StarvingArtist

I'm trying to loan my 99 ml320 to a family that needs a car right now, but the right front brake is overheating. I think it's been going on for a while because one pad on that side got down to metal before I knew any thing was wrong.

First thing I did was new oem pads and rotors. They drove the car and within 40 minutes the passenger side front was overheating and they could smell it. Had to tow it home. Since then I've had the caliper apart twice and replaced the rubber brake line. The problem is definitely somewhere upstream.

I have star, but I'm not very good with it. The only code I found that might be relevant was something about the steering angle sensor not initializing. Maybe the ABS is confused? I would expect something on the dash if that were true.

If you guys have any insight it would be much appreciated!

320,000 miles
4JGAB54E9XA141456

Maj. Dundee

The caliper piston is not retracting after brake application.

Replace the caliper.

StarvingArtist

I wish it was that simple. I've had the caliper apart twice. I've even sanded and repolished the piston,(some kind of weird brown material over aluminium) Everything is clean and smooth and perfect. No sticking.

I did find something about the brake control module with star. I've got it written down somewhere, I'll post it later. I haven't figured out how to clear old codes, so I never know what is relevant.

StarvingArtist

It said: All Activity Module No CAN reception from ETS??

Maj. Dundee

Try to be a little more helpful. You mention codes but do not say what the codes are.

Post the code numbers.

StarvingArtist

I'll get star plugged back in this afternoon, and get more specific. Thanks!

Maj. Dundee

Make sure you read all modules.

StarvingArtist

I ran out of time. I cleared the history and the traction control and engine control wouldn't clear. then I did something wrong and the computer kept telling me it was busy with another program, then connection failed.

The car is currently driveable, that side is still dragging a bit, but not overheating.

I'll get some help with the star and try again tonight.

Thanks
Russ

StarvingArtist

BAS c1000 control module N48
N47-5 ESP

ESP C1000 control module
-046

The codes won't clear in these two, and the steering angle sensor won't initialize. The good news is that it's driveable now, maybe the caliper was just sticky. It's still running hotter than the other one though, and it really shouldn't. It is smooth and perfect on the bench.

art_arev

You need to look for a replacement ESP module. C1000 indicates that it is faulty.

StarvingArtist

Any chance it could be the steering angle sensor?
It also said something about voltage supply to the control module in the list of possible causes.

Where is the stinkin thing, I'll wiggle the connections and check the fuses.

If I do need one, I hope it's plug and play.

I just found a pile of them on ebay. Not unreasonable prices either.

Maj. Dundee

The ESP Module is located in the fuse/relay box. Pull it up and copy down the number 163 545 xx xx.

It is plug and play if you buy a used one.

Do a search on ebay using the part # from your present module?

After installation, codes must be cleared.

StarvingArtist

Awesome! Thanks!

Any thoughts on the steering angle sensor? I'm surprised the traction control could even work without that. The dash would go nuts in my CLS.

Maj. Dundee

Your problem has nothing to do with the Steering Angle Sensor.

Reset the SAS by centering the steering wheel, then turn all the way to one side and then the other, and then center the wheel.

StarvingArtist

I'll order that control module.

I appreciate your help on this.

Thank you!
Russ

StarvingArtist

Control module should be here any day. I did a dry run to see what it would take to swap. I hate to admit it, but I couldn't unplug the wires. Apparently the ebay seller had the same problem, because they just clipped all the wires. Anyone know how the things release? I could change this in minutes if I could unplug it without breaking something.

Maj. Dundee

Take a close up picture of the connectors and I will explain.

StarvingArtist

Will do, thanks.
Turns out I should have paid more attention to the shipping. It's going to be here in a week.

StarvingArtist

Ok, got the control module. the wire connectors were easy enough once I got a good look at it. I've been chasing bad misfires that come and go for a couple weeks now, I'm starting to think it's not an ignition problem, but I still have a couple coils to change before I know that.

What worries me now is with a working ESP module I have a bunch of new codes that won't clear. At least one of them is the conductor plate in the tranny, which makes sense because it acts up once in a while.

I've got RPM sensor -016 L6/4 Brake fluid indicator switch s11

Then here's the ones that worry me. Voltage supply circuit 87 overvoltage voltage supply solenoid valves A7/3

fault in CAN communication w/ ME N3/10

There is also one about the fuel level sensor 0460 I think, and the gas gauge hasn't worked well since I got the car 70K ago. Some door lock faults too, but none of that is priority right now.

I'm wondering if that overvoltage is what fried the ESP module in the firs place?

Any insight would be much appreciated! I'm in over my head on this one.

art_arev

You already know you have a faulty conductor plate & fuel gauge, right?
Open the brake fluid cover & press the floater in/out a few times. Fit it back.
Take the car for a spin & scan it again. Clear the codes. Go into each module individually & clear them. Then scan again. Post the codes.
Then you also need a rear right speed sensor if the code persists.
Overvoltage code could be from the previous ESP module & same goes about the CAN.

StarvingArtist

Hey, thanks for the response. The conductor plate is high on the list, but the misfires are top priority right now. It acted up again today, so i'll figure out which cylinders are out.

I hope you're right about the esp and CAN. I'll try to clear them again. I wasn't running the STAR so I'm not sure what method was used to try to clear them.

The brake fluid sensor and fuel sender are way down on the list right now. ESP probably can't work without the wheel speed sensor.

StarvingArtist

Just for an update, The brake is no longer dragging. I'm not sure if it's the new control module, or if it just settled in and quit hassling me. Either way, I'll take the win.

I've also cleared up the misfires with plugs and a couple coils. Unfortunately the new used ESP control module is throwing lots of codes and the won't clear. I don't know if it's the module, or it's got half a dozen problems. I guess I'll start a new thread when I get a chance to fight this battle again. Currently runs and drives fine.

Thanks for the help guys!
Russ

Maj. Dundee

Artist, please UPDATE YOU PROFILE in USER CP to include the year of your ML.

Maj. Dundee

Did you have any ESP codes prior to changing the module?

StarvingArtist

I think this was all of it. I thought maybe a working module allowed me to access the rest.

The running terrible sometimes didn't go away. That is top priority right now. It didn't show any misfiring cylinders this time. I'm thinking fuel pump or relay. I'm going to try to find the relay this morning. I read that the 046 codes are lean misfire, even though they come up with the fuel level sensor. It's a 1999 ML320 with the updated filter.
My theory is that if the fuel system was clogged, it wouldn't rev out and run fine when it's running fine. Does that make sense?
I'll do a search to find the relay, but if you happen to know where it is...

Thanks
Russ