Honestly, most of the time I can't understand what you're trying to say. Definitely a language barrier.

Simply put, if you have a Bluetec engine, use MB229.51 or 229.52 spec oils. It really is that simple.

I didn't mention VW508 spec or higher because those are not diesel-engine specs; 507 however is.

The copy/pasted info you dumped about 229.52 and the "new OM642 diesel" is quite old, if not outdated, information.

Again, the only advice I'm giving is what is also found in your owner's manual, if you have a Bluetec diesel: use 229.51 or 229.52 spec oils. The brand is not nearly as important. Just change it regularly and keep it at the proper level and you'll be fine.

The rest of your word salad is tiresome.

 

Yeah, I think there must be a bit of a language barrier. What I'm trying to understand is this: My owner's manual says "229.51." Other documentation says either 229.51 or 229.52. My question is, is 229.52 an improvement over 229.51 for my engine or is the difference there to address a requirement of some other engine, and therefor provides no benefit for my application? Put another way, is there a reason a Scotsman would spend the extra money for 229.52 for an engine that originally speced 229.51? Oh, and I'm asking about the GLK in my profile, which is a 2014 250 BlueTEC Diesel.

 

You can use either, so if 229.51 is cheaper and more available, use with confidence. I have for the last 60k miles. Only recently went with a 229.52 oil for the heck of it. Probably going back to 229.51 at next change.

The updated 229.52 spec is geared more towards fuel economy improvement, and improved cold temp startup flow. Nice if you can afford and easily find, otherwise not necessarily worth the trouble. That is, unless you live in Canada and deal with bitter cold temps. Then it may be worth to use 229.52 oils during winter.

 

Dear Mijanboy,
There might be a lesson to be learned here. Be careful when using translation software online, especially when being rude or critical. You might have misunderstood the post you are criticizing and/or your post might be incoherent and you could look like a complete hloupý.

 

Perhaps the following lists will help. The first is a comprehensive listing of all current 229.51 approved oils. The second list is all of the current 229.52 approved oils.

By "approved" I mean they are officially licensed by MB as having met their certification/spec, which means if you were to have an oil-related failure your warranty would remain intact and MB should cover the repairs.

In the U.S. we have limited access to on-the-shelf oils that meet either of these specs. Pennzoil Platinum Euro L is probably the best priced and most easily found, there's also PP Euro LX and M1 ESP. There are maybe a handful of oil brands that you can find at NAPA or AutoZone for example. I typically order my oils and filters online from a trusted vendor, one that I've used for nearly a decade from back when I still had various VWs, Audis and MBs that were hard to shop for locally.

And since I service both our GLK250 and X3d, I like being able to get all of my parts from one place. Even better is when an oil meets both MB spec and BMW spec, so I can just buy 11L of one oil and call it done. Lately I've been enjoying Motul's new 8100 X-Clean+ (info page) in the X3d and I may use it for the GLK's next change as well. You can see how one oil is approved for multiple diesel specs, so for me that indicates a quality lube.

Look up www.idparts.com when you get the chance. They're up in Hingham, MA. I have no vested interest in them, other than to say they're great folks to do business with. There are of course others, such as FCPEuro, Bavarian Auto, German Auto Parts, ECS Tuning, etc etc.

Just pick whichever you like most and enjoy. I've also been using the top-side vacuum extraction method for the past 4 years and 75k miles; no issues to report. Oil changes are a breeze, a mess-free walk in the park.

There are many things one can overcomplicate or split hairs on, especially motor oils. I would suggest saving your time, energy and money, and just use any of the approved oil for your engine application that you wish, then worry about other more important things in life.

 

I wonder what the translator made of it ... Normally I check it back. But it was a long time and I was tired. So I sent it out of control. What I wrote was not a critique but a warning. Warning that it is not possible to follow the specifications of oils from other manufacturers. And I explained why. Now I had it backwards translate. It is a catastrophe. I didn't write anything like that. Translator completely changed the meaning. Moreover, this cannot be understood. I am sorry. I'll erase all this nonsense. How do you understand what I'm writing now? This is with reverse translation. It's tedious, but I want you to understand me. Let me know. Thanks

 

Hi. Last time I wrote it without reverse translation. And Translator probably translated it according to his mood. The translator translated complete nonsense. I'm sorry. I hope you understand me today.
Understand specification 229.52 as a facelift 229.51. The reason why is 229.52 = ever-stricter emissions.
More in the attached picture 1
In Europe, the price difference is not large
Figure 2.
Your engine doesn't need 229.52. The choice is yours. From my point of view, uselessness that gives the engine nothing.
PDF file: Oil specification by engine type

 

Hi. I had to delete that comment. Google had completely turned significance. When I put it in the translator today, I didn't understand it. Today I do short sentences and back translation. I hope it's better. I just wanted to warn you that you're wrong about something.
- specification 229.52 is not only 0w30. On the contrary, there will be very little in 0w30. Also, the 0w40 won't be much. Most will be 5w30. Because it is preferred by Mercedes.
"Again, oils that include a trifecta of diesel approvals (combination of MB, VW, Porsche, and BMW) are going to be your most reliable and safest choice.
Why should I follow by other brands of cars? Unable to follow anything other than Mercedes. Do not combine anything and invent nothing. Because you would unnecessarily risk the health of your engine. And nobody wants that. Já to taky nechci.That's why I wrote the last time the reasons why not to do it. Google translated it into utter nonsense. I really apologize for that

 

I'm fully aware of that; except that here in the U.S. the few MB229.52 spec oils you can find ARE 0w30. For example, PP Euro LX is 229.52 and a 0w30. Most of the 229.52 oils are 5w30, it's just that in the U.S. we only get a handful of 229.52 oils and they're typically 0w30. I think Mobil1 ESP can be found in 5w30 and meets both 229.51 and 229.52 spec. The viscosity and brand of oil is less important than the fact that it is approved for use in MB Bluetec engines.


I'm not recommending anyone combine or mix oils together; but I am saying that oils which meet multiple manufacturers' specs in one bottle are likely perfectly fine. BMW specs a LL-04 oil for their diesels, while VW/Audi specs a 507 oil. So if you find a bottle of oil from Mobil1 or Total or Motul or (fill in the blank) that meets all of those specs in addition to 229.51 or 229.52, it's probably going to an EXCELLENT oil. There are no risks to your engine using such an oil. For example, the Motul oil I linked in post #30 meets 4 manufacturer's oil specs, which makes it a great oil.

Quote:

That's why I wrote the last time the reasons why not to do it. Google translated it into utter nonsense. I really apologize for that.

Again, I hope you didn't misunderstand. My advice is for people to use the appropriate spec oils for the engine they have. You don't have to use MB-brand oil, just an oil that is approved and certified as meeting the spec. I've never used MB's own oil and I don't plan to, because MB doesn't make oils; it pays a big oil company (probably Mobil1) to rebottle it for them. That's not the point of this discussion.

The specs are what counts, not the brand and not the viscosity (to a large degree, since there isn't a ton of difference between a 5wXX and 0wXX oil).

 

Maybe someone could start forum threads on the best M-B 229.51/ 229.52 oils, and members could post oil analysis reports to debate the merits of each oil brand, viscosity, and of course the always controversial optimum change interval.

 

Reminds me of this:

How many forum posters does it take to change a lightbulb?

1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed.

14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently.

7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs.

27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs.

53 to flame the spell checkers.

41 to correct spelling/grammar flames.

6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" ...

Another 6 to condemn those 6 as ****-retentive

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "lamp."

15 know-it-alls who claim *they* were in the industry, and that "light bulb" is perfectly acceptable.

156 to email the participants' ISPs complaining that they are in violation of their "acceptable use policy."

109 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum.

203 to demand that cross posting to hardware forum, off-topic forum, and lightbulb forum about changing light bulbs be stopped.

111 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts *are* relevant to this forum.

306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty.

27 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs.

14 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URLs.

3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group.

33 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add "Me too."

12 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy.

19 to quote the "Me toos" to say "Me three."

4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ.

44 to ask what is a "FAQ."

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

143 to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs."

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 years from now and start it all over again.

1 to state that a light bulb does not emit light, it sucks dark. After it is full, it stays dark.

I have no idea how that will translate into Czech...

 

Thank you!

A (long) while back, GM introduced a Diesel with roller lifters. The carbon carried in the oil caused the rollers to fail and the cams followed. The problem was solved and new spec was born. The new spec oil worked fine in older flat tappet engines, but provided zero benefit over the old spec. Fortunately there was little if any price difference, and it wasn't long before most commonly available oils met the new spec.

 

Agreed John, I don't think we need that here. There are dedicated oil blogs and forums if that's what people need. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com sometime, as I hang out there pretty often.