CLK 55 AMG vs Altima SER 3.5 w/ Juice
#1
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CLK 55 AMG vs Altima SER 3.5 w/ Juice
the other day I raced my coworkers 06 Nissan Altima 3.5 SER on a 75 shot of juice + intake, exhaust (bolt on mods)...he did the 3 beeps from a dead stop. he took off first I smash the gas and of course spin sideways thru 1st (stayed in the gas) and as soon as I get traction I leave him by 1 car lenght. We stay that way till 3rd when he starts reeling me in a bit. The auto in the CLK switches to 4th and I proceed to pull on him again but not much. In the end he couldn't catch me but he was right on my bumper pretty much the whole time. We're gonna replay this on the highway. Somehow he thinks he can catch me after 100mph...I doubt it tho
BTW my clk is bone stock and had a crank sensor code when we raced.
BTW my clk is bone stock and had a crank sensor code when we raced.
#2
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I race my friend's SE-R all the time with my CLK500. He hangs with me for like 2 seconds. I just slowly keep pulling away from him and the gap increases as the speeds get higher. They don't have much top end. I can see how an extra 75hp can do the trick though
Good kill bro
Good kill bro
#5
With 75 extra thru NOS and he couldn't take you....at 100 its not gonna be much better and he is damaging his car with using that much NOS. Good kill or should I say cheap kill.
#6
My boy has a se-r as well and keeps up with me till around 1** and slowly falls back..I have a 96 sl600.. I haven't had this car long and know it has a bad left cat, o2 sensor, and purge valve.. I was thinking it was gonna be hands down but now I'm looking for ways to boost power.. any ideas?
#7
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NOS is not effective for highway speeds for most Japanese cars. Since the car is already running at the top end, all the NOS will do is heat up the engine and increase the possibility of detonation, or buring a valve, LOL.
NOS is most effective off a dead stop, like a drag race.
Nice kill!
NOS is most effective off a dead stop, like a drag race.
Nice kill!
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#8
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NOS is not effective for highway speeds for most Japanese cars. Since the car is already running at the top end, all the NOS will do is heat up the engine and increase the possibility of detonation, or buring a valve, LOL.
NOS is most effective off a dead stop, like a drag race.
Nice kill!
NOS is most effective off a dead stop, like a drag race.
Nice kill!
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NOS is not effective for highway speeds for most Japanese cars. Since the car is already running at the top end, all the NOS will do is heat up the engine and increase the possibility of detonation, or buring a valve, LOL.
NOS is most effective off a dead stop, like a drag race.
Nice kill!
NOS is most effective off a dead stop, like a drag race.
Nice kill!
When you don't have the correct nitrous/fuel ratio is when things go horribly wrong rather quickly.Since basically your doubling your oxygen intake&if you don't compensate by adding fuel you will lean out&burn pistons/valves/cylinders real quick.
That's why I don't believe in all the hype with "dry shots" that rely on your cars ECU to fatten up the fuel;they're only good for 75-100hp for a reason.The only system I would trust is a wet system with designated fuel/nitrous solenoids.
Also,you will see hp across the entire rpm band,including huge mph gains up top if the vehicle is set-up properly.I've gained as much as 25mph thru the traps in the 1/4mi with spray.
I say run him at least 6x til his bottle is empty
#10
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Not true if set up properly.Nitrous actually does a very good job of lowering of the intake temperature. When released from a pressurized bottle, the temperature of nitrous oxide drops to around minus 125 degrees, which can cool the overall intake charge by as much as 65 degrees.
When you don't have the correct nitrous/fuel ratio is when things go horribly wrong rather quickly.Since basically your doubling your oxygen intake&if you don't compensate by adding fuel you will lean out&burn pistons/valves/cylinders real quick.
That's why I don't believe in all the hype with "dry shots" that rely on your cars ECU to fatten up the fuel;they're only good for 75-100hp for a reason.The only system I would trust is a wet system with designated fuel/nitrous solenoids.
Also,you will see hp across the entire rpm band,including huge mph gains up top if the vehicle is set-up properly.I've gained as much as 25mph thru the traps in the 1/4mi with spray.
I say run him at least 6x til his bottle is empty
When you don't have the correct nitrous/fuel ratio is when things go horribly wrong rather quickly.Since basically your doubling your oxygen intake&if you don't compensate by adding fuel you will lean out&burn pistons/valves/cylinders real quick.
That's why I don't believe in all the hype with "dry shots" that rely on your cars ECU to fatten up the fuel;they're only good for 75-100hp for a reason.The only system I would trust is a wet system with designated fuel/nitrous solenoids.
Also,you will see hp across the entire rpm band,including huge mph gains up top if the vehicle is set-up properly.I've gained as much as 25mph thru the traps in the 1/4mi with spray.
I say run him at least 6x til his bottle is empty
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Not true if set up properly.Nitrous actually does a very good job of lowering of the intake temperature. When released from a pressurized bottle, the temperature of nitrous oxide drops to around minus 125 degrees, which can cool the overall intake charge by as much as 65 degrees.
When you don't have the correct nitrous/fuel ratio is when things go horribly wrong rather quickly.Since basically your doubling your oxygen intake&if you don't compensate by adding fuel you will lean out&burn pistons/valves/cylinders real quick.
That's why I don't believe in all the hype with "dry shots" that rely on your cars ECU to fatten up the fuel;they're only good for 75-100hp for a reason.The only system I would trust is a wet system with designated fuel/nitrous solenoids.
Also,you will see hp across the entire rpm band,including huge mph gains up top if the vehicle is set-up properly.I've gained as much as 25mph thru the traps in the 1/4mi with spray.
I say run him at least 6x til his bottle is empty
When you don't have the correct nitrous/fuel ratio is when things go horribly wrong rather quickly.Since basically your doubling your oxygen intake&if you don't compensate by adding fuel you will lean out&burn pistons/valves/cylinders real quick.
That's why I don't believe in all the hype with "dry shots" that rely on your cars ECU to fatten up the fuel;they're only good for 75-100hp for a reason.The only system I would trust is a wet system with designated fuel/nitrous solenoids.
Also,you will see hp across the entire rpm band,including huge mph gains up top if the vehicle is set-up properly.I've gained as much as 25mph thru the traps in the 1/4mi with spray.
I say run him at least 6x til his bottle is empty
Although I disagree with you over the fogger part, everything else you said is true. I couldnt make any sense over what the other guy was trying to say.
Although wet kits (and better yet direct port) are better than foggers, those other two kits are more expensive. If you have a small displacement car, which is well fueled and maintained by a competent mechanic, you should be able to use a 25 or 50 jet with no problems. Not to mention that single stage foggers are super CHEAP! For 500 bucks you can get 50 hp on a little tiny car!
On a side note:
Its illegal in Hawaii to have a NoS bottle hooked up in your car. You can have it installed in your car, but it cannot be connected :-) a "quick disconnect" is the way to roll around in Hawaii, legally!
#12
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Heres why I dont like the system you prefer.Your car(bike,whatever) has to be set up to run rich all the time,not just when spraying.So now your driving around with an engine thats not running with the proper air/fuel ratio day in day out;it's not delivering optimum perfromance unless your spraying.How many seconds are you actually gonna spray the car vs. how many hours do you drive it?Your also relying on the car/mechanics tune to prevent leaning out.
IMO,a dry system is the "cheap' way out&I've learned many a valuable lesson with nitrous.I have a shelf full of burnt pistons,cylinders,toasted heads&valves in my garage.Thats why I would take the time&money to invest in a full-on wet system vs. taking a chance and eventually destroying a top end(if not the entire engine).
On the flip side,lots of kids run dry systems on their imports and some don't have any problems
IMO,a dry system is the "cheap' way out&I've learned many a valuable lesson with nitrous.I have a shelf full of burnt pistons,cylinders,toasted heads&valves in my garage.Thats why I would take the time&money to invest in a full-on wet system vs. taking a chance and eventually destroying a top end(if not the entire engine).
On the flip side,lots of kids run dry systems on their imports and some don't have any problems
#13
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Heres why I dont like the system you prefer.Your car(bike,whatever) has to be set up to run rich all the time,not just when spraying.So now your driving around with an engine thats not running with the proper air/fuel ratio day in day out;it's not delivering optimum perfromance unless your spraying.How many seconds are you actually gonna spray the car vs. how many hours do you drive it?Your also relying on the car/mechanics tune to prevent leaning out.
But still, I've seen plenty of examples of Domestic cars running over 100 dry shots. Especially on the Chevy LS engines. Their ecu just compensates and adds the right amount. Even so, I wouldn't want to risk it and rely on the ECU. Plus from what I've read, wet shots seems to "hit harder." I had a wet 75 shot and it was truly an instant surge of lasting torque. No problems with the car either, no overheating, no top end loss. Just power. I love it and whatever cars I get in the future, I'll make sure they will always have a bottle in the trunk .
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Not saying the dry systems dont work cuz they do&many races(and money) have been won with that set-up,I just learned the hard way&it cost me alot of money in the long run.
Plus,with a wet system you can have it come on progressively to avoid "shocking" the tires with all the hp at once.And,multi-stage sytems are where its at
Plus,with a wet system you can have it come on progressively to avoid "shocking" the tires with all the hp at once.And,multi-stage sytems are where its at
#15
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Not saying the dry systems dont work cuz they do&many races(and money) have been won with that set-up,I just learned the hard way&it cost me alot of money in the long run.
Plus,with a wet system you can have it come on progressively to avoid "shocking" the tires with all the hp at once.And,multi-stage sytems are where its at
Plus,with a wet system you can have it come on progressively to avoid "shocking" the tires with all the hp at once.And,multi-stage sytems are where its at
I don't think I've ever seen a multi-stage system on the streets...probably because everyone is too cheap to invest in one. You know anywhere where I can read up on one? Is it like, you have 2 50 shots and 2 buttons? 1st button gives you 50hp and when you hit the 2nd button you get another 50 equaling 100? Thanks bro.
And yeah, progressive kits sound insane. I've always been a bigger fan of having the torque build up (just like the procharger centrifugal supercharger vs maggy eaton supercharger debates going on with the American cars).
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Well,kinda
We've taken a bone stock(internally) Hayabusa that ran 9.50s and after adding a Schnitz Progressive controller were able to run mid 8's on the street w a street tire no less.My streetracing is 100% w bikes,so no cars for me but the principle is still the same.
You can set up multi stage system to deliver an initial shot of (for example)150hp,then at a pre-determined rpm have the second stage kick in,or leave the line with the 150hp on W.O.T.&then use the button to manually engage the next stage,&so forth.
Theres a fellow named Jobe Spetter that runs TurboPeople off the Saw Mill Pkway in Westchester that is a nitrous Guru&has set numerous records with (primarily,but not limited to) Buick GN's & Mustangs.He was doing multi-stage nitrous set-ups back in the late 80's&90's before it became all the rage.
Heres a few links:
http://www.holley.com/15975NOS.asp
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...y_Code=NITROUS
http://www.turbopeople.com/power.php
sorry if we hijacked the thread!
We've taken a bone stock(internally) Hayabusa that ran 9.50s and after adding a Schnitz Progressive controller were able to run mid 8's on the street w a street tire no less.My streetracing is 100% w bikes,so no cars for me but the principle is still the same.
You can set up multi stage system to deliver an initial shot of (for example)150hp,then at a pre-determined rpm have the second stage kick in,or leave the line with the 150hp on W.O.T.&then use the button to manually engage the next stage,&so forth.
Theres a fellow named Jobe Spetter that runs TurboPeople off the Saw Mill Pkway in Westchester that is a nitrous Guru&has set numerous records with (primarily,but not limited to) Buick GN's & Mustangs.He was doing multi-stage nitrous set-ups back in the late 80's&90's before it became all the rage.
Heres a few links:
http://www.holley.com/15975NOS.asp
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...y_Code=NITROUS
http://www.turbopeople.com/power.php
sorry if we hijacked the thread!
#17
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Thread Starter
so which one of you gurus is gonna hook up a wet kit in my car for me?? Nobody around here wants to touch my car b/c "omg...its a Benz." I've went to a few people (that I know) and they're all skeptical about putting a wet kit in my car b/c they're not sure how to go about it, what kit to use, and how to install it.
#18
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Well,kinda
We've taken a bone stock(internally) Hayabusa that ran 9.50s and after adding a Schnitz Progressive controller were able to run mid 8's on the street w a street tire no less.My streetracing is 100% w bikes,so no cars for me but the principle is still the same.
You can set up multi stage system to deliver an initial shot of (for example)150hp,then at a pre-determined rpm have the second stage kick in,or leave the line with the 150hp on W.O.T.&then use the button to manually engage the next stage,&so forth.
Theres a fellow named Jobe Spetter that runs TurboPeople off the Saw Mill Pkway in Westchester that is a nitrous Guru&has set numerous records with (primarily,but not limited to) Buick GN's & Mustangs.He was doing multi-stage nitrous set-ups back in the late 80's&90's before it became all the rage.
Heres a few links:
http://www.holley.com/15975NOS.asp
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...y_Code=NITROUS
http://www.turbopeople.com/power.php
sorry if we hijacked the thread!
We've taken a bone stock(internally) Hayabusa that ran 9.50s and after adding a Schnitz Progressive controller were able to run mid 8's on the street w a street tire no less.My streetracing is 100% w bikes,so no cars for me but the principle is still the same.
You can set up multi stage system to deliver an initial shot of (for example)150hp,then at a pre-determined rpm have the second stage kick in,or leave the line with the 150hp on W.O.T.&then use the button to manually engage the next stage,&so forth.
Theres a fellow named Jobe Spetter that runs TurboPeople off the Saw Mill Pkway in Westchester that is a nitrous Guru&has set numerous records with (primarily,but not limited to) Buick GN's & Mustangs.He was doing multi-stage nitrous set-ups back in the late 80's&90's before it became all the rage.
Heres a few links:
http://www.holley.com/15975NOS.asp
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...y_Code=NITROUS
http://www.turbopeople.com/power.php
sorry if we hijacked the thread!
Oh yeah sorry bro
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so which one of you gurus is gonna hook up a wet kit in my car for me?? Nobody around here wants to touch my car b/c "omg...its a Benz." I've went to a few people (that I know) and they're all skeptical about putting a wet kit in my car b/c they're not sure how to go about it, what kit to use, and how to install it.
#20
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Not true if set up properly.Nitrous actually does a very good job of lowering of the intake temperature. When released from a pressurized bottle, the temperature of nitrous oxide drops to around minus 125 degrees, which can cool the overall intake charge by as much as 65 degrees.
When you don't have the correct nitrous/fuel ratio is when things go horribly wrong rather quickly.Since basically your doubling your oxygen intake&if you don't compensate by adding fuel you will lean out&burn pistons/valves/cylinders real quick.
That's why I don't believe in all the hype with "dry shots" that rely on your cars ECU to fatten up the fuel;they're only good for 75-100hp for a reason.The only system I would trust is a wet system with designated fuel/nitrous solenoids.
When you don't have the correct nitrous/fuel ratio is when things go horribly wrong rather quickly.Since basically your doubling your oxygen intake&if you don't compensate by adding fuel you will lean out&burn pistons/valves/cylinders real quick.
That's why I don't believe in all the hype with "dry shots" that rely on your cars ECU to fatten up the fuel;they're only good for 75-100hp for a reason.The only system I would trust is a wet system with designated fuel/nitrous solenoids.
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If you put it that way I agree,you are 100% correct
#23
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Agreed. I'm afraid of a 600cc bike. Cars? I'll race till I die...Bikes? I won't go near 'em. Respect to you bikers. I saw bikes racing at Englishtown and was just at how ridiculous they are. Some guys were even doing wheelies down the first 1/8th mile. Awesome stuff.
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