How to diagnose suspension noises?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
How to diagnose suspension noises?
I have a nasty clunking noise in my right front suspension.
I guess it could be the end links, but how do I tell if it's something else? Do bad ball joints make noises? Or do they just make the wheels wobble and affect handling? Do bad strut mounts make noise as well?
It sounds like a low thud, not a high-pitched «tock» (which, on past cars at least, was the sound made by bad end links).
I guess it could be the end links, but how do I tell if it's something else? Do bad ball joints make noises? Or do they just make the wheels wobble and affect handling? Do bad strut mounts make noise as well?
It sounds like a low thud, not a high-pitched «tock» (which, on past cars at least, was the sound made by bad end links).
#2
Senior Member
In the past on other vehicles I have checked ball joints by lifting the vehicle on the lower control arm until the wheel is off the ground and essentially un-sprung. Then facing the vehicle I put a broom handle or other long lever under the tire to see if I can pry it up and down without the rest of the suspension moving. If the ball joint is excessively worn you will see and feel the play in it.
I'm not sure if that will work on the GLK though. I'm not sure I would want to put my floor jack under a control arm and lift it.
I'm not sure if that will work on the GLK though. I'm not sure I would want to put my floor jack under a control arm and lift it.
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lac Ste. Marie, Quebec
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2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
Have a look at the right front strut. See if the fluid has leaked out. Lift up the boot and you'll see oil mixed with sand and road grime. If it's leaking replace both front struts at the same time.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The problem turned out to be a worn ball joint on the front lower control arm. Since the ball joint is non-serviceable, you have to order the whole control arm. I took no chance and ordered both RF control arms and will change these as soon as they arrive.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Interesting, i'll have to more closely inspect the wife's rocketship for this.
I think after a certain point in time (maybe 8-10 yrs) and 120k miles, it's probably best to just replace all suspension bits that you can afford. They're bound to be in some state of wear, and if you plan to keep the car a new suspension setup will restore that "new car" feel.
I think after a certain point in time (maybe 8-10 yrs) and 120k miles, it's probably best to just replace all suspension bits that you can afford. They're bound to be in some state of wear, and if you plan to keep the car a new suspension setup will restore that "new car" feel.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Interestingly, it was cheap. Both control arms + shipping + duties (I'm in Canada) for around 300$CDN.
And not some no-name chinese junk either : Beck-Arnley and Moog. Not saying they don't source out parts from China, but at least they are known names in the business.
And not some no-name chinese junk either : Beck-Arnley and Moog. Not saying they don't source out parts from China, but at least they are known names in the business.
#10
Senior Member
Actually the Moog problem solver line is made in the US/North America and their cheaper lines come from china. I found this out while replacing the front end on my old f150.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The boxes are home so I can't check, but I think one the parts is made in Mexico and the other in the US or something like that. The end links on my GLK are Moog problem solvers (greasable units).