GLK 250 transmission judder ~2000 rpm
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Joined: Dec 2016
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From: NY
GLK250
GLK 250 transmission judder ~2000 rpm
Been reading up on this issue trying to decide if I should try get it fixed or live with it:
2015 GLK 250
175K miles (had from new)
90 mile daily commute, all highway
Had regular engine oil changes but never changed/touched the transmission oil (as believed it was lifetime sealed, until reading up)
Only issue I had since new was with DPF, which was replaced under warranty five years back. Since then no codes or CELs, literally a perfect car.
Only notice the judder with light throttle (usually cruise control), rolling into long hills. Around 1800-2000 rpm, the display indicates the transmission is in D7 (auto) and stays in D7. Feels like a clutch spring judder, but weirdly the transmission does not change gear. Just judders for a second or two and then carries on in D7. I can avoid the judder by down shifting manually or pushing on the accelerator to force a downshift through that rev range.
It's been like this a couple years, and I've been putting off touching it as most of the time I don't notice it, and it hasn't gotten any worse over time.
But wife really loves the car and wants to keep it (in her mind forever), so I'm thinking about getting a shop to change the transmission fluid, clean throttle body, and even put a new torque converter in it if necessary...
Any thoughts on order of investigations or things to try. The MB dealers round here are complete c#n%s so I've been putting it off, but would like others thoughts if it's ok to ignore, or if I really should invest some cash to keep her running.
Thanks all for any suggestions.
2015 GLK 250
175K miles (had from new)
90 mile daily commute, all highway
Had regular engine oil changes but never changed/touched the transmission oil (as believed it was lifetime sealed, until reading up)
Only issue I had since new was with DPF, which was replaced under warranty five years back. Since then no codes or CELs, literally a perfect car.
Only notice the judder with light throttle (usually cruise control), rolling into long hills. Around 1800-2000 rpm, the display indicates the transmission is in D7 (auto) and stays in D7. Feels like a clutch spring judder, but weirdly the transmission does not change gear. Just judders for a second or two and then carries on in D7. I can avoid the judder by down shifting manually or pushing on the accelerator to force a downshift through that rev range.
It's been like this a couple years, and I've been putting off touching it as most of the time I don't notice it, and it hasn't gotten any worse over time.
But wife really loves the car and wants to keep it (in her mind forever), so I'm thinking about getting a shop to change the transmission fluid, clean throttle body, and even put a new torque converter in it if necessary...
Any thoughts on order of investigations or things to try. The MB dealers round here are complete c#n%s so I've been putting it off, but would like others thoughts if it's ok to ignore, or if I really should invest some cash to keep her running.
Thanks all for any suggestions.
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2013 glk 350
Any visible signs of oil of a possible leak? What if it was simply low on fluid ! What I have heard is if you never changed the fluid, if you do it when it’s old it could get worse. Once I took an un drivable transmission and got a few more years by putting in the heaviest gear oil I could get . At this point yours still works, I would check if it’s actually full.
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
Change it now. You're two changes behind. Be sure you drain the converter. Then, reset the adaptations so It can relearn the best way to shift.
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From: NY
GLK250
Hey Mmr1,
No signs of a leak anywhere, and sure it could be low, but looks like the process for checking the level involves lets oil out from underneath as there is no dipstick/access from above (
). At that point, might as well change the oil and replace the filter, no?
I also heard horror stories about changing the transmission oil on high mileage cars making them much worse - exactly my point about leaving it be, given it's been juddering for a couple years. Fine with me if it stays exactly the way it is another 170K!
No signs of a leak anywhere, and sure it could be low, but looks like the process for checking the level involves lets oil out from underneath as there is no dipstick/access from above (
I also heard horror stories about changing the transmission oil on high mileage cars making them much worse - exactly my point about leaving it be, given it's been juddering for a couple years. Fine with me if it stays exactly the way it is another 170K!
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From: NY
GLK250
Indeed, that's an option. The dealer wants $900 to change the oil, but as discussed, not sure that has anything to do with the judder and does come with risks of it's own....
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
That's outrageous.
Very likely it is the cause. Less sure is if the change will help or not.
Risks? You could be wasting your money, or I suppose it is possible you could accelerate the inevitable, or, you could save it from destruction and cure the problem. Sure it's crap shoot. One thing for certain; if you do nothing it won't get any better.
not sure that has anything to do with the judder
and does come with risks of it's own....
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
John CC is spot on - with modern automatic transmissions, changing the fluid is the number one way to keep the car on the road for many more years. It's literally the cheapest "insurance" you can buy on your car's longevity. It costs very little, isn't difficult to DIY, and takes a lot less time and money than shopping for a replacement car.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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2013 glk 350
Pay someone to check it, it involves running The motor until the Transmission gets to a specific temperature, monitor the temp by plugging a scanner into the ubd port, then they open the drain and measure the level hight. I’m not sure how the last measurement part is done without loosing fluid, but I was told it can be done. ( or maybe it can’t ) without the fluid draining out. Mb and their stupid “sealed” transmission that you can’t check level of oil.
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
There is a standpipe on the oil drain. The correct level is to the top of the stand pipe. If you open the plug and nothing comes out, it is either OK or too low. You need to add some (pump it in through the drain) until some comes out.
All that is enough work that you might as well change it, given that you have already missed two change intervals! There's really no reason to check the level unless you have a leak.
All that is enough work that you might as well change it, given that you have already missed two change intervals! There's really no reason to check the level unless you have a leak.
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From: WI
GLK 250
There is no "lifetime" fluid, it was marketing hype. All lubes eventually diminish and must be replaced. I replaced the OE drivetrain fluids at 62K miles and again last year, at 128K miles. Front and rear diffs, transfer case and transmission.
Have it done and you'll notice significantly smoother shifting and operation in general.
Now, as to the shudder feeling up slight inclines in top gear: most likely the locking/unlocking of the torque converter is what you're feeling. You won't feel it in lower gears as torque is less at higher rpms and the TC is locked. I'd say it's perfectly normal since I've always felt that and I'm quite in tune with my vehicles. I will say, however, that the shudder is always significantly less noticeable with new drivetrain fluids.
FWIW, I pay my Indy to do the fluids and it was about $900 last time. If that's what the dealer charges, then use them to do it. You'll have warranty on the labor for at least 1yr/12k miles at most places for this type of work.
Have it done and you'll notice significantly smoother shifting and operation in general.
Now, as to the shudder feeling up slight inclines in top gear: most likely the locking/unlocking of the torque converter is what you're feeling. You won't feel it in lower gears as torque is less at higher rpms and the TC is locked. I'd say it's perfectly normal since I've always felt that and I'm quite in tune with my vehicles. I will say, however, that the shudder is always significantly less noticeable with new drivetrain fluids.
FWIW, I pay my Indy to do the fluids and it was about $900 last time. If that's what the dealer charges, then use them to do it. You'll have warranty on the labor for at least 1yr/12k miles at most places for this type of work.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I'll add that the top-off should be done with the fluid at 40°C (measured by a plug-in two-way scanner, or estimated by using an IR thermometer aimed at the pan, or even just feel the pan to gauge the temperature in a pinch).
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GLK250
Just to follow up on this, I got an independent shop quote for $900 for the transmission/torque convertor oil change, which I thought was high, so I took it into the main Mercedes dealer in Manhattan. Their workshop head advised me not to change the oil given the high mileage, saying it would do more harm that good.
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
That's an old wives' tale. The absolute worst thing that could happen is the transmission will fail tomorrow instead of next month. On the other hand, there are many cases where it solved problems and prolonged the life of the transmission. If you have basic skills and tools, and patience, you can do it yourself. Might cost all of $150 for everything.
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From: NY
GLK250
That's an old wives' tale. The absolute worst thing that could happen is the transmission will fail tomorrow instead of next month. On the other hand, there are many cases where it solved problems and prolonged the life of the transmission. If you have basic skills and tools, and patience, you can do it yourself. Might cost all of $150 for everything.
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From: South Texas
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
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2011 GLK350
I also suggest you change the transmission oil and drain the torque converter. Now if you are worried about it messing up after the oil change then buy the torque converter and put it in with the new oil change. Problem solved. However if I was you I would definitely do the torque converter flush and change the oils. Don't forget diff oils too.
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John CC
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
If you eat at MacDonalds twice a day for 10 years and develop diabetes, do you think your doctor would advise against changing your diet?
This guy has been doing fairly well (may even be our very own Andreigbs - who knows?).
https://www.foxnews.com/food-drink/w...y-day-50-years
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
If you eat at MacDonalds twice a day for 10 years and develop diabetes, do you think your doctor would advise against changing your diet?
This guy has been doing fairly well (may even be our very own Andreigbs - who knows?).
https://www.foxnews.com/food-drink/w...y-day-50-years
Last edited by MBKLUE; May 2, 2023 at 10:57 AM.
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2015 glk 250
So I too have the torque converter shudder, nothing bad but wish it was not there. Changed the transmission fluid and the shudder seems to have subsided some what. So I happened on a utube ad foe an additive in a red toothpaste like container with a name like shudder lube. Reports were outstanding and has an 80 percent success rate. Plan to order up a $30.00 tube and give it a go. Not sure how I will add it to my 15 GLK
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I think the stuff you're referring to is Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fixx (under $14 from Amazon, and quite a bit less from Walmart for some reason). I'm not normally much of a fan of snake oil, but I've had really good luck with the LubeGard products, though I haven't had to use them in my last two cars (a BMW 5-series, and my '11 GLK). If I did have a shuddering TC, the Shudder Fixx (sic) would be the first thing I'd try (but that's mainly because I'm cheap and lazy). And of course, I should mention that it would be prefaced on the transmission fluid being very clean. If your car has a typical number of miles, and it's had one fluid "change" (normally a drain-and-fill, which results in far less than a 100% fluid change) I'd simply do another first and see what happens. New tranny fluid is probably the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy, and is critical to keeping the weakest link in your car's drivetrain living for many years / miles.
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
One post ... gotta like forums sometimes, just for the entertainment value - especially "oil threads". Some forum admins kill oil threads early on.
If any additive miraculously solved some typical issue for countless folks, it'd be in the news over and over.
Just for fun and no profit, I did a proper 'Net search for the product and the only positive result ( it's all just opinion of course) is an (yep - oil thread) thread out at Bob is the oil guy from 2011 ... all other hits are product listings at auto parts stores, and of course, the manufacturer. Not convinced.
If any additive miraculously solved some typical issue for countless folks, it'd be in the news over and over.
Just for fun and no profit, I did a proper 'Net search for the product and the only positive result ( it's all just opinion of course) is an (yep - oil thread) thread out at Bob is the oil guy from 2011 ... all other hits are product listings at auto parts stores, and of course, the manufacturer. Not convinced.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
CC, FWIW I look for feedback for something like this on Amazon. Generally for a mainstream product like this one, there are a host of reviews, and it's pretty clear that most of them aren't from bots.
on Amazon - this one has about 3,500 (there are many more thousand reviews on other iterations of the product), averaging 4.5 stars. I've read through a lot of them (in the past), and it's clear that the stuff does work for a significant percentage of those who use it. And yeah, there are plenty of reports from those who it didn't work for either, but given the complexity of a modern automatic tranny, and the (lack of) cost and time required to try this approach, I'd say go for it. If it doesn't work, you're out the cost of a couple lattes and 10 minutes. If it does, you're a genius. ;-)
on Amazon - this one has about 3,500 (there are many more thousand reviews on other iterations of the product), averaging 4.5 stars. I've read through a lot of them (in the past), and it's clear that the stuff does work for a significant percentage of those who use it. And yeah, there are plenty of reports from those who it didn't work for either, but given the complexity of a modern automatic tranny, and the (lack of) cost and time required to try this approach, I'd say go for it. If it doesn't work, you're out the cost of a couple lattes and 10 minutes. If it does, you're a genius. ;-)
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2015 glk 250
So guys it has been about 10 days and 200 kilometres since I had my shop change out the transmission oil on my 2015 GLK 250 with 126,00 km showing on the dial. I was af first disappointed that there was no immediate improvement regards to the shudder however today I had to really try and concentrate to notice any sign of an abnormal shudder . I’d say the problem has been resolved with the fluid change. The shop used Molly as the replacement oil which I was only made aware after the fact. Now debating on wether to leave as is , provide another tranny fluid change to get the residual freshened up with proper MB fluid or add a tube of Lubeguard for added help. Fluid is crazy expensive up here in Nova Scotia.
