GLK 250 ECU Update
#1
GLK 250 ECU Update
Has anyone had updated software installed on their 250? My technician is still tracking down a CEL due to a P2002. All sensors are in tolerances and his online resources instructed him to update the software. I'm curious if anyone else has ever had an update performed. Thanks!
#3
All I was told is it is the latest released software for the GLK 250. I'll inquire for more specifics. I think of it as there were tolerances that were completely fine when the car was new, with mileage some of those tolerances may need to changed to reduce possible CEL codes.
#5
I can press harder but all he said was it's the absolute latest update for the ECU. He certainly wouldn't have access to specific parameters but this much I can promise, it's going to be thoroughly tested by me.
#6
BMW did the same thing with their problematic twin turbo engine (don't recall if it was the N54 or N55) : they had wastegate issues that they «solved» by making open earlier, robbing the customer of engine power. Worse yet, they did this without telling them while, for instance, doing an oil change.
#7
Absolutely right, Hugo. I remember getting my Golf back after the first software update (it took a couple) and thinking I must be running with the handbrake up or something. It used to chirp the wheels in 2nd and 3rd even, if you stepped on it at the right time. After the update it could barely get out of its own way. I turned it in shortly after that and was sad that I had had the software update at all. Poor neutered Golf!
All I need right now is another excuse to justify tuning the X3d. Any real reason will do, from the AdBlue system to DPF "errors" I'll take whatever. A tuning company called DUDMD does awesome work on BMWs. They have a Stage 1 tune for $515 that nets you +40whp and +100 wtq. But the best part of that is it turns off the EGR, opens up the swirls flaps, makes the emissions system relax and prevents any further issues in that department. It might just be my birthday present, if I can't get an error to pop up
All I need right now is another excuse to justify tuning the X3d. Any real reason will do, from the AdBlue system to DPF "errors" I'll take whatever. A tuning company called DUDMD does awesome work on BMWs. They have a Stage 1 tune for $515 that nets you +40whp and +100 wtq. But the best part of that is it turns off the EGR, opens up the swirls flaps, makes the emissions system relax and prevents any further issues in that department. It might just be my birthday present, if I can't get an error to pop up
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#8
Absolutely right, Hugo. I remember getting my Golf back after the first software update (it took a couple) and thinking I must be running with the handbrake up or something. It used to chirp the wheels in 2nd and 3rd even, if you stepped on it at the right time. After the update it could barely get out of its own way. I turned it in shortly after that and was sad that I had had the software update at all. Poor neutered Golf!
All I need right now is another excuse to justify tuning the X3d. Any real reason will do, from the AdBlue system to DPF "errors" I'll take whatever. A tuning company called DUDMD does awesome work on BMWs. They have a Stage 1 tune for $515 that nets you +40whp and +100 wtq. But the best part of that is it turns off the EGR, opens up the swirls flaps, makes the emissions system relax and prevents any further issues in that department. It might just be my birthday present, if I can't get an error to pop up
All I need right now is another excuse to justify tuning the X3d. Any real reason will do, from the AdBlue system to DPF "errors" I'll take whatever. A tuning company called DUDMD does awesome work on BMWs. They have a Stage 1 tune for $515 that nets you +40whp and +100 wtq. But the best part of that is it turns off the EGR, opens up the swirls flaps, makes the emissions system relax and prevents any further issues in that department. It might just be my birthday present, if I can't get an error to pop up
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andreigbs (09-04-2020)
#10
Hugo, she’s good for another 30-40whp and probably 60-70wtq. And that’s with all factory hardware still attached. I’m sure with injectors, bigger turbos, straight pipes and so on she’d be good for 300+ hp. If you’re at all familiar with VW TDIs, that crowd could get 250+ hp out of a 1.9L and one turbo reliably.
It’s true that MBs aren’t necessarily seen as tuners’ toys but there are gains to be found if one looks and isn’t afraid to try things.
It’s true that MBs aren’t necessarily seen as tuners’ toys but there are gains to be found if one looks and isn’t afraid to try things.
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andreigbs (09-07-2020)
#12
It really saddens me to have to report the CEL is back on. After my testing I returned it to my daughter. She drove it about 25 miles and then the light came back on. I'm literally at my wits end with this thing. It's back at my Indy shop. I'll report back later. Pictures attached are from a general scan tool from a parts vendor. Wish me luck.
#13
Noooo!! So sorry to read this.
It's been 6 days since I cleared my code and it might be getting ready to come back if the timing is the same as yours. I'll be talking with OETuning tomorrow and get their take. I might just take the plunge as a preventative measure.
Good luck srb, hope you clear this up soon.
It's been 6 days since I cleared my code and it might be getting ready to come back if the timing is the same as yours. I'll be talking with OETuning tomorrow and get their take. I might just take the plunge as a preventative measure.
Good luck srb, hope you clear this up soon.
#14
Srb, are you on the original water pump? Knowing that the thermostat is electronically controlled, it may be that it's faulty intermittently. As in, it fails to open/close as directed by the ECU.
It almost seems like the confirmed CEL is for the water pump/thermostat issue, and as a result it negatively affects the emissions system. Have you ever noticed your water temp not being where it's supposed to be when the engine should be fully warmed up (87*C)? Or slow to warm up? The only reason I ask is if the engine thinks it's running too cool, it will inject extra fuel in order to warm itself up. This can create excess emissions to make the DPF sensors unhappy.
Just a thought, make sure your mechanic thoroughly inspects/diagnoses the water pump and thermostat.
It almost seems like the confirmed CEL is for the water pump/thermostat issue, and as a result it negatively affects the emissions system. Have you ever noticed your water temp not being where it's supposed to be when the engine should be fully warmed up (87*C)? Or slow to warm up? The only reason I ask is if the engine thinks it's running too cool, it will inject extra fuel in order to warm itself up. This can create excess emissions to make the DPF sensors unhappy.
Just a thought, make sure your mechanic thoroughly inspects/diagnoses the water pump and thermostat.
#15
Actually the water pump was changed about three weeks ago due to seepage. After the first code for malfunction he replaced it again thinking the part was faulty. The car heats up very quickly from the first start. Temperature wise I'd say it's operating correctly. Good thoughts though.
Last edited by srb1194; 09-14-2020 at 12:38 PM.
#16
I would advise your mechanic to also check the change-over valve for the cooling circuit.
See https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...lk-250-bt.html
See https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...lk-250-bt.html
#17
Another good thought and he had replaced that part on the last visit. Said he noticed coolant contamination in the lines and decided to change the valve to insure proper operation. Also mentioned that it is controlled by vacuum and it passed test procedures. What's next?
#18
Running out of ideas...
Hopefully he cleaned out the lines so that any buildup doesn't contaminate the new part(s). I would make sure all of the wiring and harness that plugs into the change-over valve, water pump or coolant tank is seated correctly. You never know, could be something simple like a wire that was not properly connected following some repair.
It may also be the coolant relay itself.
Edit: additional info found on the Sprinter forums, which I suggest all Bluetec owners become familiar. There are far more posts related to these OM651 engines and their quirks, problems, repairs and the like. See https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...threads/75317/ for starters.
Edit 2: see https://idpartsblog.com/2019/06/07/s...ode-read-this/ for more info. It seems this P261F code is a harbinger of worse things.
Hopefully he cleaned out the lines so that any buildup doesn't contaminate the new part(s). I would make sure all of the wiring and harness that plugs into the change-over valve, water pump or coolant tank is seated correctly. You never know, could be something simple like a wire that was not properly connected following some repair.
It may also be the coolant relay itself.
Edit: additional info found on the Sprinter forums, which I suggest all Bluetec owners become familiar. There are far more posts related to these OM651 engines and their quirks, problems, repairs and the like. See https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...threads/75317/ for starters.
Edit 2: see https://idpartsblog.com/2019/06/07/s...ode-read-this/ for more info. It seems this P261F code is a harbinger of worse things.
Last edited by andreigbs; 09-14-2020 at 04:32 PM.
#19
I remember him saying he cleaned out the lines but don't recall anything about a relay. I'm leaving him alone for a day or so to troubleshoot. After all I did before returning it to my daughter I was shocked when she called about the light. This may be it's last chance for continued loving care.
#20
No worries, every problem has a solution. Hopefully it's not too costly to implement. The vacuum operated water pump system is problematic for sure, and likely the source of your issues; I think that the DPF codes are secondary to this larger problem.
In other news, information about the MB Bluetec settlement is coming out. A new site is being put up for owners to submit claims in the near future (https://www.mbbluetecsettlement.com/) to be reimbursed to a degree. In addition, it appears warranty extensions and "fixes" are being planned, so MB may get to eat the bills for fixing your Bluetec after all.
In other news, information about the MB Bluetec settlement is coming out. A new site is being put up for owners to submit claims in the near future (https://www.mbbluetecsettlement.com/) to be reimbursed to a degree. In addition, it appears warranty extensions and "fixes" are being planned, so MB may get to eat the bills for fixing your Bluetec after all.
#21
Originally Posted by andreigbs
Running out of ideas...
Hopefully he cleaned out the lines so that any buildup doesn't contaminate the new part(s). I would make sure all of the wiring and harness that plugs into the change-over valve, water pump or coolant tank is seated correctly. You never know, could be something simple like a wire that was not properly connected following some repair.
It may also be the coolant relay itself.
Edit: additional info found on the Sprinter forums, which I suggest all Bluetec owners become familiar. There are far more posts related to these OM651 engines and their quirks, problems, repairs and the like. See https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...threads/75317/ for starters.
Edit 2: see https://idpartsblog.com/2019/06/07/s...ode-read-this/ for more info. It seems this P261F code is a harbinger of worse things.
Hopefully he cleaned out the lines so that any buildup doesn't contaminate the new part(s). I would make sure all of the wiring and harness that plugs into the change-over valve, water pump or coolant tank is seated correctly. You never know, could be something simple like a wire that was not properly connected following some repair.
It may also be the coolant relay itself.
Edit: additional info found on the Sprinter forums, which I suggest all Bluetec owners become familiar. There are far more posts related to these OM651 engines and their quirks, problems, repairs and the like. See https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...threads/75317/ for starters.
Edit 2: see https://idpartsblog.com/2019/06/07/s...ode-read-this/ for more info. It seems this P261F code is a harbinger of worse things.
#22
Running out of ideas...
Hopefully he cleaned out the lines so that any buildup doesn't contaminate the new part(s). I would make sure all of the wiring and harness that plugs into the change-over valve, water pump or coolant tank is seated correctly. You never know, could be something simple like a wire that was not properly connected following some repair.
It may also be the coolant relay itself.
Edit: additional info found on the Sprinter forums, which I suggest all Bluetec owners become familiar. There are far more posts related to these OM651 engines and their quirks, problems, repairs and the like. See https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...threads/75317/ for starters.
Edit 2: see https://idpartsblog.com/2019/06/07/s...ode-read-this/ for more info. It seems this P261F code is a harbinger of worse things.
Hopefully he cleaned out the lines so that any buildup doesn't contaminate the new part(s). I would make sure all of the wiring and harness that plugs into the change-over valve, water pump or coolant tank is seated correctly. You never know, could be something simple like a wire that was not properly connected following some repair.
It may also be the coolant relay itself.
Edit: additional info found on the Sprinter forums, which I suggest all Bluetec owners become familiar. There are far more posts related to these OM651 engines and their quirks, problems, repairs and the like. See https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...threads/75317/ for starters.
Edit 2: see https://idpartsblog.com/2019/06/07/s...ode-read-this/ for more info. It seems this P261F code is a harbinger of worse things.
#23
Well now after reviewing that information I believe the writing may be on the wall. Frankly speaking I'm (we're) not willing to continue to throw money at this thing. It's a fantastic automobile but at the end of the day, it's just a vehicle. That stuff scares the crap out of me.
There's an ongoing legal action in Canada similar to the one that has just been resolved in the US. Interestingly, Canada's goes a little further by including the following: "In addition, because it is colder than 10 degrees for extensive portions of the year in Canada, BlueTEC engines fail to perform their emissions cleaning functions and are substantially unsuitable for use in this country." 50 deg F is not uncommon to large parts of the US so if there's any merit to this claim (no technical info is included) the same could be said for most US BlueTEC vehicles living outside the sun belt.
Reading the Sprinter links posted by Andreigbs made me want to hide all sharp objects. Not in a good place right now..
#24
It's a real shame. If the technician doesn't find any revelations then he's resetting it and we're going to trade it in. That was actually hard to type. I love the little GLK but I don't have an infinite amount of time nor money to chase down the issues.
#25
Gents, the links I posted are for information. Information leads to knowledge, which leads to power. I agree that the Bluetec GLK is "just a car" but it's also quite unlike nearly all cars out there. You'll be hard-pressed to find an SUV with all-time all-wheel drive biased to the rear, with a fantastic safety rating, technology pkgs, the ride of a Benz, power and grunt that puts most V6s to shame and fuel economy in the mid 30s MPG.
I would caution you to stay balanced; moderation is key. I wish the emissions systems was less problematic, but it is what it is. There are software fixes for it, one of which I'm currently enjoying immensely. And with the recent settlement, MB will have to fix it themselves while extending a very generous warranty that likely covers a myriad of things, not just the exhaust system alone. This is in addition to financial compensation. I would opt to keep it through the settlement development, let MB fix what they want, take the money and warranty and then decide if you want to trade. Just know that trade-in values for our little trucksters are quite poor at the moment. Depending where you live, you're unlikely to get even $15k on a car that a few years ago cost upwards of $40k. And then what do you replace it with? What other SUV can return 34+ MPG, nevermind the other perks of the GLK?
I'm in the same boat as you guys; if I removed the current software I would be stuck with a CEL that's close to $1k to fix properly, but with no guarantee against future failures. So I'm waiting until the specifics of the settlement are implemented and MB sends me a "we'll fix it" notice. I might just let them replace the AdBlue tank and anything else they want to, in exchange for the 3 grand and a nice, long comprehensive warranty.
I would caution you to stay balanced; moderation is key. I wish the emissions systems was less problematic, but it is what it is. There are software fixes for it, one of which I'm currently enjoying immensely. And with the recent settlement, MB will have to fix it themselves while extending a very generous warranty that likely covers a myriad of things, not just the exhaust system alone. This is in addition to financial compensation. I would opt to keep it through the settlement development, let MB fix what they want, take the money and warranty and then decide if you want to trade. Just know that trade-in values for our little trucksters are quite poor at the moment. Depending where you live, you're unlikely to get even $15k on a car that a few years ago cost upwards of $40k. And then what do you replace it with? What other SUV can return 34+ MPG, nevermind the other perks of the GLK?
I'm in the same boat as you guys; if I removed the current software I would be stuck with a CEL that's close to $1k to fix properly, but with no guarantee against future failures. So I'm waiting until the specifics of the settlement are implemented and MB sends me a "we'll fix it" notice. I might just let them replace the AdBlue tank and anything else they want to, in exchange for the 3 grand and a nice, long comprehensive warranty.