2000 ML320
First time this happened, My wife went to work, When she went to leave the car wouldn't start,
We left it over night, And the next morning it stared right up.Yesterday it happened to me,
I went to the store and drove home, It sat for 2 hr. went to start it it just kept spinning over,
I had to turn the key off to make it stop turning over, Left it over night it stared right up.
I never owned a Mercedes, I am a retired Mechanic and never ran into this kind of trouble,
Any one have this problem and what was the cause?

 

Try checking the fuses in the engine bay. Mine wouldn't start yesterday after a trip over rough roads. Looked in there pulled and reinserted all fuses related to the engine systems and voila, car started! Sometime this weekend I am going to pull each fuse to see what effect it has on the car, in regards to indications and other problems. Then I will publish a table of my results

 

Sweeper, Thanks for the info, Hope your not where the flooding is happening, I'll check the fuses tomorrow the car starts now so I'll change the fuses and hope for the best. Thanks again Gene Terenzio Sr. P/S good idea checking fuses& post results

 

Well I checked all the fuses and I WD 40 where the fuses go, So far so good, Ill let you all know if this worked, As it only happens so often. Geno

 

on all mb there is a crank sensor if it gets hot the car will not statrt after 30 min later it will start as it cools down keep it in mind and monater when it is not starting

 

Driving about in 37+ Celsius temperatures and after stopping, my ML has started this bad habit, obviously heat soak. Now looking up how to replace this sensor is not a worry, but, the advice is that the computers have to be "recalibrated" is this true, or is it just a matter of driving until the computers sort themselves out? I have an OBDC scanner and it reports a stored fault "P0335" a crcuit malfunction, but also states that the check engine light is on. On my dash the light isn't on, (it is on when you turn the key to position 2 as normal), does this indicate it is only an intermittant fault?

 

Here in Northeast PA. USA, its been below freezing for the last 4 days
( 32 fah.) I haven't had the problem since i sprayed WD 40 in the fuse box ( soaked all of it ) Gene

 

Problem still their, sounds like its not getting fuel, but if the fuel pump was bad it would not start at all? could it be the fuel filter?
Heres an articel i just found. I wonder if i put som fuel injector cleaner in the tank will it clean the pump?. © 1998-2005 Harald Pietschmann
M-Class fuel pump failure
I filled up in Los Angeles after a fuel pump replacement and added fuel on
I-5 (Chevron on both occasions) drove 450 miles to Georgetown/California. The next morning (June 2000) the vehicle did not want to start anymore. What a surprise after a new pump and some other new goodies (new AAM, new fuse board etc). I immediately talked to an engineer at MBUSI in Tuscaloosa and he recommended the "hammer-treatment" - it worked. My M stated up and I took it to the closest dealer to get yet another fuel pump.

Here is the inside scoop:
The pump failures have very little to do with bad pump design. Pump
failures are only known in the US . MB engineers at MBUSI told me (my
replacement pump had failed one day after installation) that operators
of US gas stations rarely ever stick to the recommended filter change intervalls (to save money) and we ML drivers end up with contaminated gas.

Here is what happens according to MB research: The gas inside some
underground tanks dissolves the protective liner. The liner ends up as a
gooey substance in our tanks. As long as the pump is running there is no
problem. After shutting down the substance hardens inside the pump and
freezes it. Have someone hit the bottom of the tank with a big hammer
while someone else is starting up at the same time and most likely
you'll get the vehicle running again - then drive to the dealer as soon
as possible to get the pump replaced.

Frozen pumps sent for evaluation to Stuttgart did work when they arrived
there - without the presence of gas the "glue" had hardened to a point
that it got brittle and the pumps worked again.

MB is testing an additional filter inside the ML tank to keep the pump
happy. Most newer European cars BMW, Audi etc experience the same fuel pump problems. Here is the fuel pump manufacturer. Why don't Japanese cars suffer from this? Wolfgang Henke has the answer.



© 1998-2005 Harald Pietschmann

 

Just replaced the CPS in the car, no issues so far and it has been hot plus a couple of long heat soaks. The cps was replaced easily, just cost $52.00 for the sensor and $30.00 for a socket set to fit

 

replace the cps crank sensor www.autohausaz.com
42 or 60 bucks confirm clip style before ordering.
Stop chasing what it is not and replace what it it is
Congrats sweeper
Often the clue is the cps throws no code at all nor a cel.That is the tip off to the issue.
A clear code indicating cps circuit leaves no doubt. That is why a scanner is always handy to have in the tool box.
Only 60 bucks at harborfreight tools.

 

Yes a scanner is essential when the globe for the cel is blown! So that is the next thing on the repair list. Do you know (or anybody else) what led's can be used to replace the globes? Specifically a T5 or T10 type?

 

OK, I'll buy that, but every time i want to get some thing they ask for a chassis # some other sites say its the vin # but the #;s the sites i go to have a compleatly differant # my vin # is 4JGAB54EOYA161175 CAN YOU TELL WHAT THE CHASSIS # IS FROM THIS?

 

A161175

 

Here's what i get when i look for a fuel filter, completly differant chassis #


zoom



Availability: In Stock

• Features
• Description

Features

Brand:MahleProduct Fit:OE replacementWarranty:12-month or 12,000-mile warranty

Description

See Catalog



Product Fit
Fit Note

• Chas: -X754619, As originally delivered, this model was equipped with fuel filter 163 477 02 01 which is no longer available. When replacing with 163 477 07 01 fuel filter, (1) 163 470 28 64 fuel line, (1) 163 470 29 64 fuel line, and (1) 163 470 37 64 fuel line are required.

Fits 2000 Mercedes Benz ML320

• 1998-2003: All Submodels; All Engines;

 

Your truck is a 2000 model. If the filter has not been previously replaced, it probably has the old filter and will require the retrofit kit with the new hoses and such. My resource shows the chassis number split as follows:

up to A289559 or X754619 came with old setup and will need retrofit kit

from A289560 or X754620 does not need the hoses replaced.

Since your chassis number is A161175, you'll need the new hoses if it hasn't already been done.

 

OOOOOHHHH, Now I get It, I missed the minus sign- in the add, Thanks, I called Mercedes Of Manhattan, as they were the ones that serviced this truck, They told me all up dates and recalls were done, So I just need the new style filter? it only has 64.000 miles on it do you think they would have replaced the filter and lines? the car fax didn't report that they did?

 

In my opinion, that one's a coin toss. Only way to know for certain is to check the part number on the installed filter or personally review the service records. The old number is 163 477 02 01 and the new one is 163 477 07 01.

 

All fixed, Sensor, Adv. auto, $59.95, Inverted torks set, $14.00, Code reader, $109.00 got it for $89.95, Plus Tax, Harb. Fright. So Far so good, Drove it all day no problems, Sat for 3 hours, Just went and started it, It fired right up,
Thanks guys, Geno. PS. I also put 4 oz. of marvel mystery oil in the fuel tank to keep the pump lubed.

 

Keep the tool and xtra crank sensor in your first aid kit as a spare!

 

Ok I'm have a new issue which seems the same as Geno777 in his original post. For the first time, my ML didn't start, and kept cranking until I stopped it. then after 5 min or so it started up on the second try. Car is running smooth, doesn't stall. About 5k ago I upgraded the fuel pump/lines/filter. I don't have a CEL light on. Any thoughts?

 

My problem ws a cracked crank sensor, haven't had a problem since i replace it, Easy to replace go to harbor freight buy inverted torks set $14.00 go to advanced auto, $60 some thing, buy crank sensor, or get it from Mercedes, i got mine from advanced and had to file it down to make the wire clip into place. its on the drivers side on the bell housing, got to be a Little bit of a contortionist, ones you get it out plug the wire into it ,put the bolt in the hole of the sensor and put some heavy grease to hold the bolt in place, slide the sensor into the hole it came out of with the socket and an extension on the bolt, sound hard but its not.

 

Ok great thanks. I'm going to monitor it for a bit, just to make sure it doesn't start throwing codes. I'll probably order the part in the next week or so.