Hello MBWorld,
I'm looking at a 2014 GLK250 with 118000 miles on it, I drive about 70 hwy miles a day and love the idea of 30+mpg. I went through the forum and as with any used vehicle there is good reviews and not so good reviews. I'm not going to ask should i buy it or not, what i would love to know is what i should look for/ask about/have checked out and then go from there with a purchase decision. Any help or information or suggestions MBWorld would have in helping me decide on this purchase would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx!
Kevin
https://www.courtesyvolvocarsofscott...30d1ce8855.htm

 

Do not, under any circumstances, buy a MB diesel built after 2006.

 

If you are seriously considering buying a modern Mercedes diesel with over 118000 miles on it you should ask yourself: "Am I willing to pay more than the purchase price in the next few years to keep it going?" Maybe you will get lucky and it won't be that bad. The emissions systems on these modern diesels are fairly complex and can be fragile. At that mileage you could be looking at a lot of carbon build up from EGR, a DPF or sensors getting near end of life, a DEF tank heater failure, or any of a number of different things that can cost in the thousands to repair.

There are some folks on this forum that will tell you that their high mileage GLK 250 is running great. Others will say that they had problems but were able to get around them with federally illegal tunes and emissions system bypasses. You won't find too many talking about all the problems they had because most of them bailed on the 250 and got something reliable.

In my opinion, the days of the bulletproof Mercedes diesel have come and gone thanks to the fault prone emissions systems.

For what it's worth, my gasoline GLK 350 rear wheel drive gets me 30-32 MPG on the highway.

 

I'm an owner with one of those fault free GLK250's. I plan on being buried in mine. Bought new, factory delivery and only 51K miles at this juncture. All my driving is long distance as I use another relatively fault free M-B purchased new in 1985 (190D) as my daily driver. With a 70 mile commute I'd tend to believe that heating up the exhaust system would likely eliminate, or certainly reduce, the chances of exhaust system problems. On longer trips I've consistently gotten 39+ mpg at pretty high speeds. It's a roll of the dice. I'd probably buy it for your kind of use, especially if "the price is right".

 

If you live ina state does not require emission test, then do it. With the egr dpf and scr delete, the om651 engine is pretty reliable

 

Welcome!

I think $14K is too high, even for dealer price. Mileage wouldn't scare me as far as engine goes; it's the emissions stuff that's going on 7+ years old worrying me.

If you really want it, that's another story. If it was me, and I really wanted it, I would offer no more than $12k out-the-door, but I know what I'd be getting into. I don't like that it doesn't have xenon adaptive lights, or that the front driver's seat has a tear that's been covered up. The CarFax history report looks decent, but the vehicle could just cough and sputter to death on your drive home. That's the chance you take with any used car.

If you're fairly knowledgeable and comfortable wrenching on your own cars, you may have better luck. But to me, you're better off finding something less complicated, with fewer miles, that can get the same fuel economy and is more reliable. MBs (and in general German cars) do not respond well to lack of maintenance, and if you're not able to do most things yourself it means it's going to cost you $$$ in the long run.

 

I have a 2014 GLK250.

Bought at 52k miles in 2016 and it now has roughly 100k miles. When I bought it, both O2 sensors had to be changed. The dealer agreed to do it as part of the purchase deal. A somewhat costly thing if you let the dealer do it, but if you buy generic stuff and do it yourself, not so bad.

My mileage is 95% city driving. With the pandemic, I now use the normally-congested highway to go to work though, because there is no traffic anymore. This might help.

One thing I do know, is that this is a great, great vehicle. Great torque, not too much power (I'm painfully aware of what I'd do if I had 100 extra horses...), great mileage, juste the right amount of luxury.

In close to 4.5 years of ownership, here's what broke or had to be replaced :

- Brakes. I don't consider this as a failure, it's maintenance.
- Fuel filter when the diesel fuel gelled big time; my attempts at starting the car finished killing the already-ageing battery. My fault, should've used the proper additives (Prolab DBF-4). It's maintenance anyway.
- Pass. side ball joint. Again, maintenance. I elected to replace both control arms. Both were very cheap on Rockauto. A DIY job.
- First actual real «issue» : AdBlue tank heating element. I have a thread on here somewhere. A 1k$ part from the dealership, but I found a not-made-in-China replacement for half as much.
- When it gets very cold (like -20°C), it sometimes throws a CEL because the sensor in the AdBlue tank doesn't read the proper level (the DEF is frozen, so the sensor can't «see» anything.). I clear it with my OBD2 reader, and when it gets warmer, it never reappears. That doesn't make the car doesn't go into limp mode, BTW.
- Lower turbo hose. Common thing to happen. Car went into limp mode, threw a CEL. The only part available is the OE one, an overengineered hose that I expected to cost a fortune. It didn't. Took longer to jack the car and remove the undertray than to replace the hose. Another easy DIY job. I have a thread on here as well.

That's it. Reliable as hell, comfortable, easy on the eyes and on the wallet. As close to perfection as it gets.

118k miles might be a but much though. Knocking on wood that when I get there, I won't have issues...

 

Another MBworld 1-post wonder. We're all wasting our time and knowledge on this one.

 

Why do you say that? Because he hasn't replied to every single reply so far? When I'm shoppig for a new car, it's normal for me to register on some forums and ask away.

 

What I read here is the 250 isn’t worth the risk and expense of keeping the emissions system running, unless you can bypass it. Good vehicle and motor, failure prone emissions system.

 

Purchased a 2015 GLK 250 last week; 61,000 miles, in pristine condition, super maintenance record/Carfax report - all scheduled maintenance done at MB dealerships. Looks like it was owned by snowbirds, spent winters in Myrtle Beach SC and summers in Albany NY area. Never saw salty Northeast roads, and a look at the engine bay shows it, looks almost like new, no corrosion whatsoever. I thought it was a rare find (and oddly purchased from a Nissan dealership). It was with a lot of mixed feelings that I traded in my 2014 X3 35i, with 93500 miles. It served me very well over the last 4 years, especially during my daily work commute. Very reliable, powerful, fun to drive, but getting up there in mileage and can only use premium fuel. I recently retired in Sept, and my wife and I am planning on doing a lot more long-distance traveling, up and down the east coast and elsewhere. Two things I was primarily focused on - gas mileage and reliability. I was almost set on going with Acura, or Lexus SUV, for the reliability factor (not so much the gas mileage).... but had also left open an Audi or MB diesel, for the gas mileage and durability, and build quality. Then the GLK appeared, and I could not resist. My wife owned a C240, before her current 2013 C300 with the 3.5 v6 engine, and both have been great cars, reliable, no major issues, save for the timing chain/ guide startup rattle (covered under recall) for the C300. When she test drove the GLK with me, she was like a kid in a candy shop - how much it felt like her C300 and all. She was instantly comfortable, all the controls almost identical to her car. I thought the young kid car salesman driving with us on the test drive was going to pee his pants while she was driving it up to 85mph on a two-lane divided crappy road. Honey, your not on the Autobahn! Had to tell her to go a little easier. But she was sold. And she is a demon negotiator, which got us 4K less than what they wanted. Paid $21,600.
We did not purchase any warrantees, it only comes with the CT state mandated 60-day full coverage. We've had very good luck with the 2 used MB sedans, and a few used BMW X3s, none of which had extended warrantees. I do oil / filter changes, and leave the rest to real mechanics. The GLKs have very good reliability overall, in my research, and I can't imagine this one would be any different, especially given its maintenance history and low mileage. That being said, after reading more about the 250 diesel in this site, it has me a bit more concerned about it now.... something that escaped my initial research. We won't be putting a ton of mileage on it (now that retired), save for a couple long trips a year. Guess it another roll of the dice as our other German autos have been.

Hugo - I know what you mean by what you might do with another 100 HP - that was my X3 35i,with 300 HP and 300lbs torque.... great engine and teases you to just go faster and around people But don't really need that anymore, love the quieter, more refined GLK 250 cruiser. Handles extremely well, too, though the steering is a bit lighter and less communicative.

The previous owner left a Service and Warranty addendum in with the Operators Manual. States that the warranty on the "Pressure Sensor" is extended to 10 years or 120,000 miles. The warranty booklet also seems to indicate that the following are covered for 8 yrs. or 80,000 miles:
*Diesel Oxydation catalyst (and/or Diesel Particulate Filter)
*Engine Control Module
*Instrument Cluster (malfunction indicator lamp)

All other emissions components covered 7yr/70K miles. The inservice date was 6/1/2015, so I assume that means I am still covered until 6/1/2022 or 70K for the full list of emissions items - ?

 

Good find! Try not to worry too much right now about the emissions stuff. Just do all the reading you can on it, so you are better prepared if/when you have to deal with any issues.

Most likely, the AdBlue (or DEF) heater in the tank which is at the back of the truck, under the carpet floor area, will fail at some point. This will cause a CEL and if not replaced (or software'd out) will make the truck go into limp mode. But chances are, with winter being nearly over, it's not going to happen until the heater is needed again.

The warranty coverage you speak of may still be valid, but expect local MB stealerships to try and wiggle out of it. They can give you the runaround that it's not one of the covered items that failed, it's something else that's NOT covered. That's why I said read all you can here on DPF systems and know what you might encounter.

I would advise you to invest in an OBD2 scan tool, something that can read trouble codes and reset the engine light if needed. A tool that can force DPF regens is a plus.

Use only 229.51 or 229.52 spec oils and quality filters (Mann, Mahle, etc.). Since you plan to do most light maintenance yourself, find a few local options for oils and filters, or keep a handy link for places that do. I'd strongly consider using idparts.com as your online supplier for most maintenance parts. They're highly trusted in the diesel world (initially VW TDIs, now most Euro diesels) and located in the NE as well.

Drive the thing like you mean it. Don't beat on it when it's cold, and when it's up to temp don't *****foot it. They're solid beasts that can cruise the freeways for hours on end, that's what they like most. They don't like being short-tripped.

You can also find a lot more useful information on the Sprinter forums, since the OM651 engine in our GLKs was also used in those. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress.

We're currently at 123K miles and no real issues to report, so hopefully that's encouraging.

 

Thank you for your response and all the great info and advice, it is much appreciated! My first diesel ownership, so I will definitely read up on as much as I can. I am pretty meticulous about maintenance, having owned BMWs over the last several years. Having also come from that side, am also a fairly aggressive driver, so will definitely not have trouble pushing the GLK. I like to cruise around 80mph when I can, and it seems right at home going as such.
I also like to change oil more frequently, like at 5 or 6 thousand mile intervals - as opposed the to 10K schedule. Will probably only be driving about 7-8 K miles/yr now that we're in retirement mode. And will try to keep the short trips down, can use my wife's C300 when available.
Do you recommend any additives to the fuel to help prevent, minimize, or clean the DPF?
-Andrew

 

While MB recommends no fuel additives, I have used several for various reasons and have not had any ill effects. Specifically for keeping your DPF clean, I would run a couple bottles of LiquiMoly's DPF Protector (this stuff) a tank or two in a row. Several folks who have had slight issues with the DPF (causing a CEL) have reported that this did the trick, more importantly it helps to minimize the deposit of ash in the first place. After a treatment, I'd do the next every 6 months.

Speaking of fuel: I would check the fuel filter's manufacture date. It should tell you whether it's been changed since the truck was produced. I believe the recommended change interval is 40K miles. When I did mine, I changed the hose clamps to the screw type so I can easily change it next time. A new one runs about $70 from these folks and well worth doing. They also sell filter packs, so you can get all of them at once and know it's been done.

Another thing I'd consider is a driveline fluid refresh. New transmission fluid, including torque converter and transfer case, and new rear diff fluid. I paid $400 at an Indy shop to do it and the difference in shifting was almost night and day. Especially if you don't plan to drive it much, it would be better to have all new fluids in there. The originals are 6+ yrs old and are likely to be less than optimal. No fluid is "lifetime" fill.

Oil changes: I have run over the 10k interval many times with no ill effects. Up to 12-14k miles at times. The caveat is that the oil was never low, I've always used the correct spec stuff, and I mostly do interstate travel at constant speeds. The point is, you're not saving money or your engine's longevity by changing oil early. If you're worried about it, visit bobistheoilguy for plenty of interesting reading on oils and intervals. Just don't go down the rabbit hole...

We also have a BMW, a diesel X3, and I maintain both unless I don't have the tools to tackle something. They are just cars, over-engineered which is typically German, but they drive great and require preventive maintenance to keep going. Despite the "high mileage" I wouldn't worry about hopping in the GLK and going on a cross-country drive.

 

Orocarty

note you will likely we eligible for the mb diesel lawsuit payout(partial?) And will get some new emission components for free soon as part of the settlement

 

Thanks again Andreigbs - appreciate your experience and knowledge. Looks like from the Carfax report that the Mercedes dealership replaced the fuel filter during the 50,000 mile service. It also has a brand new MB battery in it. Lots of tread left on the Michelin LTXs. So not much to do but get cruising I will see about getting a couple bottles of LiquiMoly, and start searching for a reputable Indy shop.... although I may hold off on the fluid changes until I get 70K miles, seems to be shifting smooth right now.

 

I'll take whatever we can get! I thought it was just Volkswagen who tried to circumnavigate the emissions, but guess Mercedes 'allegedly' did too, although they have not admitted anything as such.

 

MB did not lie about it when faced with inquiries, only to be proven as liars (which is was VW did, denying the whole thing). In addition, MB cooperated with authorities and have proved that a few parts and new software will "fix" the Bluetecs. I'm rather partial to my current software, so when the time comes we'll see what our options are.

As for shifting: sure it shifts nice, it's supposed to but to keep it that way, new fluid wouldn't hurt. It's not a "must do" but definitely good preventive medicine. Just don't go to a place that does power/pressure flushing. Not safe. Just regular drain and refill with a new filter.

Enjoy the truck, we've driven ours all across this beautiful country, visiting many of the national parks during a 2-week roadtrip. One of the best experiences, and the GLK made it happen without a hiccup.

 

Run! Get the GLK350. Very happy with mine. No issues.

 

Nope, really really liking my GLK 250. And I certainly won't argue if Mercedes sends me a settlement check for $3200, replaces a bunch of emissions components, and extend the warranty on much of that. Only stand to win, I believe. And be able to keep this for much longer than I even planned for! These are really hard to find, with lower mileage.... I did a 500 mile search, and only 8 came up on cars.com. I recently saw on Craigslist a finder's fee ad for the Audi Q5 diesel. In spite of all that VW/Audi went through with dieselgate... those V6 diesels are a rare find too, so much that people will PAY someone to find one for them. Keeping my GLK for a long long time

 

"5 starts remaining"

Wait until that shows up on your instrument cluster, in the middle of nowhere. That's when the buyers remorse will hit you, and you'll say to yourself "I should have listened to those knuckleheads on the forums."

 

I hear you. But I am willing to take that risk. If I was really risk-averse, I would have chosen to go with some boring Lexus, Kia, Honda, etc. I think it is a calculated risk to buy any used German car, especially without a warranty. But I have had a lot of luck with our last couple used Mercedes sedans, and I had three previous used BMW X3s. I think it really helps to be very selective, and stick to those vehicles with excellent maintenance records and histories. We never purchased any extended warrantees, just kept a separate fund for anything unexpected. Never got stranded or got into any kind of limp mode. Not to say that that couldn't happen. My last BMW engine was notorious for a failing water pump, heard many horror stories on forums how they failed so early on many... instantly dead on the road wherever you are.. but mine was still running beautifully at 95,000 miles. These forums don't always reflect the proportion of owners who experience little drama, and get many years of reliable fun, safe driving.
I appreciate your input, wish you safe and happy driving your GLK -

 

That's really the best attitude to have, in my opinion. Make an educated choice and be prepared for any consequences. And if push comes to shove, there are tuners out there who can relieve the sensitive and error-prone emissions system of its overbearing nanny state. It frees up the engine to breathe fresh clean air (no EGR), make more boost and power that burns more completely (less soot, less particulates in the DPF) and you don't have to worry about the system failing, stranding you somewhere.

It's also true that car forums are for enthusiasts generally, not the overall public, so the samples of stories you find on them are not representative of the average driver.

There are fewer and fewer Bluetecs on the road since Mercedes stopped making them in 2016 for the NA market. Finding a well-maintained one with lower miles is a difficult task. Same with Q5, Q7, Touareg and Cayenne TDIs.

We may end up placing ours for sale later this year, and converting the fleet to all BMW diesels. It all depends on the MB settlement and requirements of the fix.

 

Have to get my emissions inspection done within 30 days of purchase, then every 2 years, in our state, so a DPF tune may not be in the cards.... I guess it's one more go for the defeat device -
Some good news is I contacted the dealership that did regular scheduled maintenance for previous owner, and he send me a detailed copy of the 60 K mile service done in October. Transmission fluid and filter service were done, so will just have to see about the diffs and transf case fluids for now.

 

You should still contact a tuner and specifically ask about emissions testing. I've had multiple vehicles (gas and diesel) tuned that had to pass yearly OBD emissions test with no issues. If the tune is quality, everything that's required should show "ready" when the emissions computer checks it.

That's all they really check anyway, is the readiness of all the emissions monitors.