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Just wanted to double check the orientation on the factory sway bar link. I replaced my factory (THK made in japan) original to FEBI Bilstein in the winter of 2024. I went back to the original (THK made in japan) and I might have gotten the link position mixed up (especially on passenger side).
I have it set to:
Driver/LEFT A2043200789 with part number facing outward
Passenger/RIGHT A2043202289 with part number facing inward
They're not interchangeable, and will clearly not fit if you try to use the wrong one, so it should sort itself out. FWIW, here's a video that I did on the process (didn't use OEM replacements, but the concept is the same)...
They're not interchangeable, and will clearly not fit if you try to use the wrong one, so it should sort itself out. FWIW, here's a video that I did on the process (didn't use OEM replacements, but the concept is the same)...
Yeah, I remember "back in the day" that the nipples were sticking out all over the place under the car. FWIW, I do still see quite a few parts for my Jeep (a 1996 XJ Cherokee 4x4) that have nipples, but that's a dinosaur and we who drive them are cavemen. ;-)
Sorry so I think this needs a little more detail. I am not asking about left or right.
When I revert back from the aftermarket Febi to the Mercedes-Benz (THK), I had a very random, but inconsitent clicking sound upon turning. I think it was because I had the right side with the part number face outward instead of inwards. As you can see, if you weren't paying attention you could install it either way.
Since I put the Right side with the part number inwards I didn't notice the noise come back.
Also if you were wondering, the Febi-Belistein didn't give me the noise issue. I switched it out because the hardware wasn't to my liking and the stud was kinda messed up after install.
Something seems "off" about some of the photos (IMHO - I may be wrong). On my 2012 (in the video) the part numbers were facing out, and I believe they were the original swaybar links. Thing is, with the part numbers facing out, the orientation of the link was "correct" - that is, the ball joint was aligned perpendicular to the "centerline" of the link main shaft (assuming the flats are on that centerline).
On the passenger (right) side, numbers-out photo above, it looks like mine did, with everything aligned like I'd expect.
On the driver (left) side, numbers-out photo above, it's REALLY twisted from the "centered" position, with the shaft splitting the difference between the misalignment on the top and bottom. I have to believe that was enough of an angle to cause an operational problem.
Is it possible that there were actually two right-side links installed? I can't read the numbers on the links, but maybe the original photos are hi-res enough to do so...
He is explaining that because the two ball joints are not on the same plane, offset about 45 degrees, and when the numbers are faced outwards, the face of the link and the face of the bar and mount are parallel. In the facing inwards picture, the link is cocked and neither mount is aligned and you cant align one without the other becoming worse. So use your face outward pic. Hope that helps.
Are you suggesting it might make a difference to rotate that right side bar, 180 degrees as it is laying?
Yep. That will definitely change the alignment, which (as Baltistyle points out) should have both "faces" of the ball joint flats parallel to the sway bar / strut mount. I honestly don't recall thinking much about that, but would have instinctively put them on so that it all does line up. It'll be different if you flip (for example) the left link upside-down. It'll only line up properly one direction. Obviously, I didn't use the original style links in my video, but did use the originals on (IIRC) the other GLK. I didn't have anything that didn't look right when installed...
Hmmm I don't know if the orientation matters. Maybe my Bilstein B6 is slightly different or out of tolerance 🤔. Anyways, I looked at some brake jobs for the GLK and it looks like most of them are numbers inward on the right side. This is assuming they are factory untouched which is highly likely.
For now I am leaving it the way it is since I haven't been able to recreate that anoying clicking noise.
Are you suggesting it might make a difference to rotate that right side bar, 180 degrees as it is laying?
Also curious is what I've circled with a question mark... is that some sort of marker for "this end up (or down)"?? I doubt that's to add strength.
Yes. Thats why I came here to ask. I didn't take pictures before I did all these changes to my suspension. If you hold the links in your hand you'll notice it is VERY asymetrical, but it can be installed either way. I believe that extra material indicates it is for right only and nothing more.
When I removed the FEBI Bilstein, I tried to match it up with the angle of ball joints. but after driving I noticed a noise. I could recreate the noise if I had the steering on full lock and played with the passenger side link. I flipped the right so you can't see the numbers and the noise didn't come back after 300 miles of driving.
So if you went aftermarket, you might never run into this issue.
Something seems "off" about some of the photos (IMHO - I may be wrong).
Some pictures are with the wheels turned fully locked while in the air. One of the picture is with no wheels on but dead center on steering angle on jack stands. The picture with the links on the table is not taken by me.
I think if the noise comes back I'm gonna order some aftermarket ones.
To be completely honest. I do not think it matters at all which way the part number is oriented. This is simply a ball and socket. You are way overthinking this.
I think the simple take-away from this thread is that the links should be installed so that the ball joints are centered in their travel on both ends.
Yeah, that. The numbers have nothing to do with function. And, I wouldn't worry about that washer coming loose; it's just lightly pressed on there to help make installation idiot proof.
Might have figured out the issue. Apparently the new springs on the struts made the hole locations (on the yellow strut) sit lower than usual. The factory sway bar links have a limited rotation. So when you go full lock, it will make a noise clunk. You may not encounter this issue with aftermarket sway bar links. So if you switch links and hear a clunk at full lock then flip the link around. So when I went from the orginial links to FEBI-Bilstein, I matched them up, but going from the febi back to factory I made an install error resulting in the noise.
I think Mmr1 also reported a big increase in ride height from new springs. My car is definitly 1.5 inches higher than before.
I went with Febi brand sway bar links and had one fail after 2yrs, now I wish I went with genuine Mercedes. Now I think the other side is failing and will have to replace it soon. I opened the failed link up to see hardly any grease in there, and it was not leaking out grease since im the one who ripped the boot open to see inside.
I sat there and thought about the orientation, installing them each way and I really dont see how it will make a difference either way. The manual does not mention anything about orientation and there are no clear markings on the links which way they should go. The ball joints rotate as they should and dont get bound up. Just because im **** I installed them writing side out.
I really dont see how it will make a difference either way.
You want to orient it so that the ***** are in the center of their travel with weight on wheels. The photo in post 14 shows an installation where the ***** are clearly not centered.
Might want to look at why the tie rod bellow is extended in some of those pictures. Those pictures were taken with the steering at full lock. That's why the link doesn't look centered
I took my car into my independant shop for an unrelated inspection and asked about the links. Tech said the links shouldn't matter which way was up or down, but they had a 2013 GLK350 there as well and the factory links on their car was the same orientation as I had it (sample size of 1). Since it hasn't been making a noise at full lock, he suggested to not touch it. The Febi links are junk. I would go factory or try the one with a grease nipple.
Also right side links will have extra hourglass shape on the shaft for the W212, C218, and W204 so its easier to identify or so it doesn't get mixed up at the factory. In general Mercedes-Benz part numbers the eighth digit even will be assigned right side, odd numbers will be left side if there is a fitment choice.
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