danielgdag

This doesn't happen every time, but sometimes it won't reduce gear when step on gas and transmission doesn't respond to wheel paddles.

Don't know if it's related, but also DTC code P0299 (Underboost condition) lights up sometimes, and car seems to lose power.

Any ideas?

Thanks!!

Plutoe

This aint one of those front yard DIY's---find someone with a copy of DAS and buy him dinner---problem solved!

ash333

@ danielgdag , did you ever fix your GLK? what did you do?
@Plutoe, so you're saying this isn't something "wrong/broken" with my GLK if I'm having the same problem (and I am) but rather an adjustment of some sort using the DAS?
1- What is happening then?
2- What sort of "adjustment" needs to be done? is it on the engine module or the transmission module?
3- What are the chances of this re-occurring and why does it happen in the first place?

My Car: 2013 GLK 250 Bluetec , 95K experiencing lack of kick down when cruising for a while on speeds higher then 100~120KM/H and suddenly trying to overtake a car, CEL comes on, car doesn't kick down, accelerates slowly.
After shutting off the car, car is back to normal acceleration kick down etc, until the same condition as above and same happens over again. CEL doesn't come off unless reset though!
The car at all states will rev above 2000RPM, so as far as I understand its not in "limp" mode, or is it?
Many thanks

ash333

Problem was a hair crack in one of the turbo hoses to the inter-cooler.

andreigbs

I was just going to suggest looking at the lower right hose (looking toward the engine bay from the front) going to the intercooler. They seem to like splitting.

You can tape it up and run it until you get the new hose. Good job finding it and likely saving yourself quite a bit of coin.

jcdammeyer

My 2014 GLK250 is going in for it's second replacement in 7 years of the left hose. Same symptoms with the paddle shifters not working. Must really get a code reader. I've read on a different posting that the iCarSoft MB II is good for the GLK250? I suspect the first time I use it to chase a code I'll save the money in dealer labour.

andreigbs

That reader should be fine for clearing CELs and associated codes. I'm currently still using Lemur's BlueDriver and that works just fine too.

I would take a peek from underneath and see if there is anything around that hose that could poke/rub/touch it in any way. I must be one of the few to still be on the original hose at 122k miles and 6 years later...

jcdammeyer

Thanks. You are very fortunate.

amanj

Hi danielgdag

Did you ever find a solution to this?

Mmr1

And I’m sure trans fluid is at the PROPER level, it’s also new as is the FILTER, and it’s the CORRECT fluid ?

calder-cay

Curious why you're responding to a thread that was started in 2017, and which the LAST reply is from June 2022, so almost 2 years ago?
Just curious

angryartichoke

Someone posts a new thread on a common topic: WhY DiDn't yOu uSe tHe sEaRcH BuTtOn

Someone searches and finds a thread relevant to their problem and posts in it: wHy aRe yOu rEvIvInG A DeAd tHrEaD

calder-cay

To further clarify. When you click on a thread you're interested in reading ...
And you scroll to the end of that thread (its last post), JUST BELOW THAT last post, you will see:

"Related Thread" ... and as you continue to scroll down, you are NOW in that other thread.
And if you tap Reply, you are accidentally now posting to the Related Thread.

Honestly, it's a 2-way street ... it's great for someone searching for info and can see common threads.

But, it's also a sometimes "not obvious" side effect of scrolling thru a thread and beyond it - you are now accidentally in another thread.
I know, I've done it before and you HAVE to be cognizant of which thread you're in.

And yes, THIS particular thread is a "Related Thread' to the one that is currently active "Glk not shifting to gear from time to time".

(sorry to go off-topic in this thread)