Radiator removal

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Aug 11, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #1  
Are the rubber bushings at the bottom of my 1998 Mercedes ML320 radiator mechanically attached or friction fitted? In other words, I have everything loosened, but the radiator is stubbornly stuck to the mounting horns rubber bushings. How do I get it loose?
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Aug 12, 2013 | 09:27 AM
  #2  
Have you read this procedure and followed all the steps? If not, please reply if you need any extra instructions.


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May 2, 2017 | 10:06 AM
  #3  
Quote: Have you read this procedure and followed all the steps? If not, please reply if you need any extra instructions.
Hey Dr X, or anyone else, I had a shop R&R my ABS pump last week and in the process they broke off the radiator fitting for the overflow reservoir. They're replacing the radiator today and, looking at the .pdf you posted, there's nothing in the procedure about checking and topping up the ATF fluid. How much do you think it should take to replace the fluid lost with the new radiator and R&R-ing the lines? I want to take them some proper fluid because I'm sure they'll just dump any old ATF in there, if they bother to check it at all.

TIA,
David
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May 2, 2017 | 10:14 AM
  #4  
Also, related question but wrong thread: once they completed the work, abs,etc,bas lights were still on. I reset them with my icarsoft and they stayed off. (The shop reported they couldn't get then to go off, and didn't have 12V to term 30, but I'm getting ahead of myself)

I drove about 30 miles, all good, until I pulled into my brother's driveway which has a significant curb. Lights came on, tried to reset because I still had the icarsoft with me, no avail. Looked under the hood and found the broken radiator spewing coolant all over my newly rebuilt pump.

So, question is, did the coolant short my pump module out? Isn't it sealed from moisture? Or should I look into the possible intermittent term 30 issue.

PS: When I reset the ABS, the only code it was showing was the 1041 (?) code from the pressure pump. The can bus failure (term 30???) wasn't reading like it was prior to replacing the abs pump and motor.
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May 2, 2017 | 04:30 PM
  #5  
Hi David. 2 points.

1. It doesn't matter how much ATF might be lost in replacing the radiator, because you have to check and measure it anyway after refilling. The pipes are narrow, so it wouldn't be a lot.

2. Time to find a new workshop. It's not like he didn't know he broke something, but not telling you and letting you drive the car with damage to a critical system is beyond negligent. It's dangerous.

At least he should have test driven it and then checked for leaks.
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May 3, 2017 | 01:25 AM
  #6  
Quote: Hi David. 2 points.

1. It doesn't matter how much ATF might be lost in replacing the radiator, because you have to check and measure it anyway after refilling. The pipes are narrow, so it wouldn't be a lot.

2. Time to find a new workshop. It's not like he didn't know he broke something, but not telling you and letting you drive the car with damage to a critical system is beyond negligent. It's dangerous.

At least he should have test driven it and then checked for leaks.
All's well that ends well. New Radiator, N/C, are the ABS is working. More later.
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Aug 18, 2022 | 09:16 PM
  #7  
Reading this in 08 2022, with the same exact 2 questions.
(mechanically attached or friction fitted? In other words, . . . radiator is stubbornly stuck to the mounting horns rubber bushings.
How do I get it loose?)

the WIS Printout doesn't answer either of those questions, except by not calling out any other bolts/nuts/fasteners to loosen.

Taking cues from viewing a replacement radiator image.
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Apr 19, 2024 | 10:49 PM
  #8  
Did you figure it out? i am having the same issue.....
Thanks
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