Completely baffled! brake caliper is sticking, but it's not the caliper.




First thing I did was new oem pads and rotors. They drove the car and within 40 minutes the passenger side front was overheating and they could smell it. Had to tow it home. Since then I've had the caliper apart twice and replaced the rubber brake line. The problem is definitely somewhere upstream.
I have star, but I'm not very good with it. The only code I found that might be relevant was something about the steering angle sensor not initializing. Maybe the ABS is confused? I would expect something on the dash if that were true.
If you guys have any insight it would be much appreciated!
320,000 miles
4JGAB54E9XA141456




I did find something about the brake control module with star. I've got it written down somewhere, I'll post it later. I haven't figured out how to clear old codes, so I never know what is relevant.
I did find something about the brake control module with star. I've got it written down somewhere, I'll post it later. I haven't figured out how to clear old codes, so I never know what is relevant.
Post the code numbers.
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The car is currently driveable, that side is still dragging a bit, but not overheating.
I'll get some help with the star and try again tonight.
Thanks
Russ
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N47-5 ESP
ESP C1000 control module
-046
The codes won't clear in these two, and the steering angle sensor won't initialize. The good news is that it's driveable now, maybe the caliper was just sticky. It's still running hotter than the other one though, and it really shouldn't. It is smooth and perfect on the bench.




It also said something about voltage supply to the control module in the list of possible causes.
Where is the stinkin thing, I'll wiggle the connections and check the fuses.
If I do need one, I hope it's plug and play.
I just found a pile of them on ebay. Not unreasonable prices either.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; Aug 15, 2017 at 07:23 AM.
It also said something about voltage supply to the control module in the list of possible causes.
Where is the stinkin thing, I'll wiggle the connections and check the fuses.
If I do need one, I hope it's plug and play.
I just found a pile of them on ebay. Not unreasonable prices either.
It is plug and play if you buy a used one.
Do a search on ebay using the part # from your present module?
After installation, codes must be cleared.




Any thoughts on the steering angle sensor? I'm surprised the traction control could even work without that. The dash would go nuts in my CLS.
Reset the SAS by centering the steering wheel, then turn all the way to one side and then the other, and then center the wheel.




I appreciate your help on this.
Thank you!
Russ
Last edited by StarvingArtist; Aug 17, 2017 at 06:25 AM.












What worries me now is with a working ESP module I have a bunch of new codes that won't clear. At least one of them is the conductor plate in the tranny, which makes sense because it acts up once in a while.
I've got RPM sensor -016 L6/4 Brake fluid indicator switch s11
Then here's the ones that worry me. Voltage supply circuit 87 overvoltage voltage supply solenoid valves A7/3
fault in CAN communication w/ ME N3/10
There is also one about the fuel level sensor 0460 I think, and the gas gauge hasn't worked well since I got the car 70K ago. Some door lock faults too, but none of that is priority right now.
I'm wondering if that overvoltage is what fried the ESP module in the firs place?
Any insight would be much appreciated! I'm in over my head on this one.
Open the brake fluid cover & press the floater in/out a few times. Fit it back.
Take the car for a spin & scan it again. Clear the codes. Go into each module individually & clear them. Then scan again. Post the codes.
Then you also need a rear right speed sensor if the code persists.
Overvoltage code could be from the previous ESP module & same goes about the CAN.




Open the brake fluid cover & press the floater in/out a few times. Fit it back.
Take the car for a spin & scan it again. Clear the codes. Go into each module individually & clear them. Then scan again. Post the codes.
Then you also need a rear right speed sensor if the code persists.
Overvoltage code could be from the previous ESP module & same goes about the CAN.
I hope you're right about the esp and CAN. I'll try to clear them again. I wasn't running the STAR so I'm not sure what method was used to try to clear them.
The brake fluid sensor and fuel sender are way down on the list right now. ESP probably can't work without the wheel speed sensor.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; Sep 1, 2017 at 07:10 PM.




I've also cleared up the misfires with plugs and a couple coils. Unfortunately the new used ESP control module is throwing lots of codes and the won't clear. I don't know if it's the module, or it's got half a dozen problems. I guess I'll start a new thread when I get a chance to fight this battle again. Currently runs and drives fine.
Thanks for the help guys!
Russ




N47-5 ESP
ESP C1000 control module
-046
The codes won't clear in these two, and the steering angle sensor won't initialize. The good news is that it's driveable now, maybe the caliper was just sticky. It's still running hotter than the other one though, and it really shouldn't. It is smooth and perfect on the bench.
The running terrible sometimes didn't go away. That is top priority right now. It didn't show any misfiring cylinders this time. I'm thinking fuel pump or relay. I'm going to try to find the relay this morning. I read that the 046 codes are lean misfire, even though they come up with the fuel level sensor. It's a 1999 ML320 with the updated filter.
My theory is that if the fuel system was clogged, it wouldn't rev out and run fine when it's running fine. Does that make sense?
I'll do a search to find the relay, but if you happen to know where it is...
Thanks
Russ


