ML320's common problems
Before this happen, trunk stalled & wait for 1/2hour and run ( for few time)
I have replaced crack position sensor, run good for a month, now no starting ( look like same problem) everything look very normal, no code, no error on dark, doors lock/unlock ok, fuel pressure is good 40psi,
Only two things is a lot of gas smell in tail pipe & no spake in all coils?
Any help please only truck we got.
Thanks
Ps: another cps?
I got the crank sensor at a auto parts store for $50.00 verses $150.00 though my local Mercedes dealer. The key I did have to go there for. That was $155.00. The battery was also about $110.00 at Napa. The mass air flow cost me about $300.00. So I would start with getting it checked and what codes are coming up and start from there.
Hi, is your problem solved now?
i have a merc ML320 ( model : 2002 ) automatic transmission.mileage : 200,000kms
issues is it jerks with a grinding sound when shifter stick is moved to D or R and on start up the "low range" blinks 19 times.
in D mode it will not upshift to 2nd gear and if i hit the acceleration pedal the RPM only goes up..
error codes read are : P240D , P2600 & P1831
i have changed the transmission oil ( was dark when removed) with 5 liters TITAN ATF and also blowered the transmission control module and replaced the plug
P240D :The current transfer case sent from control unit N78(Transfer case control module)via
the CAN bus is implausible
p2600-the voltage supply of circuit 87 has undervoltage
p1831- low range
The first thing to do is drop the Transfer Case fluid and see if there are metal particles in it. If there is, it's time for a new one. Two qts. of M/B transmission fluid is needed to refill.
You might also need a new Transfer Case Motor.
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...ml#post5051186
The first thing to do is drop the Transfer Case fluid and see if there are metal particles in it. If there is, it's time for a new one. Two qts. of M/B transmission fluid is needed to refill.
You might also need a new Transfer Case Motor.
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...ml#post5051186
forgot to mention ..the Low range flash has been there for a while and the shift issue happened 3 months back only and it went off just like that. and came again last week but this time its like for ever..
do you think the low range issue and the shift issue are related or 2 independent issues ?
and could this be a relay ( which relay is connected to transfer case module and motor ?? ) or wiring issue as the codes read voltage drop ?
if so please provide me with any circuit diag related to circuit 87 and transfer case control module ( how can i reach it ) and the testing method of the motor when it is in the circuit itself.. voltage input required to test the relay corresponding to transfer case and its activation situation.
any info would be of great help.. thanks again
Secondly, there is no relay for the Transfer Case, only fuses 8 and 22.
Thirdly, yes I do believe that the Low Range problem is causing your problem, but you will have to determine if the noises are coming from the Trans. Case. I suggested what to do and you just keep asking questions.
Here is the diagram that you requested. Note that by pressing the Low Range Sw. S97/6, it sends a ground signal to the Trans. Case Control Module which then activates the Low Range Motor.
Also remember that after every repair, that the codes in every module must be cleared.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
When you input the numbers from your code (one at a time), press the on/off button for the radio to set them in the system. Press the Enter button after you've entered all of the code numbers.
Note, you may have to disconnect one of the battery cables to get the radio to reset so you can input the code. you'll also have to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right to get the ABS light to turn off.
If you are in the USA, this service is provided for free. Elsewhere, a fee may apply.
If your radio says wait, you put in the code incorrectly. If you do that a few times, it makes you wait longer.
I can't sell it because of the miles but we put it on the scope a couple of weeks ago and got no negative codes. Compression is strong, no head gasket leaks, all the windows and the power sun roof work. I have some chipping of paint on the bumpers. Oh yeah the springs on the cup holders don't work anymore but they still fold away just fine.
I drive it 100 miles a day to work.
I get 26 plus mpg.
This is without doubt the best car I have ever owned.
It's getting a little expensive now, so a pointer in the right direction would be appreciated. I have seen posts about O2 sensors and Cats being changed, is this the next step?
Thanks in advance.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...ml#post4758003
If it keeps coming back after you clear it, you'll have to adjust the position of the camshaft. This will mean opening up the engine, which is something your mechanic is understandably not keen to do.
It is more expensive to replace parts that are not faulty and don't fix the problem.
Last edited by DrX; May 17, 2015 at 10:47 PM.
I'm going to bed and I'll look at it tomorrow.



