SL-ML-C

I was driving my ML yesterday and it just decided to die, crank all day, but wouldnt start.

I got a call from my service tech and he said my battery is too low and should be replaced for $250

he also said front brake pads are $350..... I have changed brake pads on my 190E and D before, is the ML any more difficult? should I just have them do it - seems a bit steep.

any quick help or knowledge would be appreceated

cmitch

If it cranks but won't start, that sounds like a Crank Position Sensor. Your battery was probably low due to your attempts to start it. And 250.00 for a battery??? Geez. Brakes on an ML are a BREEZE. Save your money, go order you some Wagner Thermo-quiet pads (they won't dust your wheels) and install them yourself. And I wouldn't replace those rotors unless they're vibrating when you brake.

ldangeli

Brakes are simple easy. 250 for a "Mercedes" battery is about the right price, but as the previous poster said, sounds like it was drained due to the sensor and your attempts. How old is the ML? I had an 05 ML55 and an 05 ML500. Brakes went on both, but never anything else.

SL-ML-C

its a 99' I called them and told them to replace the CPS and the battery - breaks sound as easy as the 190E is for me - I do need rotors because they are horrific when it comes to vibration.... any thoughts, I was going to go OE on those.

cmitch

You can get Brembo rotors at many on line stores. Try autopartswarehouse.com

ldangeli

If you plan on keeping the truck for a while, and they are HORRENDOUS on brakes, add slotted rotors to the front. So many companies make aftermarket cheaper, if not the same price. This will keep them cooler (why the warp) and get those pads from above.

SL-ML-C

as far as brake longevity with the drilled/slotted 3rd party replacement?

got my ML back today - I dont know how long ill keep it - probably till I can afford a 2nd hand GL.

my BAS/ESP and DTC have been dead for a year and I havent fixed those because I just shut them off anyway.

is there a reason besides brake dust to go with the pads listed above over the OE pads from Merc? ( I get my ML washed every or every other day so brake dust I couldnt care less about)

Merc OE pads work fine with the slotted/drilled rotors?

do they make rear slotted or drilled rotors? I hate having solid discs.

ldangeli

You don't need to get drilled, just slotted. Keeps the cost down and yes, as long as the rotors are the same size, OEM pads will work. The slotted will cut down a little on the dust, but the biggest benefit is longevity from keeping the heat down.

SL-ML-C

interesting, I was going to go with the Zimmerman drilled rotors, because I have not seen slotted rotors for the early 163 like I have

- any advice on where to look for those?
- any real downside to drilled rotors?

SL-ML-C

Its back at the $tealership - it wouldnt start this morning, just cranked and cranked - it sputtered for a sec twice, but didnt start - they said they brought it inside and started it no problem, they suspect a fuel pump or a fuel pump relay.... what are the odds of those, and how hard to replace are either of those things?

its -18* here without wind chill, can that be enough to make a working component.... not work?

dms58

These trucks are notorious for going through fuel pumps. My '98 has had 3 fuel pumps. The good news is after the "upgrade" to the new improved fuel pump, I've not had any problems.

Now the only issue I have is the fuel tank sensor that shows zero when I fill the tank.

ldangeli

Motha EFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINGGGG CHRIST! MOTHA EFFFFFFFFFER! The ML broke down about 2 hours ago. I think I blew the transmission. We were driving and then the effing piece of *****E completely shut off. I restarted it and BANG! It won't go into gear! Sounds like something snapped and now its vibrating! I FREAKING HATE THIS CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SL-ML-C

ah, good to know - hopefully if my pump is gone I'll get the updated one

SL-ML-C

front prop shaft? I dunno how many miles on your ML? the trans in my C43 went out at 75K my ML is on its orig @117K

ldangeli

19800 miles.

SL-ML-C

I'd get on MB about that even though its getting a little older and is probably out of warranty - thats ridiculous!

SL-ML-C

turns out it was a injector wire's insulation stripped off and touched the valve cover. when they replaced the CPS - they re-installed the engine cover and it cought a wire from my injector and grounded it to the fuel rail. they better eat that cost.

SL-ML-C

its back in for service - same problem, cranks and cranks to no avail but it does cough once or twice when I start it

davidbho

I had a similar issue, but my car would shut off when hot. And not restart. Continuous cranking though...Crank position sensor...but you replaced that already...good luck man, keep us posted.

I have 110k on my 02 ML55, with only a few of the common issues...fuel gauge misread-sensor fixed, and cps thing, and cracked cat (under re-call warranty)

ldangeli

I ended up blowing up the transmission. They've replaced it. Now it is acting funny. Throttle response is crap and it shifting hard. They said, "break in period" I said BS, when I bought the car, with 25 miles on it, it never did that!

SL-ML-C

they say its because of insufficient voltage from the ignition to the MU... make sense to anyone when it starts cold most of the time?

SL-ML-C

yeah - I call BS too, thats not normal behavior for a transmission no matter the condition. have them adjust whatever it is that tells the MU about throttle position.. or something like that its what makes sense to me.