instrument cluster lights come on but car wont crank just clicks and cluster lights dim.I think I blew battery terminal fuse .Can I reconnect the battery without this fuse in or does the battery need this to crank
HELP PLEASE

 

What battery terminal fuse are you talking about?

 

It sits on top of the positive battery lead and i think it is called the auxillary fan fuse link.It also seems to be the fuse for engine coolant light and Srs light

I have some sort of battery short as when turn on ignition instrument cluster lights up then dims then a click but no crank and then cluster lights go off bar very dim srs light
Have checked battery and is now at 11.9 v ,cleaned connectors but nothing works

Read somewhere about checking ground to chassis but dont know how to do this

 

Battery drained ,no lights on dash and what seems to be alarm going off permanently
battery disconnected and showing 9.9v via multimeter
Have cleaned battery connectors and grou nd but still no charge through terminals when connected
Have no idea what to do!!

 

Let's start with this:

When you turn the key to start, is there ONE click or are there multiple clicks?

 

Your battery seems flat. Charge your battery. It can show 11.9v without load but the moment you try to crank it fails. After you tried to crank it got worse 9,9v. Charge your battery!!!

 

There were multiple clicks

 

Multiple click means the the battery voltage is low or any of the connections to and from the battery are bad.

 

Thanks.Charged battery and that resolved.
Now only have problem of no gear changes to resolve
EGS52[GEARBOX] AT code when had another diagnostic,previously different system gave p1856
Guy said only merc could deal with this as was to do with gear shift module and would need replacement
0n another thread you felt that there were other reasons to do with oil in the seperator/connector and if if not then new ecu conductor plate to be fitted
Why if this is the case does each diagnostic keep bringing up new gear shift module required if you feel there is a more likley and tangible solution
Yours in total ignorance

 

Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP. as to your year and where you live.

Did this code appear before or after the battery problem?

 

before

 

Exactly what is the problem with the gearshift selector or the transmission?

Can the shifter be moved to any position without a problem?

Was there anything spilled on the shifter or did you leave the sunroof open and rain came in?

With the key on, check both sides of fuse #16 and see that there is 12v.

 

gear selector moves ok but does need parking brake to be fully depressed to change.Car wont change gear just revs .Noticed an injecter is blowing.Could this have caused ml to go into limp mode?
Nothing has been spilt and there has been no water ingress
Fuse 16 seems to be fine
Cheers

 

Sorry, but I don't understand any of this. Please explain each one separately.

 

Chris you are all over the place talking about different things. Please explain everything in detail one by one. Anything and everything can put the ML into limp mode.

 

sorry if have not been clear
1.After starting gear will go from park to drive ok and from drive to neutral ok but sticks when trying to put in reverse .Either have to jiggle with brake or turn ignition off to get into reverse.

2.When driving car does not move out of gear just stays in what presume is 2nd gear so will only go up to 45mph with very high revs

3..I assume rightly or wrongley that car is in limp mode

4.BAS/esp ets abs lights are on

5 One of the injectors is leaking ie chuffing

6 Neither of the diagnostics i had done even turned over engine just used computor and said new gear module required go to main dealer


Dont know if this any clearer

 

Originally you said the parking brake and now you say the brake. Which one is it and what do you mean by jiggle?

 

when going from neutral to reverse via drive parking brake has to be fully depressed

 

I just checked and it should be 11:07 AM where you are. Are you at work right now or are you home? I ask this because I don't want to sit by the computer if you won't be there.

1. eng. off ,turn the key to pos. #2, step on the regular brake pedal. Do the brake lights come on?

2. eng. off ,turn the key to pos. #2, shift it into REVERSE, do the brake lights come on and do the reverse light come on?

3. perform steps 1&2 with the eng. running. What are the results?

4. is depressing the parking brake while the eng. is running or does the eng. have to be shut off?

5. how did you come to trying the parking brake to get it to shift into reverse? I'm interested.

 

work from home
brake lights all work for all scenarios
shifter also works with park brake on whether engine on or off
It was pure accident about parking brake just desperation to try anything
Am staying online
Sorry about b4 now got home computor issues!!

 

Before anything, let's try to resolve the BAS light.

Start the engine and turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and then the other. See if the BAS light goes out.

 

no

 

OK, forget about the BAS light for the time being.

I have looked at the diagrams for both the parking brake and the shifter mechanism and on the surface they do not have anything in common. But anything is possible.

Remove the kick panel that covers the parking brake and disconnect the single wire connector and then try depressing it and see if you can shift or not.

Then with a DVOM test for continuity between body ground and the prong that the connector was on. You should show GROUND.

Then test the end of the wire of the removed connector for both voltage and ground.

Then reattach the connector and test the wire for voltage and ground.

 

Is there anything else that isn't working or acting funny, other than what you have said?

 

Do you or at one time have a leaky washer reservoir?