2011 GLK350, 99, 904mi. Paint is still great. 20" wheels are starting to flake their clear-coating. Had the ESL failure a couple years ago (that was a mess), fixed it for a couple hundred dollars. Rear hatch latch-motor has been replaced twice. There's a mind-numbing rattle from the rear interior area (it seems) that happens only when it's in reverse (moving or not), and won't make a sound if you get back there to see what it is.. Fuel economy is (what I consider) terrible. I think we avg about 14-15city, ~20mpg on highway; my 2008 Dodge diesel gets better mpg.
Water leak from the right floor under-dash area if it'w pouring rain and the blower fan is running. turn fan off, water stops dripping in; I assume something to do with the box, haven't pinpointed it yet.

Aside from that, it's a great little SUV.

 

Our 2012 GLK 350 4matic developed a clunking noise in the right rear of the vehicle. It turned out to be the rear shocks and top bushings.

As of late, our GLK has developed a slight rough idle when first started. That symptom goes completely away after the engine fully warms up.

66,000 miles on the vehicle.

 

I need to replace Pilot 2003 and thinking about 2015 GLK350 RW or 2015 GLK250 RW Diesel. Is that reliable car with no problem with transmission and diesel?

 

I recommend you read up on the Bluetec issues as there are many. For the majority of drivers, I'd suggest you stick with gassers.

 

Thank for advice I new that but who know maybe not for this model. I like the fact it around 32 MPG but because I used second hand so maintenance will be expensive. Is GLK 2015 had known transmission problem? Any reason why Mercedes stop build this model until 2015?

 

It wasn't selling as well as they had hoped. It was replaced by the current GLC class, which is no replacement if you ask me.

The 7G+ transmission is used in many MB models and is generally regarded as reliable. There have been reports of premature problems, especially on these forums where enthusiasts tend to gather. It is definitely not representative of the public at large, which is typically ignorant on most things automotive (yes, that's harsh but it's also true).

The 4Matic models tend to have a few more issues, especially on the front end over time/mileage. The advice you'll likely get around here is to stick with the gas engine and RWD unless you live in a place that gets lots of snow and you really need the AWD 4Matic. Since 2015 was the last year the GLK was made, that would probably be the best one to buy if you can find a low-mileage unit. More importantly, I'd make sure to get all of its service history. That's more important than the number of miles at least to me.

 

Thank you andreigbs. Yes I did have E350 2013 4 matic now had transfer case problem which for MB would ask to replace whole transmission around $8K. I am in Dallas so 4matic not really necessary. Indy shop is checking now and they can repair transfer case only.

 

I don't know if you have solved your rough idle issue, but my glk had the same issue, only I noticed it happened more on or after those cold and or damp days in Ontario. I believe it is something to do with the air intake.
Months later I am now having my Secondary air pump replaced (which only turns on at the begining & stops after a few mins). My benz now has no rough idle (warmer/dryer weather) but the secondary air pump has a loud whine when it cold starts & stops after it is done. I have been doing my research on this air injection process and I will also be replacing the relay, the L & R air diverter valves, and the changer over valve for the air injection system. I will check in after the work is done at my mechanic, but I hope this helps someone and my glk.

 

The rough idle problem turned out to be both engine mounts and transmission mount. I was told these parts are pneumatic and wear out, so I had them replaced. The engine is now smooth as glass.

 

thanks for the quick reply, I will keep that in mind. Glad you found a solution!

 

the problem I’m having with my hatch is that it works with the remote and from the hatch itself but not from the door latch release. Anyone else having this issue?

 

...

 

Brake dust. When those tiny pellets intrude bet. disc/pad the scream is intolerable. Clean w soap/h2o goes away yet may return. Hate "those" head-turns lol.

 

Cleaning is good, but also add a layer of brake pad compound (many new pads come with it pre-installed, or with a thin rubber(ish) material on the back of the pads. Either way, it helps damp out the oscillations that cause the squeal. And FWIW, it's a good excuse to swap out pads for a set of low-dust ceramic pads.

 

I have a similar but different problem. My hatch sometimes won't close from the hatch itself, only from the remote.

 

Been buying Mercedes since my first, with factory delivery, in 1971, a 220D.