You wanna be able to stop fast? Check this out...


Ill have them on in a few days... Im at metal on metal braking on the rears
the pads are Porterfield C4S pads and the rotors are cadmium coated custom drilled zimmerman rotors
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And remember Pete there is a 500 mile break in period that you should strictly adhere too. To extended the life of you pads and rotors and to prevent squealing!!! Be very light and gentle no hard stops!
Example is the PF 2 piece floating rotors I bought for my old Evo 8. The dimple slots follow the vanes pattern. Please ignore the hand. It's not meant for anyone in this forum.


and the one I showed is a Stoptech rotor which have the pattern of the slots goes in the opposite.

I would've chosen slotted or dimpled over cross drilled if I was shopping around for rotors due to crack stress that cross drilled have created in the long run. But since we all drive our MLs on the street and will never see the track, majority of us will be fine in this case.
and also, FWIW, cooling vanes are to extract heat out of the rotor, not feeding cold air into the rotor. You can most certainly take advantage of this specially on a race car by putting in cold air ducts pointing directly to the caliper.
Last edited by AMGrayML55; Apr 19, 2006 at 02:33 PM.
I will also direct you towards this post here that I have made...
https://mbworld.org/forums/off-topic/145192-propper-steps-bedding-brake-pads.html
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new brake pads are ready for use.
link:
http://www.racingbrake.com/main/tech...0Street%20Pads
Last edited by AMGrayML55; Apr 19, 2006 at 02:46 PM.


