Donttrinh

Can some body help / advised
Before this happen, trunk stalled & wait for 1/2hour and run ( for few time)
I have replaced crack position sensor, run good for a month, now no starting ( look like same problem) everything look very normal, no code, no error on dark, doors lock/unlock ok, fuel pressure is good 40psi,
Only two things is a lot of gas smell in tail pipe & no spake in all coils?
Any help please only truck we got.

Thanks

Ps: another cps?

Lspc79

Hi, is your problem solved now?

bonnie4yoga

1999 ml320…seems to be stuck in first gear ..check engine light on too …help !!!

Maj. Dundee

You must find a mechanic who has a professional grade scanner, with Euro. package, who can read M/B 3 digit transmission codes to pinpoint the problem.

matt2015

hi ,

i have a merc ML320 ( model : 2002 ) automatic transmission.mileage : 200,000kms
issues is it jerks with a grinding sound when shifter stick is moved to D or R and on start up the "low range" blinks 19 times.
in D mode it will not upshift to 2nd gear and if i hit the acceleration pedal the RPM only goes up..
error codes read are : P240D , P2600 & P1831

i have changed the transmission oil ( was dark when removed) with 5 liters TITAN ATF and also blowered the transmission control module and replaced the plug



P240D :The current transfer case sent from control unit N78(Transfer case control module)via
the CAN bus is implausible
p2600-the voltage supply of circuit 87 has undervoltage
p1831- low range

Maj. Dundee

This isn't a transmission problem it's a transfer case problem.

The first thing to do is drop the Transfer Case fluid and see if there are metal particles in it. If there is, it's time for a new one. Two qts. of M/B transmission fluid is needed to refill.

You might also need a new Transfer Case Motor.

https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...ml#post5051186

matt2015

first of all thanks for the quick reply Maj. Dundee

forgot to mention ..the Low range flash has been there for a while and the shift issue happened 3 months back only and it went off just like that. and came again last week but this time its like for ever..

do you think the low range issue and the shift issue are related or 2 independent issues ?

and could this be a relay ( which relay is connected to transfer case module and motor ?? ) or wiring issue as the codes read voltage drop ?

if so please provide me with any circuit diag related to circuit 87 and transfer case control module ( how can i reach it ) and the testing method of the motor when it is in the circuit itself.. voltage input required to test the relay corresponding to transfer case and its activation situation.
any info would be of great help.. thanks again

Maj. Dundee

Firstly, all of your relays are numbered wrong. Didn't you look at the chart on the back of the fuse box cover?

Secondly, there is no relay for the Transfer Case, only fuses 8 and 22.

Thirdly, yes I do believe that the Low Range problem is causing your problem, but you will have to determine if the noises are coming from the Trans. Case. I suggested what to do and you just keep asking questions.

Here is the diagram that you requested. Note that by pressing the Low Range Sw. S97/6, it sends a ground signal to the Trans. Case Control Module which then activates the Low Range Motor.

Also remember that after every repair, that the codes in every module must be cleared.

Indiana Boy

If you get the WAIT message, you have pressed the "Enter" button below the screen when you input the code digits.

When you input the numbers from your code (one at a time), press the on/off button for the radio to set them in the system. Press the Enter button after you've entered all of the code numbers.

Note, you may have to disconnect one of the battery cables to get the radio to reset so you can input the code. you'll also have to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right to get the ABS light to turn off.

Bloggster

My 99 ML 320 is at 299,936 miles on the odometer. I bought it many years ago with 100,000 miles on the clock. Since then I have changed the CAT converters, and performed routine maintenance.

I can't sell it because of the miles but we put it on the scope a couple of weeks ago and got no negative codes. Compression is strong, no head gasket leaks, all the windows and the power sun roof work. I have some chipping of paint on the bumpers. Oh yeah the springs on the cup holders don't work anymore but they still fold away just fine.

I drive it 100 miles a day to work.

I get 26 plus mpg.

This is without doubt the best car I have ever owned.

ML320Bell

I'm hoping somebody can help me out here. I have an 02 ML320 Petrol with 110,000 miles on the clock. I recently had the engine light come on with the code P203D displayed. This also followed by misfires. My mechanic has changed the spark plugs, the Air mass unit and the crank shaft sensor. None of this has helped ad the engine light has come straight back on today.
It's getting a little expensive now, so a pointer in the right direction would be appreciated. I have seen posts about O2 sensors and Cats being changed, is this the next step?
Thanks in advance.

DrX

No, the next step is to address the fault shown by the code. P203D means the right bank camshaft's timing is out. (bank 1)
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...ml#post4758003

If it keeps coming back after you clear it, you'll have to adjust the position of the camshaft. This will mean opening up the engine, which is something your mechanic is understandably not keen to do.

It is more expensive to replace parts that are not faulty and don't fix the problem.

ML320Bell

Thank you DrX. I'll get him to have a look at that. I was also told that it might be the secondary air pump, is this worth changing at the same time?


Thanks again for your help.

DrX

You're welcome. If your mechanic wants to change more parts that aren't broken, then if the car is driveable, I would be taking it elsewhere. Being clueless is ignorance; trying to rip you off is criminal.

Bourbaki

Absolutely no idea what just happened! Just a short drive home of less than 1/2 mile and after about half way (3 minutes travelling at a rate of 25 mph) in darkness driving with low beams only, the brights came on, the windshield wipers started, the turn signals all started blinking, the horn sounded intermittedly, the alarm sounded intermittedly, most of the warning lamps started flashing, it was a friggin nightmare and there may have been more going on I gust wanted to get it shut down and to shut up. I was still a bit from home but a neighbor gave me tools to disconnect the battery and I walked home.

I'm going to bed and I'll look at it tomorrow.