2010 GLK electrical problem?
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2010 Mercedes GLK-350
2010 GLK electrical problem?
my 2010 glk seems to have an electrical problem.. in the past, my left headlight kept going out without explanation at least once a month. i had the bulb changed for free each time (warranty). last week, on the highway, it went into limp mode for no reason, and i couldn't go over 60 mph, it would shift fine and everything, then the engine died and would crank but would not turn on. when i got it fixed i was told a bunch of codes were messed up. it has run with no problems since, but yesterday, i went to push the panic button to find it, and all of the lights stayed off, but the front left turned on. could this be a CPU problem? please help, im going on a road trip from NJ to Florida soon and i need to know if i should do anything
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From: Philly area
350 GLK, C280
Sounds like they typical dying battery syndrome. If you have a short in one of the cells,from lead fallout, it may cause the alternator to spike high voltage and blow the lamp. Or you may have a short or intermittent break in the power lead to the lbulb causing the computer to throw a bunch of codes and the on-off repeated cycle of the lamp filament shortens the bulb life.
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GLK 350 / Porsche 993
^Good call. If that's the case, I'm surprised that dealer didn't check the battery voltage when the car was brought in. They check battery during service A, I believe.
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Mercedes-Benz GLK350 2010
Electrical issues 2010 GLK
Hello there, after reading this I realized I absolutely needed to get this out there and see what people thought. When I bought my Mercedes-Benz GLK 350 everything was awesome, until about a week later when my right headlight went out. Fast forward 3 years later and I've changed every single bulb on this vehicle a couple times. I always have either a right low beam or left low beam out so I use my brights in most situations so I don't get pulled over. Then my side markers went out, then my parking lights went out, currently, as of tonight. My right low beam my left low beam both of my side markers both of my parking lamps in my left tail break are not working. What is going on in this vehicle? Please help me. Someone told me that these wiring harnesses literally biodegrade and were created to do so. I can't afford some crazy rewire, and I refuse to go to the dealership. Anything you can help me with would be appreciated
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I use a voltmeter-equipped USB charger in my car so I can always keep an eye on the voltages.
of a sub-$10 unit you can get delivered tomorrow (most places). UPDATE: I just ordered one because it's prettier than the current one, which is hard to read because of the design. I'll let you know if I like it or not.
And really, everyone should have some sort of basic multimeter. They can save you a fortune, and of course, this one would easily test your electrical system (though of course, not while you're driving down the road). About $6 from Harbor Freight.
And really, everyone should have some sort of basic multimeter. They can save you a fortune, and of course, this one would easily test your electrical system (though of course, not while you're driving down the road). About $6 from Harbor Freight.
Last edited by habbyguy; Feb 26, 2024 at 08:40 PM.
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I'm betting they were conflating BMW with Mercedes... I know some of the wiring (particularly the headlight internals) were made with some VERY suspect insulation that broke down dramatically. Apparently it's a "green thing" (biodegradable insulation). Of course, the real effect is that you throw away an entire headlight and spend a couple grand on new (non-biodegradable) headlights (again, for BMW). I haven't heard anything about this problem with a MB. Yet. ;-)
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2013 glk 350
When it went into limp mode you were not given a reason why. Something as simple as leaving the oil fill cap loose can cause it. Maybe that bulb that went out every month did so because it was cheap Chinese they were buying . Is It ok now ? I wouldn’t worry but have battery and alternator checked. Most auto part stores will test it free while you wait and run codes! All free. Are bulbs ok now ? Did you buy it new ? Maybe all bulbs were swapped for higher output - short life bulbs by the previous owner
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From: Surrey B.C.
2013 GLK 350 4 matic
Why not just display the voltage and amps on the dash as you drive? Will give a good insight as to the alternator performance. AS @Mmr1 states cheap bulbs last a very short time and the ones that try to mimic HID lights are the worst.
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
Degraded insulation doesn’t burn out bulbs. And if it caused shorts, you should get trouble codes stored. Some older Mercedes models, like W210, W211, W202, W203, did have problems. Hella, who made the assemblies for MB used rubber insulation inside the headlamps. I think they made the problem BMW assemblies, too.
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
Mercedes actually had a journey into the world of biodegradable wiring harnesses. I recall it was early to mid 1990's. It did not end well. But that's not important right now.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I got the new USB charger / voltmeter, and am impressed. OK, I'm largely impressed because I got it for $7 including overnight delivery. ;-)
Still, this is really just the thing that SO many posters here could use. Just flip the key to position I, and you can see your battery voltage. Start the car, and you can see the "running voltage" (alternator output). No leads, no selecting modes or ranges, just plug-n-play.
And yeah, I did a video (who woulda thunk it?). Hope it helps some of our novice wrench-twisters, and FWIW, those of us who just like the option of being able to check the status of their battery and alternator without dragging out the multimeter.
Still, this is really just the thing that SO many posters here could use. Just flip the key to position I, and you can see your battery voltage. Start the car, and you can see the "running voltage" (alternator output). No leads, no selecting modes or ranges, just plug-n-play.
And yeah, I did a video (who woulda thunk it?). Hope it helps some of our novice wrench-twisters, and FWIW, those of us who just like the option of being able to check the status of their battery and alternator without dragging out the multimeter.
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
You can get volts and amps on the Workshop menu. It's a PITA, but it is available.
Put key in ignition, turn to position one.
Use left arrow to scroll to TRIP meter.
Push Phone button on steering wheel , right side .
Immediately, while holding Phone , push and hold OK on left side of steering wheel. In about 5 seconds it enters workshop menu.
Put key in ignition, turn to position one.
Use left arrow to scroll to TRIP meter.
Push Phone button on steering wheel , right side .
Immediately, while holding Phone , push and hold OK on left side of steering wheel. In about 5 seconds it enters workshop menu.
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
The 11.8 before points toward a weak battery. Should be more like 12.2 or more. Get it load tested at most auto parts stores that sell batteries. The 14.8 after indicates a working charging system.
IB: -8.0 indicates an 8 amp draw. Not that much, and shouldn't pull the battery down below 12 volts. In the second pic. IB: 18.0 indicates it's charging the battery at a rate of 18 amps.
Wait, you aren't the guy with the problem... Yet...
IB: -8.0 indicates an 8 amp draw. Not that much, and shouldn't pull the battery down below 12 volts. In the second pic. IB: 18.0 indicates it's charging the battery at a rate of 18 amps.
Wait, you aren't the guy with the problem... Yet...
Last edited by John CC; Feb 28, 2024 at 03:17 PM.
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
The 11.8 before points toward a weak battery. Should be more like 12.2 or more. Get it load tested at most auto parts stores that sell batteries. The 14.8 after indicates a working charging system.
IB: -8.0 indicates an 8 amp draw. Not that much, and shouldn't pull the battery down below 12 volts. In the second pic. IB: 18.0 indicates it's charging the battery at a rate of 18 amps.
Wait, you aren't the guy with the problem... Yet...
IB: -8.0 indicates an 8 amp draw. Not that much, and shouldn't pull the battery down below 12 volts. In the second pic. IB: 18.0 indicates it's charging the battery at a rate of 18 amps.
Wait, you aren't the guy with the problem... Yet...
(I've never done that, cause I didn't know that secret capability).
And yes, I'm NOT the OP ... admittedly, I've only replaced the Aux battery on our 2014 350 Base (when we got the warning on dash).
And yes, the main battery that is in there NOW, is the original from 2014, so have yet to replace it.
It starts up RIGHT NOW (no hesitation, etc), and there is no indication of a "battery going bad".
And yes, I guess, as a preventative maintenance procedure, I should simply get a new main battery !!
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
I don't know where the system gets the battery reading from. I always assumed it was that little device on the battery cable. If it's somewhere else, like the cigar lighter socket, there could be a voltage drop before the measurement gets taken, or a bad ground reference. Either would lower the measurement.
OTOH, the good reading with the engine running would tend to rule that out, and validate the other reading, too.
OTOH, the good reading with the engine running would tend to rule that out, and validate the other reading, too.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
FWIW, I've never owned a car that shows the resting voltage (hours after being driven) at more than 1-2 tenths of a volt over 12. Never had a problem starting a car with a good battery that's showing 11.8 or so, either. OTOH, it's possible to have a batter showing 12 or more volts that's got a problem that doesn't allow it to provide the necessary cranking amps, so voltage is just one parameter (though almost always the one that will tell you what's going on).
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
On a "healthy" battery, open circuit (no load) voltage is a good indicator of state of charge. A healthy 12 volt AGM battery showing 11.8 volts is about 30% charged. Add to that the reported 8 amp load and it's probably closer 40%. Since the charging voltage is good, that begs the question "why is it only 40% charged?"
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
John CC, the only scenarios I can think of are:
1) The car isn't being driven / run long enough to get a "real charge" (it does take a while)
2) The battery is bad. If the battery is being supplied with (say) 14.5 volts for an hour, and still has problems starting the car, I'd say that it's bad (or, there could be a connection issue reducing the charging current getting to the battery).
This conversation has certainly departed from its original subject (apparently TOO MUCH voltage getting to the battery, blowing out all the OP's light bulbs). I just didn't want anyone to get their knickers in a twist because their battery measured 12.0 volts. ;-)
1) The car isn't being driven / run long enough to get a "real charge" (it does take a while)
2) The battery is bad. If the battery is being supplied with (say) 14.5 volts for an hour, and still has problems starting the car, I'd say that it's bad (or, there could be a connection issue reducing the charging current getting to the battery).
This conversation has certainly departed from its original subject (apparently TOO MUCH voltage getting to the battery, blowing out all the OP's light bulbs). I just didn't want anyone to get their knickers in a twist because their battery measured 12.0 volts. ;-)
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Maybe my Reply is some sort of karma thing?
So, my question now (even thought I never posted about any electrical problems) ...
Am I in a current state of "you will probably have electrical problems soon" situation??
And yes, I anticipate I'll have to replace that original battery at some point.
As I stated, original battery still in place in our 2014 350 Base. Aux battery recently replaced.
I have NOT experienced any indication of a "weak battery"
(based on my 40+ years doing vehicle shade-tree wrenching).
Every 2-3 weeks, I rotate the trickle charger from one vehicle (GLK, Jeep, zero-turn) to the next (as a maintenance routine).
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
I would have it tested. I'm on battery number 3 on my 2014. Diesels in cold climates are very unforgiving of marginal batteries. (I think the last one I removed went on to power another, less demanding car.)
