ML320's common problems
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
ML320's common problems
I have a 2000 ML320 with 120K miles. Overall, it has been a problem-free ride but as of late it has had some probelms. A couple of months ago the ABS pump went bad and yesterday I had to have the crankshaft sensor change. I fully expect that at 120K miles somethings to go wrong, but I am worried that one of these days I will have a major expense on my hands.
Up to now, I really had not considered selling it, but now I am wondering if it is time. In other words, I am trying to do a cost benefit analysis as to which is a better option.
With this background in mind, my question is if there is a list of common problems with the ML320, and specifically the 2000 vintage.
Many thanks
Up to now, I really had not considered selling it, but now I am wondering if it is time. In other words, I am trying to do a cost benefit analysis as to which is a better option.
With this background in mind, my question is if there is a list of common problems with the ML320, and specifically the 2000 vintage.
Many thanks
#2
Super Member
I am just like you at 128K miles on my 2000 ML320
If you have kept your car well maintained (like me)...you are right, the major problems could start to show up past the 125K mark, and it becomes questionable, whether it is worth keeping this ride for long.
Here's what I would advice looking for:
1. Fuel pump (if you haven't gone through it yet) $600
2. Oxygen sensors (if you haven't gone through them yet) $300
3. If your tranny has been trouble free so far, I would not worry about it until the 175K mark. $4000 (I am assuming you got it flushed are refilled at 100K miles)
4. Alternator (I have never heard of the alternator being having to be replaced on an ML, but from my experience with other cars, they tend to break down at some point or the other) $400
5. Head gasket leak (again unheard of on the ML, but common on the BMW's) $2500
6. Door lock acutators (I have gone through all 5 of them by now) $350/pop
7. Wiper motor (I have gone through this one too) $550
Rest could be body/upholstry work, but that depends on how well you have kept it. I have only had to get my driver side seat cover and the A pillar fabric replaced on mine so far. The driver side window switch is showing initial signs of needing replacement, but I might be able to get another year out of it.
On the paint front, the clear coat is starting to show signs of peeling on the bumpers (it is always the bumpers on which the paint job fails first, because of the non-metallic material which tends to expand and contract more than metal with temperature changes, therby causing the paint job to weaken), so that could be another expense to look out for.
But minor upholstry/body work can be delayed/ignored.
Except for the trip computer light not working (again, minor annoyance), I have no other current outstanding issues on my ML. I am planning to keep it and roll it down to 200K miles..
My 2 cents.
Here's what I would advice looking for:
1. Fuel pump (if you haven't gone through it yet) $600
2. Oxygen sensors (if you haven't gone through them yet) $300
3. If your tranny has been trouble free so far, I would not worry about it until the 175K mark. $4000 (I am assuming you got it flushed are refilled at 100K miles)
4. Alternator (I have never heard of the alternator being having to be replaced on an ML, but from my experience with other cars, they tend to break down at some point or the other) $400
5. Head gasket leak (again unheard of on the ML, but common on the BMW's) $2500
6. Door lock acutators (I have gone through all 5 of them by now) $350/pop
7. Wiper motor (I have gone through this one too) $550
Rest could be body/upholstry work, but that depends on how well you have kept it. I have only had to get my driver side seat cover and the A pillar fabric replaced on mine so far. The driver side window switch is showing initial signs of needing replacement, but I might be able to get another year out of it.
On the paint front, the clear coat is starting to show signs of peeling on the bumpers (it is always the bumpers on which the paint job fails first, because of the non-metallic material which tends to expand and contract more than metal with temperature changes, therby causing the paint job to weaken), so that could be another expense to look out for.
But minor upholstry/body work can be delayed/ignored.
Except for the trip computer light not working (again, minor annoyance), I have no other current outstanding issues on my ML. I am planning to keep it and roll it down to 200K miles..
My 2 cents.
Last edited by mihir_d; 05-28-2009 at 01:55 PM.
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#3
Super Member
I think mihir d covered everything...
Personally...I am at 140K. As of this point...a $400 set of tires, and $300 for two new keys, power steering recall, and blender motor for the A/C have been my costs. I get free oil changes from my dealership...so that is $50 every month saved. I intend to drive this truck to 200K as well.
I can tell you the exhaust has a tend to fail around 100-150K miles. Specifically the Cats. I would get that done asap. You can go stock for $2500 (complete system) or you could replace with aftermarket. I called last night and got a quote for $250 to put a flowmaster 70 (cut two cats out) and attach dual AMG tips plus all piping and labor included.
Hope this info helps!
Personally...I am at 140K. As of this point...a $400 set of tires, and $300 for two new keys, power steering recall, and blender motor for the A/C have been my costs. I get free oil changes from my dealership...so that is $50 every month saved. I intend to drive this truck to 200K as well.
I can tell you the exhaust has a tend to fail around 100-150K miles. Specifically the Cats. I would get that done asap. You can go stock for $2500 (complete system) or you could replace with aftermarket. I called last night and got a quote for $250 to put a flowmaster 70 (cut two cats out) and attach dual AMG tips plus all piping and labor included.
Hope this info helps!
#4
Super Member
I forgot to mention the CATs..
So my CATs were replaced under the emissions warranty at around 72K miles..
For those who have had their CATs replaced once, I haven't heard of them fail again from anyone who has reached the 200K mile mark...
Its only the Tranny, Head Gasket or CATs that can be a killer expense going forward to the 200K mile mark..the other ones are not too bad..
And Yes, I have lost 1 key in 9 years (not bad) $135 for a replacement.
I did not mention tires, brakes, battery & oil changes because those are unavoidable consumable expenses..
For those who have had their CATs replaced once, I haven't heard of them fail again from anyone who has reached the 200K mile mark...
Its only the Tranny, Head Gasket or CATs that can be a killer expense going forward to the 200K mile mark..the other ones are not too bad..
And Yes, I have lost 1 key in 9 years (not bad) $135 for a replacement.
I did not mention tires, brakes, battery & oil changes because those are unavoidable consumable expenses..
Last edited by mihir_d; 05-28-2009 at 01:51 PM.
#5
How can you tell if you have bad CATs? I was driving my ML and someone told me that I had some kind of heavy burning gasoline smell and recommended I have my CATs checked. Idk if it anything related to this.
#6
Junior Member
I'll tell you how you can tell... your truck will quit running! One of mine clogged and the whole system went into limp mode, 5 of the 6 cylinders were misfiring and I had absolutely NO power... 20mph max... I barely made it up hill a few times... and I don't mean SF hills, I life in N Central TX for me a hill is like a 2% grade!
#7
154K and going strong....
fdk110,
If it makes you feel better I have a 2001 ML320 (154K) with no major issues (note: I have never pulled a trailer).
The only thing I have had to replace is the differential gasket, power steering res. O-ring, new battery, recent coolant flush, minor valve cover leak, changed spark plugs at 100K (Bosch Fusion's), and all lock actuators were greased with WD-40 (no problem yet).
Potential issues:
The fuel filter has not been changed and/or converted to new system. MAF has been acting up lately, but then again I ran a K&N for approx. a year (self inflicted).
One thing that helps tremendously is keeping her cleaned and running full synthetic
If it makes you feel better I have a 2001 ML320 (154K) with no major issues (note: I have never pulled a trailer).
The only thing I have had to replace is the differential gasket, power steering res. O-ring, new battery, recent coolant flush, minor valve cover leak, changed spark plugs at 100K (Bosch Fusion's), and all lock actuators were greased with WD-40 (no problem yet).
Potential issues:
The fuel filter has not been changed and/or converted to new system. MAF has been acting up lately, but then again I ran a K&N for approx. a year (self inflicted).
One thing that helps tremendously is keeping her cleaned and running full synthetic
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#10
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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1998 ML 320 1975 450 SL
Hey Jeffnghime By now you have had to replace the window switch. If you ever find your self in the same situation, remove the switch, spray it with WD-40 and you may get a few more days out of it on till your replacement arrives. I got mine on eBay for around $100.00
Boston Mark
Boston Mark
#12
Newbie
ML320 (2002) - Windshield Wiper Malfunction
I have a ML320, '02 Model with little under 90K mileage. Would like more information on windshield wiper malfunction. No initial problems prior to onset, but noticed during a severe storm that only one wiper worked. Please advise where this problem my have stemmed and what to expect cost wise to repair. Need Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#13
Senior Member
wipers have two basic components.
the motor and the transmission.
my recollection is they were both around 100-150 each.
if it's one wiper then the transmission has given up the ghost.
taking it apart is annoying enough, I'd just replace both while your at it.
I think the dealership was ~3 hours of labor.
the motor and the transmission.
my recollection is they were both around 100-150 each.
if it's one wiper then the transmission has given up the ghost.
taking it apart is annoying enough, I'd just replace both while your at it.
I think the dealership was ~3 hours of labor.
#14
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1999 Mercedes ML320
I'll tell you how you can tell... your truck will quit running! One of mine clogged and the whole system went into limp mode, 5 of the 6 cylinders were misfiring and I had absolutely NO power... 20mph max... I barely made it up hill a few times... and I don't mean SF hills, I life in N Central TX for me a hill is like a 2% grade!
I have the same problem, can you please tell me how did you solve that issue?
Thank you in advance
IMF
#15
Junior Member
Just replace the catalytic converter. To tell the truth, I don't remember how I knew which one it was. It might have been a process of elimination. I had replaced one a few years before. I don't think it was code related. I seem to recall hearing a rattle from one of them before it clogged (loose debris from the honeycomb). It was about 4 years ago so I'm kind vague.
Hope that is helpful somehow.
Hope that is helpful somehow.
#16
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1999 Mercedes ML320
Just replace the catalytic converter. To tell the truth, I don't remember how I knew which one it was. It might have been a process of elimination. I had replaced one a few years before. I don't think it was code related. I seem to recall hearing a rattle from one of them before it clogged (loose debris from the honeycomb). It was about 4 years ago so I'm kind vague.
Hope that is helpful somehow.
Hope that is helpful somehow.
Did you remember if bought original or from other supplier?
Once again thank you for your fast reply.
IMF
#17
I'll tell you how you can tell... your truck will quit running! One of mine clogged and the whole system went into limp mode, 5 of the 6 cylinders were misfiring and I had absolutely NO power... 20mph max... I barely made it up hill a few times... and I don't mean SF hills, I life in N Central TX for me a hill is like a 2% grade!
#19
Same problem...
JoseHidalgo I have the exact same problem, can some one please help? (I have my code & still says WAIT)
#20
Need a little help here. I just purchased a 2001 ml320 from a local dealer.... It has 121k. Ii will start and run for a few minutes then quit.... The car will turn over but not fire. I usually let it sit for awhile like 30 minutes then it might start. I just changed the battery, and that doesn't seem to be the fix. A shop put in a new crank sensor... Any help I can get would be great!!
#21
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2002 ML320, 2003 A160
If you are in the USA, this service is provided for free. Elsewhere, a fee may apply.
If your radio says wait, you put in the code incorrectly. If you do that a few times, it makes you wait longer.
Last edited by DrX; 11-12-2013 at 10:25 PM.
#22
Need a little help here. I just purchased a 2001 ml320 from a local dealer.... It has 121k. Ii will start and run for a few minutes then quit.... The car will turn over but not fire. I usually let it sit for awhile like 30 minutes then it might start. I just changed the battery, and that doesn't seem to be the fix. A shop put in a new crank sensor... Any help I can get would be great!!
#23
Did you get your ml run yet?
Need a little help here. I just purchased a 2001 ml320 from a local dealer.... It has 121k. Ii will start and run for a few minutes then quit.... The car will turn over but not fire. I usually let it sit for awhile like 30 minutes then it might start. I just changed the battery, and that doesn't seem to be the fix. A shop put in a new crank sensor... Any help I can get would be great!!
I have same problem, try everything still not running yes.
Last edited by Donttrinh; 11-20-2013 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Cps does not work ( try two )
#25
Yes! I changed the crank position sensor, got a new battery and a new key. I did also get the mass air flow sensor changed. It might have been just the crank position sensor or all of them together.
I got the crank sensor at a auto parts store for $50.00 verses $150.00 though my local Mercedes dealer. The key I did have to go there for. That was $155.00. The battery was also about $110.00 at Napa. The mass air flow cost me about $300.00. So I would start with getting it checked and what codes are coming up and start from there.
I got the crank sensor at a auto parts store for $50.00 verses $150.00 though my local Mercedes dealer. The key I did have to go there for. That was $155.00. The battery was also about $110.00 at Napa. The mass air flow cost me about $300.00. So I would start with getting it checked and what codes are coming up and start from there.