Maj. Dundee

You still didn't update your profile.

If code C1000 is showing up after you installed the used module, then it is a bad module. Return it and ask for a replacement.

StarvingArtist

I did update this morning... I thought.

The c1000 was before, that is gone, but there are lots mere now.

I found the relay, It was labeled in the cover! Imagine that, never would have guessed. I swapped it for the rear defrost relay.

Maj. Dundee

And what are those codes numbers that won't delete?

What relay are you referring to?

Maj. Dundee

As per your other post, these are the codes that will not clear/delete.

these are the current codes:

C1103-016 RPM Sensor RR L6/4
C1012-008 Voltage supply circuit 87 Overvoltage
C1314-004 Voltage supply solenoid valves A7/3
C1022-023 Fault in CAN communication with ME N3/10
C1120-020 ESP Yaw rate sensor N54 or sensor B24/15
C1629-000 ESP charging not avail
C1142-020 Lateral accel. sensor B24/2 or B24/15
C1025 CAN signals ABS not avail.

Did you have any of these codes stored in the original ESP Module?

Maj. Dundee

With the eng. running, you must check your charging rate at the battery.

StarvingArtist

I shouldn't have started a new thread, now I'm just confused.

Battery is running 14+ with headlights and seat heaters on. 12+ cold.

After switching the fuel pump relay, it ran good today but that doesn't mean anything yet, sometimes it will run good several days in a row.

I think I answered your codes question in the other thread. Some overlap from before. I showed which ones.

Thanks!
Russ

Maj. Dundee

In my post #29 I specifically asked the following question:

Did you have any of these codes stored in the original ESP Module?

StarvingArtist

As far as I know, these are the only codes from the original ESP module:

BAS c1000 control module N48 N47-5 ESP
ESP c1000 control module -046

I got these from my previous post. I would have to put the old module back in to confirm, but that should be accurate.

Maj. Dundee

Then do so and if that is the only code in the old module, then that would mean that the new module is faulty.

Also note that code C1025 and C1000 calls for replacement of the module.

StarvingArtist

Ok thanks. I'll try that tomorrow.
If the new module was bad wouldn't I get the c1000 or c1025 codes with it too!

Maj. Dundee

Code C1000 in the old module indicates that that module is faulty.

When you install a new module the code C1000 from the old module cannot transfer to the new module unless it had the same exact problem.

The new module as its own problem, code C1025. Return it and get another.

StarvingArtist

I think I understand (finally} I didn't make the connection that the new one had the c1025 BAS code. I take it that ESP and BAS are all in the same module. I'll order another and send this one back.

Maj. Dundee

Yes all features are in one module.

StarvingArtist

The second esp module came yesterday. I only paid 20 bucks for this one. I figured it had as good a chance as any...WRONG. It had fewer codes in it, but one of them was C1000. Ordered one on the higher end of the price range last night. Try again next week.

StarvingArtist

YYYaaaaay! The third one worked. All the codes cleared. The fuel sensor and the door lock should be the only ones to come back. we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Maj. Dundee

Perseverance.

StarvingArtist

Yes, you just have to be more stubborn than the machinery.
Thank you so much for guiding me through this. I hope it's over.
If not, at least I'll have some meaningful codes to go by.
Russ

StarvingArtist

Well, it's not over yet. It is still running very bad on occasion. I'll scan it today and post up. We'll see if the ECU has any useful information.

StarvingArtist

P0300 B misfiring damages TWC
P0304 B misfiring damage TWC cyl. 4
P0303 B misfiring damages TWC cyl 3
P0302 B misfiring damages TWC cyl 2
P0300 A misfiring
P0304 A misfiring cyl 4
P0303 A misfiring cyl 3
P0302 A misfiring cyl 2

These are the current codes, any ideas? I put in new plugs already and bought a set of used coils and wires. I've tested all the wires with an ohm meter and swapped coils around. I find it hard to believe three of them are bad. it runs great most of the time.

Maj. Dundee

When and how did these new codes appear? You must have done something to cause this. Please be specific.

StarvingArtist

These misfires have been going on for probably 6 weeks, maybe more. I've talked about it quite a bit on here. Most of the time it runs fine, when it acts up, It runs terrible. Sometimes you can shut it off, and it will reset and run better. It seems to be worse in really hot weather, which we are having plenty of, but it's not consistent enough to really link it to any specific conditions. I was the one driving it only once when it happened, It felt like two dead cylinders.

The last bad ESP module seemed to make it run far worse, so I was hoping it was related. Right now it's running good most of the time, just like the original ESP. The codes will clear, and every single cylinder has been affected at one time or another, that is why I don't think it's ignition related. I was thinking fuel starvation from a bad pump or clogged filter, but it revs out with power most of the time. That's what made me think fuel pump relay, I thought a bad connection would cause intermittent low voltage to the pump. No cure there either.

The SAS reset, but the code for it is back, I'm guessing it's worn out and needs to be replaced, but i can't believe it would cause all these random misfires.

I'd like to know where the coils get their power supply, maybe there's a bad relay feeding all of them. I'm still just guessing. I was hoping for better more experienced guesses before I start throwing parts at it.

Any and all help will be appreciated!

Maj. Dundee

The ESP module or the codes have nothing to do with the misfire codes.

Misfire codes and CEL light will be reset when. the eng. is turned off and then the new cycle starts all over again.

It's either there is a large vacuum leak or you have clogged or partially clogged catalytic converters.

StarvingArtist

I'll check for a vacuum leak, any likely suspects? Especially ones that wouldn't be obvious. Not sure what to do about the cats, I guess some aftermarket solution exists since MB would want more than the car is worth.

I did check the tail pipe by putting my hand in front of it and it seemed to flow freely both at idle and revved. Not exactly diagnostic gold standard I know, but FWIW.

Thank you for confirming that the ESP is not part of this.

Maj. Dundee

You must remove the air intake pipe to properly check all the vacuum hoses.

It could be any one.

StarvingArtist

Thank you! I started checking things this evening. Both of the little vacuum cans in front are good. The brake booster is next on my list. I just remembered, the idle seems too low. Sometimes at a stoplight in drive it will go so low that it almost dies then surges up a little over and over. Don't know if that is relevant, but I bet it is. Vacuum leak usually causes fast idle, plugged exhaust would slow it down... by my reasoning any way.