Hello all. I have a 2011 GLK-350. A few weeks ago I started getting an ABS related error on startup that would go away if I let the car warmup and then restarted it. Now I have the BRAKE, EBD, and ABS Inoperative Error. Bought a scanner and ran diagnostics on the ESP program and got the following codes:

VIN---WDCGG5GBXBF659549
Vehicle---204.956 - GLK 350
Chassis---204
Model---956
Power---Gasoline
================================================== ======================
BENZ_EN_TEST_00002>VIN Identify>Control Unit>ESP - Electronic Stability program(N30-4)>
Read Fault Code:
Total Number : 10
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
6000 1/10
State: Historic
The Supply Voltage Of Control Unit N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit) Is Too Low
(Undervoltage).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
7230 2/10
State: Historic
No CAN Message Was Received From Control Unit A1 (Instrument Cluster).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
6110 3/10
State: Historic
No CAN Message Was Received From Control Unit A1 (Instrument Cluster).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
6102 4/10
State: Historic
No CAN Message Was Received From Control Unit N80 (Steering Column Tube Module Control
Unit).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
7250 5/10
State: Historic
No CAN Message Was Received From Control Unit N80 (Steering Column Tube Module Control
Unit).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
7266 6/10
State: Historic
Consequential Fault
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
7208 7/10
State: Historic
One Or More Signals Sent From Control Unit Combustion Engine Via The CAN Bus Is
Implausible.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
6264 8/10
State: Historic
One Or More Signals Sent From Control Unit Combustion Engine Via The CAN Bus Is
Implausible.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
5865 9/10
State: Historic
There Is An Internal Fault In Component A7/3 (Traction System Hydraulic Unit).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
5001 10/10
State: Historic
There Is An Internal Fault In Component N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit)

I did test the wheel speed sensors and they all appear fine. I am guessing I have to replace the ABS / EBS control module but wanted to check here first. That's not a cheap part!

 

It sounds like the same problem I've been seeing (as have a lot of others). The odd thing about this particular problem is that it tends to be intermittent, normally sticking around for a number of days or weeks, then just disappearing without a trace.

In my case, the original problem cropped up but disappeared before the replacement part I bought on a chance (turned out being wrong) was delivered. Then a year longer it came back. Halfway through a road trip, it went away again and hasn't recurred (yet, but I'll bet it will).

The research I've done suggests that the same symptom can be caused by a number of different root causes, including a bad wheel speed sensor (sounds like you don't have that issue), bad brake switch, or a bad ABS computer (the one that's sandwiched to your ABS pump / manifold). There's a rumor that there's an ESP module under the passenger's front seat (IIRC), and that could cause it as well.

To replace the ABS module, you'd have to code the module to your car. I did get a bidirectional scanner that would do that, but I'm not likely to try that unless the problem comes back. The other thing I'd suggest is that most of the failures like this with the ABS computer are from bad (cracked) solder joints on the circuit board. I've read reports from folks who removed the computer, split the case, scraped off the conformal coating, and then resoldering the suspect connections. The down side to this approach is that you really need to have a second car around to drive if this process goes south.

I had some temporary success by removing, cleaning and reinstalling the ABS computer plug, and some have apparently fixed the problem this way.

I also was able to "spoof" the system into working (so my cruise control would work) by accelerating to over 20-25mph, then shifting to neutral, turning the engine off, then turning the ignition back on / off / on a couple times. The error would usually clear and stay off until after I turned the ignition off again. This got me across the country with a working cruise control, and no "Christmas tree dashboard".

At any rate, keep us all posted on your progress - it's a common issue, and the more we learn about it, the better!

FWIW, here's my second (of two) videos on this problem:

 

The electronic stability control unit says “Low Voltage “ on the code. Low voltage messes up things. How old and good is battery ? . My alternator regulator went bad at 75000m a new regulator was an easy fix. A weak battery can cause codes to show up mainly at startup when load is high, voltage drops to low . Is battery charged now?

 

The first thing I did was take the battery in and have it tested / charged. The battery is good, alternator tested good. I'm not sure what the alternator regulator is, I will do some research on that and check it. Thanks!

 

Thanks! I watched your video a few days ago before my code reader came in. The only thing I am worried about is all of the codes that are thrown, but maybe its a fuse / relay / battery regulator issue.

 

You need to do tests in the car, you took the battery in “they charged it”. So it was low ? It should not be “low “ if your charging system is working correctly. Do you have a volt meter ? Read the battery now and have someone crank the motor to start it while you monitor voltage , see how low it drops when cranking it. With older cars get your own test equipment.

 

If you drove it today it’s probably charged up now, best it redo tests in the morning after sitting all night . I recently had a low battery for weeks , I found I had a dash camera lock on 24/7, many things can go bad and draw power. Your code said “Low Voltage “ start there .

 

OK, tomorrow morning I will take a video of the multi-meter reading from the battery cold, through the start, and idling for 10 or 15 seconds.

 

Use the secret engineering menu to monitor the voltage. I believe you can also monitor the charging current. Don't make any changes in the secret menu. That could be very bad.

There are a couple of ways to get into the menu, so search here (and on G**gle - mercedes secret Engineering menu) to find the right method for your car.

Here's some info to find parasitic current draw...
https://automotivetechinfo.com/2023/07/quiescent-current-draw-diagnosis/

When searching for instructions on how to use the Engineering menu, you'll find instructions similar to...

"
MB Engineering menu

Turn on to first position
On the radio unit...
Press "end call"
Press "1"
Press "#"
Hold for about 5 seconds
"

... here's a similar set of instructions...

"
MB secret menu

In a separate thread started by Cardonman it was revealed that a "secret Menu"can be accessed. This is intended for service techs, and could lead to putting the vehicle into an unknown state, please be careful if you venture here!

To access the Secret Menu, follow these steps:
(1) Remove the silver Start - Stop button (if fitted) by gently pulling it out
(2) Insert the ignition key
(3) Turn the key clockwise to the first stop (at least one indicator light will come on, but the RH gauge will still point to 'OFF')
(4) Select the Odometer readout in the dash, if necessary, by pressing the Up or Down arrow buttons on the LH keypad of the steering wheel.
(5) Press and hold the “telephone answer” button on the RH keypad of the steering wheel.
(6) Press and hold the “OK” button on the LH keypad of the steering wheel.
(7) Wait about two seconds. The readout on the dash will show the Secret Menu.
(8) Navigate as desired using the Up or Down arrow buttons on the LH keypad of the steering wheel
(9) To exit use the back button (above the LH keypad of the steering wheel)
"

Use the round knob (if you have one) on the centre console to go up and down in the menu and to click and obtain sub menus, and also the "back" button to navigate out of a menu with. Need to move to the bottom of the first page and use the knob to move down to the next page.

Go through the menu and sub menus to find the area that displays voltage and the charge current (displayed while running).


Others have provided much valuable info in this forum on acceptable voltage and current values, along with the ability of stores to "check" a battery (the stores are incorrect many times), others have described acceptable battery types to purchase.

- Inserting my auxilliary rambling here...
Note that if you have an auxilliary battery, it's a great idea to replace it if you change the main battery. It's very simple to do. Best to get one that connects to the existing battery vent tube (if you have one of these batteries). Never take a chance with battery gas pooling in your car. Some feel that the safety bubble on the battery is good enuff (and not use the vent tube). I reflect on seeing batteries of this type failing dramatically in well Engineered battery backup systems. We would have to discard the batteries and their backup system every time. I prefer not to be in the minority of cases of having a battery without a vent tube that fails and bursts the safety bubble venting gases outside the battery. Just my opinion. Never want to be in that situation.

 

I would delete all Faults, start engine and after the Fault will be present in Instrument Cluster I will make the diagnosis without stopping the engine.

If any of the Faults code will change from "history" to "Actual" then those should be investigated.

If this one will came again:

5001 10/10
State: Historic
There Is An Internal Fault In Component N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit)

a new ESP ( or used,) will be needed.

Anyway, search for water behind the driver carpet where the CAN distribution is usually placed.

 

My wife started the car before I could get the camera rolling but the initial reading on the battery was 11.7 which surprised me because yesterday the last reading I took was in the high 12 range.

Looks to be bad battery. I wonder if advanced auto told me it was good just to avoid honouring the warranty on the battery?
​

 

Thanks for posting the video.

And yes, if you bring in a battery all by itself to the auto-parts, they typically charge it first, then test it.
Of course, it depends on the store and their procedures.

That's one reason why I buy test equipment (within $$$ reason).
I have a dedicated battery load tester. (cost about $20 usd)

I'd say, let it sit for 24 hours, then bring it in and have them load test it first.
Or, maybe just bring it in now and have it load tested.

At some auto parts stores, batteries sit on the shelves for months, esp those that are specialized batteries.

 

Get an AGM battery charger like a Noco Or CTEK that has a Restore cycle. Or other good brand with AGM cycle and Restore cycle. Get a cheap load tester . All for maybe 150$ Charge it and and see if holds a charge . The Restore function works . It could be your alternator , regulator ( mine went bad) or a short or phantom load or a battery. Your thinking it’s a bad battery and buying a new one, might not fix the issue . At rest 12. 4 - 12. 6 is normal. 12 is about dead and 11.7 is way low and bad for electronics.

 

If you can receive a new battery with your warranty contact it will be great but this will not solve the ESP..

Also if the guys from warranty will want to check the car, the ESP internal fault could be used as a reason for refusing the claim, as is like common sense, a ESP with this kind of trouble will never sleep, will never let the Energy Management to do the charging, etc.

 

 

When you replaced it did you get an AGM? If not it’s very possible your terminals are corroded , AGM don’t corrode terminals .

 

This should be "Bluefficiency" model, means Energy Management besides other options. From VIN this care has:

• 909 Generator management

So if the battery is not AMG is already exploded. Vehicles with Energy or Aggressive Energy management can raise the voltage when charging on braking to over 15V. Only AGM can integrate this kind of charging.

 

Not AGM. It was replaced in January 2023. Terminal are not corroded as I put the anti-corrosion paste on when I replaced the battery.

This car has almost 250,000 miles on it, so I imagine it could be any number of issues that are going to require some serious investigation and discovery.

If someone can recommend a battery I will try and find one. I live in a tiny town in southern colorado so I may have to go into durango or farmington.

 

Why do you keep wanting a new battery? You have not charged or tested what you have. It might be fine. Did you test the alternator? Any parts store where I’m at tests the battery, alternator and runs codes free , while you wait !
the charge the auto store did on your battery lasted about 1 hour running it. And I’m sure that was days ago. I don’t think your Glk is charging properly , or your loosing power somehow. You need to charge it yourself and test it right away, not hours or days later

 

"Not AGM" ... oooops, rwong choice.

Though, your issue may not be the battery

I may have mentioned, we still have the original battery in our 2014 with 94k miles. When it's time, it'll be an original from MB - some folks will argue, "so much $$$", but the original is still alive at ten years now. 👍

 

The original MB battery is Varta, in EU îs around 100€ for 80Ah.

The thread is about ESP and it seems ESP has a failure beyond battery voltage.

Being "internal" the failure, besides safety on driving the entire electronic system connected on the same CAN network ( engine, gearbox, Distronic, etc.) become not stable and can influence charging or the consumption during car sleep.

 

Take the negative cable off of the battery. Charge it completely, then let it sit overnight with the cable off. In the morning, if it is not fully charged the battery is bad; it doesn't hold a charge. If it is still charged, but isn't if you leave it connected overnight, then something is draining the battery.
Consider yourself lucky. When I got mine it was on at least the second battery. I know because when I had to replace the (OEM) battery that was in it it had a much later date code. So, battery #3 is an Odyssey from FCP with lifetime warranty.

 

If the car has had a low voltage event for any reason, it can throw a host of codes. That's because a lot of the computers / modules in the car use microprocessors that really don't deal well with low voltage.

In general, when I see a car with a whole lot of seemingly unrelated OBD error codes, especially of some of those codes are related to "low voltage" in some way, I'll generally just reset them all and see if any come back. Usually, they don't. Any that are really related to a persistent problem will come back, of course.

Also, FWIW, my battery is only a couple years old, and regularly dips down under 12 volts overnight - sometimes it's at 11.7 volts or so. But it tests (IIRC) 80% on my battery tester, and of course, starts up perfectly every time without exception. I suppose that the (very!) cheap cigarette lighter plug USB charger / voltmeter could be a couple tenths of a volt off, but I've had several cars with a resting battery voltage in that range (tested with a known good multimeter) that had no issues. My personal philosophy is to wait until I hear that first faint hint that the starter is not QUITE spinning the engine at its normal speed, and then I'll start shopping for a new battery. Oh, and I carry a jump start / inflator combo. They've gotten quite small lately, so no points off...

 

Below 12 and I blow a fuse on my Audison BIT 8.9 on startup. He goes a lot lower than 11.7, probably 11.2 on startup, That is a problem . At those miles I’d say Alternator brushes are gone and no proper contact. My brushes were bad at 75000m