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GLK350 2010 Sold C63 AMG 2012 Sedan Sold GLK250 2013
If you are doing this replacement on a GLK and your car has the option of the storage compartment under the seat then you will have to unbolt the seat and lean it back to get access the torx bolts that hold the cushion in. You will also have to drill out 4 rivets to remove the storage compartment or otherwise you won't be able to remove the seat cover. I Just thought I should share this since I completed my repair today. Thanks to the OG
Last edited by ramo80; 04-03-2021 at 06:24 PM.
Reason: typos
if you are doing this replacement on a GLK and your car has the option of the storage compartment under the seat then you will have unbolt the seats and lean them back to get access the the torx bolts that hold the cushion in. You will also have to drill out 4 rivets to remove the storage compartment or otherwise you won't be able to leave the seat cover. I Just thought I should share this since i completed my repair today. Thanks to the OG
Thanks for the tip. I noticed a scratch on mine and probably looking to replace in the future. I too have a storage compartment under the seat. But other than drilling out 4 rivets to remove the storage - is it better to drill out a round hole close the the torx bolts (so you can gain access) on the compartment. You will never see the holes anyways as it's underside. Basically - don't drill out 4 rivets and leave the storage compartment and drill out two round holes approx where the torx bolts are. Once you see get access to the torx bolts - unscrew and pull the bottom out. Would that work? What do you think? I don't want to buy a rivet gun to re-install back the storage compartment.
GLK350 2010 Sold C63 AMG 2012 Sedan Sold GLK250 2013
You will need to remove the storage compartment regardless because you won't be able to slip the seat cover off. I didn't want to drill them out either but i couldn't find a way of removing the leather with them in place. In short if you have a storage compartment you will have to unbolt the seat and you will have to drill out 4 rivets. You can buy a blind rivet set from Amazon for 20 dollars. Its not a major expense. It comes with a blind rivet hand tool and several blind rivet sizes.
Here is another tip for all of you. I ended up buying my seat bottom for a wrecking yard. I know that GLKs are not readily available in wrecking yards but the seat bottom "leather" is common with C class Mercedes. The frame is not common but the "leather" is. I bought a mint one with the whole frame for 150 CAD (110 USD ish). I just had to unmount and remount the "leather". Just make sure of the fitment before you buy and make sure you have the same option. The heated seat element is in the leather and not the frame/foam.
Last edited by ramo80; 04-03-2021 at 06:26 PM.
Reason: typos
You will need to remove the storage compartment regardless because you won't be able to slip the seat cover off. I didn't want to drill them out either but i couldn't find a way of removing the leather with them in place. In short if you have a storage compartment you will have to unbolt the seat and you will have to drill out 4 rivets. You can buy a blind rivet set from Amazon for 20 dollars. Its not a major expense. It comes with a blind rivet hand tool and several blind rivet sizes.
Here is another tip for all of you. I ended up buying my seat bottom for a wrecking yard. I know that GLKs are not readily available in wrecking yards but the seat bottom "leather" is common with C class Mercedes. The frame is not common but the "leather" is. I bought a mint one with the whole frame for 150 CAD (110 USD ish). I just had to unmount and remount the "leather". Just make sure of the fitment before you buy and make sure you have the same option. The heated seat element is in the leather and not the frame/foam.
Thanks for the quick reply. I may go the wrecking yard route then. What year C class would be compatible or year did you buy? You have a 2013 GLK250? Mine is a 2014 GLK350 - so that would be the same style as yours.
You will need to remove the storage compartment regardless because you won't be able to slip the seat cover off. I didn't want to drill them out either but i couldn't find a way of removing the leather with them in place. In short if you have a storage compartment you will have to unbolt the seat and you will have to drill out 4 rivets. You can buy a blind rivet set from Amazon for 20 dollars. Its not a major expense. It comes with a blind rivet hand tool and several blind rivet sizes.
Here is another tip for all of you. I ended up buying my seat bottom for a wrecking yard. I know that GLKs are not readily available in wrecking yards but the seat bottom "leather" is common with C class Mercedes. The frame is not common but the "leather" is. I bought a mint one with the whole frame for 150 CAD (110 USD ish). I just had to unmount and remount the "leather". Just make sure of the fitment before you buy and make sure you have the same option. The heated seat element is in the leather and not the frame/foam.
Circling back to this again. I had a quick look today and I can access the two torx screws with the storage bin not taken apart. Are you saying the storage bin rivets are actually mounted on the seat bottom bracket? Meaning I will not be able to pop the bottom cushion out even if I unbolted the two torx screws? Also you mentioned that you had to unbolt the whole seat? You did this so you can access the other two rivets that are hidden under the seat? Meaning you can only drill out the last two rivets by having the whole seat out or angled up for easy access and of course for easy install when you rivet it back.
GLK350 2010 Sold C63 AMG 2012 Sedan Sold GLK250 2013
If you can figure out a way to access to the torx then you don't have to unbolt the seat. I personally couldn't. You will need to drill the rivets to take the leather off. the compartment has it pinched. Taking the leather off is the only reason to drill the rivets. Once you unbolt the torxs the seat bottom and the compartment come up together.
Wanted to share my experience on the seat cover replacement. When the tear first started on our driver's seat, I found this post and quickly ordered the matching seat cover. However life got busy and I sat on the repair work until today. I did find a way to unplug the heated seat and avoid splicing wires. Below are some pics of the method used. Appreciate all the prior posts and comments as to tackling the cover removal and installation. As others said, this wasn't overly difficult.
As the tabs on the plugs do not flex, I got a long pick and carefully worked on the connection housing to pry the housing up over the plug tabs and rotated the pick to push the plugs out of the housing. The other thing to note is these two plugs snap together themselves and are then each connected in the plug housing via their tabs. In my experience, both plugs had to come out together. I then snapped them back together once the seat was ready to re-install and pushed them in to the housing until their tabs both clicked back in place. No before pics were taken but here's the finished results. Not bad for a 14 year old vehicle with 93k miles.
03-31-2021, 01:45 PM
