M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

What could have leaked?

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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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W163 ML320
What could have leaked?

I started my ML this morning, and while waiting for it to warm-up, I began smelling something burn. I looked out the windshield to see what appeared to be smoke spewing out from under the hood. I immediately cut the ignition and got out. After some time, I popped the hood open to find it still smelling like burning rubber, but intact, there didn't seem to be any damage. I asked my neighbor, a mechanic for the transit authority, and he left it on for a few minutes, but it seemed to be fine. I took it for a drive, went up to 60mph, and it ran smoothly. My neighbor told me that some liquid must have leaked, and I figured that because the smoke was greyish rather than black, it must have been a leak. He also said that the water hose was soft, though he wasn't sure. I don't want to drive it unless I know the problem has been fixed, any similar experiences or suggestions? By the way, its an ML320 with 65,500 miles.
Thanks in advance
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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Geez, tough one. I first thought harmonic balancer, but don't recall burning incidences. I would start with the hoses - check them all. Keep the truck outside overnight to see if the cold would trigger something. If there were no fluids on the floor, I wonder why so much would burn to bring that much smoke. It's not fuel otherwise you'd be takling about a burnt ML. Is it possible that a night creature got caught in the engine bay - look for signs of cooked animal!! I have no idea!
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 11:08 PM
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update

So, I ended up having to drive the car today, (Yes, I know that was a bad move) but I noticed something. The thermostat shoots up from zero to about 80 degrees within 5 minutes, which indicates the engine cooling system radiator etc. Now of course I didn't drive long enough for it to get any hotter, but at least I found something.I have an appointment for this Saturday at the local shop, but want a heads up before going, any idea how much replacing the hosing and possibly the radiator can cost? Also, anyone know if something like this can affect the transmission? The engine was revving highly, I think I saw it go to almost 5500rpm before shifting out of 1st on level ground!
Any help is appreciated
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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umm, i think i paid like 100-150 for a new radiator and i think like 50 for labor. luckily my hoses were good so idk about that. good luck
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:19 PM
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i don't think the hoses can be more expensive than the radiator, so thats not much of a problem. Thanks though. Anyone have ideas about the high rpm shifting?
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ChromeBenz
i don't think the hoses can be more expensive than the radiator, so thats not much of a problem. Thanks though. Anyone have ideas about the high rpm shifting?
The high RPM is most likely the motor trying to pump in as much coolant into the system as poissible. Could it be a stuck thermostat? Then why the burning? Something is restricting flow. First, check the coolant level in both the overflow tank and the radiator - you can start vehicle with radiator cap open and see if coolant is flowing by via the coolant cap opening - I believe you can also have the cap on and observe the reservoir, there should be some fluid motion in there - experts, please help!!!!! Don't open radiator cap after starting vehicle, please. If fluid is flowing, then there's either bad fluid or insufficient flow. You can check bad fluid visually or by using one of those $3 coolant checkers from auto parts stores. If coolant is flowing OK, that means water pump is working. If you don't see any flow, the problem gets more complicated - water pump, thermostat or some deranged sensor? My guess is thermostat - I don't even know where it is on the ML and I have no idea how you replace it. If it's neither thermostat nor water pump, you have a much bigger problem at hand, including faulty sensors that may be causing things to close up quickly. Still, all this doesn't explain the smoke, unless you just ran so hot the first time that something started to melt, just due to the heat!!
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkmann
The high RPM is most likely the motor trying to pump in as much coolant into the system as poissible. Could it be a stuck thermostat? Then why the burning? Something is restricting flow. First, check the coolant level in both the overflow tank and the radiator - you can start vehicle with radiator cap open and see if coolant is flowing by via the coolant cap opening - I believe you can also have the cap on and observe the reservoir, there should be some fluid motion in there - experts, please help!!!!! Don't open radiator cap after starting vehicle, please. If fluid is flowing, then there's either bad fluid or insufficient flow. You can check bad fluid visually or by using one of those $3 coolant checkers from auto parts stores. If coolant is flowing OK, that means water pump is working. If you don't see any flow, the problem gets more complicated - water pump, thermostat or some deranged sensor? My guess is thermostat - I don't even know where it is on the ML and I have no idea how you replace it. If it's neither thermostat nor water pump, you have a much bigger problem at hand, including faulty sensors that may be causing things to close up quickly. Still, all this doesn't explain the smoke, unless you just ran so hot the first time that something started to melt, just due to the heat!!
Darkman, The motor does not react to trying to pump more coolant when required. The water pump functions in all vehicles by the rpm of the engine, in no way does it control the RPM.. As for bad fluid, it would have no effect as described by the poster. Bad coolant is coolant that does not have any longer the anti corrossive properties or has been diluted by adding water. The thermostadt would cause either an overheat or cause the engine to run too cool depending on how it failed. Adding too much antifreeze could cause the engine to run warm as antifreeze believe it or not does not transfer heat as well as plain water. Sensor could be a problem as could low coolant level usually caused by a leak. As for the odor that could be anything even the family cat sleeping under the hood....is it missing or singed??
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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I went to the mechanic, he told me a clamp was coming loose and he tightened it, so the problem seems to be fixed for now. One oddity I seemed to have just noticed is the odometer, which, at startup, shows a little wrench and 22 d. Last night, it was 23 d, so I assume its a service sign, and it would have shown up around the day this incident occurred. I guess its telling me to get something serviced within 22 days, but what? No OBDII codes showing, no other signs. I'm going to get the oil changed right now, maybe that's why, it has been 2800 miles since last change, so I thought maybe this was the reason. Any other ideas or ways to reset this meter? Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ChromeBenz
I went to the mechanic, he told me a clamp was coming loose and he tightened it, so the problem seems to be fixed for now. One oddity I seemed to have just noticed is the odometer, which, at startup, shows a little wrench and 22 d. Last night, it was 23 d, so I assume its a service sign, and it would have shown up around the day this incident occurred. I guess its telling me to get something serviced within 22 days, but what? No OBDII codes showing, no other signs. I'm going to get the oil changed right now, maybe that's why, it has been 2800 miles since last change, so I thought maybe this was the reason. Any other ideas or ways to reset this meter? Thanks in advance.
Yes you're due for service. One wrench = A service (basically a glorified oil change). If two wrenches, more in depth service (mostly a whole bunch of stuff is checked/replaced), but still a super glorified oil change. Whatever the case, have it done.
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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After the oil change, they reset the FSS counter, all is well. By the way, what type of oil do y'all use?
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