Transmission
I ran out of there but I am worried. I asked them to check the fluid level but they said it's sealed. Went around and around but wouldn't check it. Did some research and found you can check fluid level by opening the sealed cap behind engine. I cannot find any videos for 2011 GLK and am worried to open a black cap I see behind engine. Worried not to cause an expensive damage. Any advice? Info on a specific video? much appreciated.
This dealership is posted price, the only addition to their advertised price is sales tax, registration and processing 2 $499,
$17k+ for a w212-II that's been in two accidents and qualifies for it's first service badge!!
This w212-II has 84,00 miles and they're asking for $20k+!
I ran out of there but I am worried. I asked them to check the fluid level but they said it's sealed. Went around and around but wouldn't check it. Did some research and found you can check fluid level by opening the sealed cap behind engine. I cannot find any videos for 2011 GLK and am worried to open a black cap I see behind engine. Worried not to cause an expensive damage. Any advice? Info on a specific video? much appreciated.
What is/ Who is RBM? I would definitely get a second opinion as anyone whose been even slightly inclined to know about the 7G tronic,especially a shop paid to work on cars equipped with them, would know that while there's no dipstick; you can check the fluid level by opening a certain point oin or in the transmission pan. If it's properly filled, fluid will spill out. The part you move to check the fluid is one time use, so you may as well all out service the transmission. The single use part is no more than $5 and that's on the high side. You'll need about 10 LIters of fluid ATF 134 OR ATF 134 FE, not both, check your car's vin on MB decoder, ctrl F for FE or fuel effiicient. To drain the Torque converter, which is what I think you mean by the highlited passages, it'd be easiest to have some someone with you to rotate the crank. Your car may or may not have the TQC drain, to my understanding.
Why do you want to check the fluid level? why do you think there's no fluid? Is it leaking? If it's leaking,; there's your problem right there.
There is a port behind the engine as you can see in this video.
I don't think I have a leak but when automatic transmissions "slip" often times the fluid level is low. I had another car and was told very strongly "the transmission is gone. You must replace it." I checked the fluid level and added to top it and drove that car for another ten years.
So I suspect the fluid level may be low because even sealed transmissions can have that especially if a tech or two decided to open the bottom as some videos show.
Anyway is much less expensive to check and verify first the fluid level before I spend any more money.
BTW, RBM is just the MB dealership I service my SUV at.
Where can I find used transmissions good to replace mine?
Any way first I want to verify the fluid level and then next step.




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Your dealership's responses to the problem - "probably the gear", "may as well change the transmission" and their refusal to check the fluid level (when that should be the starting point) are huge red flags.
Good luck, hopefully the fluid change will solve the issue.
Sounds like you're in the Atlanta metro area. Stay away from RBM of Atlanta, you need a good Indy instead of an MB stealership where they quote you half the price of a new car for most repairs.
I would suggest taking it to Solo Motorsports for a 2nd opinion. They've done good work for me and family in the past. They have a shop on Jimmy Carter Blvd and another in Johns Creek.




I ran out of there but I am worried. I asked them to check the fluid level but they said it's sealed. Went around and around but wouldn't check it. Did some research and found you can check fluid level by opening the sealed cap behind engine. I cannot find any videos for 2011 GLK and am worried to open a black cap I see behind engine. Worried not to cause an expensive damage. Any advice? Info on a specific video? much appreciated.
Might as well replace the transmission?
Glad you ran away. Don’t go back. Their logic is, “ Hey, he’s got an 11 year old SUV. Let’s see if we can find enough wrong with it to get him into the new car showroom.”
Shudder is just a sign that the friction modifiers in the transmission fluid are past their useable life. A fluid and filter change are probably all that is needed.
Didn’t see your mileage, but ours was at 155k miles and operating flawlessly with a fluid and filter change at around 75k.




Now your transmission:
Clutch residue is usually tan. Some in the bottom of the pan is not an issue. The transmission is designed to handle some clutch pack wear.
Metal comes in 3 versions. A very small amount of black powder is not a problem. Glittery powder means something wore rather quickly — with new fluid the transmission may be okay but watch for future issues. Flakes mean that something is failing. Flakes can clog small orifices and be distributed throughout the transmission. New fluid and filter, or even a pressure flush, probably won’t solve problems.
A good shop knows these things.
One reply mentioned oil changes in the front and rear differentials and the transfer case. That’s good advice. (The transfer case may use the transmission fluid, but I don’t remember). While you’re at it, check the universals and CV joints. On the road failures can get very expensive.
When our GLK died an untimely death in a rollover accident, we were planning on keeping it another 5 years which would put it over 300k miles. There was no indication that it wouldn’t make it. It had been meticulously maintained by me and 2 experienced pros. And it was operating flawlessly.
Good luck with yours.
And MB has touted for years that their transmissions have "lifetime fluid" and didn't publish scheduled mileage intervals for service, so most people never bothered to check or change it.
Other German brands are guilty of this as well, and it has resulted in expensive transmission issues outside the warranty period. Changing fluids - all fluids - regularly is cheap, preventive insurance policy to keep your car/truck/SUV/mower/etc. running well.
I believe 60k is a good mileage interval to change all of the driveline fluids. A good Euro Indy can do it for you if you don't want to get gear oil on your garage and yourself (it does stink).
OP, waiting to hear the result of your 2nd opinion.
I also use Blackstone Laboratories for engine oil analysis. https://www.blackstone-labs.com
They also do transmission fluid. (Do both at 218mi) They will send you a collection bottle and appropriate mailer to send in the USPS.
The suggestion to use an independent German auto shop, better if Mercedes, is excellent. Ask them to collect a fluid sample for you to send in.
And MB has touted for years that their transmissions have "lifetime fluid" and didn't publish scheduled mileage intervals for service, so most people never bothered to check or change it.
Other German brands are guilty of this as well, and it has resulted in expensive transmission issues outside the warranty period. Changing fluids - all fluids - regularly is cheap, preventive insurance policy to keep your car/truck/SUV/mower/etc. running well.
I believe 60k is a good mileage interval to change all of the driveline fluids. A good Euro Indy can do it for you if you don't want to get gear oil on your garage and yourself (it does stink).
OP, waiting to hear the result of your 2nd opinion.
I ran out of there but I am worried. I asked them to check the fluid level but they said it's sealed. Went around and around but wouldn't check it. Did some research and found you can check fluid level by opening the sealed cap behind engine. I cannot find any videos for 2011 GLK and am worried to open a black cap I see behind engine. Worried not to cause an expensive damage. Any advice? Info on a specific video? much appreciated.
Mercedes 7G is sensitive to fluid changes. Because the oil in this box was not changed on schedule, the situation posted here is to be expected. Again, unfortunately and regrettably.
Shuddering sounds like low fluid level, failed torque converter, or both.
There is no "flush" of transmission fluid. It is a drain and refill if you have it done at an MB dealer or an indy shop that follows WIS. If you specifically ask for, and pay for, a flush, this is a different animal that nearly no shops offer.
Options:
1. fluid change: this likely won't fix the problem on an old high mileage vehicle that has not been properly maintained
2. torque converter replacement: this might fix the problem, it might not
3. new (aftermarket rebuilt) transmission
4. dump the car and buy something else
And MB has touted for years that their transmissions have "lifetime fluid" and didn't publish scheduled mileage intervals for service, so most people never bothered to check or change it.
Other German brands are guilty of this as well, and it has resulted in expensive transmission issues outside the warranty period. Changing fluids - all fluids - regularly is cheap, preventive insurance policy to keep your car/truck/SUV/mower/etc. running well.
I believe 60k is a good mileage interval to change all of the driveline fluids. A good Euro Indy can do it for you if you don't want to get gear oil on your garage and yourself (it does stink).
OP, waiting to hear the result of your 2nd opinion.
No, front diff doesn't share fluid with anything. Torque converter and transfer case share fluid with the transmission on GLK.
Trans service is every 40k per the manual for '10-'12.






