I'm sure the "machine-gun lock" issue has been discussed numerous times here, but simply replacing the parts isn't always the best first approach to solving the problem. As a new Benz owner, I am baffled as to what's really going on with my low-mile (111k) '99 ML320. Here's the scenario with the door locking system. First, the factory original remote doesn't operate anything, even with a new set of batteries. The power button in the console will lock the right side front and rear door, as well as the rear hatch. It does not do anything to either left driver's side doors. Manually, you can push the front driver's door button down and it pops right back up. The rear driver's door won't even go down. When driving, the machine gun effect takes place from the start (both passenger doors) then randomly while driving. When stopped and the car turned off, the unlock function of the console switch will unlock the front right door and rear hatch, but the right rear door must be opened manually. Despite being a master mechanic since the 1970s, I'm at a loss to get my head around this problem. The mechanical aspect is not a problem, I can do the procedure, but I do not subscribe to the theory that replacing everything without understanding what caused it is the best approach. What appears obvious here, is that the left front and rear door actuators are most likely bad, or at best, the wiring is not providing power to them. What Im not understanding is the way the right side mechanisms are acting and why both driver's doors don't work. If anyone has a philosophy about what's going on, please advise on what you believe to be the problems and what process would be best to confirm these are in fact the issues. I simply don't want to spend the time and money replacing the lock actuators only to find the problem isn't solved. Your help is appreciated.

 

I have a 98 ML320 with a similar issue. My research indicates a bad AAM (all activity module). I'm yet to replace mine so I'm not sure what the cost will be. Just wanted to give some direction to your search. Hope it was helpful.

 

Have you tried to resynch your remote key? Key to position 2, back & remove. Within 10 sec, press & hold down "lock all", then press "unlock" 5 times in a row. Release "lock all", press any button (except panic) once. Remote should then work. (The procedure is in your owner's manual.)

If that doesn't work, remove the batteries, clean the contacts and try again. If you can't fix it, you have a bigger problem. Maybe a faulty AAM.

As for your door locks, it could be just 2 bad components. Read the attached documents.

The front driver's door sounds like it's working as designed. Does it lock when it's closed and you press the lock-all button? If not, there might be a fuse/wiring problem to the driver's side doors. Or bad actuators, or a faulty AAM.

The driver's door button pops up so you can't accidentally lock your key inside. You have to use the blade key to lock it from the outside.

 

HAVE HAD MY VEHICLE SCANNED BY LOCAL MERC REPAIRER,CAUSE OF REMOTE DOOR LOCKING NOT ACTIVATING IS THE AAM MODULE,I HAVE ORDERED ONE FROM A SUPPLIER BUT MY PROBLEM NOW IS WHERE IS THE MDULE LOCATED IN THE THE VEHICLE(2001 ML320).HAVE SHOP MANUALS FOR MY OTHER CARS BUT CANNOT FIND ANYTHING ON THE BENZ REGARDS LORKS

 

You must remove both covers to the fuse/relay module, then pull it out of the box.

 

To Maj. Dundee, thankyou very much for your help.

 

No central lock by key Blade, (Key Buttons do not sync, have tried 'resync'. Key transmits as I can hear on FM radio)
Problem:- cannot "central lock" with key, Key Unlocks all doors but won't lock ? Console central lock bounces door locks up&down if drivers door open, (we can lock by closing front doors, climb in rear side door & press console central lock button, all doors lock & I get out rear side door> lock car OK.
Is there a fault or Is it Impossible to "Key lock" without "Key" central locking working ??
Am I fixing what is not broken ?
I have door apart & all seems OK (Not stripped lock yet)
All door latches OK as lights come on as any opened & go off when closed proving the switches are OK in mech,
The doors all unlock with key on either side lock, But I Cannot lock with keyblade on either side !!?

I need to lock with the Keyblade
Can anybody Help ??

Thank you
John & Joy

 

I had the same door issue as you described. MB Service Manual recommended to swap the Relay in Fuse box, located next to the battery, swap the LF door relay with trunk door relay to see if the issue follows the relay, all yellow relays are the same type and safe to swap with key off ignition, while during this i discovered the 20A fuse at F42 next to the All Door relay is blown, replaced the fuse fixed my issue.

 

What is the aam?

 

The AAM is the All Activities Module or Body Control Module.

 

I have a similar problem, the only way I can get the remote to work is to do what the manual describes, hold the all lock button while pushing the unlock button 5 times. This locks the doors 1 time. To unlock the car the key must be used. All doors lock from the inside with the key on however the door must be opened to unlock all the doors. The batteries are new in my remote. I have also purchased a new one. The only thing that one will do is start the car. The dealer can't give me a quote on the repair. Scary. Do you think this AAM is the problem and would it have tho be programmed to work?

 

Yes, I strongly suspect that your AAM is bad. For your new key to operate the remote functions, the car must be plugged into a computer to have the key programmed in so that your car recognizes it. This is an anti-theft measure.

Programming your new key should cost around US$70-90 at an MB dealer. If the new key malfunctions, you will need to replace the AAM. A used one might work depending on your ML's model year. You can enter the year in User CP so it appears under your user name.

 

The dealer tried to program the new key and couldn't. That's when they said they didn't know what was wrong couldn't give me a price. I think they didn't want tho mess with it

 

Ml model number? What is a user cp?

 

When you view the full site, click on your username in the top right corner and a drop-down menu will appear, listing "User CP", "Inbox", "Contacts", etc. Click on User CP and enter the build date of your ML, which you can find on a label at the bottom of the frame when you open the driver's door.

Edit: Thanks for updating. The good news is, for your 2001 ML, a used AAM will work after it's programmed to recognize your old keys. See this thread for details: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...l#post11455737

 

I have the same issue with my 2002 Mercedes ml320 with all locks working except the drivers side. I have to manually lock it with a key. While driving the other locks with recycle and it drives me crazy. I took mine to a certified MB repairman and was told when he took it all apart that I need an entire lock mechanism which is $400 just for the part without labor.
My car also is rusting.....is other people having issues with rust? I was told when I bought it that Mercedes never rust. Being my first Mercedes, I believed the salesman. of course, they are now out of business.
Thanks,

 

You can get a second hand actuator for nothing......

 

Our ML (W164) has an intermittent problem with the driver side rear door lock.

When ambient temp is low (and only then), this one lock will not go into a locked position when pressing the button on the key. It needs to be locked from inside of the car. It never acts out at temps above the freezing point of water.

I am planning to remove the door panel and try to thoroughly dry the lock assembly and lube it afterwards. Which points in the lock and actuator mechanisms should I lube? Any other pointers?

 

You are on the wrong forum.
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w164-72/