Radiator removal
TIA,
David
I drove about 30 miles, all good, until I pulled into my brother's driveway which has a significant curb. Lights came on, tried to reset because I still had the icarsoft with me, no avail. Looked under the hood and found the broken radiator spewing coolant all over my newly rebuilt pump.
So, question is, did the coolant short my pump module out? Isn't it sealed from moisture? Or should I look into the possible intermittent term 30 issue.
PS: When I reset the ABS, the only code it was showing was the 1041 (?) code from the pressure pump. The can bus failure (term 30???) wasn't reading like it was prior to replacing the abs pump and motor.
1. It doesn't matter how much ATF might be lost in replacing the radiator, because you have to check and measure it anyway after refilling. The pipes are narrow, so it wouldn't be a lot.
2. Time to find a new workshop. It's not like he didn't know he broke something, but not telling you and letting you drive the car with damage to a critical system is beyond negligent. It's dangerous.
At least he should have test driven it and then checked for leaks.
1. It doesn't matter how much ATF might be lost in replacing the radiator, because you have to check and measure it anyway after refilling. The pipes are narrow, so it wouldn't be a lot.
2. Time to find a new workshop. It's not like he didn't know he broke something, but not telling you and letting you drive the car with damage to a critical system is beyond negligent. It's dangerous.
At least he should have test driven it and then checked for leaks.




(mechanically attached or friction fitted? In other words, . . . radiator is stubbornly stuck to the mounting horns rubber bushings.
How do I get it loose?)
the WIS Printout doesn't answer either of those questions, except by not calling out any other bolts/nuts/fasteners to loosen.
Taking cues from viewing a replacement radiator image.
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