cyberglk350

I was going to rotate my tires this weekend. But I was thinking, with the TPMS is there something we need ot do after rotating the tires?

Aren't the sensors wheel location specific? For example...

If I move the right front wheel to the back right, will the computer think the tire now on the back right is actually the tire on the front right?

Do you guys follow what I am saying?

GLKKa2H

You need to perform a "Restart of the TPMS, as it is then recalibrates to the current tire inflation pressures." Note the GLK Operator's Manual:

http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalA...l/2010_glk.pdf,
page 226. Description of the system starts on page 223.

Quote:

Aren't the sensors wheel location specific? For example...

Information with regard to tire rotation starts on page 234. Correct move of the wheels is important due to spinning direction etc, however does the TPMS Restart take care of the pressure transmitter locations.

NYCGLK

If tire pressure doesn't change no need to restart it? TMPS just tells if pressure in the tire is to low regardless of where it is, can be in you trunk lol.

I think with tire rotation it's more improtant to rotate and tighten the bolts properly. Rotation is easy for GLK basically front to back and back to front on the same side, so can just do one side at a time. If you have staggered set up (Euro Sport model) then there is nothing to rotate. Lastly make sure bolts are tight (so they don't unscrew) but not too tight so they don't snap.

GLKKa2H

Just as a precautionary action/good practice, as there in the manual is this little "i Helpful hints or further information you may find useful.", with following text: "With a spare wheel mounted, the system may still indicate the tire inflation pressure of the removed road wheel for some minutes. If this happens, keep in mind that the indicated value where the spare wheel is mounted does not reflect the actual spare tire inflation pressure."

And TMPS not only tells if pressure in the tire is to low, it as well shows the current tire inflation pressure for each tire in the multifunction display - as you know, so (re-) calibration is not a bad idea

hcetzneb

You must reset the tpms after a rotation.... each wheel sensor has a specific address that it transmits and rotating with out reseting will cause a light... It takes maybe 3 seconds to reset so its good practice to do so. Tighten in a cross pattern and torque to 100nm

GLKKa2H

That's an interesting statement, and made me even more confused. In the manual is required torque 150nm, which I think applies for steel rims. On my request to dealership, regarding (MB) OEM aluminum rims, was the answer 130nm. Winter rims were bought from a tire/rim specialist, and their recommended torque was 120nm, and said OK with 130nm when I told them what MB statement was. Is the 100nm recommendation from any authoritative source (outside from yourself)?

NYCGLK

Didn't have any lights after rotation, but I don't have the newer system that shows trie pressure in each tire, in the case with newer system you most likely have to reset the system.

Also it's good habbit to check tire pressure manually, and resetting, if pressure adjustments are required.

MB_Owner

I could see why you might conclude that the note on the Operator's Manual, page 317 might only apply to the steel rim since that section of the book is talking about mounting the spare:

"Tighten the five wheel bolts evenly, following the diagonal sequence illustrated (1 to 5), until all bolts are tight. Observe a tightening torque of 110 lb-ft (150 Nm)."

However, the note on page 234 under "Rotating Tires" also gives the same 110 lb-ft guidance:

"Warning!

Have the tightening torque checked after changing a wheel. The wheels [my bolding... note wheels plural] could come loose if they are not tightened to a torque of 110 lb-ft (150 Nm).

Only use genuine Mercedes-Benz wheel bolts specified for your vehicle’s rims."

Since all USA vehicles are equipped with alloy rims, there's no doubt in my mind that the 110 lb-ft (150 Nm) torque spec applies to the alloy as well as steel spare rims.

I'd follow M-B's Operator Manual guidance if I were doing the tire rotation myself.

GLKKa2H

I agree with your assessment, however have I decided to take the risk of loosing a wheel or two, by using 120Nm both on my cast- and forged aluminum rims. Decision made based on the advice given by the tire/rim specialist, who is aware of torque as listed in the manual, and the discussion with the dealer.

The dealer had problem with removing two of the bolts from the winter wheels they had put on with 130Nm. When I changed to summer tires by myself, I didn't dare to loosen the bolts, and the dealer had to change from one pressurized tool to a heavier one to get the bolts out. The torque as required for the wheels in our former, fairly sized sedan, was 110Nm.

Apart from that, do I follow Operator's Manual guidance in general

I'll post the forum before I call for assistance - when the wheel(s) came off

hcetzneb

Sorry i ment 100ft lb WIS or the mb tech spec for a 204.9 (GLK) is 150 nm ( 110ft lb) is was modified so some manuals will still say 130nm but the correct torque is 150nm... I torque mine to 140nm or 100ft lbs because i have hre's and they recomend it. 120nm is to loose even for aftermarket wheels i wouldnt recomend it. The reason for the higher torque for the suv's is because of the bigger wheels and tires which weigh more on most sedans you are correct with the 110 nm ( 81ft lb)