Transmission Kick?
seems to happen more when the car is hot and its driving under 1000RPM's and then suddenly "jerks" or "kicks" hard when you suddenly accelerate.

its been happening on ocasion but seems to be more and more the last couple of months...
Took it to the dealer once about a month ago and they claimed it was due to a new transmission software that needed to be uploaded to the cars computer...
I wonder why my car never came with a USB cable or iTunes? lol
all jokes aside, they uploaded the "new software" and everything seemed to be running fine for a couple of days...now its back at it and its back at the dealer again...lets see what they say...
so far the car has been the best thing since slice bread for me...its a 2010 GLK 350 4matic and has about 60,000 miles all service done at the dealer and everything is up to date...my "extended warranty" is up until august 2016 so if it has to come down to replacing the transmission, at least its covered...but damn! hopefully someone here can brush me up with some knowledge about what is going on?
I thought it could be transmission or engine mounts (its that bad)...but that would be happening every time i suddenly accelerate it...and thats not the case.
Last edited by erlomd; Mar 6, 2015 at 12:11 AM.
Also, when cruising on the highway, I'm always close to 2000rpm. 1000rpm is ridiculously low.
Also, when cruising on the highway, I'm always close to 2000rpm. 1000rpm is ridiculously low.
when I said Im cruising at 1000 rpm...I meant that its usually slowing down in traffic or driving through a speed zone or something along those lines.
1) found the problem
2) attributed it to being a "normal" issue when comparing it along side two other GLKs that apparently had the same issue
3) linked the "kick" or "thud" due to "aggressive driving"
Can you believe this ****? (Pardon my language) but seriously..."normal"? And "agressive driving" ??? I barely touch the gas and its kick back at me...
I'm affraid that I'm just going to have to go dealer hopping until someone figures out what the hell is going on...
My only fear is that eventually the kickingis going to be very severe...and will finally irreversibly affect the transmission when the extended warranty expires in August 2016!!!
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I'm going to look back at the service records and see if the transmission problem I had was anything similar.
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It's Mercedes of miami...
There was one time where I took it there because I was hearing a loud door creeping noise coming from the door panel...again, they compared it to another GLK and said it was normal...
Then I took it in to the Mercedes in Van Nuys california (after a cross country trip) and they without hesitation ordered me a brand new door panel and it has been noise free ever since!
I told the service manager and assistant manager of this problem but neither of them really seemed to care...
I've been driving the car for 2 days since I got it back from the dealership and it still has that annoying problem...seems as if it's happening around 2nd or 3rd gear...same scenario: slowing down with my foot off the gas to a corner or let's say a red light, I turn the corner at about 1000rpms or so and press the gas...then "BAM" like a kick in the ***!!!...if the red light I'm approaching then turns green...same scenario!!! Some times the "kick" is badly noticeable but sometimes it's jolting...but in every circumstance it occurs...
And the dealer realized this, blew it over as "normal" with these vehicles...
Bottom line is that it never used to happen, and it started happening at around 57,000 miles +/- ...
I think I don't know what I hate more, the kicking of the transmission or the look and expression my wife makes when it happens...😕
Do you drive in sport or comfort? I have 2010 and never had this issue, but always drive in "S" (and 2010 model doesn't reset it back to C every time you restart the car).
When slowing down it downshifts without any jerks whatsoever.
Last edited by erlomd; Mar 16, 2015 at 12:00 AM.
Try googling how to reset your tranny. Since it "adapts" to your driving, resetting it might get rid of the jerkiness.
...
The joints, when 'flexible' absorb a lot of the transmission shunt, a surprising amount. It could be these....
Dealer says their GLK courtesy vehicle performs the same and that lag when changing gears is because I do not let speedometer go to 0.
I've read that these problems could indicate low fluid level and that the "S" mode helps because it causes the fluid level to rise. Since there is no dipstick, does anyone know how I can determine if the fluid level is low?
Dealer says their GLK courtesy vehicle performs the same and that lag when changing gears is because I do not let speedometer go to 0.
I've read that these problems could indicate low fluid level and that the "S" mode helps because it causes the fluid level to rise. Since there is no dipstick, does anyone know how I can determine if the fluid level is low?
Checking the transmission fluid is not a simple task. Of course the best answer is to have the dealer check it. But if you're a stubborn dummy (like me)
here is how I would do it:loosen the drain plug (being careful not to drop the plug in case fluid starts pouring) if no fluid drips out, I would suspect the level to be too low. Of course if it starts pouring out and you don't immediately re-insert the plug, now you have a mess, and will have to pump some back in

Good Luck!
Any input as to what may solve this will be very helpful,
Thanks!
I'm not certain what actually fixed my problem, but it was suggested that I use the "S" transmission setting and give the computer a chance to learn my driving style, which I did. I also had to replace the battery after making this post. The problem reoccurs now and then, so I am curious which of your repairs do you think actually fixed the problem, i.e. changing transmission mounts/fluid, resetting the ECM, or replacing the spark plugs? BTW, what plugs and gap did you use?
Thanks for sharing!!!
bzrks
Two of the six spark plugs looked oil-fouled. Replacing them made a big difference. This was a continuation of my troubleshooting on top of replacing the ATF and adding both Lubegard's Longlife A/T synthetic protectant and Dr. Tranny instant shudder stop. I don't usually put in additives in my car, so I can't confirm precisely that this fixed the shudder. It seemed to help.
Now I need to figure out why oil is entering my resonance Intake Plenum. I think it is the crankcase breather. I want to stop oil from entering my intake.



