engine and steering vibrations
#1
engine and steering vibrations
I have a 2010 GLK 350 and there are some small issues. Wondering if they are normal, or should I bring it to a dealer. EDIT: The car has almost 40,000 miles on it.
1. Engine sounds rough and there are vibrations. It's only noticeable when in gear (D or R), my foot is on the brake, and not pressing on gas pedal (e.g., letting the car roll). I can feel the vibrations through the brake pedal. Problem is worse in the morning when I first start the car.
2. Vibrations coming from the engine compartment when turning the steering wheel, but only when car is not moving or moving slowly (for example, turning in the driveway in D gear, or backing up and turning). Steering seems find during normal driving.
Could it be low on power steering fluid? How do I check that (there's no mention in the manual).
3. Takes a longer time (compared to other cars) for the steering wheel to return to center after I make a turn.
4. The gas pedal seems stiffer (takes more effort to press) compared to other cars. I'm hearing this is normal or Mercedes? Just want to confirm.
Thanks in advance! Other than these problems, I'm loving the GLK 350.
1. Engine sounds rough and there are vibrations. It's only noticeable when in gear (D or R), my foot is on the brake, and not pressing on gas pedal (e.g., letting the car roll). I can feel the vibrations through the brake pedal. Problem is worse in the morning when I first start the car.
2. Vibrations coming from the engine compartment when turning the steering wheel, but only when car is not moving or moving slowly (for example, turning in the driveway in D gear, or backing up and turning). Steering seems find during normal driving.
Could it be low on power steering fluid? How do I check that (there's no mention in the manual).
3. Takes a longer time (compared to other cars) for the steering wheel to return to center after I make a turn.
4. The gas pedal seems stiffer (takes more effort to press) compared to other cars. I'm hearing this is normal or Mercedes? Just want to confirm.
Thanks in advance! Other than these problems, I'm loving the GLK 350.
Last edited by lmf22; 04-06-2015 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Add mileage information.
#5
I didn't notice anything unusual. If I do hard acceleration, there's no vibration or rough sounds, and I get power instantly, even on a hill. The vibrations and rough sounds only happen when the car is in gear but not moving (or moving slowly without pressing on gas pedal; letting it roll).
#6
Member
I had been wondering about a bad engine mount but sounds unlikely so my first (next) thought would be to check transmission fluid level it may be a bit low ... I'm sure other will chime in with some other ideas..
#7
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GLK350, G55, AMG GTS, C63 507
I have similar issues, took it to the dealer they said nothing was wrong so I'm just ignoring it for now. The engine vibration got me worried at first, when the car is in R or D when i have my foot on the brake. I've also noticed that a result from this vibration a noisy rattle comes from the cargo area, i tried to figure it out and weirdly its the trunk door glass/window moving that causes the noise!
Mine is a 2011 GLK with 44,000 KM.
Mine is a 2011 GLK with 44,000 KM.
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#8
hi there , im having the same type of issue , I have a c250 2011 , on Saturday all of a sudden my car was making a strange noise when pulling up , sounded like there was something under the car stopping it from moving , I stopped the car and left it for a couple of hours whilst I went shopping , and re started the engine and seemed ok for about a mile , then I pulled up at my house and the whole of the inside of the car started shaking , I lifted up the bonnet and the engine seemed to shake left to right every now and then , it would run normal for 6secounds and then it started to shake again as in the engine was struggling to run normally , also when strolling along in the car, when it starts to (shake ) the car can be alittle jumpy, any idears on what this could be ?
thanks
thanks
#10
Member
As for the shake / rough running, I wonder if this may be a simple case of water in the gas with the season changing, this will cause very rough idle but will disipate and if your fuel filter gets saturated if may be ongoing, for a few cents throw in a winter water remover/antifreeze and fill her up see if that solves it.
#12
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2016 Golf R, 2014 GLK
It might be a waste of time but one of the things I'd probably try is resetting the ECU and TCM so that it can go through a whole new learn procedure.
Simplest way is to just disconnect the negative battery terminal for a while, but keep in mind you'll lose your personal settings in the vehicle - otherwise you can pull a fuse for just the ECU and TCM instead.
I was having strange issues similar to this on an Acura RSX Type S back in the day - a full reset of everything completely solved it.
Like I said, could also do absolutely nothing but it's an easy thing to try.
One final note - don't dry steer your vehicle. This is hard on the power steering system and could cause some of the issues you're experiencing.
You should only be turning your wheels when you're actually moving the vehicle.
From here... you could look at some more in-depth maintenance ideas:
-Valve adjustment
-Carbon build-up on the valves is also a possibility
-Have your cylinder compression tested
-Replace portions of the ignition system
Many possibilities, but I'd always start with the simple stuff.
Simplest way is to just disconnect the negative battery terminal for a while, but keep in mind you'll lose your personal settings in the vehicle - otherwise you can pull a fuse for just the ECU and TCM instead.
I was having strange issues similar to this on an Acura RSX Type S back in the day - a full reset of everything completely solved it.
Like I said, could also do absolutely nothing but it's an easy thing to try.
One final note - don't dry steer your vehicle. This is hard on the power steering system and could cause some of the issues you're experiencing.
You should only be turning your wheels when you're actually moving the vehicle.
From here... you could look at some more in-depth maintenance ideas:
-Valve adjustment
-Carbon build-up on the valves is also a possibility
-Have your cylinder compression tested
-Replace portions of the ignition system
Many possibilities, but I'd always start with the simple stuff.
Last edited by koalatm; 04-07-2015 at 12:32 PM. Reason: more ideas
#13
It might be a waste of time but one of the things I'd probably try is resetting the ECU and TCM so that it can go through a whole new learn procedure.
Simplest way is to just disconnect the negative battery terminal for a while, but keep in mind you'll lose your personal settings in the vehicle - otherwise you can pull a fuse for just the ECU and TCM instead.
I was having strange issues similar to this on an Acura RSX Type S back in the day - a full reset of everything completely solved it.
Like I said, could also do absolutely nothing but it's an easy thing to try.
One final note - don't dry steer your vehicle. This is hard on the power steering system and could cause some of the issues you're experiencing.
Simplest way is to just disconnect the negative battery terminal for a while, but keep in mind you'll lose your personal settings in the vehicle - otherwise you can pull a fuse for just the ECU and TCM instead.
I was having strange issues similar to this on an Acura RSX Type S back in the day - a full reset of everything completely solved it.
Like I said, could also do absolutely nothing but it's an easy thing to try.
One final note - don't dry steer your vehicle. This is hard on the power steering system and could cause some of the issues you're experiencing.
Thanks for the advice on dry steering. I never knew that! I will be careful about that.
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
I think 2 is directly related to 1. When you turn wheel it puts pressure on the engine causing rmps to drop slightly and causing the vibrations to amplify. However, I have no idea what causes 1, can be many many things.
3 is perfectly normal, that's just how front suspension is designed.
4 should be normal as well
3 is perfectly normal, that's just how front suspension is designed.
4 should be normal as well
#15
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Like I said, please keep in mind you may lose your personal vehicle settings in the process (things like memory seats, radio station pre-sets, etc).