Rascally Wabbit

Closing in on 100K miles on our 2WD 2010 GLK. Struts are on the mind & will be replaced when it is new tyre time next year. Asked the dealership for a quote. I was surprised when the list of parts did not include an upper bearing or whatever the correct name is. No rubber pieces (upper & lower spring seat, dust boot) not included but not a big concern about this. Looking at the online parts, the strut mount is 204-323-01-20 & ball bearing 204-981-00-25-64. I will guess that both are needed, one for each side. To me it is silly not to replace wear items such as the latter pieces when replacing the struts. Am I off the mark here or what? TIA!

Mmr1

Anybody going to a mb dealer to do out of warranty work is a Sucker for pain.
my mechanic wanted like 1/3 of what the mb dealer wanted for suspension parts , 5000.00, vs 1500. I went to FCP euro and my mechanic did it for a few hundred. The point is . Parts are parts , a few hours to put on. FCP has a life time warranty and check around for instal prices . MB is the biggest Rip off !

Rascally Wabbit

@Mmr1 I agree with you wholeheartedly. I have been twisting wrenches for over fifty years with a reasonable amount of success. I am still alive! Furthermore there are good qualified shops who can do the work. It is my wife's GLK & if she wants to use only the dealership, so be it. I always get the last words. "Yes, Dear" & we have been together for almost thirty years- must be doing something right this time around. Perhaps if she decides to sell it (unlikely) a buyer will appreciate that the GLK was dealer maintained & give a premium for it. But back to the question I raised. At a minimum my opinion is that the upper bearing should be replaced along with the struts & perhaps a couple of pieces which deteriorate with age. Currently I am close to the finish of replacing the struts on our Z3 Roadster where I have replaced rubber pieces as well as the upper mounting plates along with the struts. I was very surprised that the passenger side bearing plate has noticeable play, perhaps an eighth of an inch whereas the other side did not. The Roadster has less than 40K miles on it & yes, one of the front struts was leaking.

Mmr1

I replaced my mounts and everything else, Since you’re in there doing the job , now is the time to do the mounts . Or they could wear and make noise later . I replaced everything because I had a noise that was bothering me.

Rascally Wabbit

@Mmr1, could you be more descriptive as to what parts you replaced? Yes, the struts but I am somewhat confused by the description of the other parts in this link.
https://www.mbdirectparts.com/v-2010...and-components
The ball bearing & the top strut mount are shown separately which from my experience on other vehicles is usually combined. The dust shield & the upper & lower mounts are possibly rubber which can deteriorate with age so to replace them is a toss up. The cost is minimal so why not. The nut is a one time use item so its replacement is a no brainer. Another repair while the suspension is apart is to replace what the dealership calls a thrust rod bushings which is actually the lower control arm bushing. One has started to fail so it goes on the list. Anything else? TIA!

Mmr1

Yes my control arms were replaced and a bit loose . I couldn’t replace just the bushing , it was the complete control arm. Actually I replaced everything with a bushing. FCP has different kits, and they sell things individually. I’ll have to find my receipt . Only 77000 mostly city roads. But now it’s all new

andreigbs

Don't overlook tie rods, both inner and outer. I had a clunking noise on the front end for quite some time, especially when cold. Replacing inner and outer tie rods fixed it.

You can check their state by jacking up the front wheels off the ground and trying to wiggle the wheels. If there is any play, it's the tie rods (not the wheel bearings, which would make an awful noise if they were bad).

Rascally Wabbit

@andreigbs, a good suggestion. Not only tie rods but the lower ball joint can be tested easily. I do remember many a time of supporting the lower control arm with a floor jack on vehicles of long ago when RWD was the norm. When lifted, a pry bar was placed underneath the tyre & levered to determine if there was any vertical movement. Both upper & lower ball joints could be checked in that manner. Follow that up with the tie rod ends when both wheels are off the ground & hands at 3 & 9 on the road wheel to check for play. Ah yes, the good old days!
@Mmr1, I will refrain from providing you with a good laugh by not disclosing what the dealership quoted me for the replacement of the "thrust rod bushing" which is actually the upper control arm inner bushing. It is a press fit bushing which is not difficult to install once the arm is removed. Before It goes into the shop, which will be at least a year away, I will do a thorough check over of the mentioned suspension pieces after which a new "realistic" estimate of repairs will be created.
One of my criticisms about this particular dealership which is only one of many dealerships owned by a large corporation is that no discounts are given for parts if you are a member of the MB club. BMW does it & back in the day of driving Saabs, I was given a discount not only on parts purchased at the counter but also on parts needed for repairs. My how the world continues to change & not always for the better.