact same cautions and wording as the USA versions and they very likely don't have lawyers writing the owners manuals in Europe since being a lawyer isn't as profit driven as being a lawyer is in the USA.
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E320 CDi 2k SLK230 Designo 04 SLK 320 Final Edition 2010 GLK350 06 VW Beetle TDi 2012 Plug In Prius
The European owners manuals have the exact same cautions and wording as the USA versions and they very likely don't have lawyers writing the owners manuals in Europe since being a lawyer in Europe isn't as profit driven as being a lawyer is in the USA.
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2011 GLK350, 2010 ML350, 2008 C63 AMG
Did anyone change all the fluids after the break-in period? I plan on getting an oil change but wondering if the transmission fluid and differential fluid should be changed as well since the tranny is what really needs to be broken in.
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S600,GLK350,528i,G35,X3,C320,330i
Change GLK's Transmission and Differential fluid at Service A? NOoo
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2011 GLK350, 2010 ML350, 2008 C63 AMG
Reason being.... you don't want to pay or because you think it is useless. I figure the transmission is what sees the most wear and tear in the beginning so flushing it out would be good. i remember when i flushed out the LSD after the first 1000 miles of one of my previous cars and saw metal shards in the fluid.