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Finally it has come... I noticed today my GLK250 dropped a few engine oil drops on the garage floor, and yes, it was all over the undercover. Didn't remove the undercover yet, but I guess it would look much serious inside. It is not surprising as the car is 10 years old (2013), and reaching 87,000 miles, but disappointed by that it happened right after I imported the car to US along with my relocation. I recently moved to US (Greater Seattle Area, WA) and no idea how much would it cost in here to repair oil leaks even in ballpark. Any experience or estimation?
Leaks are not visible from the top, so it seems like happening bottom of the engine.
No one is going to be able to give you actionable information based on what you posted. Some fluid is leaking somewhere, but beyond that, it's a mystery.
Dropping the splash guards underneath is the bare minimum you're going to have to do to start the process of finding the source. Even if you can ID the source from looking into the engine compartment (very possible) you're going to want to clean up those plastic panels anyway. It's utterly simple to get them on and off (thanks to MB build quality and design tolerances).
Thanks all for the feedback. I agree. I was too rushy posing this thread, but I could not remove the cover as I didn't receive the ramps yet that I ordered. Will report back after checking inside the cover!
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by uniplexed
It is not surprising as the car is 10 years old (2013), and reaching 87,000 miles, but
Our 2014 GLK has about that many miles with no leaks. We have a 2001 Jeep with about 140,000 miles with no leaks. Before we sold it, my wife had a 2000 E320 4door with over 300,000 miles with no leaks. Fingers crossed all stay that way.
So, I wouldn't say it's "not surprising" ... so definitely get it checked out before it gets worse and more expensive to fix.
Thank you all, so I could not wait for the shipment, so cancelled it and picked Rhinoramps from a near O'reilly. Removed the undercover, and identified the root cause. Like Odd Piggy mentioned above, it turned out to be a simple issue. The engine oil drain plug was leaking the oil. From its look, the rubber washer has a problem; actually, I recently got it oil changed right before coming down to US. Seems like they didn't use the right-sized washer as it sworn around the drain bolt. Now, do you have any advice for me to replace the washer without draining the oil, or fully exchanging the oil? I am not very confident about speed of my hands.
Also, it was actually good to check the engine condition. Except the drain plug, engine and transmission were unbelievably clean, like calder-cay's testimonial.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Most auto makers of modern cars require the replacement of the washer at every oil change.
It's my experience, the washer is made of copper (vs rubber), and the drain plug requires a specific torque value to crush the washer to create a proper seal.
The washer, once crushed, MUST be replaced. I buy a 10 pack at the auto parts (lots of oil changes ) ... and I bring the washer and plug to ensure I get the correct size.
Last edited by calder-cay; Aug 19, 2023 at 11:15 PM.
Most auto makers of modern cars require the replacement of the washer at every oil change.
It's my experience, the washer is made of copper (vs rubber), and the drain plug requires a specific torque value to crush the washer to create a proper seal.
The washer, once crushed, MUST be replaced. I buy a 10 pack at the auto parts (lots of oil changes ) ... and I bring the washer and plug to ensure I get the correct size.
Thank you for the advice! In fact, the gasket currently installed is rubber one, and like you said, it supposed to be copper one. I just picked this one and waiting for engine cooled down: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...n+gasket&pos=0
One engine cooled down, this is what I am going to do. How hard can it be? lol:
The gasket should be a bit larger than the drain plug flange. They come in 14mm ID x 20mm OD and 14mm ID x 22mm OD. They might both work. The aluminum ones work, too, if you can’t find copper.
I've been using one of these on my Gasser for a few years. Very pleased. Virtually no mess and no sealing ring change. Easy to drain a small amount if you over-fill during an oil change or want to get a small sample for oil analysis. Don't recall if it was this exact size and probably a different size for a Diesel. If you get your oil changed at the dealer you probably don't want this.
If there's any grit where the washer meets the pan, or gets on there in the process, or baked on rubber, that could be problematic even with a new washer; I would just drain it, thoroughly clean the surface, install new washer and/or plug, then just pour oil back in. Would only take an extra couple minutes. Or take your chances...
Last edited by arocarty; Aug 21, 2023 at 06:11 AM.
Repair done (as demonstrated in the YouTube video above; actually I could spill less oil then those folks) and no oil leak found even after some intensive test drive. Thanks all!
Used this gasket: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...n+gasket&pos=0
I'd say it might be a good idea to get yourself a vacuum oil extractor and just do top-side oil changes. The filter is up there anyway, no need for ramps or jacking it up to change the oil. Easy peasy and it gets virtually all the old oil out.
Been doing it this way for many years and thousands of miles, no issues. More importantly, no pesky leaks to worry about. It doesn't replace inspecting the underside from time to time, but it sure makes oil changes easy and kind of fun.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by MBKLUE
I've been using one of these on my Gasser for a few years. Very pleased. Virtually no mess and no sealing ring change. Easy to drain a small amount if you over-fill during an oil change or want to get a small sample for oil analysis. Don't recall if it was this exact size and probably a different size for a Diesel. If you get your oil changed at the dealer you probably don't want this
Interesting. The first time I've seen something like this is when I changed the oil in our zero turn, but never on a car/truck. It makes sense, if you're constantly changing oil on your vehicle, for convenience sake.
Oil change hose on zero turn - it's about 6" + inches long. The source end is screwed in where a drain plug would be ... (it makes sense on this mower, because you can't get to the drain plug).
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by uniplexed
Repair done (as demonstrated in the YouTube video above; actually I could spill less oil then those folks) and no oil leak found even after some intensive test drive. Thanks all!
Used this gasket:
Good job! Nothing like a quick and easy fix!
And yea, proper gasket.
If I only changed oil once every three years I would still want these on all my cars. No hot oil getting onto my hand, more controlled flow, no mess on the floor, no sealing washer replacement, no tool needed, no risk of over-tightening the plug once it's on, you cut any hose length you find convenient to use, etc.
Only two circumstances I would not use them... if the standard drain plug points directly down to the road then installing this, which is slightly longer, might increase the risk of the drain plug getting "tagged" by a rock or something like that. Other scenario is where I want to install an aftermarket magnetic drain plug which some of my cars did not have. Another safety measure and an eye opener/heads-up if you find metallic bits on the plug magnet. I seem to think the GLK has a magnet in the sump but not certain.
Originally Posted by calder-cay
Interesting. The first time I've seen something like this is when I changed the oil in our zero turn, but never on a car/truck. It makes sense, if you're constantly changing oil on your vehicle, for convenience sake.
Oil change hose on zero turn - it's about 6" + inches long. The source end is screwed in where a drain plug would be ... (it makes sense on this mower, because you can't get to the drain plug).
I've been using one of these on my Gasser for a few years. Very pleased. Virtually no mess and no sealing ring change. Easy to drain a small amount if you over-fill during an oil change or want to get a small sample for oil analysis. Don't recall if it was this exact size and probably a different size for a Diesel. If you get your oil changed at the dealer you probably don't want this.
This is a very interesting gadget. A great idea, that said, I am bit worried about the spring-powered metal sphere that seals which may leak some oil when the car crosses bump? How was your experience?
This is a very interesting gadget. A great idea, that said, I am bit worried about the spring-powered metal sphere that seals which may leak some oil when the car crosses bump? How was your experience?
I haven't had any problems. The strength of the spring is such that the tiny mass of the sealing ball would never allow it to move away from the sealing seat if severely jarred, in my opinion.
Even if the sealing ball did not fully seat once oil was drained (let's say a small particle of something came out of the sump and got stuck on the the surface where the ball must seat) there is a small aluminum "dust" cap you screw onto the valve opening. The cap gets its internal surface sealed by a rubber O-ring. Even if the check valve failed the cap would stop the oil from draining out of the sump.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by MBKLUE
Another safety measure and an eye opener/heads-up if you find metallic bits on the plug magnet. I seem to think the GLK has a magnet in the sump but not certain.
(my reply is related to a 2014 GLK350 base)
I've removed the lower pan cover , and there's no magnets or magnetic material that I found.
I placed three earth magnets in that lower cover, then re-installed it. One day again I'll remove it, and see if anything significant is there.
I've removed the lower pan cover , and there's no magnets or magnetic material that I found.
I placed three earth magnets in that lower cover, then re-installed it. One day again I'll remove it, and see if anything significant is there.
Maybe it's the transmission that has a magnet built-in (or maybe I'm thinking of a different vehicle). Good idea putting magnets in your engine oil sump pan. Not so convenient to check but if it's "catching" anything metal then that's what really counts.
Finally it has come... I noticed today my GLK250 dropped a few engine oil drops on the garage floor, and yes, it was all over the undercover. Didn't remove the undercover yet, but I guess it would look much serious inside. It is not surprising as the car is 10 years old (2013), and reaching 87,000 miles, but disappointed by that it happened right after I imported the car to US along with my relocation. I recently moved to US (Greater Seattle Area, WA) and no idea how much would it cost in here to repair oil leaks even in ballpark. Any experience or estimation?
Leaks are not visible from the top, so it seems like happening bottom of the engine.
Curious of how you managed to import glk from canada to U.S. I also relocated south of border and requested compliance letter from Benz Canada which was denied due the lack of tmps sensors and no retrofit is available. Perhaps there's an importer who can get the importing done w/o compliance letter etc?
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) ... and I bring the washer and plug to ensure I get the correct size.
